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Old 03-24-2014, 07:57 PM   #15
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The RV warranty for Lifelines is 1 year replacement and 5 year pro-rate. If you are within the first 12 months, it should be replacement.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:39 PM   #16
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I remember seeing a reference to a 12 volt cutoff switch that can be installed to really disconnect all 12V+ loads - not just those that Airstrream decided to let us disconnect by way of their battery disconnect switch. Anybody recall the mfgr of that switch? I see three big positive wires coming from the battery box - one of them going to the Airstream cut-off switch, one to the Magnum, and one going elsewhere. I would have the battery box terminal feed into my new cutoff switch and have the three airstream cables come out of my new cutoff switch. Then no more need to hunt for mystery loads.

But... am I right in thinking that nothing needs 12V+ to avoid doing damage? For example, the AM solar charger? Is it OK to have no power to the Magnum? (Yes, I know it may not invert or charge without 12V into it to.) Turing my new switch off would be the last thing I do when putting it to bed for the winter and turning it on would be the first thing in the spring.

Appreciate the help anybody can give.
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
I remember seeing a reference to a 12 volt cutoff switch that can be installed to really disconnect all 12V+ loads - not just those that Airstrream decided to let us disconnect by way of their battery disconnect switch. Anybody recall the mfgr of that switch?
There are many such switches available. In our customized GWV Legend, I specified the Blue Sea ML-RBS:


Bluesea ML-RBS

Quote:
But... am I right in thinking that nothing needs 12V+ to avoid doing damage? For example, the AM solar charger? Is it OK to have no power to the Magnum? (Yes, I know it may not invert or charge without 12V into it to.) Turing my new switch off would be the last thing I do when putting it to bed for the winter and turning it on would be the first thing in the spring..
There is no problem disconnecting everything. Typically, however, the solar charger is connected directly to the battery, since it is a source not a sink of current, and you want the solar charger to continue to operate in order to keep you batteries topped-up and healthy.

You are correct that having such a switch is extremely convenient. The BlueSea works great, has both remote and manual control, and draws no steady-state current in either position. Recommended.
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:08 PM   #18
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Thanks, but I was thinking of a simple manual (knife?) switch or something of the sort. Seems that having a remote that draws power from the battery would defeat my reason for wanting the cut-off.
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:16 PM   #19
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Thanks, but I was thinking of a simple manual (knife?) switch or something of the sort. Seems that having a remote that draws power from the battery would defeat my reason for wanting the cut-off.
You should have a rotary battery disconnect switch on the panel below your rear lounge to the left of your 12VDC panel. Unfortunately, Airstream does NOT wire all of the 12VDC draw thru this switch, but it can be easily re-wired to do this.

I recently completed 2 comprehensive solar/ inverter/ battery upgrades to 2011 Interstate coaches, and the first thing that I did was to be certain that all of the 12VDC loads in the coach were wired thru and not around this switch.

Your inverter should have it's own battery disconnect switch placed between the class 'T' fuse (if you don't have one...you should definitely upgrade to one) and the inverter on the positive cable. Also, your inverter should be wired directly to your batteries and not to a terminal block or buss bar.
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:18 PM   #20
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I got a simple manual switch from Best Converters. I think it was about $20-$25
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:31 PM   #21
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Thanks for the advice Lewster. I was not sure if Airstream's manual switch could handle all the current. The biggest of the three wires coming from the battery box goes to the inverter. It goes through the T fuse - but there is no cutoff switch. One of the other two goes to the Airsteram cutoff switch. Are you suggesting to run the inverter cable (and other cable too) through the Airstream cutoff switch too? This seems too easy. I wonder why Airstream decided to run some battery power through their cut-off swtich and some not. I thought about adding a second cut-off switch for the two cables that do not go through the Airstream cutoff. I found one that is good for 180 A continuous. Should be plenty as 1000W/12V=80A. Thanks again for your advice.
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Old 10-26-2014, 03:03 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Thanks for the advice Lewster. I was not sure if Airstream's manual switch could handle all the current. The biggest of the three wires coming from the battery box goes to the inverter. It goes through the T fuse - but there is no cutoff switch. One of the other two goes to the Airsteram cutoff switch. Are you suggesting to run the inverter cable (and other cable too) through the Airstream cutoff switch too? This seems too easy. I wonder why Airstream decided to run some battery power through their cut-off swtich and some not. I thought about adding a second cut-off switch for the two cables that do not go through the Airstream cutoff. I found one that is good for 180 A continuous. Should be plenty as 1000W/12V=80A. Thanks again for your advice.
Yes and no............

The inverter should have a dedicated positive and negative cable set attached directly to the batteries. The inverter negative can go from the battery directly. The inverter positive should have a class 'T' fuse in the line within 18" of the battery positive. The inline disconnect switch for the inverter positive should be placed between the class 'T' fuse and the inverter's positive terminal.

All of the other coach positive loads can be re-routed to run thru your existing battery cut-off switch. I use that same style switch as a second, separate inverter cutoff also.
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