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Old 06-09-2018, 12:03 AM   #1
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No propane flow

Propane is not flowing to the stove and gen. Tank is 2/3 full according to the lights on the panel and the gauge on the tank. Exterior toggle switch is on, the solenoid is hot to the touch when switch is on and cool when off. So does that mean the switch and solenoid is working? I'm guessing its a regulator problem, I can't seem to find the regulator near the tank. Anyone know the part number or where I can get a replacement besides the dealer?
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Old 06-09-2018, 06:59 AM   #2
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Your profile says you have a 2017 Interstate. It should still be under warranty.

Dealer replaced my LP regulator on a recall. The regulator is under a cover near the shut-off valve on my 2013 model. Yours should be in same location but you will have to remove some metal to get to it.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:32 AM   #3
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Ours is an older unit, so our propane system will differ in some details, but here's a pic showing a general configuration.

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Old 06-09-2018, 11:19 AM   #4
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Your profile says you have a 2017 Interstate. It should still be under warranty.

Dealer replaced my LP regulator on a recall. The regulator is under a cover near the shut-off valve on my 2013 model. Yours should be in same location but you will have to remove some metal to get to it.

What is the warranty period on the Interstate? I know the chassis or anything related to Mercedes is 3yr/36k miles. I thought the Airstream/motor home portion was only one year? I took delivery 8/16 it's been over a year and my dealer is ridiculously backed up I didn't want to leave it there for a few weeks. Although after looking at the location of the regulator I may have to bite the bullet and make an appointment with service.
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Old 06-09-2018, 11:42 AM   #5
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Thereís a preferred dealer program where they are supposed to get to you within 48 hours or something. Someone else might chime in with details. Iím on my phone.
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Old 06-09-2018, 12:56 PM   #6
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On my Avenue, I can tell the valve is opening because I can clearly hear a hollow-metallic-click that is distinct from the "click" of the on/off switch.

If your valve is not located close enough to the switch for you to hear it open, have someone listen near the valve while you operate the switch. If they don't hear the click at the valve, then it may be stuck.

But I agree with others, get it looked at while you have it under warranty. I've never felt my propane solenoid to check for heat, but I don't like that your's is hot to the touch.
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Old 06-09-2018, 06:04 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dapolrbear View Post
What is the warranty period on the Interstate? I know the chassis or anything related to Mercedes is 3yr/36k miles. I thought the Airstream/motor home portion was only one year? I took delivery 8/16 it's been over a year and my dealer is ridiculously backed up I didn't want to leave it there for a few weeks. Although after looking at the location of the regulator I may have to bite the bullet and make an appointment with service.

Airstream warranty is also 3 years/36,000 miles. Getting at the regulator is not an easy tasks and best left to someone familiar with working on LP systems. Also as others have mentioned you should be able to hear the modest "klunk" sound when you turn on the LP switch. I have a second switch inside and I can clearly hear it when I turn on the valve. You might need to be inside in back of van to hear it. If you don't hear it that could be your problem. I've never checked my valve for heat when ON so I can't be sure if that is normal.

Understand not wanting to wait for dealer to look at it. If it is the dealer that you bought it from I'd recommend you try to get them to give you some priority so you don't loose too much of the summer season.

Good luck!
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:44 AM   #8
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I think that a 'clank and heat when the switch is on is good means that the solenoid is working. The open solenoid draws about 0.5A and this would heat the solenoid. I quess the problem is with the regulator. (Are you sure there is propane in the tank? Don't trust the gauges - use hot water to check.) Should be a simple fix (replacement) that any RV shop can do, but may take a while to get it done at Airstream under warranty.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:49 AM   #9
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I think that a 'clank and heat when the switch is on is good means that the solenoid is working. The open solenoid draws about 0.5A and this would heat the solenoid. I quess the problem is with the regulator. (Are you sure there is propane in the tank? Don't trust the gauges - use hot water to check.) Should be a simple fix (replacement) that any RV shop can do, but may take a while to get it done at Airstream under warranty.



Just went to get some propane, just incase the gauges were wrong. It wouldn't take any propane and nothing was coming out of the bleeder valve. Would a bad regulator effect propane filling? Is there another valve stuck?
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Old 06-10-2018, 03:21 PM   #10
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The bleeder port is completely separate from the regulator. There is a standpipe inside the tank that leads to the valve at the fill panel. The bleeds ve is opened when filling. Gas (vapor) comes out until it is 80% full, then liquid comes out. When they see liquid they stop filling.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by dapolrbear View Post
Just went to get some propane, just incase the gauges were wrong. It wouldn't take any propane and nothing was coming out of the bleeder valve. Would a bad regulator effect propane filling? Is there another valve stuck?

Even though I know zip about propane, had the person filling your tank been knowledgeable, the symptoms you describe should have told them what was wrong. Seek a propane station staffed with trained personnel.


Good luck.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:09 AM   #12
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The bleeder port is completely separate from the regulator. There is a standpipe inside the tank that leads to the valve at the fill panel. The bleeds ve is opened when filling. Gas (vapor) comes out until it is 80% full, then liquid comes out. When they see liquid they stop filling.



Nothing came out of the bleeder valve when filling, tank is full, switch is working, solenoid is clicking, any other components to consider? I'm taking it in on Tuesday and want make sure I tell service department exactly whats happening so maybe they can diagnose the problem faster and I don't have leave it there for weeks unplugged killing my batteries.
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:50 AM   #13
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Ahhh, a puzzle to solve. This link takes you to a great description of how your system works. http://roadtreking.com/innards-rv-propane-tank/
If you really get nothing out of the bleeder--no hiss of escaping gas vapor when the knob is loosened--AND you have no gas to your appliances, then it would appear that you have no propane, which would mean that two other things aren't working--the overfill protection device is stuck closed and won't let propane enter the tank, while at the same time, your propane level indicator is stuck or malfunctioning at the 2/3 level. If you do get vapors hissing out when you loosen the bleeder, then you're back to suspecting the shutoff valve being stuck or a stuck valve in a regulator, if that's even possible. The last paragraph mentions a slam-shut valve that stops gas from leaving the tank in the event of extreme loss of gas down stream. That may be your culprit.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:02 AM   #14
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As I understand the LPG system (from the Roadtrek link), the overflow protection device (OPD) is separate from the bleed line. If the OPD is working then it shuts off the filling when the tank is 80% full. The bleed line is connected to the bleed valve at the fill panel. The stand pipe (that feeds the bleed line) is also at the 80% level. So if the OPD is set a bit below 80% and the bleed pipe at 80% then the OPD will stop the filling before you see liquid out of the bleed valve. If the OPD is a bit above 80% and the stand pipe at 80% then the person doing the filling will see liquid propane at the bleed valve and he will shut off the filling pump. I suppose it is possible that the OPD is stuck closed and that the tank is actually empty. But the gauges would have to have failed too. There is a small (very very small) likelihood of having both the OPD and gauge(s) fail at the same time (they are separate systems). But to be sure I would pour hot water over the tank and see at what point the side of the tank goes from warm (vapor) to cold (liquid). This should be at the 80% point. If it is warm top to bottom then the tank is empty even though you think it is full. If it goes from warm to cold near the top (80%), then your problem is (probably) with the regulator. As Bob mentions above, there might be another valve that shuts if the flow is too high.
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