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Old 05-19-2015, 06:18 AM   #1
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Leveling Sprinter

Probably silly question. Can do it with planks I guess. But...is there a better way, plastic wedges or whatever?

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Old 05-19-2015, 06:41 AM   #2
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Depending on how much your looking to spend, there are automatic leveling solutions for the sprinter chassis. My mom had a Revo, and had a system fitted to her coach. Push of a button, and the coach leveled out...Wasn't cheap, but it was effective. She didn't have to try and carry around leveling blocks or 2x4s to try and level out the coach. Plus, no crawling under the RV to get them in the right places to work.
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:46 AM   #3
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Leveling Sprinter

I carry 12 of these plus a bubble level in the interstate. So far I have only used them once at Gouldings campground in Monument Valley.

Never know when you might need them but they also work quite well for creating some extra crawl space when you have to do something under the coach. Work also well if you need to manipulate the angle to drain the water tank fully.
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:55 PM   #4
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Depending on how much your looking to spend, there are automatic leveling solutions for the sprinter chassis. My mom had a Revo, and had a system fitted to her coach. Push of a button, and the coach leveled out...Wasn't cheap, but it was effective.
I don't need leveling often enough to pay over three grand to have automatic levelers mounted. I'd have to give up about a year's worth of camping trips just to pay for the levelers!

Those yellow lego blocks work for me just fine, when coupled with the interlocking chocks to match:
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:01 PM   #5
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We've used these for our trailer and I don't see why they wouldn't work for a Class B motorhome.

3604 - Camper Leveler

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Old 05-19-2015, 07:18 PM   #6
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We've used these for our trailer and I don't see why they wouldn't work for a Class B motorhome.

3604 - Camper Leveler

Attachment 238825
Not sure I'd trust them on a Sprinter van. Consider this scenario: You're in a campsite where the back end of the van is low. You have four of these funky curved levelers, so you put one under each rear wheel and drive up onto them. Then you lock the parking brake, and get out to put the wedges under to lock the curved pieces into position. Only problem is, the parking brake (and placing the transmission in Park) doesn't lock the front wheels— which weren't chocked yet because you were driving up onto the levelers— so the van rolls off the curved pieces and crushes your hand when you try to insert the wedges. Recipe for disaster unless you have at least one rear corner at ground level.

On a trailer, you only have to put leveling blocks under one side, and front-to-back leveling is handled by the tongue jack. On a van, the only leveling you have is by means of whatever blocks you put under the tires, which you may have to do on up to three corners. I want to put blocks under mine that I'm sure will not move around after I've driven up onto them. These won't do the trick.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:03 PM   #7
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Not sure how the RV is going to roll off the levelers under the rear duals and crush your hand when it's in Park and the parking brake has been set. Slide off maybe.

But I agree that this type of leveler is better suited for trailers.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:44 PM   #8
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Not sure how the RV is going to roll off the levelers under the rear duals and crush your hand when it's in Park and the parking brake has been set. Slide off maybe.
The levelers nvestysly suggested are curved. If the parking brake only locks the wheels against the levelers and not against the ground, that does not prevent the levelers themselves from rocking— until you stick the wedges under them with your hand… or maybe your foot if you kick the wedges into place.

You're welcome to try those levelers yourself, and I'll be very interested in knowing how they work. But I'm not going to try them on my Interstate; I'm a pessimist when it comes to safety.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:41 PM   #9
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I can not believe some of the crazy scary ramps and blocks and wedges and chocks that peoples use to level their RVs.

WHY ARE PEOPLE TRYING TO LEVEL THEIR RVs?????????????

Why don't they level the ground ? ( rhetorical ) ( Think about it )

Hint…level your blocks before you drive up on to them.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:32 PM   #10
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I only ever use the interlocking lego-type blocks on the front wheels. I make sure the front of the AI is never higher than the rear, since we could never sleep with our heads lower than our feet!
So its just a matter of how many levels of blocks for each front wheel to get it more or less level side-to side, and only very approximately level front to back.
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:11 AM   #11
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I've seen this done, dig a hole to lower one side, not allowed most anywhere. . Jim
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:22 AM   #12
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Leveling Sprinter

I've seen some crazy leveling set ups. Guess mostly because of rigs with gas absorption refrigerators.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:16 PM   #13
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This is one of those purchases I held off on making until I was sure it would serve a purpose. And that it does. Given that our Interstate model has full-height foot door access in the back, I've discovered that it's much more efficient to load it through the rear end. Which requires me to back into our driveway rather that going in nose-first. Which requires that I have levelers to shallow up the transition from the street to the driveway (I tried to get by without them, but I scraped when fully loaded).

And given that I made the purchase for that purpose, I might as well now level the Interstate while it sits in the driveway, too. No more refrigerator slamming shut on my skull as I'm trying to pack it. Well worth the money.

I bought the Valterra stackers because I was impatient and that's what they had on the shelf at Holiday World.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:09 AM   #14
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These are great for the dual axles in the back:

Amazon.com: Camco 44525 Brown FasTen Leveling Block with T-Handle, 4x2 (Pack of 10): Automotive

They also work in the front.
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Old 10-12-2015, 03:59 PM   #15
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On the first night out on our recent trip to the west I found these wedges abandoned on our lot for the night. Normally I find the front to be low. Driving onto these wedges worked well to make things level.
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Old 10-18-2015, 05:21 PM   #16
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Saying the same thing again from a new angle:

Unless you plan to spend all of your Interstate time in rallies, commercial campgrounds, and Cracker Barrel parking lots, I *strongly* recommend that you carry a leveling block set.

This photo should speak for itself. It was taken in Sam Houston National Forest where we found the entrance to the only available overflow campground "speed bumped" by a sloppily made, pushed-up mound of limestone gravel fill (our government at work).

The radius of curvature (if it could be called that) was different on each side, such that I managed to get INTO the campground with only a minor insult to my skid plates, but getting back OUT again was not going to happen without the assistance of the blocks (not nose-first, at least). The rate-limiting factor on the exit became the engine exhaust line rather than the skid plates.

Sprinter's wheel base is very long and unforgiving in scenarios like this. Then there's all that extra stuff slung under the chassis. I can see how that ground clearance is going to be an ongoing hassle. I will go nowhere from now on without my leveling stack under the rear couch of the Interstate.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:46 PM   #17
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This is an old thread- but since I recently got my leveling system working figured I chime in.

My 2006 AI had a ‘Big Foot’ fully automatic leveling system installed before I got it. But someone had pulled the jacks off.
Well, since everything else was still there, I decided I’d take a chance and but new jacks and make it work.
These are double-acting jacks, so no spring to retract them, but rather hydraulic pressure. I’ve heard of guys having the spring type jacks get stuck.

Anyway, I figured out what I need to get, installed them, (had to get two new hoses made) and tried it out.
Works great! Push a button and it automatically levels it. of course only if within the range of the jacks- but some blocks could be used if more lift needed.
Mine sits lower at front, and generally it works really well just as it is. Not only does everything drain correctly, but fridge works and it is more stable also.

They don’t make a setup for the 2500, but still make a ‘kit’ for the 3500 (mine is a 2500).
Probably way more $$ than most would want to spend, but it certainly is a great setup. (Plus I can change tyres with no jack)

Mark
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Old 10-02-2017, 08:30 PM   #18
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Would be nice to have but boy, $4,100??? Man that is expensive!

http://www.thebigfootleveler.com/4-p...ic-system.html
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Old 10-02-2017, 08:51 PM   #19
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It is $3600 for the Sprinter- but I agree. Still expensive.
(It just cost me new jacks, and they gave me a break on those).

http://www.thebigfootleveler.com/aut...benz-3500.html
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Old 10-09-2017, 05:09 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by nvestysly View Post
We've used these for our trailer and I don't see why they wouldn't work for a Class B motorhome.

3604 - Camper Leveler

Attachment 238825
The Fit RV has done a review on these curved leveling things. It would be worth your time to watch it on youtube.
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