Moving Propane switch in an Extended model

[AtlantaCpl]

Hello, I found Gerald's excellent guide for moving the propane switch but mine is an extended and I have a wardrobe closet between the instrument panel and the bathroom. I was curious if anyone else has fished the 10 gauge wire back there and if it is difficult?

I'm almost tempted to relocate the inside switch to the rear wheel well and just remove the cup older to flip it from the inside. It's only a few feet straight up from the current location outside. But it would look cleaner in the instrument panel. Getting lazy so thought I would see what others with an extended had done.

Brian

[gmillerok1]

The wardrobe is also in my model between the instrument panel and shower. Just remove the screws from the top materials and pushing it down and out of the way so you an thread it to the corner of the shower.

Gerald

[wayneskid]

I'm taking a slightly different approach. As delivered to me, my Interstate had two banks of three switches mounted just inside the sliding door (on the forward side of the shower/lav module) and one of the switch positions was blank. So I purchased another matching rocker switch to mount in the blank position; this one will be used for the propane shut off. I will be doing the wiring in a couple of weeks when I travel from AK to OR to do some Interstate projects.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by wayneskid

As delivered to me, my Interstate had two banks of three switches mounted just inside the sliding door (on the forward side of the shower/lav module) and one of the switch positions was blank.

Scratching the itch of curiosity, which switch do you not have? On mine, the six switches, left to right as you look at them, are:
1 - Exterior light
2 - Step lock (wired backwards, up = off)
3 - Tank heaters (switch is lighted red when on)
4 - Courtesy lights (step light and floor-level night light by the LPG detector)
5 - Bathroom light
6 - Main interior lights

[wayneskid]

I'm missing #2. I rigged a simple non-elegant mechanical defeat on the plunger switch that detects door open/closed. I have it defeated almost all the time to save wear & tear on the motor & mechanism. Reasoning; I'm only 72 and I might need the step when I get old

[73shark]

Originally Posted by AtlantaCpl

I was curious if anyone else has fished the 10 gauge wire back there and if it is difficult?

Brian

Why 10 gauge wire? I think the propane valve only draws about 1 amp.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by 73shark

Why 10 gauge wire? I think the propane valve only draws about 1 amp.

Slightly less. Usage is 18 amps in 24 hours, or thereabouts.

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Slightly less. Usage is 18 amps in 24 hours, or thereabouts.

3/4 amp rounds to 1 amp.

[wayneskid]

Re. the wire size question; 16 ga would be more than ample. 10 ga is a serious overkill!

[73shark]

Originally Posted by wayneskid

Re. the wire size question; 16 ga would be more than ample. 10 ga is a serious overkill!

My point exactly.

[AtlantaCpl]

I was just going from the instructions in the guide where it says to use 10 gauge. Good to know I can get away with 16 gauge since that will be cheaper and much easier to work with.

Thanks for pointing this out everyone.

Brian

[David M]

Originally Posted by AtlantaCpl

I was just going from the instructions in the guide where it says to use 10 gauge. Good to know I can get away with 16 gauge since that will be cheaper and much easier to work with.

Thanks for pointing this out everyone.

Brian

I used 10 ga as instructed. Besides, it was easier to push down behind the shower
David

[wayneskid]

Originally Posted by AtlantaCpl

I was just going from the instructions in the guide where it says to use 10 gauge. Good to know I can get away with 16 gauge since that will be cheaper and much easier to work with.

Thanks for pointing this out everyone.

Brian

What instructions? In what guide? I thought we we just talking about adding a switch?

[73shark]

Originally Posted by wayneskid

What instructions? In what guide? I thought we we just talking about adding a switch?

One of the forum members posted some instructions on how he did it over on the Yahoo version of this forum. Its complete with pictures and narrative.

[wayneskid]

Originally Posted by 73shark

One of the forum members posted some instructions on how he did it over on the Yahoo version of this forum. Its complete with pictures and narrative.

That would be Gerald (Grmok1 on Yahoo groups). His guide was clear and very helpful for sure. I don't know why he chose 10 ga wire, but there is nothing wrong with using heavier wire than required.

FWIW, Blue Sea has a cool online "Circuit Wizard" tool that calculates wire size after you enter all the pertinent parameters including wire insulation temp rating and optionally some other derating factors. It will also calculate fuse size. For the tech inclined, this same tool is available for IOS or Android devices. It works great on my iPhone.

You can see it here: Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems

[Jeff64]

After reading the posts about moving the propane switch I decided that sounded like a good idea so I moved mine up to the cabinet with rest of the electrical components, I like it much better there! I did want to add one thing, I was able to use the same switch, I simply drilled a 3/8" hole in the control panel (through the front) and the switch actually screwed in tight through the back of the panel. That was the only way I could see to do it because the threaded area on the swith isn't long enough to get the nut on, I like it better this way anyway, a real clean look. The whole process took around an hour and a half, an old metal coat hanger came in handy to fish the wires up the wall of the bathroom.

Jeff

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Jeff64

After reading the posts about moving the propane switch I decided that sounded like a good idea so I moved mine up to the cabinet with rest of the electrical components, I like it much better there! I did want to add one thing, I was able to use the same switch, I simply drilled a 3/8" hole in the control panel (through the front) and the switch actually screwed in tight through the back of the panel. That was the only way I could see to do it because the threaded area on the swith isn't long enough to get the nut on, I like it better this way anyway, a real clean look. The whole process took around an hour and a half, an old metal coat hanger came in handy to fish the wires up the wall of the bathroom.

Jeff

Be warned, if you go to a conscientious dispenser of propane, you will have to let him into your Interstate to verify that the propane is switched off before he'll put any in your tank, since it's an NFPA58 requirement— most states have adopted some version of NFPA58 for their standard, but not always the same edition. That's one reason why most people leave the original switch, but add a second switch inside rather than moving the original.

[Jeff64]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Be warned, if you go to a conscientious dispenser of propane, you will have to let him into your Interstate to verify that the propane is switched off before he'll put any in your tank, since it's an NFPA58 requirement— most states have adopted some version of NFPA58 for their standard, but not always the same edition. That's one reason why most people leave the original switch, but add a second switch inside rather than moving the original.

Good information to know.. If it becomes a problem I can easily add another switch.

[AtlantaCpl]

Actually let me reply with a public service announcement for benefit of future readers considering moving this switch. There is another good reason to leave the original switch as it is and just cut one wire to add the second one in series somewhere inside the cabin.

I read on another forum that if you inadvertently forget to turn the switch off besides the safety hazard and potential code hassles it can mess up the regulator leading to an expensive repair. Having the switch outside right by the fill point is extra insurance in case you forget to turn off the one inside the cabin.

Brian

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Jeff64

the threaded area on the swith isn't long enough to get the nut on, I like it better this way anyway, a real clean look.

Jeff

Most of us just routed out the back to allow the body of the switch to recess into the back of the panel. That way you can get the nut on.