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FlyFishinRVr · 01-20-2018, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tronadora

Let me process that... so the refer runs off 12v when 110v is not available... are there two power cords feeding into the refer? Or does the transfer switch receive 12v and 110v and deliver power down one power cord? Does the freezer share the same power cord with the refer? I know my transfer switch is just behind the water heater under the sofa.

You have a 2015 AI. Isn't that an AC absorption model (i.e. it runs off AC or propane)? My '17 is all-electric compressor style so it's a bit different. If you have the make/model I can look it up and adjust my suggestion accordingly.....

Tronadora · 01-20-2018, 05:39 PM

Unfortunately, it's an all electric setup. Sniffle.

FlyFishinRVr · 01-20-2018, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tronadora

Unfortunately, it's an all electric setup. Sniffle.

All electric is good! Absorption style refers are a PITA because they have to be perfectly level (or very near perfect) in order to function at peak efficiency. I just wasn't aware the '15's came with all-electric fridges. What's the make/model?

amirm · 01-20-2018, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tronadora

Thanks. So in order to save the house batteries, I'd need to tie into the 12v line and not the 110v line. I was looking at the Yeti Goal Zero lineup and they are the same specs for 12V output... 10A limit, 120W max. Is that sufficient? If so, one might think of rigging one of the outputs to the fridge and one to the freezer... but I don't know if that would exceed the total output of the Yeti. Specs attached.

From what I recall, the fridge and freezer each use about 5 amps so based on that, it should work.

Tronadora · 01-20-2018, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amirm

Power goes to the fridge/freezer through both AC and DC. The fridge does the switching internally. There is no external switch.

Fridge has separate AC cord than freezer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlyFishinRVr

All electric is good! Absorption style refers are a PITA because they have to be perfectly level (or very near perfect) in order to function at peak efficiency. I just wasn't aware the '15's came with all-electric fridges. What's the make/model?

I assume you mean make and model of fridge but I don't have access to the rig (at the dealer) or the documents (inside the rig). Pic attached, if that helps. Sorry for the rotation... it opens fine on my computer...

FlyFishinRVr · 01-21-2018, 12:08 AM

Yes make/model of fridge so I can see what the specs are (AC and DC input limits, etc).

If yours is what comes standard on the ‘15, I’ll see if AS has that info online.

Tronadora · 01-21-2018, 05:41 AM

Even though I'm the second owner, I'm sure it's standard issue. It's at the dealer and I won't have it back for a couple of weeks.

InterBlog · 01-21-2018, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tronadora

Unfortunately, it's an all electric setup. Sniffle.

Rather than sniffle, you might want to thank your lucky stars. I was an early proponent of propane fridges, but then real life taught me some painful and expensive lessons.

Here is a blog post describing how my husband and I went through three refrigerators in two years (the last one being mercifully all-electric and doing just fine).

Here is an epic Air Forums thread describing the sheer misery that the new Base Camp owners have been through with their propane fridges (which happen to be the identical model to what used to be installed in Interstates). Only part of the problem described was caused by Airstream's installation (IMO). The rest of it is due to the fridges themselves.

Electric fridges do present a power management challenge, but the alternatives to all-electric are much worse. And then when we finally get those challenges resolved, the struggle vanishes entirely (as in our case).

FlyFishinRVr · 01-21-2018, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tronadora

Even though I'm the second owner, I'm sure it's standard issue. It's at the dealer and I won't have it back for a couple of weeks.

According to the '15 parts book, you've got a Novakool 3.1 fridge and 3.1 freezer. They have AC/DC inputs so it gives you more options. You can use the AC transfer switch like I mentioned above and tie into the AC input on both the fridge and freezer, and put the switch between the coach transfer switch and fridge/freezer. Or, you can wire the lithium bank to the DC inputs, either through a switch if you want to be able to use the existing house batteries, or directly if you only want to use the lithium bank for these guys. Since the Novakool internally switches between AC or DC, and when both AC and DC are present will select AC, this might work well for your needs. When on shore power (or genset) it will use AC, and once you disconnect from shore power it will switch to DC (lithium or existing batts, depending on whether you put in a switch). The max current draw for either unit is 4.4A, so you should be fine with something like a Yeti 1000 with a 10A max output on DC.

I hope that helps.