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Old 07-14-2015, 08:26 AM   #57
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IB: You might check Lloyd's mats for a replacement front mat. They're like Dynamat, pricy but very good. They have several options for the type of material for the mat.
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:49 PM   #58
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Thanks for the reply - appreciated.
Yes, if it will do the job then the price will be worth it.

I'll give it a try now that I know about how much to order.
You are welcome. I had to dash to my job this morning before I finished my thoughts. You are also going to need some kind of decoupage roller tool for this type of project. We couldn't find a good one on short notice and so I had to get a cheapie from Michael's, the big box craft chain. It sorta worked but was not very durable as it was more designed for light-duty scrapbooking and the like.

Here's a pic of my husband at work, remembering that this is a T1N Sprinter cab. He's got the full coverage of Dynamat in place, and the first course of the radiant barrier over top of the lower portion of Dynamat. You can just barely see he's smoothing it with the red decoupage tool in front of him. The silvery stuff with the notches you see above his head is the beginning of the aluminum inner skin. If you look closely you can see bits of Pink Panther sticking out of those notches (what I had previously described as an attempt at R13 insulation). That's where the cab liner interfaces with the rest of the ceiling.
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:05 PM   #59
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IB: You might check Lloyd's mats for a replacement front mat. They're like Dynamat, pricy but very good. They have several options for the type of material for the mat.
Good suggestion but I think this stuff is original to Airstream, not MB, and I haven't yet found any vendor who has anything remotely like it as an off-the-shelf product. Even those vendors who supply Sprinters don't seem to have a good grasp of what is required, as this attached pic suggests. At this point and in the absence of info to the contrary, I'm assuming I'm going to have to hire for a custom job, supplying the original mats to the maker to use as a go-by.
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:13 PM   #60
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Back to the original thread subject. Have run into torrential rain several times on this trip and once I saw water dripping out of the rear A/C and just thought it was condensation. But today there was not only water dripping from the A/C but also on the curbside behind the rear locker over the lounge. Guess I'll have to check out the seal around the A/C when I get home.
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Old 07-14-2015, 09:35 PM   #61
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When I was at JC just a few weeks ago a parking mate was there with a roof leak on their Interstate as well. They said it was coming from the AC unit as well.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:00 PM   #62
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Any idea if they found where it was?
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:59 PM   #63
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The leak into the bathroom comes from improper caulking around the outside of the bathroom powered vent. You must remove the excess caulking from on top of the solar panel next to the vent and remove the 2 screws that hold that side of the panel to the roof (There are another 2 screws in the center and 2 on the passenger side. These don't need to be touched for the repair.) This will give you enough room to carefully pry the solar panel up. Take your time. When you get that end of the solar panel loose enough to look under it, you will find the caulk channels the water right into the outside of the vent. Fill those channels with dicor, re-screw the end of the solar panel and caulk (with dicor) as needed. You'll never see another leak from that thing. I had the same problem. Its now fixed.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:15 PM   #64
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Mine is coming out the A/C inner housing which leads me to believe it's probably coming in the penetration for the A/C unit.
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Old 07-15-2015, 06:15 AM   #65
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My leak in the curbside rear was from the 4" x 4" cover for the awning, TV antenna, and rear camera wiring. JC replaced that cover (twice) and the leak stopped. They also tightened the AC to the roof, but that was not the problem. When tightening the AC they put some silicone sealant (or something from a tube) on the threads to act as loc-tite.
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Old 07-15-2015, 11:23 AM   #66
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Having originated this thread I greatly appreciate the responses. It appears the leakage problem we are experiencing is not a "one off", but has a frequency of happening. Being one of the unlucky buyers, the knowledge of those of you who have uncovered the genesis of your problem should be helpful in "directing" AS. If I were buying a new, or used car and found that the CarFax reported showed it had been in a flood, or suffered water damage, I would NEVER buy that vehicle. I now have a $150,000 4 month old "new vehicle", already serviced several times for water leakage that was not fixed. 6 months from now, or 1 year from now, or 2 years from now, if I have components rusting or degrading, or mold don't want to have to hire help to fix this issue. Obviously my issue is not a "one off". These issues AS has seen before. Has anyone with this issue been given extended warranty guarantees? This should not be my problem. This monkey is not mine. This monkey belongs on the back of AS, it is a NEW $150,000 vehicle that leaks into many areas of the interior. I need a warranty to cover ANY issues related to this defect. There are lemon laws, etc., but we bought this for fun, enjoyment, relaxation. The last thing we wanted is to have to deal with this!!
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:15 PM   #67
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Here's a source list for all leaks I can think of that can occur:

These are:

1. The AC.
2. The small plastic point of entry plate for the coax and awning wires.
3. The mounting holes for the tank vents and the perimeter of the vents itself (two vents) and the bath vent.
4. The holes for mounting the solar panels.
5. The entry point for the cable from the solar panel.
6. The mounting holes for the mounting hardware for the awning.
7. The mounting holes around the cabin vent and the cutout for it as well.
8. The holes for the mounting hardware for the TV antenna.

I also, on occasion, have seen a drip or two from the rear door center area during a downpour. This is a MB issue, not Airstream. Probably poor weatherstripping.

The common areas that leak that I've either personally experienced or heard about is the AC, coax entry plate, and windows.

The AC is basically a rectangle hole in the roof, and the bottom of the AC has a foam, approximately 1" narrow foam adhesive strip that keeps water from entering the hole. The problem is the van's roof is not flat. So in the corner's, they have to add a bit of Sika221 to keep it from leaking where there is not a water tight connection between roof and the AC. In addition, the lower section pulls down on the upper section with four bolts in each corner, and these must be tight. To cure the issue, add Sika221 where needed, and tighten the bolts.

The coax plate is a really bad design. First of all, it's designed for at most two coax cables. Airstream uses it for five cables, one coax and 4 12vdc wires to the awning. It's very difficult to keep water out because the plate is simply not designed for that many wires in the first place, and it is very hard to use enough Sika221 to seal off all the wires in the short distance they enter the plate. It also has about nine or so mounting holes, any one of which can leak. I replaced it with a weatherproof, plastic electrical junction box and water tight connections, with a foundation of Sika221 under and around the base, and on top, and used waterproof liquid tight tubing and connections and then used waterproof electrical mastic tape on the end of that as well to close off the tube. It rained a record amount last week and not a drop came inside.

It was quite a job. If you aren't inclined to do that, then get a tube of Sikaflex221 and apply generously, with particular emphasis on the area where the wires exit the plate. You could also wrap waterproof electrical mastic tape where they exit for several inches.

The AC is cured by tightening the hold down bolts and applying a bit of Sika221 to the ribs where the pad is not flat.

The other areas besides the windows are cured by generous amounts of Sika221.

The two tank vents also can leak because of the use (or correctly, overuse) of power drills that can crack the flat surface that sits on the roof. While these can be covered up with Sikaflex221 (and likely is), because they will flex, leaks could later develop. The only cure for that is replacement (I had one with that issue as well), although it had not leaked).

The only other source of leaks are the windows, which can be installed poorly, not square, or with the gasket out of place. They have to be removed and replaced. They don't use any sealants other than a gasket. I also had a leak in the window as have others (the common one is the sliding door). It took two attempts to repair. The first time the dealer replaced, but it continued to leak. The next time at JC, it was again removed and replaced with a new gasket. Apparently, JC parts had sent the wrong gasket to the dealer.

If you have any leaks, carefully inspect these areas. More than likely, it will be one listed here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 73shark View Post
Mine is coming out the A/C inner housing which leads me to believe it's probably coming in the penetration for the A/C unit.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:30 AM   #68
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Here's a source list for all leaks I can think of that can occur:

.....
The OP has a new Interstate, but for any T1N owners following this discussion, add:

9. The sixteen additional holes associated with the roof rack. It is important to check each one of them individually because the roof of the Sprinter doesn't seem to be the best configuration for the rack that was installed. Sometimes a screw penetrates a flat roof area while the one next to it will be screwed into a roof rib. It makes for a rather catywampus final assembly and the height differences between flat area and adjacent rib area causes that leg of the rack to be NOT the flush-mounted installation that you might expect (can't think of a good way to describe this).

FWIW, if Airstream installs its A/C units more or less like MB does, it would be prudent to be on the look-out for leak problems regardless of model year. I took our Interstate to a local MB dealership a while back and there were almost-new Sprinters (ambulances, RVs, law enforcement vehicles, people-movers, etc.) lined up down the service entrance area. I asked, "Why so many in one day?" and the CSR replied, "It rained yesterday. This happens every time we get a good rain following a relatively dry period." He went on to explain that the sealant being used around the A/C mounting area didn't work well in our southern climate.
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:56 PM   #69
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Here's a non-obvious leak that I had in my '05 Interstate:

Our friends at JC forgot to tighten the clamp around the plastic tube where it connects to the freshwater vent near the gravity fill port. As a consequence, whenever we fully-filled the tank, water would back up into the tube and then leak into the insulation behind the interior wall. Hours later, it would end up on the floor.

Took a while to figure that one out.
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Old 07-16-2015, 02:02 PM   #70
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I just don't think it is helpful for former Airstream owners (or others) to come on this board and preach about how THOR should do business. It is THOR's business and they can do it however they feel whether it costs them past, present or future customers.
Except that some of us genuinely care about the Airstream brand. We were PROUD to own our Interstate, despite its many issues. We would love to own one again, and it makes us very sad that this currently does not appear to be a rational choice. I don't see why this is not a sentiment worthy of expression.
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