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Old 07-06-2013, 07:26 PM   #57
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Thank you wayneskid and Boxster1971 - and others. I'm concerned about these settings because I had been keeping the coach batteries fully charged at home by periodically plugging in the shoreline; and then had to go away for 15 days, leaving the batteries disabled with the switch - and returned to find the coaches batteries were totally flat, they couldn't even power a single led light. I never got to the bottom of it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:08 AM   #58
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Thank you wayneskid and Boxster1971 - and others. I'm concerned about these settings because I had been keeping the coach batteries fully charged at home by periodically plugging in the shoreline; and then had to go away for 15 days, leaving the batteries disabled with the switch - and returned to find the coaches batteries were totally flat, they couldn't even power a single led light. I never got to the bottom of it.
That's a big bummer! The bad news is that just one cycle of completely discharging your batteries has damaged them permanently. They will now never have their rated capacity. So, I hope you can find the cause of the discharge before you replace the batteries. As you have a different Inverter/Charger I can't give you much specific help but the main battery disconnect switch in my 2010 Interstate disconnects almost all loads. With the main disconnect off, it shouldn't discharge the batteries to the extent you mention in 15 days.

Good luck!
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:17 AM   #59
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Unless it was cloudy every day, the solar panel should have kept them charged.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:57 AM   #60
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That's a big bummer! The bad news is that just one cycle of completely discharging your batteries has damaged them permanently. They will now never have their rated capacity. So, I hope you can find the cause of the discharge before you replace the batteries. As you have a different Inverter/Charger I can't give you much specific help but the main battery disconnect switch in my 2010 Interstate disconnects almost all loads. With the main disconnect off, it shouldn't discharge the batteries to the extent you mention in 15 days.

Good luck!
In my 2012, the main battery disconnect doesn't quite disconnect everything. Here's what remains powered when the disconnect is switched off, based on what I remember of experimenting— and making mistakes— on my Interstate:
(1) Solar panel - but that's good. I mention this because the solar panel's charge controller is powered by the battery, not by the panel. A side effect of this is, if the batteries are discharged too far, the solar panel's charge controller quits working and the panel stops charging the batteries.
(2) Solenoid for propane cutoff, IF the propane cutoff switch is left on. Pretty hefty drain, about 18 amp-hours per day, if memory serves. Another Forums poster listed the actual drain, somewhere.
(3) Inverter, IF the inverter is set to "auto/invert." This means that if you left any breakers on, 120vAC appliances such as the televisions can still draw power— any television with a remote still draws some power even when switched off, otherwise it couldn't receive a signal from the remote to turn on. And of course the inverter itself draws power, too, to power itself even if no appliances are running. But, since you have a different inverter/charger, yours might be wired differently. Easy enough to find out, though. Disconnect any shore power and leave the generator off. Plug a tester into one of the outlets, leave the breakers on, leave the inverter on, and turn off the battery disconnect. If the tester registers current, your inverter bypasses the cutoff, too, same as mine.
(4) LPG detector— I think— but that draws less than 10 milliamps.
(5) The sofa recliner motor— I think— I'd have to check to confirm that, because it has been a while since I accidentally tried to move the sofa with the disconnect switched off. But that's not a draw unless you're trying to move the sofa. I mention it only for the sake of completeness.
(6) The television antenna amplifier. This is a huge draw all by itself, so you must always switch it off when you're not using the televisions.

The retractable side step draws off the chassis battery, not the house batteries. I think the power awning does, too.

I made this list by memory, so if I forgot something, or mis-remembered, I hope other Forums posters will correct me.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:28 AM   #61
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The only one I would change is B4 to UP as the inverter will draw less current and it also will extend the life of the batteries. (according to the Tripp-Lite manual) It also was the change that kept the A/C from tripping off last summer.
Well I set the dip switches as recommended and then set b4 to up.

Let the rv sit for 2 days not connected to shore power.

Fired up the generator until the appliances all lit up and then kicked on the ac.

NO PROBLEMS!

Thank you all for the help. I think this problem has finally been solved.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:57 AM   #62
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Well I set the dip switches as recommended and then set b4 to up.

Let the rv sit for 2 days not connected to shore power.

Fired up the generator until the appliances all lit up and then kicked on the ac.

NO PROBLEMS!

Thank you all for the help. I think this problem has finally been solved.
Fantastic! This has been working for me too. I also just set B4 to the up position to see how that works.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:20 AM   #63
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I've been thinking about this (always trouble). You guys have the propane version of the Onan 2500 or 2800 generator, right? The B190 had the gas version but it's basically the same generator, although on propane it'll produce a bit less power.

Even still, with the gasoline version, I could stall the generator with just the A/C sometimes, especially if I'd just started it. I learned to try to slowly build up the load - I'd always turn the fan of the A/C on high first and let the generator stabilize there, then turn on the A/C and hope for the best.
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Old 07-08-2013, 07:37 AM   #64
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I've been thinking about this (always trouble). You guys have the propane version of the Onan 2500 or 2800 generator, right? The B190 had the gas version but it's basically the same generator, although on propane it'll produce a bit less power.

Even still, with the gasoline version, I could stall the generator with just the A/C sometimes, especially if I'd just started it. I learned to try to slowly build up the load - I'd always turn the fan of the A/C on high first and let the generator stabilize there, then turn on the A/C and hope for the best.
Mine is the Onan 2500, propane. Generator manual stays start it no-load, and let it run briefly to warm up before adding any electrical loads. I shove the a/c thermostat all the way up before turning on the a/c, and then gradually pull the thermostat down to the desired temperature, so the a/c is energized before the compressor kicks on.

Never had a problem (so far) with my generator bogging down or stalling. Could be because a propane generator hasn't got a carburator bowl, almost like throttle-body fuel injection. But that's just speculation; I'm not an expert on the differences between gas and propane generators in terms of performance. (Mark your calendars, folks! Pro' has actually admitted to not being an expert on something!)
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:38 PM   #65
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Even still, with the gasoline version, I could stall the generator with just the A/C sometimes, especially if I'd just started it. I learned to try to slowly build up the load - I'd always turn the fan of the A/C on high first and let the generator stabilize there, then turn on the A/C and hope for the best.
My guy said to wait 'til all of the green LEDs are lit on the Load Monitor before putting any heavy loads on the generator like the A/C, microwave, W/H, etc.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:38 PM   #66
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My guy said to wait 'til all of the green LEDs are lit on the Load Monitor before putting any heavy loads on the generator like the A/C, microwave, W/H, etc.
I would second that. The fan will run but the compressor won't try to come on before the green lights come on anyway

(At least with the Tripp lite)
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:34 AM   #67
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My guy said to wait 'til all of the green LEDs are lit on the Load Monitor before putting any heavy loads on the generator like the A/C, microwave, W/H, etc.
Mine had no load monitor. My load monitor was my ears - "Seems to be running okay, load it up!"
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:41 PM   #68
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In my 2012, the main battery disconnect doesn't quite disconnect everything. Here's what remains powered when the disconnect is switched off, based on what I remember of experimenting— and making mistakes— on my Interstate:
(1) Solar panel - but that's good. I mention this because the solar panel's charge controller is powered by the battery, not by the panel. A side effect of this is, if the batteries are discharged too far, the solar panel's charge controller quits working and the panel stops charging the batteries.
(2) Solenoid for propane cutoff, IF the propane cutoff switch is left on. Pretty hefty drain, about 18 amp-hours per day, if memory serves. Another Forums poster listed the actual drain, somewhere.
(3) Inverter, IF the inverter is set to "auto/invert." This means that if you left any breakers on, 120vAC appliances such as the televisions can still draw power— any television with a remote still draws some power even when switched off, otherwise it couldn't receive a signal from the remote to turn on. And of course the inverter itself draws power, too, to power itself even if no appliances are running. But, since you have a different inverter/charger, yours might be wired differently. Easy enough to find out, though. Disconnect any shore power and leave the generator off. Plug a tester into one of the outlets, leave the breakers on, leave the inverter on, and turn off the battery disconnect. If the tester registers current, your inverter bypasses the cutoff, too, same as mine.
(4) LPG detector— I think— but that draws less than 10 milliamps.
(5) The sofa recliner motor— I think— I'd have to check to confirm that, because it has been a while since I accidentally tried to move the sofa with the disconnect switched off. But that's not a draw unless you're trying to move the sofa. I mention it only for the sake of completeness.
(6) The television antenna amplifier. This is a huge draw all by itself, so you must always switch it off when you're not using the televisions.

The retractable side step draws off the chassis battery, not the house batteries. I think the power awning does, too.

I made this list by memory, so if I forgot something, or mis-remembered, I hope other Forums posters will correct me.
Protagonist, how do you turn off the television antenna amplifier? Is that the small button inside the overcab locker on the left side wall? Normally I see a green light in there.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:34 PM   #69
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Protagonist, how do you turn off the television antenna amplifier? Is that the small button inside the overcab locker on the left side wall? Normally I see a green light in there.
The green light is a lighted switch. Press it and the light (and amplifier) should go off. Be careful; it's placed unconscionably close to a 12v power outlet, which you do not want to press.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:49 PM   #70
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I have a 2011interstate twin. I checked the to see if the red 12 volt shutoff would cut off the lp solenoid. If I open the red12 volt shutoff switch and light the lp stove it wit burn off residual gas in about 30-60 seconds, if you read the manual it states that the power to the lp solenoid is removed when you open the red 12 volt switch.
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