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lewster · 06-28-2014, 12:09 PM

Ahy,

If you have 2 group 27 Lifelines, your settings are off. You have a 200 amp/hour battery bank. Also, the absorb time should be 1hour for a bank of this size.

Also, a 300 amp class T fuse should only be used for 2/0 cable. What size inverter cable do you have? I would think 1/0 or smaller. If so, you need a much smaller fuse.

Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

PharmGeek · 06-28-2014, 12:37 PM

how many amps to run both my AC units out sheer curosity? I was wondering to myself about a larger unit to have permanent in my truck bed later down the road to use for home use if needed and for dry camping in the heat....13.5k unit and 15k unit

73shark · 06-28-2014, 01:25 PM

My 13.5 uses about 14-19 amps depending on outside temperature.

Airrogant · 06-28-2014, 03:02 PM

The 13,500 BTU unit's compressor has a full-load current requirement of 12.4 A. The 15,000 BTU unit consumes 13.3 A. The fan motor requires approximately 3 A of additional current.

Note that these values are only for normal running conditions. Starting currents can be as much as 7 - 10 times higher for very short periods of time. The LRA (locked rotor amps) for these motors are listed here:

https://www.dometic.com/b97fb7b3-584c-470d-b19d-6b5d758792f7.fodoc

This is why Dometic requires a 3.5 KW generator for one unit and a 5.0 kW unit for two.

PharmGeek · 07-02-2014, 12:53 PM

So like a honda EU6500 or EU7000 would run both AC units

I'm just bored and thinking

Bout to have electrician quote me for home 50amp install and trailer sits about 100 ish feet from fuse box so it will be costly I think

Want power for home airstream AC use for planned guests I get every year for extra sleeping arrangement (including during hottest summer months)

Perhaps such a generator will replace my need to pay the electrician and serve double duty for home

jquayle · 07-03-2014, 11:06 AM

You can use a normal 110v with an adapter and still run the ac unit. Dealer supplied my a a heavy gauge 30amp extension and an adapter down to normal wall outlet when I bought my AS.

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xrvr · 07-03-2014, 11:52 AM

No you cannot without problems sooner or later. Jim

TG Twinkie · 07-03-2014, 12:41 PM

You will eventually damage the A/C running it with a 15/30 adaptor. The voltage drop caused by the smaller wire, plus the increased current will damage the 15/30 adaptor.
The guy at A$ doesn't have a clue!

Boxster1971 · 07-03-2014, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

You will eventually damage the A/C running it with a 15/30 adaptor. The voltage drop caused by the smaller wire, plus the increased current will damage the 15/30 adaptor.
The guy at A$ doesn't have a clue!

Just use a 20 amp circuit. The adapter will support 20 amps and It works OK on the Interstates with their smaller AC units. You select the 20 amp option on the power monitor panel and you won't be able to power much else. The AC on an Interstate draws about 18 amps at max.

- - Mike
2013 Lounge EXT on 2012 Sprinter

Bikerbill · 07-03-2014, 07:38 PM

jquayle, if you are plugged into a 15 amp circuit and your rv is the only thing drawing power from that 15 amp circuit and you are using a heavy extension cord as you state, no problem. That is unless it over 20-25' long. Window air conditioners in most houses are plugged into 15 amp outlets in the home and there is no problem. What you want to make sure with your RV is to not turn on any other heavy duty current draws: water heater for example.

toskeysam · 07-05-2014, 03:40 PM

To pharmgeek....I just looked into a 30 amp installation. Box set at 150 feet from main panel.....cable alone was $600. Ouch! May move the parking pad a little closer to the house.

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PharmGeek · 07-05-2014, 05:33 PM

yeah, no matter how I slice it, its going to be expensive....electrician is coming on monday to quote me on the cheapest way to do it...but expect it will be total cast at least 1K...if not 2k or more...we shall see...

Given how rare I will need to run AC at home and such....I may just buy something like the new Honda EU7000 (or its predecessor EU6500) and use it for home backup and home airstream use...and for travel when I will have no hookups....

xrvr · 07-05-2014, 05:39 PM

Might not be a bad idea, it being hurricane season. A genny at home to use with the AS or to run the fridge and fans etc, during power shortage is reassuring. Remember to store gas and exercise the genny occasionally. Those big units are real quiet, also. Jim

Airrogant · 07-05-2014, 09:33 PM

Depending on what else you need to power in addition to the air conditioning you might be able to get by with much less generator. I see that Honda manufacturers quite a few different 5000 W units. You could probably save some money if you bought one of them instead of the 6500 or larger.

switz · 07-06-2014, 04:23 AM

A 50m amp circuit like the wiring coming into the circuit breaker box in the Airstream trailer is composed of three #6 conductors for that short entrance cable.

To go over 100' and contend with air conditioner startup current, I could see direct burial #2 copper triplex cable. After all it is only $$$$$$$ and it is for your Airstream which is worth it.

mefly2 · 07-06-2014, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jquayle

You can use a normal 110v with an adapter and still run the ac unit. Dealer supplied my a a heavy gauge 30amp extension and an adapter down to normal wall outlet when I bought my AS.

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Do you have that on a 30 amp home circuit? Even with that and any distance from a dedicated outlet, you will be risking trouble IMHO.

PharmGeek · 07-06-2014, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

A 50m amp circuit like the wiring coming into the circuit breaker box in the Airstream trailer is composed of three #6 conductors for that short entrance cable.

To go over 100' and contend with air conditioner startup current, I could see direct burial #2 copper triplex cable. After all it is only $$$$$$$ and it is for your Airstream which is worth it.

Uhhhh - just how many $$$$ are talking for that cable ?!?!
?

PharmGeek · 07-06-2014, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airrogant

Depending on what else you need to power in addition to the air conditioning you might be able to get by with much less generator. I see that Honda manufacturers quite a few different 5000 W units. You could probably save some money if you bought one of them instead of the 6500 or larger.

Thanks - I'll be looking into these as well

wayneskid · 07-07-2014, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

Uhhhh - just how many $$$$ are talking for that cable ?!?!
?

To supply a 30A load 100' away #6 wire (copper) will keep the voltage drop to 3%. 125' of 63 UF-B cable is $306 at Home Depot.

jquayle · 07-08-2014, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bikerbill

jquayle, if you are plugged into a 15 amp circuit and your rv is the only thing drawing power from that 15 amp circuit and you are using a heavy extension cord as you state, no problem. That is unless it over 20-25' long. Window air conditioners in most houses are plugged into 15 amp outlets in the home and there is no problem. What you want to make sure with your RV is to not turn on any other heavy duty current draws: water heater for example.

Thanks for the info. We don't do it very often, but occasionally before a trip with the kids we run it for a few minutes to cool down the AS before we leave. Normally the only items I have running are the fridge and the ceiling fan on the temp sensitive setting. (I find opening the rear most pop out window vents along with the ceiling fan draws a good amount air and keeps the van cool on all but the hottest days)

Jeff

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