Minimum safe traveling and camping temperatures

[TayaraTravel]

We are planning a trip to Yellowstone next year in September, and I started wondering about cold weather limits (not something I've worried about in Houston yet).

What is the minimum temperature you feel safe traveling and camping in? (Assuming you do NOT winterize the van.)

[Lily&Me]

We/I have spent many nights in the Interstate in temps in the teens, countless more with temps below freezing, and lived to tell the tale.

Fill your fresh water tank, run your furnace, open lower cabinets at bedtime to distribute heat to pipes and canned goods, basically take the usual precautions as thoroughly discussed elsewhere here...

Our Interstates are not well enough insulated for these temps to be physically comfortable, but it is manageable and doable...keeping your feet covered and wearing microfleece helps a great deal.

Maggie

[Isuzusweet]

As Maggie posted, camping down below freezing is doable with certain precautions like keeping your water tanks full and heating sources of items that can provide a heat sink capability.

I think the rule of thumb I have is, you're fine as long as daytime temps climb above freezing, or the camper is in direct sunlight for a while.

We also have a number of Thinsulate blankets; one of which we place under us, and one over us.

https://www.wayfair.ca/ComfortTech-3...090%2C12363093

You can find these down in the US.

Cheers
Tony

[InterBlog]

My recommendation is that you consider both ends of that equation. At temps of 30's and below, the van's surface area to volume ratio and relative lack of insulation are going to manifest in a dramatic way. You can run your furnace and you should, but the van will lose heat so fast that you'll still be dealing with drafts and especially temperature stratification (heat will accumulate at the ceiling). Therefore, in addition to knowing what the "safe" temp is, you should decide what equipment will increase your comfort.

I strongly recommend window coverings, as that's where a great deal of heat is lost. Reflectix at a minimum (my project here) but before my husband and I do any cold-weather camping, I'm really hoping to upgrade those to an Insul-Bright based solution (future project).

We made a large investment in bedding: three Rumpls (two synthetic and one down), one synthetic North Face sleeping bag, and one NEMO Disco 15 down sleeping bag for me. My husband typically takes the down Rumpl as he still has a synthetic sleeping bag. I have the down sleeping bag so I supplement it with one of the synthetic Rumpls.

The NEMO Disco 15 was a game-changer for me because it sleeps like a bed, not a bag (it was designed extra-wide with that in mind). It is hands-down the most comfortable bedding option I've ever tried in the Interstate.

And nothing beats real down. It's not just warm - it breathes the way synthetic does not.

[TayaraTravel]

Thanks to all above. My main concern at this point is risk of pipe breaks or other damage. It sounds like we are safe for anything reasonably expected in Wyoming in September.

As long as we can avoid damage, we'll work the comfort aspect a trip at a time. We already have the RV Super Bag, and have camped at near freezing without using the furnace, so we have an idea of (dis)comfort down to that level.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

More a trip planning note than anything else: All some extra time. If you get snow in September, it probably will not hang around for long. If the storm comes along on your planned departure day .... have some "pad" so you can wait another day or three.

The same "temperatures in the teens" stuff also applies to cloths. Do you have clothing appropriate to those temperatures? I know that we change "inventory" every time we move. I would be hard pressed to dig out our "winter north of Montreal" gear. Best to take inventory well in advance.

Bob

[LB_3]

Diesel fuel can start congealing around 10-15 degrees so starting the engine could be a challenge if you are in sub-freezing temps for an extended period.

[Lily&Me]

Diesel in cold weather areas is treated to prevent the congealing, so if you fuel up in Wyoming you should be safe....there are also additives, which Doug always carried a bottle of in case we had to make an emergency run home from warm weather during winter months.

Maggie

[InterBlog]

It doesn't always work, she said, recalling a diesel car she owned in St. Louis during grad school.

Or very possibly they've improved the additives since that time.

[Lily&Me]

They may well have improved, and ours has not had a problem in 10 winters of travel, but for one January when we had last filled our tank up before the winter grade fuel was available....then, we were sluggish until we had driven well South and into warmer temps.

Maggie

[GM Airstream]

Originally Posted by TayaraTravel

Thanks to all above. My main concern at this point is risk of pipe breaks or other damage. It sounds like we are safe for anything reasonably expected in Wyoming in September.

As long as we can avoid damage, we'll work the comfort aspect a trip at a time. We already have the RV Super Bag, and have camped at near freezing without using the furnace, so we have an idea of (dis)comfort down to that level.

First off if the wx is freezing... I don't get on the road.. unless conditions are improving... towing the AS with ice on the road.. IS NOT WHAT YOU WANT TO DO...

As to the Trailer lines freezing.. kinda depends on the year of your trailer... The newer ones have PEX tubing in them.. (easy to see... if you look and see red , blue and or white water lines)... then you have the newer lines...

PEX is bullet proof... and the manufacture says that the lines can expand up to 5 times their dia... if they freeze... but, while the water lines are good to go into freezing weather.. the faucets and fittings are not...

so best to blow the propane.... and keep a eye on the supply of it in the tanks... or as I do...get a couple of them little CUBE elect heaters... and put them on the floor... making sure you put a piece of something that insulates them from the carpet or flooring ... two of them makes up about 1/3 the output in btu's that the propane heater does... but, being on all the time... each one draws about 12 amps... and equals about 5000 btu... natch on shore power at the park that provides elect along with the overnight rate...

One has to watch the amount of amperage that you are hooked up to.. and be conserned about the fact that as it gets cold.. other are sucking on the AC shore power... too.. which then can draw down the votage.. and reduce the amount of power you can get from the shore... its not rocket science but one should have a idea of how much elect power your drawing so you don't wake up at night with the ckt breaker tripped.. and now ice cold inside the AS...

We also use a elect heated sheet/pad.. and elect blankets... works great.. so long as your glamping... but out in the boonies... you have to practice the togeatherness of heat conservation when in the sack...

One other thing that most don't think of ... is when it gets cold... the alu skin on the outside.. shrinks... (its a metal thing)... and as it does it will cause the trailer to bow... one doesn't want to put the bal jacks down and then go out and re-adjust 'em lower... as when the heat returns.. the trailer is going to expand.. and bend the other way... causing compression in the skin...which causes them indentations... to appear... so best to not set the bal jacks down too tight...

Inside when it got really cold.. i.e 18 below zero.. is the most we have experianced... and with the elect heaters... and propane... the trailer did quite well... but, it was interesting to see the alu inside sheeting start to pillow as it stayed expanded and warm... while the outside shrunk...

When things warmed back up... everything came back to normal.. minus a few popped pop rivets inside...that easy to replace...

and yes we had replaced the screens with plastic glazing... and some will say ... but then you can't see outside... you can't anyway...as the moisture of you breathing out will freeze on the inside of the windows... so get ready for water coming off of them when it thaws out... and you need to vent the trailer.. to get rid of the bad breath smell... and chance of mold ...

The best way I can tell you to do that .. is to hook up and head south with the trailer... and go visit the southern states where it warm and dry... so it can dry out and lower the chance of getting mold... its a great way to say.. you have to go...

The rest have given you some other issues and advise to go with...

Winter time is fun time.. as most of the other glampers are home... leaving the campground open for adventure...

G.M>

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Ok, if we are really going into the details:

How is your trailer hooked up? Is there a hose from the trailer to the water supply? Is it hanging out in air? It's going to freeze pretty fast ....

Same issue about hookups, but with the waste water. Those valves hang out under the trailer a bit. A good strong wind from the wrong direction *will* freeze them.

The previous post about PEX vs metal is correct. Freezing *will* test all the crimped joints on the PEX. If one isn't quite right ... yikes. There also are things like the pressure regulator valve on the water input. It's metal, out towards the skin, and does not like to freeze.

Running heaters at night is fine. It does not work so well running down the road. Driving only above freezing is by far the best answer. You have a lot of air moving at 60 MPH. If it's 10F outdoors, the trailer *will* cool down pretty quickly. Plan accordingly ....

Being out on the wind swept barren plain as it freezes is never as good as being in the woods, in the wind shadow of the mountain. It may be 20F at the weather station. Down under your trailer you might still be at >40F in the right location.

Lots of fiddly details.

Bob

[Lily&Me]

The OP has an Interstate, not a trailer.

Maggie

[TayaraTravel]

Originally Posted by Lily&Me

The OP has an Interstate, not a trailer.

Maggie

Yep, Airstream Interstate touring coach, not a trailer.