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Old 01-23-2014, 05:49 AM   #15
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Yes but you probably don't want to idle the engine that long to charge the battery.
Agreed. If you jump-start it, plan on disconnecting shore power and going for a drive.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:43 AM   #16
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I read the manual a little differently. To me, it seems that the chassis battery needs to be above 13.2v and below 15.5v OR the house battery needs to be above 13.0v and below 15.5v for the relay to come on. With BOTH chassis and house batteries below 11.4v (dead) the relay will be off. So as I understand it, the house system will charge first, and once the house system has recovered, THEN the relay will kick on to allow the chassis system to recharge. But it won't allow you to charge both at once.
Protag is correct that is the way I read how the BIM will work.

But then there is another issue I didn't think of earlier. The coach batteries may be so low that they won't even charge. I've had this happen before on a car that ended up with a drained battery -- zero volts. I tried attaching a normal battery charger and it would not charge. I had to jump start it to get it going again.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:12 AM   #17
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I stopped in to see if there was any charge progress on the Interstate this AM.....all is as it was when I left yesterday. I am plugged into shore power...the microwave clock is illuminated....the Magnum Inverter is illuminated and can be scrolled through the menu options.....when I flip up the "Tank Heater" switch, it turns red....other than that, nothing else operates electrically (lights etc.). I suspected there might be a main circuit breaker tripped, although I assume there are separate circuit breakers for the Airstream side and the Mercedes side. I checked as many manuals (that I could tolerate) that came with the vehicle and I cannot locate the circuit board panel that is referred to in the Airstream Owners manual.

I did not start a charge on the battery as I didn't think, at this point, with everything shut down (except the items I mentioned), that it would have a positive impact. I'm heading to knee surgery tomorrow so probably won't be exploring any other "remedies" till next week. I'm tempted to call the dealer and have him stop out and trouble shoot.
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:07 PM   #18
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I suspected there might be a main circuit breaker tripped, although I assume there are separate circuit breakers for the Airstream side and the Mercedes side. I checked as many manuals (that I could tolerate) that came with the vehicle and I cannot locate the circuit board panel that is referred to in the Airstream Owners manual.
There are no breakers on the Mercedes side; it's all 12vDC, so it's all fuses.
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:13 PM   #19
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If you have a rear sofa as opposed to side couches, there is a panel with 2 chrome button-pulls just behind where your legs dangle when sitting on the sofa. You push the chrome and out pops the knob to open the door. Behind that door is a brown panel with a push area at top. Push that small area and that door pops open and viola there are your 12 volt fuses and 120 volt circuit breakers for the Airstream side of the motorhome.

Also, have you made sure the Master Power switch is on? That is the black switch with the red indicator light mounted at the rear area of the sliding door frame. Its kinda like behind the elbow of someone sitting in the 2nd passenger seat. That might have been turned off. It is electrically operated. And there is also the manual method of the Master Switch behind the electrical access panel described above. There on the left side is a red knob that turns from OFF or ON for the battery disconnect. If that is OFF all of the 12 volt items except Propane Leak Detector and Radio Memory are off (there may be another item but not sure what it is--maybe CO detector). If that is OFF then no 12 volts i.e.: lights will work, water pump will not work.

I did speak this AM with AI factory for my own knowledge. Yes, the BIM--Battery Isolation Monitor (PCI Battery Isolation Monitor as talked about with an earlier posting) does also charge the engine battery ONCE the voltages have been reached on the motorhome batteries. In simple terms, if the motorhome batteries are satisfied then the engine battery will also be charged when plugged into shore power

Yes, once you have ample voltage in the motorhome batteries you can then use the "emergency boost/start" button on the left side of the steering column to assist the engine battery by adding the motorhome batteries into the engine starting circuit. BUT again, don't let the engine sit and idle for an hour charging the battery. Either take it for a LONG drive or put an additional small battery charger on the red post under the hood or leave it plugged into shore power and let the Magnum inverter and BIM charge the engine battery once the motorhome batteries have reached the proper voltage as described in the BIM sheet.

Right From the PCI-BIM instructions........
Key Feature.....
a. Charge Coach Battery when Alternator is charging Chassis Battery
b. Charge Chassis Battery when Converter is charging Coach Battery (this would be receiving 120 volts from shore power or generator power into the Magnum inverter-charger.)
Isolate Batteries to prevent discharging or overcharging of Batteries, or when neither battery is being charged
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:50 PM   #20
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If you have a rear sofa as opposed to side couches, there is a panel with 2 chrome button-pulls just behind where your legs dangle when sitting on the sofa. You push the chrome and out pops the knob to open the door. Behind that door is a brown panel with a push area at top. Push that small area and that door pops open and viola there are your 12 volt fuses and 120 volt circuit breakers for the Airstream side of the motorhome…
Not quit all the Airstream fuses are in the panel at the back. I found out — the hard way — that there are fuses for Airstream installed equipment, such as the awning power and alarm, located in the jam packed breaker panel underneath the driver's seat in my 2013 lounge model. Not only are there a LOT of fuses in there, but the only way to access them is from outside with the driver's door open and, of course, it was pouring rain and cold.

When I got to the dealer, I asked if they had any clue what all those fuses were and which was which. His comment was, "I wish we did, but we don't."
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:43 PM   #21
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You don't want to idle the Sprinter diesel for hours - it could affect the EGR valve operation, which could throw you into limp mode when you go to drive. Mercedes offered an option which raised the idle speed considerably if you needed to idle for long periods.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:35 PM   #22
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Yes, sorry about that. I did not really lear of where everything is yet. And that is why we have 2 years with Coach Net. They are supposed to know just about everything, according to Airstream headquarters and normally I'd call Airstream but if its a night or weekend, then Coach Net if I cannot determine what is going on by myself. Some fuses may and are in the panel under the drivers seat. Most all of the fuses in there are Mercedes fuses but it appears that one or more could be Airstream. That panel and the one under the left side of the dash above where your left foot rests are Mercedes fuses. Keep in mind that in most other vehicles there is a fuse box under the hood. Not in the Mercedes though.

What I am learning is that many Airstream Interstate owners are the, "put in the key and go owners." I on the other hand need and want to know how and why the various mechanical and electrical things work. I carry a full set of wiring drawings both printed and on my iPad should I need to look into something.

Just today we took off the driver seat to get a look-see at what is the wiring and configuration under the seat and took plenty of pictures. Also the first week I stepped on the very small, narrow fiberglass lower step getting into the driver seat and popped a screw. Today we spent some time underneath. They only run a screw up into the fiberglass above for the end support. Vertical pull and no nut-bolt arrangement. Poor design. No real support. Have to make plans to improve that one.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:43 PM   #23
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Also the first week I stepped on the very small, narrow fiberglass lower step getting into the driver seat and popped a screw. Today we spent some time underneath. They only run a screw up into the fiberglass above for the end support. Vertical pull and no nut-bolt arrangement. Poor design. No real support. Have to make plans to improve that one.
May want to check out the steps on the 2014 models. Wider, and with substantial support. I'm giving serious consideration to ordering the new steps for my 2012, as soon as I figure out a parts list of all the necessary components. I'll have to see if I can download a 2014 Airstream Interstate Parts Manual, if they're available yet.
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:13 PM   #24
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Bikerbill has a 2014 model. Maybe those new wider steps are not all that good?
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:28 PM   #25
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Bikerbill has a 2014 model. Maybe those new wider steps are not all that good?
I think it was a mid-year change, and some early-14's still had the old step. I tried out the new step at Foley RV, and crawled up underneath to take a look at the mounting system. Completely different from the old version on mine, very solid and comfortable to use.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:48 PM   #26
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I'll have to see if I can download a 2014 Airstream Interstate Parts Manual, if they're available yet.
There's a 2014 parts manual here:
http://www.airstream.com/files/libra...e67d7e90c8.pdf
…but I haven't been able to determine if it applies to the 2014.5 versions.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:53 PM   #27
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There's a 2014 parts manual here:
http://www.airstream.com/files/libra...e67d7e90c8.pdf
…but I haven't been able to determine if it applies to the 2014.5 versions.
Peter
Easy enough to find out. I'll e-mail the part numbers to June Boudreaux at Foley RV, and she'll be able to tell in a few days if they're the old or new steps.
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