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Old 09-06-2018, 09:42 AM   #1
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Manual Black Tank Dump Question

Hi there, Full black tank & all motors working but nothing coming in to hose . Considering opening tank manually to see if that helps. BUT pamphlet doesn’t indicate where that stuff will go if opened manually. Anyone know? Will it go into the hose? Thx
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:01 AM   #2
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Do you hear the black tank valve operating when you hold the button in the open position? Does the red light come on at the black tank button when you hold the button in the open position? If both these things do not happen, there will be no sewage reaching the macerator pump.

Have you turned the valve at the end of the dump hose to the open position? Easy to forget.

It is possible that something has blocked the macerator. Was there something put down the toilet such as a feminine product? In my case, a tech left a shop rag in the plumbing and cost me a macerator replacement. Nothing should go down the toilet that has not been digested other than suitable toilet paper.

If the plumbing to the macerator is full of sewage, prepare for a messy time. The 3" hose to the macerator will have to be carefully opened over a suitable tub to catch the several gallons of sewage that is in that plumbing.

There are rebuild kits for the macerator or the entire pump can be replaced if necessary. There are UTube videos showing a rebuild of the macerator pump.
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:06 AM   #3
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Do you hear the black tank valve operating when you hold the button in the open position? Does the red light come on at the black tank button when you hold the button in the open position? If both these things do not happen, there will be no sewage reaching the macerator pump.



Have you turned the valve at the end of the dump hose to the open position? Easy to forget.



It is possible that something has blocked the macerator. Was there something put down the toilet such as a feminine product? In my case, a tech left a shop rag in the plumbing and cost me a macerator replacement. Nothing should go down the toilet that has not been digested other than suitable toilet paper.



If the plumbing to the macerator is full of sewage, prepare for a messy time. The 3" hose to the macerator will have to be carefully opened over a suitable tub to catch the several gallons of sewage that is in that plumbing.



There are rebuild kits for the macerator or the entire pump can be replaced if necessary. There are UTube videos showing a rebuild of the macerator pump.


Thanks. Nothing odd in tank. All motors running when I open and close tanks and turn macerator. Light on black tank button hasn’t worked for months but systems have been working. If I open tank manually will it release into the hose?
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:09 AM   #4
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Yes, you can get under the coach and manually open the valve. It will fill the 3" hose leading to the macerator, but it will not reach the 1" output hose unless the macerator is pumping. It is possible that the macerator pump has failed internally and is not turning the blades.
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:11 AM   #5
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Remember to fully extend the macerator hose. It can become kinked/pinched when it's wound back onto the reel.
On most models you can only have one valve open at once, so as Pahaska stated above, make sure the gray valve is closed, then listen for the black valve opening. On mine the red light doesn't always come on, but I can hear it opening.
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:45 AM   #6
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Yes, you can get under the coach and manually open the valve. It will fill the 3" hose leading to the macerator, but it will not reach the 1" output hose unless the macerator is pumping. It is possible that the macerator pump has failed internally and is not turning the blades.


Good to know. Thank you!
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Old 09-06-2018, 10:51 AM   #7
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Manual Black Tank Dump Question

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Remember to fully extend the macerator hose. It can become kinked/pinched when it's wound back onto the reel.
On most models you can only have one valve open at once, so as Pahaska stated above, make sure the gray valve is closed, then listen for the black valve opening. On mine the red light doesn't always come on, but I can hear it opening.


Thank you @UKDUDE & @Pahaska Solution: I took that irritating frame off the hose compartment which makes getting hose in and out more difficult. I then pulled hose almost completely out and it did seem to have an especially bad kink near the end but there was no substance in it so nothing had reached the hose. I then did what I should have done first: drive herky jerky. Now it works. It sure does clog easily! I use the right tissue, keep chems in it etc.
Oh well—getting the hang if it
Ps- taking that frame off was a BIG help. It’s staying off!
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Old 09-06-2018, 02:55 PM   #8
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Thank you @UKDUDE & @Pahaska Solution: I took that irritating frame off the hose compartment which makes getting hose in and out more difficult. I then pulled hose almost completely out and it did seem to have an especially bad kink near the end but there was no substance in it so nothing had reached the hose. I then did what I should have done first: drive herky jerky. Now it works. It sure does clog easily! I use the right tissue, keep chems in it etc.
Oh well—getting the hang if it
Ps- taking that frame off was a BIG help. It’s staying off!
CARPENC - I think the worse thing anyone can do is wind the hose back in to the reel haphazardly, such that it develops kinks and/or doesn't wind in a nice circular & evenly spaced/stacked fashion onto the reel. When I unwind the hose, I pull it all the way out BUT not too far out that it starts to wind unto itself and gets pinched by the hose clamp that connects the end of the hose to the assembly. You have to leave a few inches on the reel (approx 1/3 of full winding). I have marked that spot on the hose with bright paint so I know where to stop pulling. When I wind back in, I do it slowly to make sure hose is all relaxed, free of kinks, and stacks/overlaps evenly unto itself. You would be surprised how much more room there is in the reel for additional length of hose if it is stack nice & neat. Good luck.
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Old 09-06-2018, 03:02 PM   #9
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When I retract the hose, I perform the function of the level-wind mechanism on a fishing reel. I move my hand side to side to make sure the hose is distributed evenly.

That said, I wish the retract motor ran just a bit more slowly. It would make it easier to evenly distribute the windings. Maybe a 2-stage button with a fast and a slow retract.
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:20 PM   #10
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When I retract the hose, I perform the function of the level-wind mechanism on a fishing reel. I move my hand side to side to make sure the hose is distributed evenly.

That said, I wish the retract motor ran just a bit more slowly. It would make it easier to evenly distribute the windings. Maybe a 2-stage button with a fast and a slow retract.
JOHN - I like power assisted stuff, just for the cool factor. But I am willing to do without this power hose reel. Why? Coz I end up using switch as a momentary device due to motor speed being too fast for clean hose retraction. Judging by the time it takes me to wind hose using switch intermittently, I know I can wind it faster manually if given the option. I have wound garden hoses manually into a reel and done so faster, not to mention no risk of blown fuse if you impede motor too much.
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:41 PM   #11
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It would be nice to have a great big clock spring in there like in my air hose reel for my compressor. I can pull out the hose and it locks at that extension until I pull it a bit further and let it retract. It handles 50' of air hose just fine and the retraction is reasonably slow and steady.

Why can't the same thing be done for the dump hose? No motor. No fuses. Just a spring!
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Old 09-06-2018, 05:02 PM   #12
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Why can't the same thing be done for the dump hose? No motor. No fuses. Just a spring!
JOHN - Why? Because it's the same folks who decided it is just fine to have that ?? yr. old guy/gal risk shoulder separation with trying to close a huge/heavy manual sliding door. But that same guy/gal would need a power assisted hose? Huh? If there was such a wrong prioritization of power assist functions, this is one. The other ones being the power rear screen, the powershades, and lastly lack of power seats (at least driver with memory).
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:34 AM   #13
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After my experience I noticed it had been wound badly at the “end” . I had it almost completly unwound when it suddenly became “ free”— less difficult to unwind. Marking on the hose is good idea. Thanks
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Old 09-16-2018, 04:46 PM   #14
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Say rather "almost fully extend". If you fully extend you may overshoot and stress the connection of the hose to the drum, causing a leak. We did that. So now we have a piece of red tape on the hose that is visible when about 1 turn of hose is left on the drum.

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Remember to fully extend the macerator hose. It can become kinked/pinched when it's wound back onto the reel.
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Old 09-17-2018, 04:59 AM   #15
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Say rather "almost fully extend". If you fully extend you may overshoot and stress the connection of the hose to the drum, causing a leak. We did that. So now we have a piece of red tape on the hose that is visible when about 1 turn of hose is left on the drum.
I still need to do this... great suggestion.
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Old 05-06-2019, 02:01 PM   #16
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Manual Black Tank Dump Question

New Question re black tank on 2018 AI. Maserator was leakin and dealer says needs to be replaced. It has been almost 5 months & still waiting ( RVOne -Orlando/WP). In the meantime dealer says I need to clean it before bringing it in because they don’t have septic etc on site. So, How do you sell and “ repair” RVs without a place to dump? AND how do I clean it when it has stopped working all together ?
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Old 05-06-2019, 04:04 PM   #17
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AND how do I clean it when it has stopped working all together ?
I went through that when the Mercedes folks broke my plumbing and then left a shop rag in the pipes when they fixed it.

Old clothes, bucket or tub, screw driver, hose, water.

Loosen the clamps and let it drain in the bucket. Clean out everything with the hose.

You can buy a macerator from Amazon. When you have done the above, just change it yourself and save a buck. Best to run up on some ramps or blocks to work underneath.
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:51 PM   #18
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+1 on that. I think mine was $150. Not hard to replace, just tight space like everything else. Would have been easier if I had leveling blocks back then
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:44 AM   #19
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Need to replace my macerator hose due to several pin-hole leaks. I see two bolts on the underside. Appears that these two bolts hold a cover over the hose reel compartment. Looks like I need to remove the short section of hose leading from the macerator to the hose reel, then remove the two bolts and drop the cover. Then I will have access to the hose reel, and the hose clamp that connects the discharge hose to the hose reel. Is the above a correct diagnosis of how to replace the hose?

I could not find a 3/4" ID macerator hose on Amazon and hoses at big box stores appeared to be too stiff to wind well. So I ordered a 25' 'extension hose' from etrailer. I plan to use half of it, and save the other half for another replacement. Original hose if about 15' long - more than I've ever needed and a bit too much to wind up without jamming.
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:08 PM   #20
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That said, I wish the retract motor ran just a bit more slowly. It would make it easier to evenly distribute the windings. Maybe a 2-stage button with a fast and a slow retract.
On my 2014.5, the hose retract was way too fast. Airstream must be listening because on my 2018 the hose retracts at a very manageable rate to allow me to level-wind it in the reel.

I like the additional extend feature on the 2018, as well. On the 2014, it was just haul it out manually.

OTOH, the hose on my 2018 is a bit shorter than the hose of my 2014.5 was. It has made dumping problematical several times now where the sewer inlet was not well located.
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