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Old 10-01-2017, 06:30 PM   #1
Amg
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Maserator pump stopping

I was dumping my tanks today. I opened the black valve first and turned on the pump. About 45 seconds later the pump stopped. I flipped it off and then on and it came back on. I noticed that it would stop about every 30 or so seconds. Did not matter whether black or grey tanks. Always came back on when flipped off and on. At first thought when dumping black tank it was an overload safety cutoff. But did it also on grey tank dumping.

Anybody have any thoughts why this is occurring. Thanks
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:34 PM   #2
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Having replaced my pump twice, as well as reconfigured the dump system because of AS's poor design, I think I have a good idea what the problem likely may be.

First of all, unless you unhook the 3" connection, after the first time you dump, the 3" piping to the pump will retain fluid and never drain out. This is because the pump is below the tanks, and the hose it pumps into is higher than the pump, so the liquid can never fully be drained. This can caused deposits in the rotor of the pump that could make it hard to turn. On the backside of the pump is a rubber plug. Take it off and see if you can turn the screw under the plug with a flat bladed screwdriver. If it is very tight, then that's the problem.

There also could be hair wrapped around it, or other debris. Those plastic toss in packets are particularly bad about causing problems, because the plastic gets wrapped around the rotor as well.

If the rotor is very hard to turn, then you will have to remove the hose connection on the side of the pump, and remove the four bolts on the end of the pump. This covers the rotor, and the cover will come off so you can inspect the rotor. You can then clean it of any material that could be impeding its rotation.

If the rotor is clean, then you may need to repair the pump, which is possible, but it's about as expensive as simply replacing it.

Be careful, because if you disconnect the hose on the side of the pump, about two gallons or more of not very pleasing liquid will pour out directly on your head.

I modified my system by adding a "T" connection, so I can drain out the liquid after each trip, and also, if need be, use it as a gravity drain system in an emergency should the pump fail.

Good luck.
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Old 10-02-2017, 08:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmillerok1 View Post
Having replaced my pump twice, as well as reconfigured the dump system because of AS's poor design, I think I have a good idea what the problem likely may be.



First of all, unless you unhook the 3" connection, after the first time you dump, the 3" piping to the pump will retain fluid and never drain out. This is because the pump is below the tanks, and the hose it pumps into is higher than the pump, so the liquid can never fully be drained. This can caused deposits in the rotor of the pump that could make it hard to turn. On the backside of the pump is a rubber plug. Take it off and see if you can turn the screw under the plug with a flat bladed screwdriver. If it is very tight, then that's the problem.



There also could be hair wrapped around it, or other debris. Those plastic toss in packets are particularly bad about causing problems, because the plastic gets wrapped around the rotor as well.



If the rotor is very hard to turn, then you will have to remove the hose connection on the side of the pump, and remove the four bolts on the end of the pump. This covers the rotor, and the cover will come off so you can inspect the rotor. You can then clean it of any material that could be impeding its rotation.



If the rotor is clean, then you may need to repair the pump, which is possible, but it's about as expensive as simply replacing it.



Be careful, because if you disconnect the hose on the side of the pump, about two gallons or more of not very pleasing liquid will pour out directly on your head.



I modified my system by adding a "T" connection, so I can drain out the liquid after each trip, and also, if need be, use it as a gravity drain system in an emergency should the pump fail.



Good luck.


Great idea, I just replaced my macerator pump today (old one still working but I found 2 short bolts broken), I measured 6” of room currently occupied by the flex hose that may fit a T drain, can you post some pics of your installation? Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:32 PM   #4
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Great idea, can you post some pics of your installation? Thanks in advance.
I used the suggestion from this forum and added a "sanitary T". Attached are before and after photos.

Airstream Interstate Grand Tour 2017.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:04 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Air99 View Post
Great idea, I just replaced my macerator pump today (old one still working but I found 2 short bolts broken), I measured 6” of room currently occupied by the flex hose that may fit a T drain, can you post some pics of your installation? Thanks in advance.
See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post1640693
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Old 10-04-2017, 12:14 PM   #6
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Ah I see thank you both for the pics and links. If there’s room I will try to add a gate valve before the cap to avoid the “splash” when you want to install the drain hose.
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:12 PM   #7
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Ah I see thank you both for the pics and links. If there’s room I will try to add a gate valve before the cap to avoid the “splash” when you want to install the drain hose.
From the photos posted by TN Princess, it looks like their "Sanitary T" was installed between the two gate valves as shown by Item 8 in the attached diagram from the 2017 Interstate part book.

That is not an optimal installation. The gmillerok1 installation replaces the flex hose just before the macerator with a flexible rubber T fitting. But I noticed that the 2017 GT model has the flex hose, Item 7, making a 90deg bend since the macerator is mounted differently than the older Lounge models. The gmillerok1 installation replaces that flex hose just before the macerator with a flexible rubber T fitting. Perhaps the rubber flex T could be adapted for this installation on the 2017 GT models.

I just ordered the parts needed based on gmillerok1's information. Looks like a fairly straight forward modification.
Attached Files
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:13 PM   #8
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Yes, my "T" is installed downstream from both black and gray drains. The black water will flow retrograde by about 6 inches toward the gray tank, before draining our of the "T". For my installation, I didn't have room for a valve immediately before the 3 inch outlet.

When I cut the pipe, about a pint of water drained in to my catch pan. So my opinion not much volume remains after draining tanks.

I had purchased the flex Y and hose as described by the link (gmillerok1 installation), but these would not fit on my drain.

Any one need one foot of 3 inch diameter, Tiger PVC suction pipe?
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Old 10-06-2017, 01:58 PM   #9
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Thanks.
Now I know why my macerator was busted this spring.
And another modification to the list.
Peter
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Old 10-06-2017, 04:52 PM   #10
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Yes, my "T" is installed downstream from both black and gray drains. The black water will flow retrograde by about 6 inches toward the gray tank, before draining our of the "T". For my installation, I didn't have room for a valve immediately before the 3 inch outlet.



When I cut the pipe, about a pint of water drained in to my catch pan. So my opinion not much volume remains after draining tanks.



I had purchased the flex Y and hose as described by the link (gmillerok1 installation), but these would not fit on my drain.



Any one need one foot of 3 inch diameter, Tiger PVC suction pipe?

TN Princess - I misspoke when I said it was not optimal. Your installation of the T fitting between the gray and black tank valves will work just fine, it's just a little farther under the van. That bend in the flex hose before the macerator on. 2017 GT model does require a different approach. Nice job.
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:11 PM   #11
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TN Princess - I misspoke when I said it was not optimal. Your installation of the T fitting between the gray and black tank valves will work just fine, it's just a little farther under the van. That bend in the flex hose before the macerator on. 2017 GT model does require a different approach. Nice job

...........

Oh I agree it is not optimal. Sometimes you work with what you have. My purpose was a "plan B" to drain waste if macerator "goes nonfunctional" and to drain more fluid out of the system for winterization.

As this is my first winter with a motorhome, not sure if this will help with winterzation.

Safe travels,
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:16 PM   #12
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The winterizing issue of trapped water in the waste lines is variable on each Interstate. I looked at mine closely and there is a positive slop in the piping all the way to the macerator. I've winterized about 10 tinted now and have not had any issues. I do end my winterizing routine by running anti-freeze through the macerator pump and use anti-freeze to flush the toilet once winterized.
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Old 10-07-2017, 11:24 AM   #13
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I could not find a Kanaflex 300 EPDM hose of the proper ID needed to complete the modification of Gmillerok1. So I simply drilled a 3/4" hole in the PCV before the macerator. Then I put in a rubber stopper and secure it with a large hose clamp around the PVC pipe. I do not have the emergency dump capability of G's solution, but I do have a way of draining everything before the pump. This also provides a way to drain the macerator discharge hose completely - though I have to move the rotor back and forth using the screwdriver slot in the pump.
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Old 10-07-2017, 12:32 PM   #14
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I simply drilled a 3/4" hole in the PCV before the macerator. Then I put in a rubber stopper and secure it with a large hose clamp around the PVC pipe.
Nice idea. I think I may do this. Should be a lot easier and less messy to drain this way than opening up a 3" cap.
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