Running AC on Generator Power

[73shark]

Originally Posted by joemikeb

My take on that is the control panel is smarter than I was giving it credit for.

I agree with you if the panel can actually tell what the breaker size is that it's connected to. However I do not think the Airstream technology is quite that smart.

[David M]

Originally Posted by 73shark

I agree with you if the panel can actually tell what the breaker size is that it's connected to. However I do not think the Airstream technology is quite that smart.

Lol, I don't think it's that smart either

[David M]

Originally Posted by 73shark

That's the same switch I'm talking about. It's just that when I press it it doesn't do anything. It doesn't switch between 20 and 30 amps. I even tried pressing and holding for several seconds to see if that's what it took it still doesn't change. The LED light remains lit for 30 amps all the time.

Yeah, there's something wrong there. You should be able to toggle between 20 and 30 amps.

[MILATV]

Originally Posted by David M

Yeah, there's something wrong there. You should be able to toggle between 20 and 30 amps.

Stupid question here - but you don't have generator running do you? It will default to generator over shore power if running.

Just covering all bases. Mine switched pretty quick from 30 to 20 when pressed.

[russ240]

Originally Posted by MILATV

May have found culprit, we took showers in van, and tried to heat water with elec for 10 min or so, but no indicator to say its running (first time trying water heater) so we turned off elec and fired it up gas. If water heater pulls from bat or inv I'm sure it sucked them down pretty low!

Just to clarify, the water heater does not run off battery power (neither 12v dc nor via inverter to 120v ac). It is a large load and can only run off of shore or generator power, just like the roof top air. Now the cold-weather tank heating pads (controlled by the red switch by the sliding door) for the fresh and grey water tanks, that's a different story. Those do draw 12v and will kill the house batteries in about 4 hours.

[Teamaron]

Ok

It happened again today.

Here's the scenario:

engines running and I go and start generator.

No problem, it starts right up and runs.

I then go and turn on AC after waiting a few minutes for Jenny to warm up.

So far so good, alls ok.

I then go shutoff chassis engine.

Now is when it starts going downhill.

After about 10 min or so of engine being off and no change in settings of Jenny. AC still running and all ok.

THEN, BAM everything shuts off. CAN'T RESTART !! ALL DEAD.

Only way to restart is by starting chassis engine again. It has to be batteries? Right?

But the weird thing is batteries still show 13+ volts even with nothing on?

This Damn thing is frustrating....

[David M]

Wow, Teamaron; it sounds like you've got a completely different problem than what I had Hopefully consolidated minds of this forum can come up with a diagnosis...
David

[morgandc]

On my old coach the generator and propane solenoid ran off the chasis batteries. If the chassis batteries are not great, when you alternator goes off you may not have enough voltage to fully open the propane solenoid for the generator. Then the generator may not have enough fuel to run at full power.

[hamiltonmj]

Agree. If battery power to the switch goes low then generator may shut down. Ca u check propane switch power?

[73shark]

Unless the inverter is off, wouldn't the generator bring the battery voltage up to the normal charge voltage and keep propane valve open?

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by hamiltonmj

Agree. If battery power to the switch goes low then generator may shut down. Ca u check propane switch power?

Indirectly, there's a simple check. Light a burner on the stove. If it lights and goes right out, the solenoid is closed and you've just burned the residual LPG in the lines. Or maybe you've run out of propane in the tank. If the burner lights and stays lit, the solenoid is open.

However, on the Interstates, the propane solenoid is definitely powered from the house batteries, not the chassis battery. If you have enough battery power to start the generator, you've got enough for the propane solenoid to stay open. The only way you'd lose battery power while the generator is running is if your inverter/charger is malfunctioning (or switched off, as 73shark suggests) and not charging the house batteries— or maybe if you have an intermittent fault on a battery terminal connection so the inverter/charger can't charge the batteries.

[Teamaron]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Indirectly, there's a simple check. Light a burner on the stove. If it lights and goes right out, the solenoid is closed and you've just burned the residual LPG in the lines. Or maybe you've run out of propane in the tank. If the burner lights and stays lit, the solenoid is open.

However, on the Interstates, the propane solenoid is definitely powered from the house batteries, not the chassis battery. If you have enough battery power to start the generator, you've got enough for the propane solenoid to stay open. The only way you'd lose battery power while the generator is running is if your inverter/charger is malfunctioning (or switched off, as 73shark suggests) and not charging the house batteries— or maybe if you have an intermittent fault on a battery terminal connection so the inverter/charger can't charge the batteries.

I tried running burners and no problem there. But only when generator running. If jenny not on I don't even hear solenoid turn on or off at switch on outside of coach.

I think it's bad house batteries.

But how would you check for intermittent faults or inverter malfunction?

[73shark]

What's the house battery voltage after sitting for awhile w/o charging? And when the generator is running?

[Ahy]

Originally Posted by David M

I'm really sorry to hear that. After reading your post, I went out to test the AC because I haven't used mine since then either. And though it took a little over a minute for the lights on the Power Control System to light up, it eventually did and the AC is blowing fine (I'm in it as I'm typing this). Too bad you didn't notice what the voltage of your house batteries were. Mine was at 13.3v when I started the genset (thanks to my solar panel upgrade). Just a guess, but I'm wondering if your house batteries still wasn't high enough even after driving for an hour, and the power was still diverting towards the charging system.

Hi David

I am new owner of 2014.5 ext .my first RV ,started last week and also in orange country too.
Would you please give me a direction to solar up grade ? Mine got 50 w only .

Also Adding two extra lifeline AGM to the Bank today .

Thanks

[73shark]

Welcome to the Air Forums.

I thought the new models came w/ a 75W panel. Anyway here's a thread dealing w/ solar upgrades.

Where are you placing the extra AGMs.

[Dungrace]

Originally Posted by Teamaron

Ok

It happened again today.

Here's the scenario:

engines running and I go and start generator.

No problem, it starts right up and runs.

I then go and turn on AC after waiting a few minutes for Jenny to warm up.

So far so good, alls ok.

I then go shutoff chassis engine.

Now is when it starts going downhill.

After about 10 min or so of engine being off and no change in settings of Jenny. AC still running and all ok.

THEN, BAM everything shuts off. CAN'T RESTART !! ALL DEAD.

Only way to restart is by starting chassis engine again. It has to be batteries? Right?

But the weird thing is batteries still show 13+ volts even with nothing on?

This Damn thing is frustrating....

I had the same problem with my 2014.5 that I just bought. I brought it back to the dealership and they said I had a bad Magnum power energy management system that needed to be replace.

[Teamaron]

Originally Posted by Dungrace

I had the same problem with my 2014.5 that I just bought. I brought it back to the dealership and they said I had a bad Magnum power energy management system that needed to be replace.

I figured it out. Generator was low on oil and it's a safety feature. Service guy told me after routine service.

But anyway got rid of my 2010 and got a 2014. Now I'll know for next time.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[lewster]

Originally Posted by Dungrace

I had the same problem with my 2014.5 that I just bought. I brought it back to the dealership and they said I had a bad Magnum power energy management system that needed to be replace.

Magnum makes the inverter, not the energy management system.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally certified Master Tech
Master Tech RV Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[Dungrace]

That's what my service lady told me and mine is still in the shop.

[Ahy]

Originally Posted by 73shark

Welcome to the Air Forums.

I thought the new models came w/ a 75W panel. Anyway here's a thread dealing w/ solar upgrades.

Where are you placing the extra AGMs.

I put it under the chair next to the inverter . Two 100ah type 27 #1 wire . Tide it to original bank ,before 300amp T-type DC Fuse .
And adjust the bank size to 400ah on the control panel (to extend absorb charging time to 120 minutes .
Order two battery try from amazon.com. And have the local shop to make aluminum enclosure box.