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Old 08-18-2013, 11:39 AM   #1
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Manual Override on Electric Dump Valves

We are camping and need help with our 2013 Interstate. The 15 amp fuse for the black valve is blown, and blows again when replaced (when replaced , the black tank light goes on and as soon as button touched, blows again)
We are not sure why it keeps blowing, but at this point we need to dump our gray water tank at minimum manually.
1-does anyone know why the fuse would blow (I was fiddling w inverter settings earlier - but did not think I changed anything)
2- We want to manually open the gray water valve, but we cannot find it under the vehicle. We have reviewed the Airstream manual, but it is not very helpful on this issue. Please let me know where I should be looking for the override screw on the gray water valve, and any other help or advice you can offer. I crawled around under there, but I am an unexperienced mechanic so some big help is needed!! Thank you!
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:51 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Supercatspjs View Post
We are camping and need help with our 2013 Interstate. The 15 amp fuse for the black valve is blown, and blows again when replaced (when replaced , the black tank light goes on and as soon as button touched, blows again)
We are not sure why it keeps blowing, but at this point we need to dump our gray water tank at minimum manually.
1-does anyone know why the fuse would blow (I was fiddling w inverter settings earlier - but did not think I changed anything)
2- We want to manually open the gray water valve, but we cannot find it under the vehicle. We have reviewed the Airstream manual, but it is not very helpful on this issue. Please let me know where I should be looking for the override screw on the gray water valve, and any other help or advice you can offer. I crawled around under there, but I am an unexperienced mechanic so some big help is needed!! Thank you!
Never had that fuse blow, but I did blow the fuse for the macerator pump once, and the fuse for the hose reel, twice, all on my first-ever camping trip in my Interstate. Not sure what would cause your dump valve fuse to blow. Aside from the fact that you say it's a 15amp fuse, and my manual calls for a black 20amp fuse on circuit 7, which powers the dump valves. See page H-15 of the Interstate owners manual.

But as far as finding the manual override is concerned, if you trace the 3" hose from the macerator pump inlet back to the gray tank, it should be right close to the tank. There is a circular disk with a screw in the center on each side of the valve. Turn the screw to open or close the valve. See page G-16 of your manual.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:59 AM   #3
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Thank you! Going in again

Yes-saw that 20 called for in manual and tried it and blew too -weird. Ok going under again to see if can open again! Wish me luck!
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:46 PM   #4
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Great news! black button not lit anymore and gray button works - turned macerator screw to see if jammed up and causing fuse to blow - turned a bunch, replaced fuse and then it all worked! Yeah! never found bypass for grey...I think there is a giant metal box covering all the equipment and can't tell tanks apart -ugh- what color is each tank....?? Thank you! I knew you would know what to do and so lucky you were online!!
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Old 08-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #5
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Well done both of you. This is why I joined this forum.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:03 PM   #6
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Great news! black button not lit anymore and gray button works - turned macerator screw to see if jammed up and causing fuse to blow - turned a bunch, replaced fuse and then it all worked! Yeah! never found bypass for grey...I think there is a giant metal box covering all the equipment and can't tell tanks apart -ugh- what color is each tank....?? Thank you! I knew you would know what to do and so lucky you were online!!
Black tank is inside the bathroom under the toilet, above floor level.

Fresh tank is directly below the fill valve on the side of the vehicle, between the side of the vehicle and the frame.

Propane tank is to the rear near the generator.

Process of elimination means the other two tanks under there must be the gray tank and the diesel tank, which should be easy to tell apart.

I could tell you which is which by crawling under mine and looking, but until my head heals where the biopsy was done on my scalp, I'm not rubbing my head against the pavement by crawling under my Interstate. Sorry about that.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:52 PM   #7
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Thank you! And heal soon!
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:29 PM   #8
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The gray tank is curbside and has a heater pad attached to it.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:22 PM   #9
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Fuses to electric dump valves

Thanks, I have had the same problem, I will give it a try.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:05 PM   #10
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I don't think there is any by-pass. You oars aware that only one tank valve will operate at a time. Do the black first, use the macerator to pump it out and then close the black and then open the great and a gain use the macerator to pump it out. Unfortunately Airstream does not have any other way of dumping the tanks that I am aware of. And you cannot gravity out even the grey water with the grey tank open and the hose open into a dump. You have to have the macerator operational. My soon-to-be-built Roadtrek also has valves and a macerator but my valves are manual and there is no electric hose reel. My hose just slides back into a rather big, flat tray which is mounted directly under the larger fuel tank. And it does have a plug underneath whereby one can "dump" the tank contents without going thru the macerator. But it is not a "pretty sight" doing that over some form of sewer drain. But it can be one in an emergency.
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:05 PM   #11
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That didn't work for me, I think I have a short in circuit 7. Every time I put a new 20 amp fuse in, it blows as soon as I turn the power back on.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:17 PM   #12
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Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for circuit 7? I can't find the exterior sewer light. Thanks
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:54 PM   #13
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Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for circuit 7? I can't find the exterior sewer light. Thanks

Don't think there is an exterior sewer light?

Before you install another fuse you have to free up your jammed Macerator pump. There is a rubber plug on the end of pump motor. Remove this plug and you will see a slotted screw head which you can turn with a screwdriver. Turn this to free up the jammed pump and then it should run with a new fuse installed.
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:41 AM   #14
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Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for circuit 7? I can't find the exterior sewer light. Thanks
There isn't a sewer light. I use a magnetic-mount waterproof light intended for use with above-ground pools, that I can stick to the side of the Interstate whenever I need extra light.
Amazon.com : Good Times Battery Operated Waterproof Magnetic Lights, 2-Pack : Swimming Pool Above Ground Lights : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Not only good for a sewer light on the street side, but also makes a great supplement to that wimpy porch light on the curb side that is so much dimmer than even a home night-light. Comes with a pushbutton remote control. The one I bought actually comes in a two-pack, with both of them working off the same remote so I set one aside without batteries in it as a spare and just use one.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:54 PM   #15
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Don't think there is an exterior sewer light?

Before you install another fuse you have to free up your jammed Macerator pump. There is a rubber plug on the end of pump motor. Remove this plug and you will see a slotted screw head which you can turn with a screwdriver. Turn this to free up the jammed pump and then it should run with a new fuse installed.
I turned it 10 or more times and it turns freely. Could it still be the pump?
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:42 AM   #16
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If pump turns freely and it still won't work with new fuse it could be pump or the switch. You have mentioned circuit 7, but that is for the dump valves. The macerated pump in on circuit 9 with a 20 amp fuse.


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Old 07-26-2014, 01:14 PM   #17
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If pump turns freely and it still won't work with new fuse it could be pump or the switch. You have mentioned circuit 7, but that is for the dump valves. The macerated pump in on circuit 9 with a 20 amp fuse.


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It can also be the circuit board holding the fuse. On our inaugural trip or MAC pump failed to operate. Verified fuse as good, manually turned the pump to insure it had not seized, for what ever reason, as it was new. Call AS and they overnighted a MAC pump to the dealer in Montana, which we changed course to meet-up with the pump. Time was critical as the holding tanks were filling up, even though we had been conservative on their use. Got to the dealer and pre briefed them on the situation. I asked them to use a VOM meter at the pump to verify power to the pump, as I did not travel with mine. Well, the pump is a day late getting to the dealer, the dealer had a half-hearted attitude or concern to get us rolling. Finally, late in day 2, the replacement pump was delivered to the dealership. I was told, not today. In the mean time we were staying down the street in a Holiday Hotel. Next morning I am at their door when they open. I felt at this point that my presence may expedite the repair. Nope, did not make a difference to them...at all! Finally, LATE in the day they tell me, 'we got the pump replaced and it is still not working'. I asked them again if they had checked for power at the pump.........deer-in-headlights! NOPE they had not! WTF! I was pissed and still am over their incompetence at even the basics. We were running short on time and short on capacity in the tanks. I said never mind we are out of here. I asked if they had a way to empty the tanks and they said they knew of no way. We made it home and I made an appointment with my selling dealer in Springfield, MO. Reliable RV. it is a 3.5 hour drive from my house and we had to leave it with them. They diagnosed the problem and gave me a choice of repairs. The problem was the fuse holder. They moved it down to and unused position and the pump worked. They asked if I wanted to replace the whole fuse panel (warranty) or was this OK? I opted not to have the fuse panel replaced. To this day all as worked properly thanks to the concern and skills of Relaible RV in Springfield.
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Old 07-27-2014, 01:34 AM   #18
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It can also be the circuit board holding the fuse. On our inaugural trip or MAC pump failed to operate. Verified fuse as good, manually turned the pump to insure it had not seized, for what ever reason, as it was new. Call AS and they overnighted a MAC pump to the dealer in Montana, which we changed course to meet-up with the pump. Time was critical as the holding tanks were filling up, even though we had been conservative on their use. Got to the dealer and pre briefed them on the situation. I asked them to use a VOM meter at the pump to verify power to the pump, as I did not travel with mine. Well, the pump is a day late getting to the dealer, the dealer had a half-hearted attitude or concern to get us rolling. Finally, late in day 2, the replacement pump was delivered to the dealership. I was told, not today. In the mean time we were staying down the street in a Holiday Hotel. Next morning I am at their door when they open. I felt at this point that my presence may expedite the repair. Nope, did not make a difference to them...at all! Finally, LATE in the day they tell me, 'we got the pump replaced and it is still not working'. I asked them again if they had checked for power at the pump.........deer-in-headlights! NOPE they had not! WTF! I was pissed and still am over their incompetence at even the basics. We were running short on time and short on capacity in the tanks. I said never mind we are out of here. I asked if they had a way to empty the tanks and they said they knew of no way. We made it home and I made an appointment with my selling dealer in Springfield, MO. Reliable RV. it is a 3.5 hour drive from my house and we had to leave it with them. They diagnosed the problem and gave me a choice of repairs. The problem was the fuse holder. They moved it down to and unused position and the pump worked. They asked if I wanted to replace the whole fuse panel (warranty) or was this OK? I opted not to have the fuse panel replaced. To this day all as worked properly thanks to the concern and skills of Relaible RV in Springfield.

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Old 07-27-2014, 01:40 AM   #19
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Sorry for blank reply. I hit the wrong button on this iPhone. Thanks Road Jager for the tip on yet another possible DC electrical issue. I carry a VOM in my tool box for troubleshooting.


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Old 07-27-2014, 06:32 AM   #20
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We had the same issue... We were on our way home still about 900 miles from home with full tanks... I go to empty them and the pump labors then BAM it stops. I go in side check the fuse and it was blown. Change the fuse out, and turn the switch and it popped again.. So I am sitting there in the middle of Louisiana it's hot and muggy and now I'm pissed, I am thinking how in the heck am I going to clean this thing out.... Looked online and saw this forum and the manual way to empty.... So I hand cranked for a while got the pump moving freely changed another fuse and tried again the pump works for a bit then the fuse pops...... At this point I am perplexed at why this keeps happening the toilet paper is RV paper I've never had a problem like this before it was very strange.... Anyhow between manually cranking it out and using the pump before it shut off I finally got the tanks emptied.... When we got into New Orleans and found a parking spot (we were just there to have lunch) I used the bathroom after my daughter and BOOM there it was the culprit of all my pump issues.... A PAPER TOWEL!!! She had been flushing paper towels.... One even got jammed in the black tank valve I couldn't close it to empty the gray tank I had to take the hose off and shined a flash light in and I could see a big ol piece of paper towel blocking the door from closing, that was a treat trying to get that out.... But I finally got it and everything is working fine now....
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