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Old 08-22-2012, 05:57 AM   #15
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What's up with the fresh water drain plug. I had to use a 26mm socket to loosen the plug. Seems like AS could've installed something a little less cumbersome (a handle of some kind would be nice). I would like to modify that. Anybody got any ideas?
Airstream didn't design that; the tank manufacturer did.

Threaded hole for drain plug could be the same size as an oil pan drain plug. If so, check out this link: Welcome to Oil Drain Valve It's a ball valve that screws on in place of an oil drain plug. I thought about getting one for my Interstate's fresh water drain plug, but haven't gotten around to it. When I remove the water tank drain plug for winterizing (if I even winterize this year, Gulf Coast winters are usually mild) I can compare the size to an oil pan drain plug. If they're the same, I might get one of these valves to replace the fresh water drain plug.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:45 AM   #16
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Protagonist: I agree that the drain plug is awkward and have considered the solution you suggest. My concern is that anything used to replace the stock plug will hang down a little lower and the ground clearance on these vans is already pretty low. I would hate to have something break the new drain valve off and damage the tank. I'm still looking for a good solution. By the way, there are several threads on the Sprinter Forum about the Fumoto valve installed to drain engine oil.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #17
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Protagonist: I agree that the drain plug is awkward and have considered the solution you suggest. My concern is that anything used to replace the stock plug will hang down a little lower and the ground clearance on these vans is already pretty low. I would hate to have something break the new drain valve off and damage the tank. I'm still looking for a good solution. By the way, there are several threads on the Sprinter Forum about the Fumoto valve installed to drain engine oil.
Wayne
Drilling and tapping for a new drain on the bottom edge of the rear end of the tank might help. There might be a slight amount of retention with the drain in the new location, which would easily be solved by elevating the front end of the van on leveling blocks before draining the tank.
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:06 PM   #18
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Thanks Protagonist for the tip. I'll give you all an update when I receive/install it. 32.95 plus shipping. Just thought it would've been a nice touch if AS could've supplied something different for the drain plug.
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Old 08-22-2012, 01:11 PM   #19
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Thanks Protagonist for the tip. I'll give you all an update when I receive/install it. 32.95 plus shipping. Just thought it would've been a nice touch if AS could've supplied something different for the drain plug.
Don't get too carried away. I said that I haven't installed a drain valve in place of the drain plug yet, and don't even know if it's the same size as an oil drain plug. So buying one of these valves for your fresh water tank just on my opinion isn't necessarily a good idea.

If you're buying one for the oil pan, that's different.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:58 PM   #20
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The only time I got that slider door beep was when I left slider open with engine running. I think it's an alarm for co2 ( we have never used our awning so could not be that.) Sound went away after stinky exhaust cleared. Previously (not during this incident) our co2 monitor on roof in back of the coach beeped non stop till I unplugged power from the ceiling. Belief from co2 monitor people was that low voltage from low battery triggered it. Still need to reconnect....every time I try beeps!
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:15 PM   #21
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It's been three weeks since I picked up my 2013 Interstate and the beeping sound is still present. I've tried every suggestion listed on the forum, tips from the dealer, and a few of my own ideas... I now have an appointment at Airstream in Jackson Center on September 25. They could not get me in any sooner. Haven't even taken it out for a trip yet and already I'm getting it serviced. There are a couple of dealers in MO (one 30 miles away and the other 200 miles away) I could've gone to but both said I would have to leave it with them for a week for diagnosing the problem and then who knows how long for ordering parts (from Jackson Center). Figured I'd just cut to the chase and drive it 417 miles (834 round trip ... wonder if I could get reimbursed for gas Ha) and get the problem resolved once and for all. I think while I'm there I'll get a different valve installed on the fresh water tank drain. Wish me luck.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:58 PM   #22
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Jackson Center is a nice place to visit. I hope you have a pleasant journey. You should definitely take the 2:00 tour of the factory while you are there.

Good luck!
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:57 PM   #23
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It's been three weeks since I picked up my 2013 Interstate and the beeping sound is still present. I've tried every suggestion listed on the forum, tips from the dealer, and a few of my own ideas... I now have an appointment at Airstream in Jackson Center on September 25. They could not get me in any sooner. Haven't even taken it out for a trip yet and already I'm getting it serviced. There are a couple of dealers in MO (one 30 miles away and the other 200 miles away) I could've gone to but both said I would have to leave it with them for a week for diagnosing the problem and then who knows how long for ordering parts (from Jackson Center). Figured I'd just cut to the chase and drive it 417 miles (834 round trip ... wonder if I could get reimbursed for gas Ha) and get the problem resolved once and for all. I think while I'm there I'll get a different valve installed on the fresh water tank drain. Wish me luck.
Just for future reference:

Shortly after purchasing my trailer 3 years ago, I ran into this "leave the trailer and we'll get to it when we can" BS from the dealer. I immediately called Airstream customer support and said that this was totally unacceptable. With the factory's help, this is the arrangement, the dealer and I have made. If I have work that needs to be done, they tell me when to bring the trailer over at a time they will be able to work on it immediately. I wait while they work on the problem. If they determine they need a part, they order the part and I take the trailer home. When the part comes in they call and we make an appointment for a time when they can install the part and finish the work while I wait.

The dealer's service department lost their arrogant attitude after the factory got involved.

Ken
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:28 PM   #24
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Jim Parrett from Airstream Jackson Center finally returned my call (I left a voice mail on September 4th) regarding the beep. I am so happy to know that he exists. He instructed me to extend the awning, observe the greenish/turquoise rectangular piece of plastic (as you face the curb side exterior) located on the upper left (roof line) where the awning extends from its case. He suggested that underneath this piece of plastic is a white button that is the mechanism that, when depressed, shuts off the safety censor that causes the beep. Also, there is a tiny sliver of metal that touches this rectangular piece, upon retraction of the awning, that could be manipulated (by me or a technician) to ensure closure of the awning therefore silencing the beep. Ok, so I got the ladder out and took a look at that but decided to do the other thing he mentioned instead. Remove fuse number 12 (10amp) underneath the drivers' side fuse box. This is what controls the censor for the step and awning. I have yet to drive the vehicle but will do so tomorrow and hopefully that will have silenced the beep. However, it also means that I will have to pay careful attention to the step/awning retraction before traveling as the safety signal will not make a sound (YEAH). The good thing is that the step and awning still operate. We'll see.
While I had Jim P. on the phone, I inquired about the fresh water tank drain valve and what could be installed to make the job of draining the tank easier. He said the same thing I've heard here on the forum, there is a clearance issue and that is why they picked the threaded piece that secures the holding tank and remains somewhat flush. Also, nothing recommended for the propane fill/shutoff. One customer called in, Jim P. said, and reported that it took 88 revolutions to open the propane door. Sounds like an exaggeration but I'm gonna count next time.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:39 PM   #25
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One customer called in, Jim P. said, and reported that it took 88 revolutions to open the propane door. Sounds like an exaggeration but I'm gonna count next time.
I'm sure it's an exaggeration. I don't think there are even 88 threads on the machine screw that holds the door closed. I think it's about 12 threads to the inch, and you only have to move the head of the machine screw out about an inch and a half to open or close the door.

However, it's hard to turn a screw 360 degrees all in one go because most people's wrists don't rotate through a full 360 degrees, so it may have taken 88 partial revolutions (grip, turn, release, repeat) to get it open. I've never counted the number of turns either.
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #26
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FYI
32 revolutions ( half turns )
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Old 09-13-2012, 06:14 PM   #27
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FYI
32 revolutions ( half turns )
32 half-turns, or 16 full 360 turns, would be just over an inch and a half at 10 threads per inch. I am gratified to see that my estimate was so close to actuality. This time. For once. I shouldn't get used to it, though. Next time I'm likely to be WAY off, as usual.
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #28
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Thanks for the safety signal info...I'll file away for future reference!
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