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Old 06-03-2016, 09:47 AM   #85
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The DC Disconnect cable is 6 conductor and the instruction manual that came with it emphasis the coupler to be 6 conductor. You are correct on the temp sensor and remote being four conductor.

There are three telephone connectors that will fit in this size port, RJ-11, RJ-14 and RJ-25.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Registered_jack


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Old 06-03-2016, 09:51 AM   #86
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The control signal for the MM-DCLD is 12VDC/OPEN. Magnum is probably using one of the two, usually not present, outside conductors in the 6-conductor jacks/plugs. I found the 6-conductor splitter on Amazon for about $5.

I have to wonder why Airstream took the nuclear option of a relay that needs to conduct ALL of the current to the inverter as opposed to using the MM-DCLD to turn it on and off. Does anyone have any insight into that?

Lack of real engineering talent. A simple call to their supplier, Magnum Energy could have solved their problem of Inverter/Charger parasitic load. Magnum has had this DCLD device around for some time, it's not a new item.


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Old 06-03-2016, 01:22 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Mcrider View Post
The DC Disconnect cable is 6 conductor and the instruction manual that came with it emphasis the coupler to be 6 conductor. You are correct on the temp sensor and remote being four conductor.

Ahhhhh, the DCLD. I never use them as I always use a Blue Sea Systems M-Series disconnect switch in all of my inverter installations.

Ya learn something new every day!!!!


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Old 06-03-2016, 06:52 PM   #88
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Ahhhhh, the DCLD. I never use them as I always use a Blue Sea Systems M-Series disconnect switch in all of my inverter installations.
Yes your solution is best when you want a complete disconnect. In fact my two T24s on the bench have maintained over 13 volts for a week sitting on the bench. The DCLD is a good compromise when out and about, just hit the Main disconnect and and you are conserving. For long-term your solution is far more appropriate.

I'm studying the GBS Lithium really hard and the silicon heaters. Once I get a design I'm satisfied taking the risk on I'm in. My design criteria is the Batteries need to be under the coach. I do not want to give up space in the Coach. The 300 Watts solar and 320 AH will get a work-out 23 June - 12 July so I will report. I'll either be set or have 4 24Ts for sale
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:55 PM   #89
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I'm studying the GBS Lithium really hard and the silicon heaters. Once I get a design I'm satisfied taking the risk on I'm in. My design criteria is the Batteries need to be under the coach. I do not want to give up space in the Coach. The 300 Watts solar and 320 AH will get a work-out 23 June - 12 July so I will report. I'll either be set or have 4 24Ts for sale
Since you mentioned it, I'll start a thread this weekend to share the direction I'm headded.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:51 PM   #90
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Service Bulletin 164 - Battery Draw

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Since you mentioned it, I'll start a thread this weekend to share the direction I'm headded.

Great - looking forward to learn more about your project.


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Old 06-04-2016, 03:58 AM   #91
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Has anyone thought about installing a toggle switch on the DCLD easily accessible inside the cabin? There are lots of times the inverter may not be needed, but the 12v would. This would save .4 amps and still permit use of most things. The DCLD wiring schematic shows an ignition switch. This could be a toggle switch or even a separate breaker on the 12v panel.
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:24 AM   #92
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Has anyone thought about installing a toggle switch on the DCLD easily accessible inside the cabin? There are lots of times the inverter may not be needed, but the 12v would. This would save .4 amps and still permit use of most things. The DCLD wiring schematic shows an ignition switch. This could be a toggle switch or even a separate breaker on the 12v panel.


You don't need to. You can turn the inverter off from the Magnum remote without shutting down the 12 v system. The DCLD just avoids the mistake of leaving the inverter on when you mean to have the House in a minimum usage state.
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Old 06-04-2016, 10:38 AM   #93
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Has anyone thought about installing a toggle switch on the DCLD easily accessible inside the cabin? There are lots of times the inverter may not be needed, but the 12v would. This would save .4 amps and still permit use of most things. The DCLD wiring schematic shows an ignition switch. This could be a toggle switch or even a separate breaker on the 12v panel.

Jim - that's what I plan to do once I get my DCLD and make a few measurements to see if it will save enough to have it on its own switch. I have a total disconnect switch now and was planning to add a second switch to just provide other DC loads without powering the Inverter. The DCLD may be a simpler solution for what I have in mind.


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Old 06-05-2016, 02:51 AM   #94
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Mike,

Have you thought about what kind of switch and where to put it?

Jim
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:18 AM   #95
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Mike,

Have you thought about what kind of switch and where to put it?

Jim

It looks like the DCLD is a low current device so any simple toggle switch would work. The Magnum installation manual for the DCLD only requires a 5 amp fuse. I'll have to take some measurements once I get my DCLD. I'd like to mount it on the main control panel in the rear curbside overhead where I have all my other controls.


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Old 06-08-2016, 09:27 AM   #96
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Sorry to take this thread back to near the beginning, but I just had SB 164 done (before reading all the cautions), and I'm concerned because I'm leaving on a trip where I expect to boondock for a few days and I don't have time to undo anything. I read a post which said that I could pull the fuse for the inverter when it's not being used. Is this advised? And which fuse is it? I see the top slot labeled EMS, so that's my best guess. And if the fuse is pulled, will the fridge and other DC loads still work on my '15 IS? Thanks for any information. The dealer is useless for any help.
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:46 AM   #97
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You have to disable the relay to save that power. Removing the fuse won't help with that as that relay is in the path of all of your electrical loads.

With the relay in place, and just the fridge and freezer running from 9:00pm on a fully charged battery, plus the fan for a few hours, I woke up at 6:30 with essentially dead batteries at 11.7 volts . Plan to take the relay out of the loop asap.
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Old 06-08-2016, 03:05 PM   #98
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Sorry to take this thread back to near the beginning, but I just had SB 164 done (before reading all the cautions), and I'm concerned because I'm leaving on a trip where I expect to boondock for a few days and I don't have time to undo anything.

You can a quick and dirty job by lifting the jump seat, remove the white board//screen and join the red cables on the solenoid to one of the solenoid posts. Then remove the 5 amp fuse they installed. Should be the last one with a blue wire going to it. This will electrically remove the solenoid and return the system operation to the pre SB state. On your trip be sure to keep the inverter turned off unless you need it. You can turn this on and off from the Magnum RC in the overhead control panel. Also, keep your main gas relay turned off unless needed. This will cover you for overnights. You can see one of my photos in the thread where I did this. I went back later and completely removed the relay and extra cabling/wiring.
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