Our Journey Begins - 2018 AI TB Lounge

[wachuko]

Well... swallowing my pride and sharing a mistake I made... when you are drilling the top holes, make sure these are as high as possible while still allowing the bolts to go in. I was concern with that and instead of measuring I made the holes with plenty of clearance from the top... well... this means that I left a 1/4" that I could have raised the assembly...

I went ahead and drilled the holes higher... will use an aluminum strip to cover my mistake and I will never speak of this again...

Still three holes to go... but got that 1/4" back...

[Titus]

I have been wondering how that project was going. Thanks for the update. I assume the side sill that you refer to is the gray plastic trim piece that you cut away, and I can see how the bottom lip on it might hit the hinged plastic lid of the LP box. Is it the bottom lip of the plastic piece that hits the lid of the LP box? If so, I might be tempted to trim that bottom lip, but perhaps that trimming would show too much??? Can you please elaborate on what is 'temporary' about the spacer that you show. If i understand your explanation correctly (and I may not), then you are needing permanent spacers.

I've been doing some more measuring before I start my cutting and drilling... On mine the bottom of the generator is only 1/2" higher than the bottom of the LP box and the bottom of the generator exhaust pipe bracket and the bottom the generator resonator I installed is only 1" higher. So raising the LP box by the 3" only gains me 1/2" before I hit something else. So I am re-thinking the project. Seems like a lot of work to only gain 1/2". Is your next-to-hit place more than 1/2" higher than original location of the LP box?

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Titus

I have been wondering how that project was going. Thanks for the update. I assume the side sill that you refer to is the gray plastic trim piece that you cut away, and I can see how the bottom lip on it might hit the hinged plastic lid of the LP box. Is it the bottom lip of the plastic piece that hits the lid of the LP box? If so, I might be tempted to trim that bottom lip, but perhaps that trimming would show too much??? Can you please elaborate on what is 'temporary' about the spacer that you show. If i understand your explanation correctly (and I may not), then you are needing permanent spacers.

I've been doing some more measuring before I start my cutting and drilling... On mine the bottom of the generator is only 1/2" higher than the bottom of the LP box and the bottom of the generator exhaust pipe bracket and the bottom the generator resonator I installed is only 1" higher. So raising the LP box by the 3" only gains me 1/2" before I hit something else. So I am re-thinking the project. Seems like a lot of work to only gain 1/2". Is your next-to-hit place more than 1/2" higher than original location of the LP box?

First off... Now that I am almost done with this... this is a very easy modification... You just need to take your time. And the only part of it where you need to be careful is with the bottom cut as you get to where the quick disconnect port is.

Of course, drilling the holes as well... do not let the drill bit go in all the way, just do it enough for it to make the hole on the bracket.

Back to your point on the cover. The side sill is the silver trim that I cut out first... the one that I will install a stainless steel piano hinge.

If you do not use spacers the black cover from the LP assembly will hit the sill and not allow it to close completely... here take a look (exaggerated condition since I could not hold everything in place while taking the photo, but hopefully you get the idea).

With a small 1/2" spacer, everything fits perfectly. So why make it any more complicated??

First photo is without spacers, second with spacers in place (and tighten). No spacers, the black cover would have pushed out the outside silver cover by 1/2" in the bottom...

By temporary spacer I mean that I want to buy some 1/2 aluminum stock to sandwich between the plates instead of what you see in the photo. It was suggested that I do that to make it a solid install... using the spacers you see in the photo could lead to fulcrum reaction when pressure is applied (or something to that effect...)

As to raising it that additional 1/4"... I just wanted it to be as highest as possible with this approach... unsure of what else will hit first after this... I know that the next thing I need to look at modifying is the exhaust of the generator... need to relocate it...

Hope that it all makes sense... and again... this is not a difficult modification after all...

[Titus]

I understand - thanks for the clarification. Appears that you could have staggered the bolt holes - if you didn't want that last 1/4" - to help reduce any twisting that might be tempted to occur. I am taking it as a given that the next lowest place (the bottom of the generator) cannot be moved. (Though creative person that you are, you may take that up as a challenge.)

So I have to decide on the overall benefit on raising the LP box. I can see how it might hit, but the generator not hit, if I cut a corner too sharp and take the right rear wheels up over a curb.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Titus

I understand - thanks for the clarification. Appears that you could have staggered the bolt holes - if you didn't want that last 1/4" - to help reduce any twisting that might be tempted to occur. I am taking it as a given that the next lowest place (the bottom of the generator) cannot be moved. (Though creative person that you are, you may take that up as a challenge.)

So I have to decide on the overall benefit on raising the LP box. I can see how it might hit, but the generator not hit, if I cut a corner too sharp and take the right rear wheels up over a curb.

We have had fellow forum members take it out ... I wanted to avoid that experience.

Moving the generator? I like challenges, but that is one I am not willing to take!!

[wachuko]

At the end of all this I will be able to tell you how to do this correctly and avoid all the issues I had because I did not plan it well and jump on it with little thought...

You need 5 - 1/8"x3/4"x11" aluminum pieces... one you will make a line 1/4" from the border all the way down and there you will mark the holes... you can then use that as a template to mark and drill the holes on the bracket... use that template also to drill the holes on the other 4 pieces... those four pieces are what you will use as spacers... All holes will be perfectly aligned (and not look like they are doing the wave) and you will not have to work so hard at mounting it... trust me on this one...

Anyway... LP control panel relocated... all that is left is to install the hinge and door/sill...

When I went to buy some of the stainless steel bolts I saw some chrome trim... for 8.95, I figured I will give it a try...

[wachuko]

And you know what is the kicker? I have a milling machine in the garage... that I used AFTER, to get the spacers to match that wave of holes

I could have done this with perfectly aligned holes... son of a gun...

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

At the end of all this I will be able to tell you how to do this correctly and avoid all the issues I had because I did not plan it well and jump on it with little thought...

WACHUKO - first of all, this is great work and for all of us to benefit later. You probably have heard of the phrase "bike porn" in the cycling forums you been too. Well, your mod pics are "RV Porn" ! WOO-Hoo!

PS: Based on my measurements, I may not be able to avail of all your nice work, guess what's in the way? Yep, your fav option the levelers. But all is not lost, my body guy still has options but much more work in terms of fabricating panels, instead of using existing like yours.. But he said it's doable, so we'll see.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Titus

I understand - thanks for the clarification. Appears that you could have staggered the bolt holes - if you didn't want that last 1/4" - to help reduce any twisting that might be tempted to occur. I am taking it as a given that the next lowest place (the bottom of the generator) cannot be moved. (Though creative person that you are, you may take that up as a challenge.)

So I have to decide on the overall benefit on raising the LP box. I can see how it might hit, but the generator not hit, if I cut a corner too sharp and take the right rear wheels up over a curb.

Both of my damaged LP Fill Cover incidents were caused by objects that did not hit/damage the generator. First was a large pavement edge drop-off in an off road parking area that was only a little wider than the rear duals on LH side. Second was ice in frozen snow bank that damaged cover but not generator as I backed into a parking spot.

However I know what you mean about the generator being a low point. I'm looking at that as I move forward and there might be enough room to raise the generator about 1" in the mounting frame. I haven't looked at it close enough to be sure. I plan to drop generator again anyway to add some sound deadening and absorber washers so I'll try to raise generator at that time if I can.

I got a motorcycle/ATV lift at HF when I installed the rear air bags. It makes dropping the generator really easy.

Now I need to start gathering the parts needed for all these mods. This will be my summer project as we are not traveling for a few months while DW recovers from knee surgery.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by wachuko

We have had fellow forum members take it out ... I wanted to avoid that experience.



Moving the generator? I like challenges, but that is one I am not willing to take!!

Great work wachuko!!

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

Based on my measurements, I may not be able to avail of all your nice work, guess what's in the way? Yep, your fav option the levelers. But all is not lost, my body guy still has options but much more work in terms of fabricating panels, instead of using existing like yours.. But he said it's doable, so we'll see.

From this photo, looks like it works even with the jack in there... but might just be the angle of the photo...

You are only moving it up in its location... but I don’t have that jack to compare

[Boom23]

Great job! You're working through the complications, which is what's important.

I'm overseas and my internet is not that great, but I posted before a couple of links of silver (not shiny chrome) trim pieces. These pieces might not stand out as shiny chrome does.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Boom23

Great job! You're working through the complications, which is what's important.

I'm overseas and my internet is not that great, but I posted before a couple of links of silver (not shiny chrome) trim pieces. These pieces might not stand out as shiny chrome does.

Chrome trim was impulse buy... just to see what it looked like. I will change it with silver trim (from the links you provided earlier)...

[Alex AVI]

MIKE, WACHUKO - this sucks the big pod I haven't even raised the LPG box, now I gotta raise the gen. And since the levelers are also at same lowest point, but I know I can't raise those. Ugghh, should've bought a 4x4. Ummm, no I can't coz then even if I slam the VB Air, I will scrape the top of A/C on garage door. Ummm, wait, maybe it won't scrape if I get Advanced RV's quieter and lower profile A/C.

Hiding bank & visa statements from DW now

Just the angle WACHUKO - enough room up & down but the hoses, have to figure out way to route them away from the moving legs somehow, I do not have ability to shorten them.

[wachuko]

This was easy thanks to John's photos and instructions. Woohoo!!

From this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...on-163027.html


Removed the four screws. I cut one side of the dowels and the other side just slid out...

Drillied a hole to relocated the light. Pulled the wires from the cabinet side to avoid any extra wires next to the heater.

Vent just bolts in place... it is a perfect fit. Slide cabinet and you are done!

[Alex AVI]

Nice job! Everything matches, just like it should've come out from AS

Just a curious question - obviously this helps remove all the heat for ref to work efficiently but that heat is still inside the AI. Seeing your interior pics, I can only assume inside mine is similarly done & access to/from outside is pretty visible. Can I have an exhaust port also, like with water heater? Don't get me wrong, I am in no way even dreaming of boring a new hole on my AI body, at least not until all the warranty is over. But at some point, I may be brave enough to risk it few years later

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

Nice job! Everything matches, just like it should've come out from AS

Just a curious question - obviously this helps remove all the heat for ref to work efficiently but that heat is still inside the AI. Seeing your interior pics, I can only assume inside mine is similarly done & access to/from outside is pretty visible. Can I have an exhaust port also, like with water heater? Don't get me wrong, I am in no way even dreaming of boring a new hole on my AI body, at least not until all the warranty is over. But at some point, I may be brave enough to risk it few years later

I see no reason why you could not do the side vent now... two holes join then with jig saw... bolt louver in place and be done... There is no warranty risk there...

If you have the fan on, or the A/C on... with some air movement you should have at least some fresh air circulation to keep temps in check...

I am thinking, if it makes sense, to have a fan as an extractor... to force the circulation... easy to accomplish with those USB (or computer) units...just need one with very little current draw... plenty of space to install it from the inside over the vent hole...

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-M...ywords=usb+fan

[wachuko]

Also took the time to replace the magnetic switch on the rear top cabinet... this is the one that controls the light inside that rear cabinet. Light would not come on unless you tapped the heck out of the switch... Airstream had sent me a new switch awhile back and was just sitting on the desk waiting its turn...

So...

Rear cabinet light switch installed/replaced. Light working fine now.
Fridge vent installed.
Second row passenger seat now swivels both ways.
LP assembly raised.
Hammer and pliers now in toolbag
King mattress ordered - but I know that at the end of the day, we will end up with individual 2" self-inflating mats... they are just better than the air mattress...just need the wife to be convinced of this...

Left from the list:

• Make lid out of side sill cutout. I have the stainless steel piano hinge...This is in progress and hoping to finish it tomorrow...
• Reroute the generator exhaust.
• Elongated toilet –Dometic 321 Series Low Profile Toilet
• Rear shelve with matching TB laminate – link to what John did...
• Screen room/house - earlier post - link to the one I am looking at...
• Prime Design - Rear Door Access Ladder . Don’t care that the wife does not like the looks of it… I want the rear (door mounted) ladder… She is not the one having to clean the solar panels and having to drag the ladder out every time I clean them…
• Tension rods for the fridge - Amazon link
• Tool cabinets liners - these are to wrap the bottles in the bar to avoid rattles/noise - Amazon link
• Switch for Fusion head unit
• Switch for propane valve
• Install the ShowerMi$er
• Redo the cover of the foldable bed. I need to round the corners that I forgot to do and are damaging the vinyl. Will recover each piece of wood panel separately in a different material (cloth and beige color). Got everything that I need for this task.
• Buy and install a drain valve for the fresh water tank (suggestion from Protagonist) to replace the plug currently there.
• Order or get locally, viper alarm system - this will have to wait for now...
• Self-leveling system... due to cost, this will take awhile, but keeping it on the list. There are less costly alternatives like Bullseye system that I could install myself (if they can get their s* together and have all the parts available for shipping)

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

I see no reason why you could not do the side vent now... two holes join then with jig saw... bolt louver in place and be done... There is no warranty risk there...

So while using your pics, there is actually lots of room from inside perspective to have a small port, I just looked at the outside R/S body panels around the outdoor shower & tank valve controls; the best place aesthethically would be exactly behind ref. So between tank valve controls and rear fender arch. OK, still not too bad

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

So while using your pics, there is actually lots of room from inside perspective to have a small port, I just looked at the outside R/S body panels around the outdoor shower & tank valve controls; the best place aesthethically would be exactly behind ref. So between tank valve controls and rear fender arch. OK, still not too bad

Got lost there for a minute... This is for the fridge vent, correct? You are thinking of venting to the outside via exiting port or making something??

I was just taking about placing a side vent in the cabinet... similar to what Airstream did on the TB edition.