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gmillerok1 · 09-29-2014, 02:07 PM

Thanks, Protag! I only use biodiesel to cook with... . And I never stop at Love's which sells modified hog grease for engine fuel.

Gerald

Quote:

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Equally important, avoid diesel pumps that are labeled B20. You need to use 100% diesel or at worst B5 (95% diesel, 5% biodiesel) lest you damage the emissions control system— which will cause the engine to lock itself out until repaired.

You can go to this list of sources for biodiesel:
Biodiesel Retailer Listings - Biodiesel.org
to locate which ones sell B20, and avoid them like the plague. Kind of the reverse of what the webpage was set up for, but hey, it's the best list of biodiesel sources I've found so far.

73shark · 09-29-2014, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti

Dealer is blowing smoke. From the horse's mouth:

Biodiesel Information for Mercedes-Benz Vehicles 2014 Edition

Yeah and my Tahoe will run on e85 but I don't use it. I did a long-term study between E10 and premium without alcohol and found out that the premium gives me about a 14% better miles per gallon and only about a 10% increase in cost. Also all of my small engine lawn equipment states that it will run on E10 and I found over the years that while they may run on it, it's not good for him long term. After a season of using pure gas, they start running much better.

switz · 09-29-2014, 07:30 PM

Avoid Love's, Pilot and Flying J truck stops as their pumps all have a sticker that claims up to 20% bio-diesel (the RV pumps in front and the truck pumps in back use the same storage tank). I saw several Conocco stations with bio-diesel in Texas.

When driving in West Texas, stay with Shell or Chevron as other brands may have the bio-diesel sticker.

I have never put bio-diesel in my 2007 ML320 CDI (built in October of 2006) with over 120,000 miles on it and will not plan to ever do so as the entire engine system and fuel system were NOT designed for that caustic stuff.

I avoid bio-diesel in the 2012 Dodge with Cummins 6.7L diesel even though the owner's manual says up to 5% bio-diesel in a pinch. I have a modified fuel tank (56 gallons versus the stock 34 gallon tank) so I plan my stops way ahead with a over 600 mile range when towing.

Protagonist · 09-29-2014, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73shark

I did a long-term study between E10 and premium without alcohol and found out that the premium gives me about a 14% better miles per gallon and only about a 10% increase in cost.

Apples and oranges. Ethanol and biodiesel aren't the same at all, and comparisons between the two are misleading.

Boxster1971 · 09-29-2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Apples and oranges. Ethanol and biodiesel aren't the same at all, and comparisons between the two are misleading.

But both Ethanol and biodiesel have less energy content and thus less mileage. Both Ethanol and biodiesel can damage an engine not designed to use these bio-fuels.

73shark · 09-29-2014, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Apples and oranges. Ethanol and biodiesel aren't the same at all, and comparisons between the two are misleading.

I agree that they aren't comparable. That wasn't my point. My point was that E10 is OK per the mfg just as B5 is but it's not as efficient and based on my small engine experience, not good for things that use it.

jerhofer · 09-29-2014, 08:58 PM

One of my neighbors sent the info below to me. Has this been an issue for any of you?

"Light oils like diesel, kerosene, heat oil, jet fuel can harbor microbial growth.
A vehicle not driven often (so no new fuel has been put in recently) can develop the microbial growth in the fuel. This crap is a nightmare to deal with (pumps, filters, clogged....seems to take forever to correct). It is a black moldy substance that clogs everything. It is actually a microscopic animal like a bacteria or protozoa. Who would think the little bastards could live in fuel??

On cars that are driven often, this doesn't occur because you are buying a new tank of fuel every 2-3 weeks. Same goes for the planes I used to fly. An airliner that flew all the time had no problem with it, whereas a corporate jet that may sit for months can develop the problem.

On vehicles like boats and RVs that may not be refilled with fuel often, there is a product called "PowerService Diesel", You can get it at Wal-Mart, same isle as the other fuel treatment stuff. The gray bottle (white bottle is for really cold climates).
This treats the fuel with antimicrobial properties. Driving on your trips and what not you don't have to worry about it. When you come home and park the thing, I would put a double shot of that stuff in the tank. I put it in my tractor tank when it sits over the winter and I have had no problems with microbes."

Protagonist · 09-29-2014, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerhofer

One of my neighbors sent the info below to me. Has this been an issue for any of you?

"Light oils like diesel, kerosene, heat oil, jet fuel can harbor microbial growth.
A vehicle not driven often (so no new fuel has been put in recently) can develop the microbial growth in the fuel. This crap is a nightmare to deal with (pumps, filters, clogged....seems to take forever to correct). It is a black moldy substance that clogs everything. It is actually a microscopic animal like a bacteria or protozoa. Who would think the little bastards could live in fuel??

That happens with fuel where there is condensation in the tank. Diesel fuel is lighter than water, so all of the water settles to the bottom of the tank. The microbes actually live at the water/fuel interface (live in the water, feed on the fuel), which coincidentally just happens to be right where the fuel pump is sucking up the fuel, microbes and all. But not so much on a Sprinter.

You may have noticed that your Sprinter/Interstate fuel tank is not vented. Since it's not vented, there's no place for humidity to get in. As such, there's not much water in your system for microbes to grow in. It ain't like the old days… Back then, when tanks had a vent that was open to the air all the time, there was also a glass bowl in the fuel system that you had to check before firing up the engine, and if there was any water in the bowl, you had to drain it.

avanti · 09-30-2014, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Protagonist

You may have noticed that your Sprinter/Interstate fuel tank is not vented.

How can that be? What displaces the spent fuel?

avanti · 09-30-2014, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Both Ethanol and biodiesel can damage an engine not designed to use these bio-fuels.

Yes, but the Sprinter engine IS designed to use up to B5 (or, at least is certified to accept it safely).

I am no fan of biodiesel, but it is misleading to suggest that B5 is in some way bad for your Sprinter.

Protagonist · 09-30-2014, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti

How can that be? What displaces the spent fuel?

Diesel vapors. It surprised me as well, when I first learned about it. But think about it; that's why you get a "check engine" light when you leave the fuel cap loose; air is getting into the system that shouldn't be there.

Boxster1971 · 09-30-2014, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti

Yes, but the Sprinter engine IS designed to use up to B5 (or, at least is certified to accept it safely).

I am no fan of biodiesel, but it is misleading to suggest that B5 is in some way bad for your Sprinter.

Agree that Sprinter can handle B5. I'm not suggesting it can't. It's the higher biodiesel mixes that are a potential problem. You can't avoid getting an occasional B20 fill-up, especially when driving in the Mid-West corn growing states. Personally I don't worry about it much. I just try to avoid constant use of B20 biodiesel.

- - Mike
2013 AS Interstate on 2012 MB Sprinter

Protagonist · 09-30-2014, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Agree that Sprinter can handle B5. I'm not suggesting it can't. It's the higher biodiesel mixes that are a potential problem. You can't avoid getting an occasional B20 fill-up, especially when driving in the Mid-West corn growing states. Personally I don't worry about it much. I just try to avoid constant use of B20 biodiesel.

If you MUST use B20 in an emergency, only add a quarter tank, no more. After all, if you just use enough of it to drive to another service station and top off with dure diesel, you can dilute the B20 back down to B5 or less.

jerhofer · 09-30-2014, 08:34 PM

Has anyone hooked up the radio to the truck voltage rather than the house battery?

Today my radio quit working because the house battery was low. Lesson learned about keeping the house battery charged but I had no GPS once the radio quit. I am thinking I would like the radio to turn on and off with the ignition key so I would be sure to always have the GPS working. I have installed many radios during my lifetime so I don't think re-wiring it would be a big deal.

UKDUDE · 09-30-2014, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerhofer

Has anyone hooked up the radio to the truck voltage rather than the house battery?

Today my radio quit working because the house battery was low. Lesson learned about keeping the house battery charged but I had no GPS once the radio quit. I am thinking I would like the radio to turn on and off with the ignition key so I would be sure to always have the GPS working. I have installed many radios during my lifetime so I don't think re-wiring it would be a big deal.

Humm - my Kenwood does work with the key in the accessory position. Have to hold down the menu button for a couple of seconds to power it up. Wonder if there's a fuse gone. Check the fuse box under the driver's seat; could be fuse No 13.

Boxster1971 · 09-30-2014, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerhofer

Has anyone hooked up the radio to the truck voltage rather than the house battery?

Today my radio quit working because the house battery was low. Lesson learned about keeping the house battery charged but I had no GPS once the radio quit. I am thinking I would like the radio to turn on and off with the ignition key so I would be sure to always have the GPS working. I have installed many radios during my lifetime so I don't think re-wiring it would be a big deal.

On my 2013 the radio is powered by the Sprinter battery via the key when the Coach Battery Disconnect Switch is OFF. Yours may work differently, but its worth a try.

73shark · 10-01-2014, 05:58 PM

The 2011 w/ the MB POS radio stays on 'til you pull the key out.

jerhofer · 10-03-2014, 07:51 PM

We bought the Interstate at Tom Johnson Camping at their Concord, NC location which is just down the street from the Charlotte Motor Speedway.Their main location is in Marion, NC in the western NC mountains. We have five free camping nights in their RV park and plan to use two of them tomorrow and Sunday as a shake down cruise. Out daughter lives in east TN so we plan on visiting with her and her family as well.

We have the rig packed. By Monday morning we should know what else we should bring the next time!!!

jerhofer · 10-07-2014, 08:15 PM

The weekend trip went well. In spite of facing 30-40MPH wind gusts and driving up and over the Smokies, the fuel mileage was very good. We used all of the systems and are now much more familiar with how everything works. It was a fun weekend.