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Old 10-16-2015, 05:56 AM   #15
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Lug nut or cover?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff64 View Post
The post below is from an earlier thread. They've been on the AI for over a year now and still look new.

After searching for weeks for a suitable lug nut for the Sprinter I believe I've finally found them. I ordered an acorn style nut with a washer designed to fit it. The lug nuts are Gorilla brand heat treated and the washers are Gorilla brand as well. I found the at a company called Brandsport in Eugene Oregon. I dealt with Eric there who was very helpful in working with me to come up with a solution. The lug nut part # is GRLA-91148HT The washer part no. is GRLA-77916 Eric's email address is eric@brandsport.com No more dealing with those caps falling off. I found one the other day in my driveway that had been run over
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So are these actual lug nuts? Or covers? If lug nuts, did you have to take your RV in at a tire shop to get all of the lugs replaced? About how much was it to have them all replaced?
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:44 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianKrueger View Post
Although it states on that page: "Lug nut covers will not work on Mercedes version." This would only work for the Dodge Sprinter van.

Interesting that there is a difference between the two. Why? Who knows. But, that set up will work on Sprinters that have the Alcoa wheels.
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianKrueger View Post
So are these actual lug nuts? Or covers? If lug nuts, did you have to take your RV in at a tire shop to get all of the lugs replaced? About how much was it to have them all replaced?

Those are actual lug nuts that replace the factory nuts and aftermarket lug nut chrome covers. I wouldn't take that to a tire shop. Just DIY in your driveway one or several nuts at a time.

I actually like that solution better than the cheapo covers. May have to email the fellow referenced in Jeff's post.
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Old 12-05-2016, 01:57 AM   #18
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Closed chrome lug nuts for a Sprinter?

My wife and I just purchased a 2011 Airstream Interstate built on a 2008 Freightliner chassis. Several of the chrome lug nut covers have come off and replacing the covers looks like a losing battle. I found a post (from 2014) by Boxster1971 identifying

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28563-611-295.aspx?

as the factory lug nuts for Airstream Interstates, but Dorman only includes first generation Dodge Sprinters (both 2500 and 3500 models) from 2003 to 2006 in the applications list for part 611-295. I presume that Boxster1971 is correct and that Dorman's application list is incomplete. According the various posts that I have seen on this forum, when chrome covers are installed over the factory lug nuts, the outside diameter of the lug nuts increases from 19mm to 21mm.

Dorman also lists at least two closed, chrome lug nuts, namely 611-264 and 611-268, that meet the specifications listed by Boxter1971 EXCEPT for the hex size and length. Both of these closed chrome lug nuts have a hex size of 21mm (matching the factory lug nuts plus cap covers). Their respective lengths are 51.83mm and 52.5mm, about 3/4" longer than the factory nuts plus covers, which I presume is a disadvantage. The application lists for both lug nuts only include Ford F250 and F350 models. The lists overlap but are not identical which seems strange. Are the any reasons why these lug nuts would not work on an Airstream Interstate?
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Old 12-16-2016, 12:51 AM   #19
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I did more searching and found the following closed (sometimes called "dome" or "acorn") lug nuts with integrated washers (like the OEM Sprinter lug nuts):

http://prime-industries.myshopify.co...her-1-1-16-hex

which I purchased instead of either of Dorman products, because the Prime Industries nuts clearly included integrated washers that would not score the wheels as the nuts were tightened. I think the black bases on the Dorman lug nuts are probably integrated washers as well but the online pictures were ambiguous and I have not had the opportunity to actually examine the nuts. The Dorman nuts are smaller than the Prime Industries nuts that I bought which may be an advantage. The Prime Industries nuts look rather imposing on the front wheels of our RV.

Since many of the lug nuts sold by Prime Industries are stainless steel, I was hoping that the nuts I purchased would be as well, but they are chrome plated. Time will tell how well that plating holds up. I paid a total of about $50 including shipping for 24 lug nuts, which compares favorably with the cost of the washers in the washer + conical lug nut system suggested by Jeff64. I am not claiming that the Prime Industries closed end lug nuts that I bought are superior to washers + conical lug nuts. I chose the Prime Industries option because it was less expensive and I wanted to avoid dealing with separate washers and lug nuts. When I buy new tires for my RV at Discount Tire or equivalent, the lug nuts will not appreciably differ from those on my Honda Civic SI.

Incidentally, I found the new lug nuts much easier to tighten than the OEM nuts because their contact area with a deep socket (27mm) is much larger and less likely to slip. Some of the OEM lug nuts that I removed already had rusty, rounded corners yet my RV only has 20K miles on the odometer.

After replacing all of the OEM nuts and covers with closed end nuts, I am amazed that Airstream Interstate owners tolerate the separate lug-nut-and-cover system because it makes it difficult to maintain lug nut torque specifications and perform any maintenance operations (like changing a tire) that involve removing a wheel. Earlier today, I decided to increase the torque on my new lug nuts from 130 lb-ft to 140 lb-ft, which took about two minutes. With the Alcoa lug nut and cover system, it would take much longer, perhaps as much as half an hour if done conscientiously. Removing and placing the covers is tedious, time-consuming process and the covers inevitably get lost. Our used 2010 Airstream Interstate [my reference to purchasing a 2011 Airstream Interstate in my earlierposting was incorrect] was missing about six covers when we purchased it; it was impeccably maintained otherwise.

At any rate, there are integral, closed end lug nuts replacements available for the OEM lug open lug nuts + covers.
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Old 12-16-2016, 09:23 AM   #20
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Good information - thanks for posting. Is there a reason you increased the lug nut torque above the recommended 130 ft/lbs?


- - Mike
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:06 PM   #21
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Most mfg. recommend checking the torque on aluminum wheels after 50 miles. Don't remember if Airstream addresses this.
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Old 12-17-2016, 02:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
Good information - thanks for posting. Is there a reason you increased the lug nut torque above the recommended 130 ft/lbs?


- - Mike
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I just checked my owner's manual; turns out the specified lug nut torque on 3500 Sprinter is 133 lb-ft (180 Nm) to be precise.
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:22 AM   #23
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Wheel torque for Alcoa Wheels on 2010 Interstate

The information in the owner's manuals for my 2010 Airstream Interstate is a bit confusing. I originally relied on the 133 lb-ft figure given on page C-6 but when I subsequently searched the manual for torque specifications for aluminum wheels, I found the following on page J-1 near the back of the manual:

--------------------------------------------------
Steel Wheels: 133 Lbf/ Ft. + or - 14 Lbf. /Ft.
Aluminum Wheels: 140 Lbf/Ft.
--------------------------------------------------

This entry appears to be the only torque information specifically for the Alcoa aluminum wheels anywhere in the manual.

My 2010 Airstream Interstate is built on a 2008 Freightliner Sprinter 3500 chassis. According to p. 625 of my 2008 Freightliner manual (which is essentially identical to a 2008 Dodge Sprinter manual), the proper torque for steel wheels is 133 lb-ft, but there is no specification for Alcoa aluminum wheels or similar OE equipment. According to the table on this page, alloy wheels were available from the factory on the Sprinter 2500 but not the Sprinter 3500. Hence, I concluded that I should rely on the torque specifications for aluminum wheels given the AI owner's manual.

Given this information, I re-torqued my wheels (using my new closed end lug nuts) to 140 lb-ft. When I realized that I should change the torque on my wheel nuts from 133 lb-ft to 140 lb-ft, I was very glad that I had replaced the open lug nuts + covers on my AI with closed end lug nuts.
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:46 AM   #24
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Does it say anything about retorquing after a specified mileage?
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponderosaTX View Post
The information in the owner's manuals for my 2010 Airstream Interstate is a bit confusing. I originally relied on the 133 lb-ft figure given on page C-6 but when I subsequently searched the manual for torque specifications for aluminum wheels, I found the following on page J-1 near the back of the manual:

--------------------------------------------------
Steel Wheels: 133 Lbf/ Ft. + or - 14 Lbf. /Ft.
Aluminum Wheels: 140 Lbf/Ft.
--------------------------------------------------

This entry appears to be the only torque information specifically for the Alcoa aluminum wheels anywhere in the manual.

My 2010 Airstream Interstate is built on a 2008 Freightliner Sprinter 3500 chassis. According to p. 625 of my 2008 Freightliner manual (which is essentially identical to a 2008 Dodge Sprinter manual), the proper torque for steel wheels is 133 lb-ft, but there is no specification for Alcoa aluminum wheels or similar OE equipment. According to the table on this page, alloy wheels were available from the factory on the Sprinter 2500 but not the Sprinter 3500. Hence, I concluded that I should rely on the torque specifications for aluminum wheels given the AI owner's manual...
Thanks for the details. The Interstate owner manual that came with my 2013 model has the same exact info. I don't think there is much to worry about between 133 or 140 ft/lb torque settings as the wheels on our 3500 Sprinter models are all hub piloted and the lug nuts just hold the wheel on while the hub shoulders keep the wheel located and carry the weight. Also the steel vs. alloy settings don't make much sense when you consider that the rear duals are a combination of steel inner and alloy outer wheels.

I did look in my 2012 Sprinter owner manual and it clearly says 133 ft/lb for lug nuts. I have no idea where Airstream came up with the 140 value in our older Interstate manuals. The more recent Interstate owner manuals, like 2016, only have the 133 value.

I've attached the relevant pages from the 2012 Sprinter and 2016 Interstate manuals.

73shark - you can see in these pages that there are several comments on re-torqueing after either 30 miles or 600 miles for newly painted wheels
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