Recommendation for a good alignment shop in South Florida?

[UKDUDE]

Currently on a long cross country trip and the rig is fully loaded more than its ever been; and noticed the front tires are wearing fast on their outer edge.
Soooo, I think I need an urgent alignment. Can anyone recommend a specific place?
Currently in North Carolina - New Bern - but heading south until we can’t go any further!
Thanks..... Peter

[AI Joe]

Also looking for tire - suspension - alignment recommendation in Southeast, Florida (Miami) preferred.

At 28500 miles, front tires (Continental Vanco's) are wearing on outer edge only. Seems from AirForums that standard Mercedes alignment doesn't compensate for full van weight, so suggested camber set at 0.

Thinking of only replacing 2 front tires (rear tires in still in excellent shape and dates/age are still good) with Defenders . . .

Might also add Koni FSD shocks if someone has a good recommendation.

Thanks.

[UKDUDE]

Originally Posted by AI Joe

Also looking for tire - suspension - alignment recommendation in Southeast, Florida (Miami) preferred.



At 28500 miles, front tires (Continental Vanco's) are wearing on outer edge only. Seems from AirForums that standard Mercedes alignment doesn't compensate for full van weight, so suggested camber set at 0.



Thinking of only replacing 2 front tires (rear tires in still in excellent shape and dates/age are still good) with Defenders . . .



Might also add Koni FSD shocks if someone has a good recommendation.



Thanks.

Yep, my front tires are just like yours at 27440 miles! Rears are still in great shape.
If I can get an alignment, I’ll also go with a couple of Defenders.

[AI Joe]

Originally Posted by UKDUDE

Yep, my front tires are just like yours at 27440 miles! Rears are still in great shape.
If I can get an alignment, I’ll also go with a couple of Defenders.

Try Josam Trucks, speak with Barry; 407-438-7020. He sounded pretty knowledgeable; might go there on our way North for alignment and Koni FSD shocks - he does not do tires.
8849 EXCHANGE DR. ORLANDO, FLORIDA 32809

[AI Joe]

Lots of chatter here on Air Forums and elsewhere that indicates that camber should be set close to Zero to prevent outer front tire wear. Mercedes tells me that they will set to factory, not to what I want (still under Mercedes warranty). That is why I am looking elsewhere. Lots of chatter also about SumoSprings and Koni shocks -- I am leaning towards the shocks as I think they might do more as a first pass.
Also, someone I respect suggested I just get the two new front tires for safety's sake - and skip the alignment and all. Says that in another 20k miles I will need to replace the rear tires and suggested at that time (after more research and contemplation on my part) I can decide on the alignment, shocks and Sumo's. Might be the best advice as I have no front end wobble or other steering issues, so might be that I travel at GVWR with a 4' hitch shelf that carries two e-bikes - that is a weight of about 400 lbs on my hitch, so my front end might be "up in the air" a bit.... At about $600 for the two new Defenders with wheel balance and installation, I might go that route.

[Titus]

I have often wondered if the camber actually needs to be reset from factory original 1.3 to get ~0 on a heavily loaded vehicle, versus how much of the change from 1.3 to 0 occurs 'naturally'. If the camber is set at 1.3 at the MB factory it seems that the heavy stuff added by Airstream would cause the suspension members to bend/flex/sag, yielding ~0 when heavily loaded. I say this because the first time my alignment was checked at 30,000 miles the camber (on both sides) was 0.1. Was this just luck, or was it a result of the sagging that occurs when heavily loaded.

My theory: When it gets reset you either
a) reset to ~0 on your heavily loaded vehicle or
b) you take off all the Airstream stuff and then reset of factory specs of 1.3
I think if you set it to 1.3 on a heavily-loaded vehicle you'd end up at 2ish if you were to remove the weight. I think the suspension height in the MB alignment specs is supposed to take this into account - but I wonder if the shops actually measure and use suspension height.

Opinions of others?

[UKDUDE]

Humm, I hope I haven’t opened up a can of worms here!
I’ve been on this forum for years and always believed zero camber is what I need. However, it’s taken me 27000 miles to notice any ill effects of the factory settings. So does that mean once I get back to normal weight (the AI not me) a setting of zero camber will wear the inner edge of the tires more quickly?
And here’s another thought: shouldn’t the factory settings along with the vehicle’s suspension design geometry be able to handle the varying loads of a 3500 van meant for city deliveries?

[AI Joe]

There is so much varied discussion on this topic that perhaps it is best to accept that the front tires will wear out first - thus changing the two front tires at 27-28k if they are showing wear might be the simplest and smartest move. Also least expensive. Perhaps those of us traveling with a full load (11030 GVWR) are experiencing faster front tire wear.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by AI Joe

Try Josam Trucks, speak with Barry; 407-438-7020. He sounded pretty knowledgeable; might go there on our way North for alignment and Koni FSD shocks - he does not do tires.
8849 EXCHANGE DR. ORLANDO, FLORIDA 32809

Thank you. Had a chance to talk to Barry. They can do the alignment, but as you mentioned, they do not do tires... So I can't get the tire leak fixed there.

They do not have equipment to do road-force balancing either... so I need to find another place for that... neither Mercedes of South nor North Orlando have the equipment for it either...

I need to first fix the leak and get the front tires road-force balanced and then take it to Barry for the alignment.

[GCinSC2]

Road force locator https://www.hunter.com/gsp9700

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Road force locator https://www.hunter.com/gsp9700

I used that... Issue that I am having is that they might have the machine, but they do not service Sprinters...

Still looking and calling.

[AI Joe]

Turns out the tire shop needs more than the Hunter Road Force machine; they also need the right "cone" to fit your wheel. Anyway, after more research and going on instinct, I found Charlie's Garage in Key Largo (my home town) that agreed with me on the "change only the front tires" decision.
[I didn't tell them, I listened as they suggested changing only front tires now, as the rear tires (they saw the RV as I brought it with me) are, they stated, "fine."]
So, next week I will bring the AI to Charlie's for 2 new front tires (Michelin Defenders) which be balanced with their Hunter Road Force machine [they insist they have all the right "cones" to get this done].

As they also have a "state of the art" alignment machine, we're going to have an alignment done as well. After listening to Charlie, wherein he suggested a front end alignment would help, but only if the RV is fully loaded and ready for travel! So, we're now getting the RV ready for a long road trip (which is planned for August anyway).

I will post my reaction to their work here and then perhaps after a few thousand miles of travel, any remarks I might have on how the RV now travels with the Michelins on front, Continental Vanco's on rear, and new alignment; when Charlie does it I will discuss the "0" camber, etc.

Wish us good luck.

Thanks UK Dude for starting this thread and everyone for your comments.

AI Joe

(Meanwhile, it's back to my rear shade motor, which I replaced on Tuesday with a new upgraded motor and external remote switch; it now goes up and down as it wishes, when it wishes! Exorcism needed? [?#$+&!!!!] Ah, the joys of owning an RV, [Airstream or Prevost], they're all the same; just like a boat!)

[UKDUDE]

Originally Posted by AI Joe

Turns out the tire shop needs more than the Hunter Road Force machine; they also need the right "cone" to fit your wheel. Anyway, after more research and going on instinct, I found Charlie's Garage in Key Largo (my home town) that agreed with me on the "change only the front tires" decision.

[I didn't tell them, I listened as they suggested changing only front tires now, as the rear tires (they saw the RV as I brought it with me) are, they stated, "fine."]

So, next week I will bring the AI to Charlie's for 2 new front tires (Michelin Defenders) which be balanced with their Hunter Road Force machine [they insist they have all the right "cones" to get this done].



As they also have a "state of the art" alignment machine, we're going to have an alignment done as well. After listening to Charlie, wherein he suggested a front end alignment would help, but only if the RV is fully loaded and ready for travel! So, we're now getting the RV ready for a long road trip (which is planned for August anyway).



I will post my reaction to their work here and then perhaps after a few thousand miles of travel, any remarks I might have on how the RV now travels with the Michelins on front, Continental Vanco's on rear, and new alignment; when Charlie does it I will discuss the "0" camber, etc.



Wish us good luck.



Thanks UK Dude for starting this thread and everyone for your comments.



AI Joe



(Meanwhile, it's back to my rear shade motor, which I replaced on Tuesday with a new upgraded motor and external remote switch; it now goes up and down as it wishes, when it wishes! Exorcism needed? [?#$+&!!!!] Ah, the joys of owning an RV, [Airstream or Prevost], they're all the same; just like a boat!)

Thanks AI Joe. I’m just returning from Key Largo - and can’t understand how anyone can live in the heat and humidity there!
Didn’t get to use Josam Trucks in Orlando since we were there over the weekend. However events kind of took over our schedule.... while in Leo’s Campground in KW the macerator pump decided to play war with me and no way was I going under the AI in that heat! So on the return journey North Trail RV Center in Fort Myers took care of it for me. What a huge complex there - all high end RVs, Newells as far as the eye can see!
We’re back on the road now heading for New Orleans!

[AI Joe]

It shouldn’t be this difficult ... to get a simple front end alignment and wheel balance.

But it sure seems it is. The local garage that assured me they could do a proper alignment wasn’t able to do it!!! Turns out the AI is too long and wouldn’t fit! Shouldn’t they know this in advance - one would think so.

Anyway, I got two new front tires (Michelin Defenders) but the balancing weights are on the inside, not the inside where they belong on a Aluminum wheel! And now I know to question any alignment shop - so far 3 I’ve called say the AI is too big. So I’m now checking truck shops. At least I’ve got new tires to travel on....

And I thought the Mercedes part of the Interstate would be the easy part!

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by AI Joe

It shouldn’t be this difficult ... to get a simple front end alignment and wheel balance.

But it sure seems it is. The local garage that assured me they could do a proper alignment wasn’t able to do it!!! Turns out the AI is too long and wouldn’t fit! Shouldn’t they know this in advance - one would think so.

Anyway, I got two new front tires (Michelin Defenders) but the balancing weights are on the inside, not the inside where they belong on a Aluminum wheel! And now I know to question any alignment shop - so far 3 I’ve called say the AI is too big. So I’m now checking truck shops. At least I’ve got new tires to travel on....

And I thought the Mercedes part of the Interstate would be the easy part!

I feel your pain... no luck here either... I will just wait. Local Mercedes dealer in Sanford and Millennia mentioned that they should have that equipment in about a month.

[Tronadora]

Originally Posted by AI Joe

Lots of chatter here on Air Forums and elsewhere that indicates that camber should be set close to Zero to prevent outer front tire wear. Mercedes tells me that they will set to factory, not to what I want (still under Mercedes warranty). That is why I am looking elsewhere. Lots of chatter also about SumoSprings and Koni shocks -- I am leaning towards the shocks as I think they might do more as a first pass.
Also, someone I respect suggested I just get the two new front tires for safety's sake - and skip the alignment and all. Says that in another 20k miles I will need to replace the rear tires and suggested at that time (after more research and contemplation on my part) I can decide on the alignment, shocks and Sumo's. Might be the best advice as I have no front end wobble or other steering issues, so might be that I travel at GVWR with a 4' hitch shelf that carries two e-bikes - that is a weight of about 400 lbs on my hitch, so my front end might be "up in the air" a bit.... At about $600 for the two new Defenders with wheel balance and installation, I might go that route.

AI Joe
I suggest no sumos on the rear. I took mine off because they fill the distance between axle and chassis then are so stiff they don’t allow much travel up and down.

Now I’m playing with Boss airbags and one extra leaf spring but I can’t recommend this setup either right now. Too much hard jolting on uneven pavement joints and potholes from the extra leaf spring.

These airbags might be ok as the second step after shocks. I’ve tried lots of air pressures. I suggest do the shocks and wait to evaluate.

We are at weight limit now and have 7000 lbs on the rear. Looking to sell my AGM 220Ah batteries out of my rear trunk locker and go with lithium to save on cantilevered weight.

[AI Joe]

Originally Posted by Tronadora

AI Joe
I suggest no sumos on the rear. I took mine off because they fill the distance between axle and chassis then are so stiff they don’t allow much travel up and down. ... We are at weight limit now and have 7000 lbs on the rear.

Thanks Tronadora:
Wife and I have been discussing Sumo's and/or Koni's for some time. Not sure which Sumo's we need for rear - as SuperSprings offers one for the 3500 with the 2" block on the axle (SSR336-47-1) and the alternate (SSR338-54) for axle's without the block. As I can't see if our vehicle has the block, have done nothing yet.

On Monday (8/6) we are scheduled for a full alignment (now with the new Michelin Defenders on the front wheels) at a truck shop; I intend to ask them to check to determine which Sumo's would be right, as well as which Koni's (Red's or FSD's) they would recommend - they offer both options.

My understanding from SuperSprings is that the SSR338-54 actually float above the rear axle, only making contact on turns, bumps, etc. The SSR336-47-1 actually bolt both top and bottom, giving a stiffer ride, according to SuperSprings.

Based upon your comment, and our decision earlier this week, we will only get the alignment on Monday; we can always return for the Sumo's and/or Koni's.

We are at 11,100 GVWR - so 70 lbs over max - with a cargo carrier and two bicycles on the rear hitch. Other than a bit too much bouncing when taking some driveway turnouts, we have little complaint with the 3500 AI-GT handling. After 28,500 miles driving on highways, local roads, etc, we both find the driving and handling to be fine. (FYI: We have had 4 wheel weighing - the drivers side is 150 lbs heavier both front and rear wheels - fully loaded, gas and water full, black and grey empty.)

So, we'll pay more attention to our ride with the new Defenders and re-aligned front-end as we head West next week - and will continue to seek opinions from others. Thanks very much for your input on your Sumo installation.

[Tronadora]

Originally Posted by AI Joe

Thanks Tronadora:

Wife and I have been discussing Sumo's and/or Koni's for some time. Not sure which Sumo's we need for rear - as SuperSprings offers one for the 3500 with the 2" block on the axle (SSR336-47-1) and the alternate (SSR338-54) for axle's without the block. As I can't see if our vehicle has the block, have done nothing yet.



On Monday (8/6) we are scheduled for a full alignment (now with the new Michelin Defenders on the front wheels) at a truck shop; I intend to ask them to check to determine which Sumo's would be right, as well as which Koni's (Red's or FSD's) they would recommend - they offer both options.



My understanding from SuperSprings is that the SSR338-54 actually float above the rear axle, only making contact on turns, bumps, etc. The SSR336-47-1 actually bolt both top and bottom, giving a stiffer ride, according to SuperSprings.



Based upon your comment, and our decision earlier this week, we will only get the alignment on Monday; we can always return for the Sumo's and/or Koni's.



We are at 11,100 GVWR - so 70 lbs over max - with a cargo carrier and two bicycles on the rear hitch. Other than a bit too much bouncing when taking some driveway turnouts, we have little complaint with the 3500 AI-GT handling. After 28,500 miles driving on highways, local roads, etc, we both find the driving and handling to be fine. (FYI: We have had 4 wheel weighing - the drivers side is 150 lbs heavier both front and rear wheels - fully loaded, gas and water full, black and grey empty.)



So, we'll pay more attention to our ride with the new Defenders and re-aligned front-end as we head West next week - and will continue to seek opinions from others. Thanks very much for your input on your Sumo installation.

Some places require front alignment when new front struts are fitted. My shop did not but supposedly marked the camber bolt locations and put new ones in at same locations. I know sounds wonky.

Highly recommend shocks all around !!! Do it now while you’re talking front alignment.

We are at 30000 miles and rears were done with Koni golds at 21k with a fat heliwig sway bar. and fronts got done at 26k w koni red FSD. See sprinterupgrades.com for pics and for pic of sumo spring filling the space.