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Old 03-20-2018, 07:22 PM   #1
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2017 Interstate Lounge Ext
Plano , Texas
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Shore Power - 20amp GFI - Home

First off, I am not a fan of the search on this forum... love all the content... hate the search results.

I know I read something about plugging in the RV to home shore power through a GFI protected outlet. Can't find it.

Long term plan is to add a 30amp outlet but for right now it is connected via a 20amp GFI protected outlet. I got my first box of Amazon goodies (thanks Wachuko for all the amazon links) and got my first Power Grip adapter in the box. Couldn't find the thread about GFI but it looks like everything is working. I have it plugged in (getting the little light on both sections of the power cable). Inside I adjusted the RV to 20amps... my Battery status is now showing Float.

Something I am missing about the GFI? I know I can't run AC with 20amps but everything else seems to be working..

Thanks,

Tobbun
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:10 PM   #2
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Are you able to plug directly into the outlet (with only an adapter)? My closest 110 outlet is far from my service box so I had no excess amps to spare and I suppose your GFI has to be quite sensitive to do it's job.

Until I was able to plug into the outlet directly, I could not run the A/C from the house outlet that was not GFI protected. My A/C tripped a house breaker when I was using a short 12ga outlet box with a 4 ft. cord between the 30 amp power cord adapter and home outlet. It now runs the A/C fine with a direct connection.
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
Are you able to plug directly into the outlet (with only an adapter)? My closest 110 outlet is far from my service box so I had no excess amps to spare and I suppose your GFI has to be quite sensitive to do it's job.

Until I was able to plug into the outlet directly, I could not run the A/C from the house outlet that was not GFI protected. My A/C tripped a house breaker when I was using a short 12ga outlet box with a 4 ft. cord between the 30 amp power cord adapter and home outlet. It now runs the A/C fine with a direct connection.
No - It is an outlet I had installed for X-Mas lights. I am running an extension cord from it to the adapter to the AI Power Cable. This is short term solution until I can get a 30amp solution closer to the AI. I have power going right by the AI today for the Gazebo lights but that is also only 20amp. Figure I can add the 30amp connector via new cable from a new breaker next to the AI.
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:07 PM   #4
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2012 Avenue Coach
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30 amp service is the way to go. I'm just glad I don't have to add it since my service panel is on the complete opposite side from where I park my RV.
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:44 PM   #5
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2006 22' Interstate
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We’ve had some success running our A/C on a 20A outlet but it trips the breaker if the battery was low and the charger was also on.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:28 AM   #6
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2016 27' International
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We keep our 27' Serenity connected to a house 20amp GFCI protected outlet in the shop using the shore power cable without problems. I keep a small electrical heater on inside the AS during the colder winter times, and use shop equipment like table saw or planer or routers with an occasional breaker trip-not often though.

About a year ago I purchased/installed the EasyStart package in the roof mounted A/C unit, and can use the A/C without a problem, though really not needed off-season while at home. Basically, the EasyStart manages the compressor start electrical spike, allowing the A/C to run once started. Many have installed this device.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:33 AM   #7
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I also am using a 20 amp circuit from the pool box. I hook the 30amp cord to a dog bone and plug in. So far no problems, but the batteries are always fully charged and I don't run anything else.
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:55 AM   #8
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GFI 20amp issues

I have had quite a bit of experience using 120v 20a electric for both my 30a campers and 20a refrigeration equipment.
It sounds like you are using both a residential (likely 15a) GFI and a GFI current protector device. IMHO I would recommend changing out the GFI receptacle to a commercial grade 20a. I GFI is code or you really want it, replace the breaker with a GFI breaker. Your Airstream AC unit will over amp a cheap GFI receptacle, the tiny bits of metal inside will not take 10-13 amps continuous load, eg trips, the GFI breaker is more likely to survive. Now, cumulatively even a 30a supply will be marginal if you run, AC, water heater and refrig. Toasters and hairdryer's will trip.Good Luck.
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobbun View Post
First off, I am not a fan of the search on this forum... love all the content... hate the search results.



Thanks,

Tobbun
2017 AI TB Lounge
I also loathe the search feature. Someone posted this not too long ago that has helped my searching in Google or other search engines:

surge protector site:airforums.com
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Old 03-21-2018, 11:04 AM   #10
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Dixon , California
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50amp

Why not just install a 50amp as I did. That way at home I can test full functionality of my 2017 classic. Since going to the trouble of installing a 30 amp!
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:31 PM   #11
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At home our shore power is from a 20A GFCI in the garage. Long ago I read on this forum that you can't run GCFI's in series - that you have to trip the GFCI in the Interstate before plugging into shore power then reset it after plugged in. I did it this was the first few times. Then forgot one time and it worked fine - neither GFCI breaker tripped.

We have blown the garage GFCI circuit after running the AC for a while. Didn't really understand why, since can run the AC with the 20A generator. Far as I am aware there was nothing else plugged into the garage GFCI circuit that we were plugged in to.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:53 PM   #12
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Am with Titus and AndyT.

The technical answer to the GFCI question might depend on what the trailer has in it. Some trailers (possibly all / most) have a GFCI breaker in the panel and IIRC, having two GFCI's in the same circuit is not optimal. So, by connecting the umbilical cord to a GFCI when there is a GFCI in the trailer's breaker panel, it will effectively put two GFCI's in the same circuit. Will need an electrician to chime-in for verification as to whether this is an issue or not.


For upgrading the existing 20 Amp outlet, rather than a 30 Amp outlet, consider installing a 50 Amp outlet if there is any occasional need for a generator. If so, then a generator capable of 240 Volts can power your whole house via just the one plug. Naturally, you will need to limit the power consumption to the generator's capability
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Old 03-21-2018, 01:14 PM   #13
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Uh, please DON’T backfeed a receptacle of any sort with a generator. It’s against code and hazardous to the max on many levels. If you anticipate the need for emergency power install a proper transfer switch. Jury-rigging a generator is a great way to cause a fire or electrocute someone.

When it comes to electrical stuff, do it right, or for everyone’s safety, don’t do it.
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Old 03-21-2018, 01:29 PM   #14
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Well that makes sense...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT View Post
Why not just install a 50amp as I did. That way at home I can test full functionality of my 2017 classic. Since going to the trouble of installing a 30 amp!
Sounds like a better idea to me. Calling the electrician today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wareaglewalt View Post
I also loathe the search feature. Someone posted this not too long ago that has helped my searching in Google or other search engines:

surge protector site:airforums.com
It is always Bing for me... But will give that a try for the next search.
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