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X New Yorker · 03-08-2015, 02:08 PM

Hi Folks. Newbie question - I have heard that I need to have these and that when I park (overnight or camping), I should use these to make sure that the RV is level. Can somebody tell me why because I have no problem being a little tilted, but l'm hearing that my 2013 Interstate may be a tad more sensitive? If I really need these, what are the best and how many do I need of them? Thanks.

AWCHIEF · 03-08-2015, 02:09 PM

The frig needs to be level to work properly.

AnnArborBob · 03-08-2015, 02:26 PM

If you have an adsorption type of refrigerator, it needs to be level when operating or it may get damaged. That is the type of fridge installed in the trailers. I believe that the the Interstates use a 12v/120v fridge that has a small "residential style" compressor. That type of unit may not be quite as sensitive to being level as the adsorption type.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-08-2015, 02:59 PM

I've been a little "tilted" all my life....SFSG

It was a bigger concern with our 63 Safari, it did need to be level....the Classic not so much.

Just be sure fore & aft is good and that you don't roll out of bed.

Trial & error will tell you.

Bob

UKDUDE · 03-08-2015, 03:08 PM

The fridge doesn't need to be level since its a compressor type in the Interstate. I have a plastic bag of 10 blocks but rarely use them. More for personal comfort and the food not spilling off the table. And I don't want to sleep with my head lower than my feet.

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X New Yorker · 03-08-2015, 03:24 PM

I think I may be OK as UKDUDE and I have similar fridges. Is the fridge the only concern (and not rolling out of the bed)? Thank you all!

Lily&Me · 03-08-2015, 03:40 PM

8 years with the Interstate, never had leveling blocks and never needed them.

Nor have we ever had problems with the frig not working if we found ourselves not 100%, either way.

Unless you have a really awful site....and sometimes you get those

.....a bit of manuevering generally gets the job done satisfactorily.

One of the many advantages of being small.

Maggie

terryV · 03-08-2015, 03:44 PM

Somewhere in the late '80s (maybe even earlier) they sterted making fridges that weren't nearly so sensitive to off level. Everyone used to carry 2X6 or 2X8 boards for leveling back then. The plastic "lego" blocks are lighter and don't hold moisture.

Now, if your doors don't swing open on their own, you can cook without stuff running out of the pan, and you don't fall out of bed when you roll over, you're probably OK.

The leveling blocks come in handy when you are more un-level than you like, and you can also use them as chocks to keep the trailer from rolling downhill. You can also put them under the stabilizing jacks if you are over mud or sand to keep them from sinking.

I carry two sets of 10 with me. I don't use them very often, but when I do need them, they are worth the price.

Protagonist · 03-08-2015, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X New Yorker

Hi Folks. Newbie question - I have heard that I need to have these and that when I park (overnight or camping), I should use these to make sure that the RV is level. Can somebody tell me why because I have no problem being a little tilted, but l'm hearing that my 2013 Interstate may be a tad more sensitive? If I really need these, what are the best and how many do I need of them? Thanks.

I have leveling blocks, and have used them on more than one occasion. If the van isn't quite level I usually don't bother, but I have stayed at campgrounds where the slope of the ground was enough to be uncomfortable.

For side-to-side leveling if the driver's side is slightly low I leave it alone because that improves drainage on my shower and galley sink, but if the driver's side is high then water ponds in the sink and shower.

For fore-and-aft leveling my rule is, if the sliding side door is somewhere between fully open and fully closed, and the slope is enough that it tries to slide the rest of the way open or closed on its own due to gravity, then I need to level it.

The Nova Kool fridge is completely unaffected by whether it's level; that's only for ammonia-cycle propane-fired fridges, not all-electric ones.

Most campgrounds I've stayed at in the past three years have been level enough not to need leveling block, but I do use the leveling blocks often enough to make it worth carrying them around. By the way, if you have to block up a rear tire you have to block both rear tires on that corner.

Leveling is the one and only time I envy trailer owners, who can use their tongue jack and stabilizers for fore-and-aft leveling, and only need blocks for side-to-side leveling.

As for what's best, the "lego block" style gives you a wider range of adjustment than most and includes wheel chocks to keep you from driving right off the blocks again if you goose the accelerator too much getting onto them. Plus they stack in a cube that fits behind the rear sofa when you're not using them. At Eisenhower State Park in Texas, I needed four sets of blocks to level my van, one set under each rear tire. The park was full up and I didn't have to option of moving to a site that was more level; that's one reason the site was still available in the first place, I think.

InterBlog · 03-09-2015, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lily&Me

...
Nor have we ever had problems with the frig not working if we found ourselves not 100%, either way....
Maggie

I've course I've heard this many, many times about the older absorption fridges, but the problem is, I've never heard anyone say HOW un-level it has to be before a fridge problem is created. It's on my list of things to determine conclusively but I have not yet. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

overlander63 · 03-09-2015, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InterBlog

I've course I've heard this many, many times about the older absorption fridges, but the problem is, I've never heard anyone say HOW un-level it has to be before a fridge problem is created. It's on my list of things to determine conclusively but I have not yet. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

For the absorption fridges, anything less than a half-bubble off plumb is usually good enough. If you're comfortable, they're comfortable. If you roll out of bed in the middle of the night, and your coffee cup slides off the table, you should probably do some leveling.

xrvr · 03-09-2015, 06:11 AM

If you can get up in the middles of the night in darkness from a sound sleep and you don't fall to one side or the other, you are probably level enough. Yuk, Yuk! Peace, jim

m.hony · 03-09-2015, 10:30 AM

You don't need leveling blocks often, but occasionally you come across that old ghetto campground that was built in the 50's or 60's and all the pads are un-level to the point you will roll outta bed- that trailer will have a severe lean to the north- condensation will not drain properly from the a/c or refrigerator-

m.hony · 03-09-2015, 10:34 AM

99.9% of the time you won't need 'em, but on site #1 George Payne Cossar State Park-
Or site #26 Trace State Park-
I don't think you ever need them at a Corps of Engineers park-

Lily&Me · 03-09-2015, 11:27 AM

When our Interstate was brand new, we met some friends at a conservation area and parked on a steep incline to be near them......had a problem then, not since.

You have to be very un-level for the frig not to work, and more un-level than you would be comfortable with, anyway.

If it's good for you, should be good for the frig.

I actually don't think I have ever seen a Class B using leveling blocks.

Maggie

B_Pi · 03-09-2015, 11:28 AM

It is not all that important except when/if you get a liquid spill on the counters in galley or head and water etc. runs off onto floor.
At first, I did not bother to level if just a couple of inches difference side-to-side and we were just camping for a few days before moving on, but I almost always would set good front-to-back leveling. I try to set it as level possible for long stays though.
With time, you will find that leveling is not difficult at all and you just back one side or the other of the trailer up onto your boards/blocks or whatever.
I don't think I have ever used anything thicker than maybe 2" - 3" under either set of tires. I just carry some short pieces of 2-1/2" X 12" lumber for this.

Protagonist · 03-09-2015, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B_Pi

With time, you will find that leveling is not difficult at all and you just back one side or the other of the trailer up onto your boards/blocks or whatever.
I don't think I have ever used anything thicker than maybe 2" - 3" under either set of tires. I just carry some short pieces of 2-1/2" X 12" lumber for this.

This is the Sprinter and B-van subforum, and the OP owns an Interstate, so advice regarding a trailer might be of use to some readers, but likely not to the OP.

demijac · 03-09-2015, 01:56 PM

The three main uses are for campsites that are way off level side to side, pads for the four stabilizers, and raising the trailer a bit when changing tires. They also make great knee pads if you are doing work outside the trailer in sloppy conditions. We bought two ten packs of lego blocks. 95% of the time, one pack of ten has been sufficient for our needs.

Doc Foster · 03-09-2015, 02:26 PM

Lynxlevelers RV Leveling Kit - Walmart.com

RV Leveling Blocks, Set of 10 - Four Corners D11-133 - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World

Nuvite-F · 03-09-2015, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InterBlog

I've course I've heard this many, many times about the older absorption fridges, but the problem is, I've never heard anyone say HOW un-level it has to be before a fridge problem is created. It's on my list of things to determine conclusively but I have not yet. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

If you look at the back of your fridge you will see that the condenser (absorber?) tubes run at a slight angle to allow condensate to trickle down by gravity. If those tubes are level, or worse, reversed (running uphill) the refrigerator will not work and, I am told, can be permanently damaged. With the usual refrigerator installation the absorber tubes run fore-and-aft so that means it's fore-and-aft level that's important.

I also understand that current refrigerators are more tolerant of this than older models.