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Old 09-14-2012, 12:27 PM   #29
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Hey Russ, I had this product put on my windshield and side windows on the doors. It REALLY works!
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...20Brochure.pdf
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Very interesting! Did you use this on the front door windows, the already factory dark tinted windows in the living area, or both? I'm curious to hear how well it works when putting it behind the dark tint that is already on the living area windows. I'm also curious if using it on the front door windows would limit the amount of interior reflection that restricts your outward vision, I'm hopping it is much better than what I have now. I had my front door glass tinted with a standard 3m automotive tint shortly after we bought the coach last year. I am very happy with the amount of heat it blocks out, but not so happy with either the reduced vision through the glass in general due simply to the decreased light transmittance (most notable when trying to back up using the side mirrors at night) or more annoyingly the amount of glare that reflects back from it when there is bright sun lighting up the interior, particularly if you have a cup in the top dash board cup holder in the bright sunlight. For me that dash cup holder location reflects back right in the side glass when you are trying to see out of the side mirror. Wonder if your stuff would work better??
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:28 PM   #30
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The one time I forgot to prime mine, I noticed a huge difference in how long I had to let the generator crank until it started. In fact, without priming, the generator cranked long enough without starting for a warning light to come on (four blinks - cranking time exceeded 35 seconds).
How long do you hold the prime button before starting?
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:09 AM   #31
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How long do you hold the prime button before starting?
Not long, 10~15 seconds maybe. Never actually timed it.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:28 PM   #32
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I would hope the moderator could move this thread on window tinting out of the oman generator thread.
Anyways, Russ tinted the windshield and both the passengers and drivers door. These were done with a darker tint than the windshield. The windshield was the lightest choice. The delta-t coming off the windsheild is very significant. The reflectance of items on the dash is virtually nonexistent. Probably because the low tint percentage on the windshield is a factor. The glare on a clear day is no longer a factor for my old-eyes. Of the intensity of a drive to the east in the morning has to be dealt with, but it is much easier. The L/H-R/H-F doors are darker but very manageable to see out of at night and have minimal visual impairment by interior reflection. Remember the nature of the darker tinted window is to reflect. last years trip to Canada, the windshield was not tinted. This years trip to Grand Canyon+, I noted a much higher comfort level with the tinting of the windshield.
I have not done any additional tinting to the coach windows. I suppose it might make a difference, but for only 1 major trip a year, the cost vs.the potential gains are not on my radar screen.
i am uncomfortable with any liquid/cups sitting that high on the dash. One screw up, puts liquid potentially into dash-electrics. I stow my thermal-cup in the door pocket. If a spillage occurs, and it will, it just goes into the door bin and leaks out.....no electric's involved. I own a Mercedes/BMW/Mini repair shop. I see what liquid spillage does to automotive electronics.....its not pretty. I learn from others mistakes.
Hope you guys are getting some of this rain in Norman. We are fortunate, got 1.9 inches over the past couple of days over here in eastern Oklahoma.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:43 PM   #33
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Talked w/ Jim Parrett the other day and among other things, he said that 1) When checking genset oil level, remove dipstick and wipe off and re-insert and screw in and remove to check level and 2) The "Prime" switch is for gasoline fueled gensets. The propane line to the genset is charged as long as the propane switch is on.

While I was dreading crawling under to check the oil, found out the hardest part was getting the service panel out. Tended to be stuck by the weatherstripping. I gained a little extra clearance by pulling in the driveway just so the rear tires were up on the end of the drive. That way the genset is over the storm gutter. Since someone had mentioned previously about the drain plug being above the genset exhaust pipe, I checked and mine was not obstructed. At 12.5 hours, it still registered full.
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #34
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"Talked w/ Jim Parrett the other day and among other things, he said that 1) When checking genset oil level, remove dipstick and wipe off and re-insert and screw in and remove to check level and 2) The "Prime" switch is for gasoline fueled gensets. The propane line to the genset is charged as long as the propane switch is on."

Hmmmm, I have a lot of faith in Jim but, from page 21 of the Onan manual for my model 2.5KVFA26120L generator:
"1. Unscrew the oil fill cap and wipe off the dipstick (Figure 10). Reinsert the dipstick, but do not screw the cap down. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level on the dipstick." Bold emphasis is in the book.

The manual also cautions "Too much oil can cause high consumption....."

I've used the method in the book to no ill effect AFAIK.

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Old 10-20-2012, 09:57 AM   #35
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Yeah, my manual and the diagram on the unit both showed that you were not supposed to screw it back down - just put it in and pull it back out. I believe my lawn mower is the same way, for comparison.
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:19 PM   #36
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I mentioned to Jim that my Honda lawnmower specified not screwing it down and he didn't back down. My manual says the same thing.

It's obvious that propane burns a lot cleaner since the oil looked like it just came out of the bottle.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:39 PM   #37
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The one time I forgot to prime mine, I noticed a huge difference in how long I had to let the generator crank until it started. In fact, without priming, the generator cranked long enough without starting for a warning light to come on (four blinks - cranking time exceeded 35 seconds).
FWIW: My rig has the propane 2.5KVA Onan. Assuming that the Prime button was for use only with the gas fueled version of the generator I have NEVER used the Prime function. Being the curious sort, I have spoken to the service departments for 3 different Cummins/Onan dealerships and they all say the same thing: the Prime button has NO EFFECT with propane generators. For gas generators the Prime button runs a small electric fuel pump in the generator. With the propane version, the fuel is under pressure so there is no need to "Prime" the system and the wire for the Prime switch goes nowhere. The techs I spoke to were all familar with these Onan RV generators, both the propane and the gas versions. I'm inclined to believe them.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:12 PM   #38
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Being the curious sort, I have spoken to the service departments for 3 different Cummins/Onan dealerships and they all say the same thing: the Prime button has NO EFFECT with propane generators.
I had completely forgotten about this thread.

I'm inclined to believe them, too. What they say makes sense. And a recent re-reading of the owner's manual failed to turn up any reference to priming, for either the gasoline or propane models. It does say that the generator will run best if the propane tank is at least half full, since that provides adequate vapor pressure to keep the generator fed, but that has nothing at all to do with the "prime" switch.

But that doesn't change the fact that— in my own limited experience only— the generator has started easier if I held the "prime" switch for a few seconds first. I can't explain why, since it obviously has no mechanical effect. Some imp of the perverse, I guess. Won't be the first time I've been sure of a "fact" that was later proven wrong. Sadly, it probably won't be the last, either.

Whenever it happens again, feel free to show me the error of my ways. That's what friends are for.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:16 PM   #39
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But that doesn't change the fact that— in my own limited experience only— the generator has started easier if I held the "prime" switch for a few seconds first. I can't explain why, since it obviously has no mechanical effect. Some imp of the perverse, I guess.

Curious for sure. Placebo effect? It would be interesting to try several starts without prime. With mine, the length of time since the gen was last started "seems" to relate to how long it takes to start.

Won't be the first time I've been sure of a "fact" that was later proven wrong. Sadly, it probably won't be the last, either.
Whenever it happens again, feel free to show me the error of my ways. That's what friends are for.

Well, at 72 I've probably been wrong before at least once; but I can't remember for sure. In any case, that's why we're all here, to learn about the mysterious ways of our machines.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:03 AM   #40
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I had completely forgotten about this thread.

I'm inclined to believe them, too. What they say makes sense. And a recent re-reading of the owner's manual failed to turn up any reference to priming, for either the gasoline or propane models. It does say that the generator will run best if the propane tank is at least half full, since that provides adequate vapor pressure to keep the generator fed, but that has nothing at all to do with the "prime" switch.

But that doesn't change the fact that— in my own limited experience only— the generator has started easier if I held the "prime" switch for a few seconds first. I can't explain why, since it obviously has no mechanical effect. Some imp of the perverse, I guess. Won't be the first time I've been sure of a "fact" that was later proven wrong. Sadly, it probably won't be the last, either.

Whenever it happens again, feel free to show me the error of my ways. That's what friends are for.
Hey we all get one goof-up a year.

I vote for the placebo effect cuz after reading your first post about priming, I thought it helped also. Probably just the engineer in us that makes us want to believe it does something or it wouldn't be there. FWIW, I covered "Prime" up on mine.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:18 PM   #41
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Fuel Mileage

Does anyone have actuate MPG and at what highways speeds for the 3500 yet.
Has anyone found the peak MPH to drive for long distance for best economy?
Any Issues with this 3500 I should know about before heading across country?
Thanks
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:18 PM   #42
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Does anyone have actuate MPG and at what highways speeds for the 3500 yet.
Has anyone found the peak MPH to drive for long distance for best economy?
Any Issues with this 3500 I should know about before heading across country?
Thanks
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Welcome to the Air Forums!

There is no one universal "accurate mpg" because it will depend on a lot of different factors: road condition, elevation changes, how much weight you're carrying, whether all of the weight is inside or on a cargo tray, even which direction the wind is blowing, whether you're running the dashboard air conditioner, how much of the drive is through town where you have stop signs and stoplights, whether you've got a leadfoot when accelerating…

The best-ever fuel economy I got was at 55 mph on US-190 west of Baton Rouge, where (briefly) I managed to peak at 19.6 mpg. On longer drives, over different road conditions, and with varying speeds, I typically see 18.2 mpg at some point along the trip, but I also see as low as 17.2 at other points. The very worst long-distance fuel economy I got was in Arkansas, on Scenic Byway 7. Although the speed limit was a low 55 mph, there were so many steep hills and sharp turns necessitating speed changes that my fuel economy dropped to a miserable 14.6 mpg.

I haven't noticed any particular issues with my Interstate as far as driveability is concerned. It's my preferred vehicle for any out-of-town trip, even when I'm not going camping, simply because it's so comfortable to drive long distances.
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