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Old 12-27-2017, 04:33 PM   #1
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1992 29' Excella
2010 22' Interstate
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Side Window Installation - 2010 Interstate

We recently purchased a used 2010 Interstate. We've used the van a few times and noticed water leaks during rain. The rain was unusually heavy with quite a bit of wind. The drips of water were seen on the sliding door and the bedroom area. Both on the passenger side but I think the driver side could leak too if the conditions were just right (wrong).

Upon investigating we realize the windows don't seem to be located properly on/in the Sprinter body panels. The fact that the windows are "low" in their respective panels means the moveable windows (at the bottom) don't close completely. If the windows aren't closed and sealed the water can get in.

So my question is this...

Can a competent person (perhaps me with some help) remove the interior trim, remove the window completely and reinstall the window at the correct height? What's involved? Is the window installed with caulk/sealant? Double-sided tape?

Is it possible Airstream cut the body panels incorrectly and the windows can't be moved at this point?

As a side note, the windows clearly say Atwood. However, when I spoke to a former Atwood employee who indicates she is very familiar with the (then) Atwood window line she indicated Atwood never made such a window for Class B motorhomes.

I'll include more details and pictures in the next post.
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:40 PM   #2
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A side note...

I started my searching looking for Atwood windows (see picture in next post). Atwood indicated they sold their "side window" product line to Duncan Systems which is part of Lippert Components. Duncan/Lippert says yes they did buy the product line but never made any windows like this for the Sprinter van. They do make RV side windows and they may look similar but not these particular windows.

I looked at the knobs used to open and close the movable portion of the window. The plastic knobs are clearly marked "Creation" but that company apparently went out of business completely.

Back to Duncan/Lippert... they referred me to CR Laurence but CRL says they have never made a window such as this although they do make windows for the Sprinter and apparently sell to Airstream.

So I'm back to my original questions... can a competent person remove these windows and reinstall them and make the movable portion open & close properly.

Yes, those pictures are coming...
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1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:44 PM   #3
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Here are the pictures:

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The glass clearly indicates Atwood

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A couple pictures showing the open/close knob and how the window appears from the inside

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Looks pretty typical for an NCV3 body style

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In this picture it's obvious the rear (bedroom) window on the left is not aligned with the fixed window that is behind the shower/bathroom

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Lower rear corner of passenger side bedroom window. Notice the radius of the glass is not concentric with the radius of the Sprinter sheet metal.

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The top rear corner of the window clearly shows the radius of the glass in not concentric with the sheet metal.

The overall problem seems to stem from the window being situated low in the sheet metal of the Sprinter. The lower edge of the windows (the movable part of the glass) rubs on the sheet metal and doesn't allow the window to close.
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
As a side note, the windows clearly say Atwood. However, when I spoke to a former Atwood employee who indicates she is very familiar with the (then) Atwood window line she indicated Atwood never made such a window for Class B motorhomes.
Atwood's line of B-van windows was bought out by CR Laurence. My 2012 Interstate (built in 2011) has CR Laurence windows.

I seem to recall that there was an Interstate owner here on the Forums who broke out a rear quarter window (don't know if it was the same window, or if it was the same van). The owner had a most difficult time finding replacement windows, because CR Laurence in turn was bought out by US Aluminum.
http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/sh...89:16124&pom=0
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:49 PM   #5
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Look like a newer rear 3 piece CR Lawrence would fit, with different rollers lift arm arrangement. Due to its size and weight I would just farm out the job. I believe the whole assembly is about $695. I’m looking up the part number for you next.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Look like a newer rear 3 piece CR Lawrence would fit, with different rollers lift arm arrangement. Due to its size and weight I would just farm out the job. I believe the whole assembly is about $695. I’m looking up the part number for you next.


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Plus labor. I had a flying debris incident that took out the smaller tip out window and it was a PITA to fit due to many intricate parts that made up the whole assembly. If indeed the opening was miss cut, it’s easy to fix with the whole thing out. I think I could do it with some help.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:25 PM   #7
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Side Window Installation - 2010 Interstate

Hello, I also experienced leakage on my passenger side bedroom window. I pulled the entire unit off, cleaned the channels, sealed with silicone, and replaced the window. I did this all in my driveway, so it is not too difficult. I have not read anywhere that one should use silicone to seal these windows, but upon inspecting the window system and the rubber channel seals used, I was not impressed. Also, I no longer have leaks, and we have been through some torrential rain storms since I sealed it up.
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:44 AM   #8
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I watched JC do a R&R on the window in our sliding door. The interior trim ring is attached to the main part of the window frame with sheet metal screws in 8 or so places around the perimeter. It was easy to do since the screw heads were all easily accessible - after removing the lower track of the curtain. It would be much more difficult on other windows that have the mouse hair paneling around the inside of the window frame. I think that you would have to remove the mouse hair panels to get at the screw heads on the other windows.
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bcamper View Post
Hello, I also experienced leakage on my passenger side bedroom window. I pulled the entire unit off, cleaned the channels, sealed with silicone, and replaced the window. I did this all in my driveway, so it is not too difficult. I have not read anywhere that one should use silicone to seal these windows, but upon inspecting the window system and the rubber channel seals used, I was not impressed. Also, I no longer have leaks, and we have been through some torrential rain storms since I sealed it up.
Thanks for the comments. Your avatar indicates you have a 2009 Interstate. A few more questions for you...

1) Does your Interstate have "Atwood" windows or some other brand? Do your knobs say "Creation?"

2) It appears the trim on the inside with the dozen (maybe two dozen) screws is what secures the window in the body of the Sprinter. Is that correct?

3) Do you recall if the opening in the Sprinter body was slightly larger than the window frame? If so, that will allow me to reinstall my windows slightly higher so the movable windows will operate correctly.

4) Finally, not a question, please post any pictures if you have some.

Thanks.
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1992 29' Excella Classic / 2010 Interstate
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Old 12-28-2017, 08:05 AM   #10
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On my 2012/13 the screws do not go into the van body. They go though the inside trim piece and into the main part of the window frame that sits on the outside. The screws clamp the inner and outer parts of the window together with the van panel in between. I think we had a fairly tight fit between outside of window and inside of the hole. After removing the screws and inside trim piece you need somebody on the outside to catch the window as you push it out from the inside. Titus is in storage so I cannot tell you the brand of window.
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Old 01-18-2018, 01:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
Thanks for the comments. Your avatar indicates you have a 2009 Interstate. A few more questions for you...

1) Does your Interstate have "Atwood" windows or some other brand? Do your knobs say "Creation?"

2) It appears the trim on the inside with the dozen (maybe two dozen) screws is what secures the window in the body of the Sprinter. Is that correct?

3) Do you recall if the opening in the Sprinter body was slightly larger than the window frame? If so, that will allow me to reinstall my windows slightly higher so the movable windows will operate correctly.

4) Finally, not a question, please post any pictures if you have some.

Thanks.


Sorry for the long delay; it has been so miserably cold here, I have avoided outdoor time as much as possible. Here are my windows. They are not Atwood. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-18-2018, 01:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
Thanks for the comments. Your avatar indicates you have a 2009 Interstate. A few more questions for you...

1) Does your Interstate have "Atwood" windows or some other brand? Do your knobs say "Creation?"

2) It appears the trim on the inside with the dozen (maybe two dozen) screws is what secures the window in the body of the Sprinter. Is that correct?

3) Do you recall if the opening in the Sprinter body was slightly larger than the window frame? If so, that will allow me to reinstall my windows slightly higher so the movable windows will operate correctly.

4) Finally, not a question, please post any pictures if you have some.

Thanks.


The windows and knobs are "Creation".

Yes, the screws are what secure the window system. (Removing and replacing the blinds was MUCH more difficult than removing the window system).

The opening in the Sprinter body is larger than the window support frame. I tried to mount mine a little higher, but that didn't happen.

I was thoroughly unimpressed with the stock rubber gaskets as a sealing system. I used silicone sealant and it works great. I have not read anywhere that you should or should not use silicone, but it is working fine for me. I both re-installed the factory rubber gasket, and used silicone.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:01 PM   #13
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A few months have passed and we've had a couple small leaks from time to time when the rain is heavy with lots of wind.

I will attempt a repair (removal, re-caulk, re-intall) in the next few weeks. I have a very capable friend who works well with me and we plan to do the job when he's in town. I'll take pictures before, during and after in an attempt to document the process.

I contacted Airstream and they recommend black Adseal caulk to seal the windows to the Sprinter sheet metal. I've ordered 4 tubes of caulk (one for each window) and hope that's sufficient. I suspect it will be more than enough. Airstream doesn't have a work instruction/assembly instruction for the process - at least not one they are willing to share.

The local Airstream dealer said it would be okay to stop by and pick the brain of their technician before I tackle the job. If they haven't done this particular project maybe they have done something similar and can give me some tips.

I'll reply again when I have more information.
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Old 07-18-2018, 11:39 PM   #14
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I have had the passenger side sliding door window replaced twice (once incorrectly by a dealer, the second time by Jackson Center because Airstream sent the wrong D-channel to the dealer.

And learning by watching I replaced both the rear streetside and front street side windows. It's not that hard.

First of all, you may just try to tighten the screws holding the window in place. That worked for one of my windows.

But likely, the D-Channel has dried out or was not installed correctly to begin with.

I can't say for sure, but if it is like my 2011 they used rubber D-Channel and I would not use anything other than D-Channel because if it leaks and you have to remove it, you will have a good chance you will damage the glass in the process if you use the same stuff they use to seal windshields. There is no way to remove it like you can with a windshield, so that could be some very bad advice (and definitely is, if they used D-Channel like they did in the 2011 model and up to the current models).

Presuming the 2010 uses the same type of assembly as the 2011 (mine are labled CR Lawrence but appear similar) this is how you remove the window:

1. For the rear, you will need to remove the blinds and trim. The trim is easy, just remove the screws and pull it off. The flat trim that goes up to the window is fine and you don't have to remove that, just the box around the window.

2. The window is held in by screws with torx heads. Remove them, and have a helper outside hold the window in place. It won't likely fall out, better safe than sorry though. More likely, it will be quite stubborn and stuck in place, and you will need to gently push it around the edges and it will eventually give way. It's not heavy at all, in fact you will be surprised how light it is.

3. Remove the D-Channel and any left over adhesive with alcohol or goof off off the glass, and if using goof off, finish it up with alcohol until the surface is pristine. Clean the frame around the window as well.

3. Make sure you get some new D-Channel. I got mine from Colonial RV, who will be glad to send you about 22 feet for each window, if I recall that it takes. Measure the circumference to be sure. You can also obtain the D-Channel from other sources. D-Channel is pretty much D-Channel, but it needs to be the correct size,and that's why I ordered it from Colonial RV.

Carefully place the D-Channel on the window glass and make sure the adhesive is well fixed to the glass.(use a roller or something similar).

With a helper outside, place the window and center it in the frame. Inside, replace the screws, the trim and the shades.

For the streetside front window it was not necessary to remove the trim, which is not possible without removing the entire kitchen assembly, but I was able, with a bit of difficulty, able to remove all the screws without doing so because of the extra room behind the counter.

The rest is identical to the rear.

The slider is the easiest. Just remove the screws and remove the window. I don't think the trim is an issue. The flat trim up to the frame of the window should not be a problem is not required to be removed.

When you order the D-Channel, ask them to also send enough screws to replace the ones with the torx heads with phillips heads, and replace them with new screws. You will strip or damage many of the old screws when you remove them. They are aluminum and so you need to be very careful not to strip the heads when you remove them. They've been stuck there of 8 years, and some won't won't to let go.

Basically, the D-Channel dries out. On mine, which is stored outside, both the sun facing side started to leak after about 5 years. The curbside leaked from the factory because it had been improperly installed in production.

You will likely do a better job than any dealer.

Good luck.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:13 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmillerok1 View Post
I have had the passenger side sliding door window replaced twice (once incorrectly by a dealer, the second time by Jackson Center because Airstream sent the wrong D-channel to the dealer.



You will likely do a better job than any dealer.

Good luck.
Thanks, that's very useful information and is sure to be helpful when we start the project. Sounds like I need to order D-channel.

It sounds like the D-channel does the sealing. In general I like that - it makes the window removable at a later date. Based on your description I may be under the wrong impression about how the glass is sealed to the sheet metal. Airstream gave me the impression I was to use Adseal (caulk) to seal the window to the sheet metal. I'll have to do some additional investigating.

I'd like to go back a few steps to indicate why our windows leak. They are leaking because the moveable portion, the small windows that open & close, do not close completely because the overall window is not situated correctly in the van body. When the windows are "closed" there is still a small gap (you can slide a piece of paper between the window and gasket). The overall window frame sits about 1/8" too low in the sheet metal so the small windows don't close completely - they hit the sheet metal on the bottom lip. So my only reason for removing the window is to reposition the window frame within the van body.
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:05 AM   #16
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If that is your only reason, the you may be able to remove the window and simply replace it in the correct orientation. However, if you model is a 2010, if it were me, while I went to the trouble of removing it, I would replace the D-Channel because it will be permanently depressed, and could leak in another spot when the window is re-positioned.

I would confirm with Airstream that the 2010 model window uses D-channel. Ask them to check with production and confirm that-don't take customer service's word for it. They may not have a clue unless they confirm it with someone who actually built them in 2010.

If they used the some type of sealant, good luck. Since you can't get a blade to separate it from the frame as is done with a windshield, I see no way that the window could be removed easily without damage. The glass is not very strong and quite light on construction. There may be a way, but if so, I am not aware of how it would be done. You would need to ask Airstream for assistance in that regard if that's the case.

But my money is that the 2010 is installed exactly as the 2011.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:48 PM   #17
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If the window does not close correctly because of it not being centered in the opening, could you stick a thin piece of rubber gasket on top of the original gasket in order to close the gap? It would certainly be easier to try this first before reorientng the window.
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:50 AM   #18
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It took approximately 6 hours to remove and replace the windows. There are 6 "side" windows in our Interstate but we only worked on the 4 windows with the moveable glass - the galley, sliding door and 2 windows in the bedroom area.

Based on information contained in the responses from other forum members (thank you!) I ordered replacement gasket, replacement screws and Adseal caulk from Airstream. When we removed the windows we did see any evidence of caulk, consequently we did not use the Adseal. We only used the new gasket.

I'll make a few posts below describing some of the work we did. You'll have to imagine some of the details. By the way, two people could probably do this job - one inside and one outside. We had a few extra helpers on the outside doing QC as we went along to ensure we were actually repositioning the windows as intended.

After removing all the window treatments such as day/night blinds, valences, etc. we had clear access to the inside of the window frame. There were approximately 24 Torx drive screws securing the window.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:01 AM   #19
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From the outside we used two suction cups from Harbor Freight to assist with removal. The windows did not come out easily at first. We had to push and bump the frame from the inside to begin releasing the gasket from the sheet metal.

Notice the indention the window frame made against the blackout material. You'd expect the window frame to be entirely concentric with the opening in the sheet metal. You can see from the indention that the frame corners don't follow the same radius as the opening in the sheet metal. All four corners of each window were this way. This is not a result of the window being mislocated in the opening. This is clearly a case of the opening not matching the window frame. Without knowing more about this I'm going to attribute this to an issue at the Airstream factory/engineering. This is not a good design - it means each corner of the window has less gasket surface touching the sheet metal. On the other hand, the design of the window frame may be sub-par. The window manufacturer may not have taken time to really understand the detailed dimensions of the Sprinter chassis/body and therefore miscalculated the radii of the window versus the body dimensions.
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:06 AM   #20
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As mentioned by another forum member in an earlier post the old gasket must be removed and the new gasket installed on the window frame. The old gasket was removed by slowly peeling it off the window frame. There were portions of adhesive and gasket remaining around the perimeter of the window frame so we used adhesive remover to get most of it off, then cleaned with alcohol prior to affixing the new gasket.

Based on the issue we noted in the corners of the window (previous post) we affixed the gasket along the outside edge of the gasket area hoping to achieve good gasket compression.
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