Rear view camera loses signal in reverse

[GloryBound]

I have 2013 Interstate. I can't find earlier posts on this subject. Does anyone know how to fix this?

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by GloryBound

I have 2013 Interstate. I can't find earlier posts on this subject. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Mine has done this as long as I've owned it, and I haven't found a fix yet.

I do have a work-around, though. When you put it in reverse, reach up and press the second button from the bottom (bottom switch is on/off, second is view select). This will bring the image back up. But you have to do it every time you shift into reverse.

[GloryBound]

Thank you Protagonist. I've done that too for the past year or so. Now that doesn't work either. Backing up is the only time I really use it. The camera/monitor are not my favorite parts of the Interstate.

[gmillerok1]

The unit was probably mis-wired at the factory, which would not be the least bit surprising.

The monitor has three leads. Red, which goes to a 12vdc positive that is on when the ACC or ignition is on, green, which would normally go to a 12vdc positive that is only on when in reverse, such as the reverse lights, and the ground. This is because normally, folks don't want them on all the time. So when the reverse lights are energized, it tells the monitor to display the image from the camera. But since AS uses this a a rear view mirror which is always on, they have to be wired differently. If the image is not displayed when in reverse, then the wires are not connected correctly, plain and simple.

To have the monitor stay on all the time, both positives likely must be powered, all the time. I replaced my Pyle monitor, but the one I have works in similar way. It sounds like they wired it backwards or perhaps have the ground where the positive should be normally connected to the reverse light.

These connections are located on the left (streetside) of the overhead compartment. To check it, pull it off by pulling down the compartment from the right (curbside) which is held in with compression tabs. The other side just had tabs sticking out, so you have to move it a bit down and then to the right to remove the compartment. You can either let it hang or disconnect the microphone and light connectors and set it out of the way.

Look to the left of the now empty hole and you will see some wires stuck in there. Pull them out and let them hang. Don't worry, you won't break anything. Follow the wires from the monitor until you find a connector and these red and green wires, and the ground wires. Check to see what they have them connected to into using a voltmeter. If mis-wired, put the red and green on the same positive lead that is on (note, it may be that you may not even have to connect the green at all, and they just put the ground on the wrong wire, so test it out first).

On a similar subject, another trouble-spot for the backup monitor is the fuse assembly to the camera. The camera is made by Pioneer (not Pyle) and it is powered by a positive connection that should be always on when the ignition or ACC is on. They stuffed this on the left side of the upper storage compartment where the AC adapter/12vdc and antenna amp is located over the driver's and passenger's head. You have to remove the left (streetside) wall, and reach down in the rat's nest to find a small retangular (about 1" long) silver box with connectors on either end. One side goes to the camera, and the other to the monitor. One has a standard glass type fuse assembly. The issue is the fuse assembly gets pushed into the hole, and since it's spring loaded, the connection can get a bit flaky if other wires push up against it (and they will). No connection-no picture. I moved mine so it is now in the back of the upper compartment but accessible, as it'a real pain to remove that wall as you have to unhook the cables to the TV and AC to pull it completely out to get to the fuse.

The manual for the monitor, or one like it, is found at:

Pyle - PLCM7200Â*-Â*On the RoadÂ*-Â*Backup Rearview Parking Cameras

How did I figure this out? I am too far from a dealer to bother replacing a $30 monitor, so after trying three different monitors, I traced the wires from the camera and found the fuse and fixed the issue once and for all.

Originally Posted by GloryBound

I have 2013 Interstate. I can't find earlier posts on this subject. Does anyone know how to fix this?

[GloryBound]

Thank you for all the info. I'm checking the connections this weekend.

[Asheville]

I am having problems with my camera and saw your post. When you take the side panel off to get to the camera fuse assembly how did you get the panel off. Do you just have to take the screws out the screws in the corners that hold the panel in or do you have to take off all the faceplates etc and then pull the whole thing out. I tried just pulling the cover of the antenna booster face plate off to get to the fuse but it would not pull out. Can you give a little more detail about how you got to the fuse assembly. Thanks

[gmillerok1]

Having removed mine twice to fix the camera, I think I can give you a few pointers. It's not an easy job, so do it on a cool day when you are up to the job. It's takes an hour or so to do.

The panel is held on with (if I recall) three black phillips head screws. These screw into a wood frame. But before removing them, you must remove the face plates to the AC plugs and 12vdc plug/amplifier and then remove the 110AC from the panel as well as the 12vdc/antenna amplifier so you can remove the panel to get to the wires on the other side. You may have to disconnect the coax from the amplifier (I had to), but I was able to move the AC outlet and push it through the panel so I didn't have to remove the 110AC wires from the outlet. Then put the panel aside and out of the way.

In the middle of the bottom of the compartment, just above the drivers window, down deep, you will find a small, aluminum colored rectangle box about 1" wide x2" long with connectors on each end. One of the connectors goes to the fuse assembly and the other goes to the camera. Pull all the wires out and separate them. I would suggest checking the fuse, and then pulling the spring a bit to add some tension, and wrap it in black electrical tape to isolate it from any stress when you put it back (if that's what you do).

That's the easy part. The hard part is putting it back. first reconnect the coax or ac lines if you had to remove them. Then stuff the wires back behind the panel, and push the panel so it is flat against the frame and without any of the wires in the way (and hence, why the camera power connection gets messed up in the process). It's not easy to do. Then screw the panel back in place, and replace the face plates and you are done. Be sure to check the camera is working BEFORE you put everything back.

What I did the second time I had this problem was to put the fuse assembly and box through the hole in the front of the side panel so it's on the inside of the van, rather than the other side of the panel, so I can always access it. It's not in the way and not likely to be bothered by anything. That way, if it blows a fuse, or acts up again, I can easily access it without the hassle of having to remove the side panel. Alternatively, it could be positioned over the driver's head to the left of the center overhead compartment if the wires were long enough I suppose. Putting it where it takes an hour to get to it is ridiculous.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by Asheville

I am having problems with my camera and saw your post. When you take the side panel off to get to the camera fuse assembly how did you get the panel off. Do you just have to take the screws out the screws in the corners that hold the panel in or do you have to take off all the faceplates etc and then pull the whole thing out. I tried just pulling the cover of the antenna booster face plate off to get to the fuse but it would not pull out. Can you give a little more detail about how you got to the fuse assembly. Thanks

[Asheville]

Thanks for all of the detail. While waiting to hear back I was messing around with wires and connections above the dome light and was able to pull more connections out to examine. I took all connections apart and put them back together. I also found a small black box with a fuse in it. I took it out and put it back in. Then I turned on the ignition and the camera now works! There was no visible loose connections anywhere so I am not sure which one was loose. Anyway thanks a lot for all the info you provided. Without it I probably would have had to take it to a dealer. A real pain because it takes forever to get an appointment and they are an hour drive.

[gmillerok1]

There is another connection in that center high compartment that goes from the power supply side to the monitor (it's a little black rectangle plastic box). It also is prone to disconnects. No power, no monitor, and no image.

Good to hear you got it working.

[Mjgman]

My camera now has a blank spot in the middle. I thought it was condensation, but it has not gone away.. Anyone else have this problem?

[Mjgman]

My spot..

[montanablue]

That looks like condensation or moisture on or in camera lens. Was that shot in the morning?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[Mjgman]

I thought that's what it was but it's been like that now for 3 days..

[aoldpiddler]

On the subject of back up camera--
I have a 2014 interstate. Does the back up camera almost blinds you when the brakes are applied? Is there a way to move the camera or black out the top of the brake light?

[gmillerok1]

Yes, you can move the camera. It is held on with adhesive tape. Just carefully pull it off. Remove all the adhesive, clean with alcohol both the camera bracket and vehicle surface, and use 3M adhesive tape (available at most auto stores) to replace the camera where you want it. Test it first before permanently mounting it to the vehicle.

[Cobalt302]

Had a no signal on the passenger side turn signial first now we have no camera working at all. So does someone thinks a fuse ( and what one ) or the loose wiring thanks for any info

[WillieJ]

The camera is held on by strong double sided tape. I moved my camera to a spot next to and just to the right of the rear brake light. I have a view which is a little closer to the rear bumper and the camera is no longer blinded by the high brake light. I used Scotch Extreme mounting tape to re-attach the camera.

My biggest current complaint with the camera/video system is that it takes a long time for mine to adjust to lighting conditions; from whiteout to a usable image

[WillieJ]

I see that my photo loaded inverted, but you get the idea.

[RICKBETTY]

I replaced my OEM Camera on my 2015 AI , junk..., Purchased a new one, higher quality from www.rearviewsafety.com . great camera. Had it installed by BestBuy radio geeks. They rewired the entire camera ,home run from camera to monitor for. $175.00.. He took 4 hrs to fish wires, did a neat clean job. The camera was $349.99. Well worth the price and eliminated all the aggravation with original camera...