Our Journey Begins - 2018 AI TB Lounge

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Another mod that I wanted to do on mine to make it more comfortable to sleep... side trim on rear side seats sticks out more than it should and makes it a pita to sleep..

WACHUKO - You are like a mind reader. So happy you posted this. Felt same way about the side trim. Was going to try figure this out later, but now, all I gotta do is follow your pics. You such a time saver for a lot of us. THANK YOU

[wachuko]

Wanted to add this here.... following what John did...

Originally Posted by Pahaska

Modifying the jump-seat ends ...

I took off the UltraLeather cover. Seemed like 10,000 staples (I think Airstream must pay by the staple.

There was some thin foam wrapped around the 1/2" wood. More staples to pull and I peeled that back. I used my bandsaw to cut off about 1 1/2" of wood. No need to be super accurate with the cut. I cut a piece of scrap foam to go on top of the wood to bring it to the original shape and re-wrapped the original foam. I stapled the cover back on, but not the large number of staples that were there originally.

The appearance was the same, but the feel was a lot better.

[wachuko]

That is strange... I could swear reading a post from John (Pahaska)... can't see it now...

It was about him also looking into the LP assembly location and thinking of placing it even higher... where did that post go????

But to comment on his ghost post...

Not easy to go higher... too many structural carp in the way...

I will be happy with just raising it behind the sill... and it is such an easy modification. That sill/body kit is just held in place with a couple of bolts. It is not attached to anything on the right side that goes behind the mud flap... just one cut, one stainless steel piano hinge and you got yourself a door/cover. I can get some door protection trim in silver to cover the cuts and voila! There is still the matter of keeping it close when traveling, I was planing on using some of the magnets I have... epoxy a metal plate on the inside to that the door will stay put... that or using some rubber/elastic contraption that will keep it close...

[wachuko]

Showermi$er ordered. Not sure when I will tackle the install, but want to have it here ready to go...

Searching for 8"-10" stainless steel piano hinge... so I don't have to cut it... I might just do this over the weekend if I have all the parts here and the rain stops!!!

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

LP remote fill/panel assembly relocation...

This should be easier than I thought...

WACHUKO - you will definitely beat me to this. That was exactly what my brain wants to do, down to the cutting of skirt/trim. But I do not have the body work skills to attempt this. So, I am on hold for my friend who is a pro body fabricator to do it all for me, hoping by fall when his work is usually slowing down. I showed him your pics, one thing he recommends is take the extra time to remove the skirting so you can cut straight on a table saw. He says, that way you may only need to paint touchup the edges instead of needing to add edge trimming. Or you can do what AS did for hitch cover, but requires building up the sides of trim. Can't wait for your finished product 👍

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

WACHUKO - you will definitely beat me to this. That was exactly what my brain wants to do, down to the cutting of skirt/trim. But I do not have the body work skills to attempt this. So, I am on hold for my friend who is a pro body fabricator to do it all for me, hoping by fall when his work is usually slowing down. I showed him your pics, one thing he recommends is take the extra time to remove the skirting so you can cut straight on a table saw. He says, that way you may only need to paint touchup the edges instead of needing to add edge trimming. Or you can do what AS did for hitch cover, but requires building up the sides of trim. Can't wait for your finished product ��

I will remove it to make the cut. I can see myself messing it up if I left it in place while cutting It is just a few screws and it comes off. And the cut is going to be next to where one of the supports is... so no need to modify the existing support either. I will stop by ACE or Lowes this afternoon after work to get the piano hinge. If the cut is such that a trim piece is not needed, I will do just that, paint it. It will all depend on how it looks without the edge trim.

Would love to follow John's approach, but I can't seem to have the space to do that...

Originally Posted by Pahaska

When I am at Alumapalooza, I will buy a door and frame like on the dump hose area as shown in the first drawing. As you can see in the drawings, it is already shaped and the right size to go in the skirting behind the rear wheel, located as in the second drawing.

I will either move or eliminate the TV outlet. I will probably move it behind the AC outlet if wires are long enough. I really have no interest in outside TV, so it doesn't matter if I eliminate it.

Once I have the framed door, it will be simple to move the propane plumbing up behind it. I can improvise a way to keep excessive dirt off of it.

I'll even have a lockable access to the propane fill area, by default.

[wachuko]

A few photos...

Following what John did... cutting 1-1/2" off the side trim on the seats and adding foam to it....

[wachuko]

And took the panel behind the bathroom sink to check... wanted to see how much space is available for the install of the Showermi$er . Surprised to see how close the wall is to the bathroom shell... so not too many places to install it...

Makes me wonder (and I will have to confirm this) if the other side is the same situation... I was planning on a cutout with the recessed panel insert to have the additional clearance for the elongated toilet...if the wall is that close, I might not be able to use the recessed panel I ordered...

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Would love to follow John's approach, but I can't seem to have the space to do that...

I have loads of space in that area and I have no plans for extra batteries. So much space that I was even thinking about designing some sort of swing arm that would raise and lower the plumbing.

I'm guessing that my propane plumbing will be about the same height as you are proposing since the door will be installed on the section that you want to hinge.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

And took the panel behind the bathroom sink to check... wanted to see how much space is available for the install of the Showermi$er . Surprised to see how close the wall is to the bathroom shell... so not too many places to install it...

From what I see on their parts pics, the diverter and short return plumbing is external. You do need to bore a hole for the return line. But due to our faucet combo shower head, you need to run a line from the hot water line to punch through the wall in order to connect to diverter and return from diverter back to connect to shower pullout hose. The issue I find is the cold return line has to go all the way back to the non-pressurized side (i.e. before pump) for this to work. Are you going to run this return under the chassis?

An alternative (if it makes running the cold return line easier). Would it be better to do this from the kitchen galley lines? Since the whole idea is to have the loop charged with circulating water to keep water heater on, it does not matter where the system is taking the cold return from. OF course down side is one has to turn it on prior to getting in the bathroom. But it may be an easier install?

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

From what I see on their parts pics, the diverter and short return plumbing is external. You do need to bore a hole for the return line. But due to our faucet combo shower head, you need to run a line from the hot water line to punch through the wall in order to connect to diverter and return from diverter back to connect to shower pullout hose. The issue I find is the cold return line has to go all the way back to the non-pressurized side (i.e. before pump) for this to work. Are you going to run this return under the chassis?

An alternative (if it makes running the cold return line easier). Would it be better to do this from the kitchen galley lines? Since the whole idea is to have the loop charged with circulating water to keep water heater on, it does not matter where the system is taking the cold return from. OF course down side is one has to turn it on prior to getting in the bathroom. But it may be an easier install?

I will have to drill two holes in the bathroom wall for the install. As to the routing of the lines, have not given it much thought ... on my list of things to do, but not top on the list. I am going to tackle the LP setup and the side trim on the rear seats first. I do want to keep it simple in terms of usage of the Showermiser, so if that means that it complicates routing of lines then that is fine. I am also trying to understand how it works when connected to the city water... I guess that it will fill fresh water tank until temp is reached and I twist the handle... need to look at the diagram again.

On other news... got a hinge... proof of concept is looking good...

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by wachuko

On other news... got a hinge... proof of concept is looking good...

So nice !! Just remember measure 10x, cut twice

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

So nice !! Just remember measure 10x, cut twice

[wachuko]

Their FAQ had the answer to my question...

(A) If you are in a camp ground with “Full Hookups” and you continue to use the SHOWERMI$ER at some point the fresh water tank will become full. When this happens you have two choices:

Stop using the SHOWERMI$ER as the fresh water tank will over flow on to the ground through the breath hole on the water tank.
Turn off the “City Water” and turn on your water pump to start using up the accumulated that normally would have been wasted. After a day or two of washing dishes and taking showers there will be plenty of room in the tank to continue SHOWERMI$ER use.

[toskeysam]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Their FAQ had the answer to my question...

I have a question....observation...whatever... If you do hookup the return line to upstream side of the pump......I would expect to see “priming” issues when you dewinterize. Unless you were to take the return line all the way to the freshwater tank......hmmmmmmm.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by toskeysam

I have a question....observation...whatever... If you do hookup the return line to upstream side of the pump......I would expect to see “priming” issues when you dewinterize. Unless you were to take the return line all the way to the freshwater tank......hmmmmmmm.

Yes. Very good point. I will plan on taking it to the fresh tank.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by toskeysam

I have a question....observation...whatever... If you do hookup the return line to upstream side of the pump......I would expect to see “priming” issues when you dewinterize. Unless you were to take the return line all the way to the freshwater tank......hmmmmmmm.

Pretty sure their install is to go all the way to freshwater tank. I am not sure it would have a priming problem; provided when you prime during de-winterize, you have to close the AquaView valve (just a fancy shower diverter valve). So that closes that return path during priming. Though I don't think that matters anyway based on water path. However, I am a lousy plumber. I get all wet before I get any plumbing project finished. So, the expert plumbers here can probably say for sure based on diagram below
12 - fresh tank
14 - pump
18 - hot water heater
36' - cold return line



Also, one thing AquaView does not say is in order to keep the continuous hot water heater from turning off, it needs to see water flow. So, the longer you have the valve in re-circulate mode, the more the fresh water tank becomes a hot water tank. So basically, the way they are selling this is just like my home hot water recirculating pump. And they are combining our fresh water tank and continuous hot water heater into a big hot water holding tank. What happens when you want cold water out of galley? Good news is once you turn off valve, fresh water tank loses heat fast. Also, will use up more propane.

[toskeysam]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

Pretty sure their install is to go all the way to freshwater tank. I am not sure it would have a priming problem; provided when you prime during de-winterize, you have to close the AquaView valve (just a fancy shower diverter valve). So that closes that return path during priming. However, I am a lousy plumber. I get all wet before I get any plumbing project finished. So, the our expert plumbers can probably say for sure based on diagram below
12 - fresh tank
14 - pump
18 - hot water heater
36' - cold return line

Attachment 311313

Also, one thing AquaView does not say is in order to keep the continuous hot water heater from turning off, it needs to see water flow. So, the longer you have the valve in re-circulate mode, the more the fresh water tank becomes a hot water tank (when used in non-hookup mode). So basically, the way they are selling this is just like my home hot water recirculating pump. And they are combining our fresh water tank and continuous hot water heater into a big hot water holding tank. What happens when you want cold water out of galley? Good news is once you turn off valve, fresh water tank loses heat fast. Also, will use up more propane.

Yep. Diagram answered my question. And good point about warming up the freshwater tank. As with most systems....we gotta pay attention or unintended consequences will surface.

[wachuko]

Got the foam... next, cut wood panel and reassemble...

[Alex AVI]

WACHUKO - can't sleep when gerbils running around my head. How about some wacky outside-the-box options:

If you don't want to do the AquaView loop from galley, run cold water return (line 36') to an outside C/S water port. Run temp. external line from there back to R/S fresh water fill port. Not a built-in, but easier than trying to see how you can run cold water return line back across via interior. If boondocking, will keep all your fresh water tank unwasted. If connected to city water, you may still fill up your fresh water tank. But you can also just run the C/S cold water return line into a clean potable water container. If boondocking, you still conserve fresh water tank. If city water, you won't overfill your fresh water tank.

Unless you get lucky & find way to fish a line under floor across, your only other option is down through the floor, out the underbelly, and across to tank.

Kinda wacky McGyver solution, but now I can sleep