LP external toggle switch problem

[brittanylv]

Hello,

We recently bought a used 2013 AI Extended last week and are taking it on the road. We are new to RVing and hope someone can help us with this problem:

My husband ran over some road debris yesterday and we just realized that the external toggle switch for the LP is broken. So now we are thousands of miles from home and can't use our generator. The AI dealer doesn't carry this part but it seems to be a simple toggle switch. Does anyone know what amperage it is so maybe we can just buy one from a local auto store and switch it out ourselves?

Thanks,
Brittany

[73shark]

Welcome to the Air Forums.

I believe the valve current is less than 1 amp. I'd get a 2 amp switch to be on the safe side. Radio Shack or auto parts store should have something to fit.

If not, cut the wires, strip, and twist them together as a Macgyver fix. Wouldn't hurt to tape them.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by 73shark

I believe the valve current is less than 1 amp. I'd get a 2 amp switch to be on the safe side. Radio Shack or auto parts store should have something to fit.

You believe right. If left on, the drain on the house batteries is 18 amp/hours in a 24-hour day, so it's about 0.75 amps actual draw.

[Jammer]

Just wrap the wires together and tape them until a more permanent repair has been made.

Very few other RVs have such a switch. They're not necessary.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Just wrap the wires together and tape them until a more permanent repair has been made.

Very few other RVs have such a switch. They're not necessary.

News to me. NFPA 58, which all 50 states have adapted and adopted as their propane standards— although not all the same edition— requires the propane to be shut off by that switch before the tank is refilled. RVs with portable propane cylinders don't have it; those cylinders are completely disconnected and removed to refill, but built-in tanks like on the Interstate all have the off switch.

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Just wrap the wires together and tape them until a more permanent repair has been made.

Very few other RVs have such a switch. They're not necessary.

I believe most, if not all, states require the valve to the appliances be accessible near the fill port to prevent over pressurizing the internal plumbing. Which is why some of us added a switch inside in series rather than replacing the external switch.

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

News to me. NFPA 58, which all 50 states have adapted and adopted as their propane standards— although not all the same edition— requires the propane to be shut off by that switch before the tank is refilled. RVs with portable propane cylinders don't have it; those cylinders are completely disconnected and removed to refill, but built-in tanks like on the Interstate all have the off switch.

I'm just too slow.

Is my logic as to why correct?

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by 73shark

I'm just too slow.

de nada. You at least gave a reason (to prevent over-pressure in the propane lines) which I didn't include in my response. Value added.

There is an additional reason, though… the technician shutting off the propane himself verifies by doing so that all propane-using appliances are OFF before adding propane, thus ensuring there's no flare-up at the appliance.

[toskeysam]

Hmmmm...just added a 2 amp toggle switch to my toolbag, right next to a box of fuses.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Just wrap the wires together and tape them until a more permanent repair has been made.

Very few other RVs have such a switch. They're not necessary.

Jammer -- your 30' Classic has a propane shut-off valves right on your tanks up front. This switch on an Interstate performs the same function via an electric solenoid operated shut-off valve and is very necessary. All propane systems need a shut-off at the tank.

Originally Posted by toskeysam

Hmmmm...just added a 2 amp toggle switch to my toolbag, right next to a box of fuses.

This is another good reason to have a second propane valve switch in series on the inside of your Interstate. Then if you do rip off that low hanging switch your can just tie the wires together and control the propane valve from the inside.

This low hanging propane fill panel is a real design flaw on Airstreams part. They need to change this design before someone rips off the fill or vent hose and has a propane leak that starts a fire and destroys the whole rig. They have already had recalls on Interstates for design problems that are less severe than the risks created by this propane fill panel.

The panel is 5 inches from the ground and subject to damage from curbs, potholes and road debris.

My recent incident resulted in ripping off the plastic cover and the quick-connect fitting. BTW the cover is $85 from Airstream. I bought a replacement quick-connect fitting for $15.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

News to me. NFPA 58, which all 50 states have adapted and adopted as their propane standards— although not all the same edition— requires the propane to be shut off by that switch before the tank is refilled. RVs with portable propane cylinders don't have it; those cylinders are completely disconnected and removed to refill, but built-in tanks like on the Interstate all have the off switch.

I'm confused. The tank valve isn't good enough?

[73shark]

The electric valve is to isolate the appliances from the propane system during the filling process.

[J. Morgan]

The problem is that the tank valve is analog, the switch is digital and therefore better, a bureaucrat has spoken, we therefore must click our heels just so.

<sarcasm>

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I'm confused. The tank valve isn't good enough?

Maybe you are confused. We're talking about built-in ASTM tanks tucked up underneath an Interstate, not a DOT cylinder perched on the tongue of a trailer. The tank valve is unreachable without jacking up the van and getting underneath, which is why a solenoid is used.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

The problem is that the tank valve is analog, the switch is digital and therefore better, a bureaucrat has spoken, we therefore must click our heels just so.

<sarcasm>

<ignoring sarcasm>Switch is analog as well. It's a simple toggle. The actual valve is underneath, normally held closed by a powerful spring. When you flip on the switch, you power up an electromagnetic solenoid that pulls the valve open against the spring tension, and holds the valve open while drawing 0.75 amps.

[toskeysam]

Prot.... minor point, meant in jest only....... did you mean to type ASME tank instead of ASTM tank? I've been typing acronyms also for the past 40 years...and sometimes my fingers do the walking into their own worlds....

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by toskeysam

Prot.... minor point, meant in jest only....... did you mean to type ASME tank instead of ASTM tank? I've been typing acronyms also for the past 40 years...and sometimes my fingers do the walking into their own worlds....

Yes. I did mean ASME. Thank you.

[J. Morgan]

A simple toggle essentially yields a 1 or a 0, I say it is digital.

[toskeysam]

Kinda reminds me of arguments with buyers, "maximum,minimum,shall,will, and all those other phrases that drive us engineers to distraction.😁😁😁

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

The tank valve is unreachable without jacking up the van and getting underneath

This is the fundamental design error that I missed.

Many motorhomes have ASME tanks with accessible, manual tank valves.