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Old 02-15-2015, 10:15 PM   #41
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My dad told me about the redneck way ... Hahaha!!! but I don't want to do it myself and mess her up! We'll probably try it when he comes up to visit.
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:21 AM   #42
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So I wrote the dealership and they said it shouldn't be done on my airstream interstate. Here is the email:

"Good morning,
After discussing the installation of skid wheels on a class B we
unfortunately do not have any products that will accommodate your request.
The wheel base is too short, when the skid wheels it the ground there is
potential for the motorhome wheels to come off the ground, bend the frame,
or do damage to the hitch. I apologize about this.
Thanks
"
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:43 AM   #43
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Guess what, there is potential for the wheels to come off the ground anyway without the hitch wheels. You are only doing it so when you scrape at very very low speeds, you will roll imstead of drag. Doesn't mean you are supposed to keep going.

I haven't found the need for this yet but I am a driveway hog and any incline that looks like it could be a dragger is taken at an angle.

I have barely touched twice in 13,xxx miles using this approach. I just looked at my skid pads the other day and didn't even scrape the paint off.
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Old 02-16-2015, 11:25 AM   #44
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Picking up new Interstate Ext. on Friday 13th ;)

I agree with Ron_CA and also try to take steep ramps at an angle when I can at a VERY low speed. I've scrapped the back end about 10 times in 50,000 miles. I also find the dealer's comment interesting because Airstream adds the steel loop skid bars to the hitch as installed on my 2013 EXT model. I'm sure they are still installing these items as seen in photo below. I plan to remove these, cut off the loop and weld on rollers and then reinstall. The rollers will end up at same height as the current skid bars.
Click image for larger version

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Old 02-16-2015, 12:21 PM   #45
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I've seen hitch wheels clamped to the trailer hitch. I'm not near my Interstate at the moment to see whether it's feasible, but this picture shows them clamped under a Great West Vans Legend:
Click image for larger version

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Old 02-16-2015, 02:05 PM   #46
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I've seen hitch wheels clamped to the trailer hitch. I'm not near my Interstate at the moment to see whether it's feasible, but this picture shows them clamped under a Great West Vans Legend:
Attachment 232539
I have to wonder about the utility of those wheels, considering how high they are compared to the bottom of the generator, and the hitch-mounted bar (supplemental bumper?).
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:26 PM   #47
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The AI generator is mounted forward of the spare so as long as you are looking at protection for a ramp, as opposed to a sharp change like a curb, the current loops should provide protection. Not sure why the GWV Legend has the generator so far back. Seems to be very exposed.

Since the AI is unibody, not body on frame, I'd be very careful about putting a lot of upward force on the rear end.
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:44 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKDUDE View Post
I've seen hitch wheels clamped to the trailer hitch. I'm not near my Interstate at the moment to see whether it's feasible, but this picture shows them clamped under a Great West Vans Legend:
Attachment 232539


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

That photo of GWV legend hitch roller is exactly what I intend to do. It almost looks like the same basic part that Airstream uses, except it has a roller rather than a loop of 1/4" steel as a skid.


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Old 02-16-2015, 05:47 PM   #49
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The AI generator is mounted forward of the spare so as long as you are looking at protection for a ramp, as opposed to a sharp change like a curb, the current loops should provide protection. Not sure why the GWV Legend has the generator so far back. Seems to be very exposed.

Since the AI is unibody, not body on frame, I'd be very careful about putting a lot of upward force on the rear end.

I think that is a normal length Sprinter, not an extended. The generator is where the spare would be normally located. I do agree with Protag's comment that the rollers don't make much sense for that geometry.


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Old 02-16-2015, 06:10 PM   #50
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Maybe I'm missing something. I don't see the utility in replacing the loops w/ rollers.
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:46 PM   #51
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Maybe I'm missing something. I don't see the utility in replacing the loops w/ rollers.
If done properly, there would be less friction as the rear end makes contact with the ground (rolling instead of sliding) when you reach the limit of your departure angle. Also less of a grinding noise that would inevitably make the driver wince as his precious expensive vehicle makes contact with the ground someplace other than the tires.

Absolutely not to be used as a wheelie bar for drag racing!
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:20 PM   #52
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Lots of places where you end up scrapping because of that lower trim that Airstream adds. And don't get me started on that crazy low propane fill panel. That black plastic cover is $80. I ripped mine off in Arizona last year and also snapped off the quick connect fitting. [emoji16]
We also cracked our plastic cover, but were fortunate enough to not damage anything inside. When we mentioned this to Airstream, they told us, "Nobody has ever complained about it being too low." BS!!!

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If done properly, there would be less friction as the rear end makes contact with the ground (rolling instead of sliding) when you reach the limit of your departure angle. Also less of a grinding noise that would inevitably make the driver wince as his precious expensive vehicle makes contact with the ground someplace other than the tires.
That awful scraping noise makes us wince, and scares the s*** out of our dogs.
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:23 PM   #53
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That awful scraping noise is warning you to stop before you really damage something. With the rollers, you might keep going and cause some serious damage.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:50 AM   #54
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Maybe I'm missing something. I don't see the utility in replacing the loops w/ rollers.

That's a good point - maybe it's not worth the effort. But then I have a welder and need some more practice. 😄

I've also looked at the air bag assist units now sold by the Sprinter Store. They would allow me to raise the back end up a couple of inches to clear most strapping situations.


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Old 02-21-2015, 08:07 AM   #55
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2400 a year in storage. I would get a quote to fix the driveway and reduce the angle. Might be 5-7 k at most and one time fee.
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