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Old 09-30-2016, 05:22 PM   #1
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Service Intervals

I have a 2015 AI, with a Sprinter Van build date 0f 9/14. I'm confused about the service intervals... Is it 10K, 15K or 20k? I currently have 7,000 miles on it, and dash light is on indicated service is overdue.. Is service predicated on miles and or time lapse??? i.e. 1 year etc.. Also what service facility, MB Sprinter dealer, Freightliner, Peterbilt, or any of 3.. Freightliner quoted me a price of $325 for "A" service..
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:42 PM   #2
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Doesn't the Owner's Manual list the service intervals any more?
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:43 PM   #3
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If this is your very first oil service in two years you're really pushing the envelope. The maintenance schedule for any Sprinter van is based on daily usage; since you're hardly using your van, you can't go by mileage alone. You need to be changing your engine oil before the van goes into storage or long periods of disuse.

If I were you I would be servicing the oil at least once a year or every 5,000 miles, (fluids are cheap, turbos are not) especially if doing short trips or long periods of non use; lubricate brake sliders at least once a year, flush brake fluid every 2 years; change coolant every 5 years, new thermostat very 5 years as well, all REGARDLESS of mileage. Change transmission fluid at least every 50,000 miles,

If you can get your Interstate undercoated with a good wax based rustproofing (Krown), all the better as it saves brake and gas lines, sending units, and helps electrical system connections from corrosion.

Take the van into Mercedes Benz or Frieghtliner. If that's going to be a hassle, buy the filters and such from the dealer and take to your own mechanic or learn to do the work yourself.

Cheers
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:51 PM   #4
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$130 for the oil alone is not cheap in my book. It takes over three gallons of synthetic. Then you have filter and labor. Easily runs $200-$300 depending on where you take it. If you are a DIYer, it's probably one of the easiest vehicles to change the oil and filter on.

I don't recall the maintenance manual specifying anything but mileage intervals for Service A & B. But can't check it any more.
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Old 09-30-2016, 09:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73shark View Post
$130 for the oil alone is not cheap in my book.
My boss bought his wife a 2010 VW Jetta TDI and against my suggestion, stuck to VW's 15,000km service intervals. At 200,000 kms the turbo shaft, spinning at 120,000 rpms, finally broke from contaminated oil eating through the hardened steel turbo shaft, causing both turbines to hit their respective casings and self destruct. The oil which was supposed to lubricate the turbo shaft was now able to bypass it and entered the exhaust system, destroying the catalytic converter and particulate filters. The repair bill was over $7,000 Canadian, for just the parts.

I'm thinking that Merc's parts are not cheaper than VW's.

Also these engines have timing chains which rely heavily on clean engine oil for lubrication. Dirty or contaminated oil will wear the chain down causing it to stretch and wear down timing chain guides. To replace the timing chain and guides in my Nissan 3.5 is over $2,000.00.

Trust me, fluids are cheap.

Cheers
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:36 AM   #6
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Thanks Tony, I just order an entire oil change kit from, Sprinter Parts depot, including Mobil 1 5-30 oil, filter, gasket for filter, new plug for pan, new cabin air filter, and engine air filter, all OEM, for 187.00 I will do it my self. thanks Again
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:57 AM   #7
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Glad I could help and happy you're doing the work yourself. If you need help, you tube is your best friend for everything.

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Old 10-02-2016, 05:21 AM   #8
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The vid above is good, but it's for a T1N - not sure what differences would exist for the NCV3.

The vid-maker could have spent more time on the O-ring issue. He mentions them verbally and with caption but does not show any. There are three of them on the filter spire (for the T1N at least), and they can be tricky to spot. Very thin black O-rings covered with black oil. Easy to miss one of them. I have a pic of the filter apparatus in this post, but they aren't really visible there either.

DIY OIL CHANGE FOR THE AIRSTREAM INTERSTATE
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Old 10-02-2016, 12:07 PM   #9
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Thanks IB as always for those detailed blogs. I got a kick out of this picture:



That is what happens to my gloves all the time! I have thicker ones that won't do that but I almost always try to economize, only to have them tear that way.

Back to the topic, of late I have been using a pump to suck out the oil out of my generator and other engines. The generator is impossible to drain any other way (the bolt is near ground with no room to put anything under it that would hold all the oil). The suction method is far less hassle as you don't try to take the bolt off and such. Put the tube in, pull the pump a few times and let it work for 15 minutes.

This is the smaller version of the one I have: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...FUlNfgodTrUC2g



My son now uses it to change the oil in his VW Diesel engine. You fish a tube down the dip stick and it does all the work. Other than the filter change, there is nothing messy.

Any reason to not do the same with the Sprinter?
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Old 10-02-2016, 04:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Thanks IB as always for those detailed blogs. I got a kick out of this picture...

That is what happens to my gloves all the time! ....
When my husband uses my Casabella Waterblock gloves (about $7 - $8 per pair), the same things happens every time! Aaaand I can never complain about it because it's always in the commission of some nasty job and I don't want to hear those words, "Well, then, YOU do it!"


We found that the oil drains so readily from the T1N that there's no assistance needed from any devices. Readily and thoroughly. When we put the new oil in, it was difficult to see where it was reading on the dipstick, even 500 miles later.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amirm View Post
Thanks IB as always for those detailed blogs. I got a kick out of this picture:



That is what happens to my gloves all the time! I have thicker ones that won't do that but I almost always try to economize, only to have them tear that way.

Back to the topic, of late I have been using a pump to suck out the oil out of my generator and other engines. The generator is impossible to drain any other way (the bolt is near ground with no room to put anything under it that would hold all the oil). The suction method is far less hassle as you don't try to take the bolt off and such. Put the tube in, pull the pump a few times and let it work for 15 minutes.

This is the smaller version of the one I have: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-m...FUlNfgodTrUC2g



My son now uses it to change the oil in his VW Diesel engine. You fish a tube down the dip stick and it does all the work. Other than the filter change, there is nothing messy.

Any reason to not do the same with the Sprinter?
I've been using a Harbor Freight oil extractor to change the oil on all my vehicles. It hooks up to a compressed air hose (maybe works by Venturi principle?). It doesn't eliminate all the mess (you still have to remove the filter which may be under the vehicle) but I have found it to be much easier and cleaner. There are numerous discussions on the net on the pros and cons of these devices. Since MB techs use oil extractors then I figure it's OK for Sprinters. The only caveat is to make sure you are careful when removing the extractor tube from the dipstick tube. There are stories of pieces of the plastic tubes breaking off and falling in the oil pan.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:36 PM   #12
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Personally the only thing I'd let them siphon/pump oil out of was my jetski. Just doesn't feel right not knowing where the end of the tube is and if it's going to get any sediment out.
I just let the front end or rear end hang out over the end of the driveway which allows plenty of clearance to pull either drain plug. Just have to be sure that the drain pan has the capacity for the three plus gallons of used oil.
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