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Old 09-03-2013, 09:08 AM   #15
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One of the forum members posted some instructions on how he did it over on the Yahoo version of this forum. Its complete with pictures and narrative.
That would be Gerald (Grmok1 on Yahoo groups). His guide was clear and very helpful for sure. I don't know why he chose 10 ga wire, but there is nothing wrong with using heavier wire than required.

FWIW, Blue Sea has a cool online "Circuit Wizard" tool that calculates wire size after you enter all the pertinent parameters including wire insulation temp rating and optionally some other derating factors. It will also calculate fuse size. For the tech inclined, this same tool is available for IOS or Android devices. It works great on my iPhone.

You can see it here: Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:03 PM   #16
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After reading the posts about moving the propane switch I decided that sounded like a good idea so I moved mine up to the cabinet with rest of the electrical components, I like it much better there! I did want to add one thing, I was able to use the same switch, I simply drilled a 3/8" hole in the control panel (through the front) and the switch actually screwed in tight through the back of the panel. That was the only way I could see to do it because the threaded area on the swith isn't long enough to get the nut on, I like it better this way anyway, a real clean look. The whole process took around an hour and a half, an old metal coat hanger came in handy to fish the wires up the wall of the bathroom.

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Old 09-11-2013, 06:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jeff64 View Post
After reading the posts about moving the propane switch I decided that sounded like a good idea so I moved mine up to the cabinet with rest of the electrical components, I like it much better there! I did want to add one thing, I was able to use the same switch, I simply drilled a 3/8" hole in the control panel (through the front) and the switch actually screwed in tight through the back of the panel. That was the only way I could see to do it because the threaded area on the swith isn't long enough to get the nut on, I like it better this way anyway, a real clean look. The whole process took around an hour and a half, an old metal coat hanger came in handy to fish the wires up the wall of the bathroom.

Jeff
Be warned, if you go to a conscientious dispenser of propane, you will have to let him into your Interstate to verify that the propane is switched off before he'll put any in your tank, since it's an NFPA58 requirement— most states have adopted some version of NFPA58 for their standard, but not always the same edition. That's one reason why most people leave the original switch, but add a second switch inside rather than moving the original.
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:18 PM   #18
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Be warned, if you go to a conscientious dispenser of propane, you will have to let him into your Interstate to verify that the propane is switched off before he'll put any in your tank, since it's an NFPA58 requirement— most states have adopted some version of NFPA58 for their standard, but not always the same edition. That's one reason why most people leave the original switch, but add a second switch inside rather than moving the original.
Good information to know.. If it becomes a problem I can easily add another switch.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:05 PM   #19
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Actually let me reply with a public service announcement for benefit of future readers considering moving this switch. There is another good reason to leave the original switch as it is and just cut one wire to add the second one in series somewhere inside the cabin.

I read on another forum that if you inadvertently forget to turn the switch off besides the safety hazard and potential code hassles it can mess up the regulator leading to an expensive repair. Having the switch outside right by the fill point is extra insurance in case you forget to turn off the one inside the cabin.

Brian
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:43 AM   #20
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the threaded area on the swith isn't long enough to get the nut on, I like it better this way anyway, a real clean look.

Jeff
Most of us just routed out the back to allow the body of the switch to recess into the back of the panel. That way you can get the nut on.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:30 PM   #21
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can some post the link(URL) to those instructions please
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:55 PM   #22
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http://www.gmillerpc.com/up/van/switch1.pdf

He has since reinstalled the external switch in series w/ the internal one. 10 ga wire is overkill however since the valve only draws about 0.75 amps. It does probably make it easier to fish but 14 ga would work also. I happened to have a fish tape, so I used 16 ga wire. Bottom line is that when you're rolling down the road and someone wants to fire up the gen to run the microwave, you don't need to stop to turn the propane on.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:41 PM   #23
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thanks for that link. Here is what I was thinking, instead of going clear out side could you find the hot lead to the out side switch at or near the back of the 12vdc distribution panel. Then route the 12vdc up to the new switch and back down to the dc distribution panel that way you avoid drilling another hole int the bottom of the coach. Can anyone think of a reason this would not work?
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:40 PM   #24
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thanks for that link. Here is what I was thinking, instead of going clear out side could you find the hot lead to the out side switch at or near the back of the 12vdc distribution panel. Then route the 12vdc up to the new switch and back down to the dc distribution panel that way you avoid drilling another hole int the bottom of the coach. Can anyone think of a reason this would not work?
FYI, I did not have to drill another hole. As noted in the instruction, I was able to squeeze the polyvinyl tubing and the two 10 ga wires through the existing water drain hole and seal around the tubing with silicone. The only difference was that I used a slightly larger diameter tubing than specified. Good luck.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:01 PM   #25
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thanks for that link. Here is what I was thinking, instead of going clear out side could you find the hot lead to the out side switch at or near the back of the 12vdc distribution panel. Then route the 12vdc up to the new switch and back down to the dc distribution panel that way you avoid drilling another hole int the bottom of the coach. Can anyone think of a reason this would not work?



If you want to find the hot side of the feed to the propane switch it is Ckt. #6; this is a 7.5 A blade fuse.



But, I just finished installing my inside switch and this may be another way to tackle the install. I had an unused switch position in the LH 3-switch panel. Later builds used that position for the step disable switch but on my 2010 Twin model, this switch position was blank. (I did discover that the wires had been pulled for the disable switch but they were unconnected) So I got another matching switch and installed it in place of the blank filler. The wiring run will be different for other model years and floor plans. It will probably be different for "identical" models built at different times; some details seem to evolve as units come out of the factory. For my van there was no reason to drill a hole in the bottom of the coach. I'm guessing this is very likely true for most Interstates. For mine I did some crawling around under the van and found two semi-hidden stubs of Pex tubing (one red, one blue) protruding through the metal Sprinter floor on the curbside and about a foot forward of the location of the factory panel that houses the propane switch, fill port, etc. These tubes had shut-off valves just inside the van and I'm guessing they would be used as low-point drains in the lounge models. The Pex tubes where "sealed" with some expanding urethane foam where the passed through the floor so it was easy to poke a length of stiff wire through the foam creating a path for the wire (I used 14 ga. twisted pair cable). I used both metal and fiberglass fish tapes (in some cases the stiffer metal one worked better and sometimes the more flexible fiberglass one was better) and put pull string in three sections of the run:
  1. From behind the switch panel located on the forward face of the shower/toilet enclosure (this is just inside the sliding door and above the back of the 3rd seat for my Twin) running straight down to the area of just below the black tank housing.
  2. From the area below the black tank housing running straight back past the shower/toilet enclosure to about the middle of the curbside bed. Access to this area is easy after the plywood platform for the bed it removed.
  3. From the area under the middle of the curbside bed down through the foam surrounding one of the Pex tubes mention above.
Once the pull string were in place it was easy to pull the cable a section at a time from the area of the switch panel to the underside of the van. At the backside of the existing shutoff switch, I cut the ground side wire and connected one conductor of the new cable to each side of the cut wire. I used butt connectors and self-sealing heat shrink tubing here so everything would be nice and weather proof. I used zip ties to keep the wiring up and out of harms way.

I don't run my generator while rolling but it's really nice to be able to shut off or turn on the propane at will without having to step outside and mess around with the extremely funky little latch on the cover for the panel.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:34 PM   #26
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Adding second in-series LP switch

I installed a second LP switch downstream from the outside switch. I plan to locate it on the control panel inside curbside roof locker next to the Water Heater controls. I haven't yet mounted the switch on this panel because I have this area ripped apart while I'm also working on a new solar installation.

The wiring for the remote LP switch can be accessed through the outside covered outlets on the curbside. I just spliced in a new switch with LED indicator after the existing switch. I used some 14 AWG red-black zip wire I had in my shop. Running new wires to the inside through the existing holes just below the battery box was fairly easy. I used a couple of feet of split cable tubing, just like Airstream does, to prevent wire chaffing. Then I ran the wires under the rear curbside seat and the curbside wardrobe cabinet. Finally up to roof locker via the access panel on the bath rear wall and across the upper section of rear curbside wardrobe. The third wire on my switch is the ground connection for the amber LED indicator light.

See photos below.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:03 PM   #27
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Question:

Why move the switch?

Is there a problem tuning on valve and leaving on while your using Coach?

When you exit or are done using it can't touch just turn off?

I don't understand all the fuss to move switch
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:19 PM   #28
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In my case it was just for the convenience in case I forgot to turn it on before we got underway. Also if you're camping and it's raining, you don't to go outside to turn it off to preserve the batteries during the night.
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