Visit our Popular Forums

paullovern · 05-20-2014, 04:11 PM

We have a 2013 AI ext lounge model with a magnum mms1012 inverter/charger. Can someone tell me where the inverter is physically located? I am considering replacing the airstream supplied remote with a magnum advanced remote, a battery monitor kit and an auto generator start. Has anyone had experience with this upgrade?

toskeysam · 05-20-2014, 05:32 PM

Just picked up my 2013 EXT from the shop. They installed the ME-RC remote and the battery monitor kit. One day in, it looks like a wise decision to so the upgrade. BTW, your inverter/charger is under the couch, bolted to the rear panel.

toskeysam · 05-21-2014, 07:21 AM

The upgraded remote that I installed was the ME-RC50. Also added the ME-BMK battery monitor kit (WITH shunt). I had installed the battery temperature probe installed earlier. The remote uses the same data cable from the inverter/charger so that is no problem. The panel cutout needs to be enlarged for the new remote.
When the battery monitor is installed, it has a data cable that hooks up to the inverter/charger...WARNING...if you have installed the Magnum battery temperature monitor like I did...you will notice you need three comm ports, but the inv/chg only has two. Fortunately, Magnum includes a "splitter' in the battery monitor kit to allow you to hook the battery monitor, the battery temperature monitor, and the remote data cable to the inv/chg.
The upgraded control is great! I have direct button control of items that I used to have to page through layers of the menu to access.

lewster · 05-21-2014, 07:42 AM

Great choice! I only use Magnum's ME-RC full function remote, and sometimes their ME-ARC advanced remote in my inverter installations. The ME-RC, coupled with their battery monitor kit (ME-BMK) give you a fully integrated system to operate your inverter and get all the necessary information about your battery condition in real time.

I have no idea why Airstream chooses not to include the battery temperature sensor, as it is very important for proper battery charging, but then, they stiii include a single voltage converter in $90,000 trailers!

toskeysam · 05-23-2014, 03:08 PM

Hmmmmmm.....hit the road immediately after picking the van up from the shop. I have been reading the ME-RC manual, and the monitor manual. The tech appears to have the setup right, battery type, etc..... The system is in its initial phase of establishing charge efficiency and other items. Something really strange has shown up on the screen. When I check amp hrs I/O it tells me I have put 27000 amphrs into the batteries.......oh really..... When I check the battery voltage, it looks correct. When I check battery current it tells me I have ~174. Amps DC going into the batteries......hmmmmm. If that were the case, I would expect something to be smoking, but inv/chg temp is only about 92 deg.

I guess this question is for "lewster". Is this typical for initial installation? Is it something that may correct itself when the first full charge is finished? Everything else seems to be fine. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

lewster · 05-23-2014, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toskeysam

Hmmmmmm.....hit the road immediately after picking the van up from the shop. I have been reading the ME-RC manual, and the monitor manual. The tech appears to have the setup right, battery type, etc..... The system is in its initial phase of establishing charge efficiency and other items. Something really strange has shown up on the screen. When I check amp hrs I/O it tells me I have put 27000 amphrs into the batteries.......oh really..... When I check the battery voltage, it looks correct. When I check battery current it tells me I have ~174. Amps DC going into the batteries......hmmmmm. If that were the case, I would expect something to be smoking, but inv/chg temp is only about 92 deg.

I guess this question is for "lewster". Is this typical for initial installation? Is it something that may correct itself when the first full charge is finished? Everything else seems to be fine. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

That depends.........

............on how the BMK 'feels' today. Really! I have seen them in the 'thinking' stage for anywhere from a day to a couple of weeks.

Try a hard reset by removing all power from the BMK module and the inverter for about half an hour, re-connect all and see if it clears up the cobwebs in the BMK........

If not, you might need to call Magnum Tech Support (425) 353-8833. Hope the BMK comes around to play nice!!!!!

toskeysam · 05-23-2014, 07:55 PM

Thanks lewster! I will give it some time to see what happens. I was just excited to see "Full Charge" on the screen, for the first time since I bought the van. If it does not clear up, or "act nice"... I will try the hard reset. I assume that means full disconnect of all batteries. It may be "only 12 volts", but I still have a healthy respect for DC.

Boxster1971 · 05-23-2014, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toskeysam

Hmmmmmm..... Something really strange has shown up on the screen. When I check amp hrs I/O it tells me I have put 27000 amphrs into the batteries.......oh really..... When I check the battery voltage, it looks correct. When I check battery current it tells me I have ~174. Amps DC going into the batteries......hmmmmm. If that were the case, I would expect something to be smoking, but inv/chg temp is only about 92 deg...

The battery monitor function on my Blue Sky Controller has sometimes moved the decimal point over a few places to give unreal readings like you are seeing. I did a hard reset as Lew recommended and that got it to settle down. I haven't seen problem lately.

toskeysam · 05-23-2014, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

The battery monitor function on my Blue Sky Controller has sometimes moved the decimal point over a few places to give unreal readings like you are seeing. I did a hard reset as Lew recommended and that got it to settle down. I haven't seen problem lately.

Thanks boxster. When I was seeing the strange numbers on the screen, I felt like if the decimal was a few places left it would be giving me some believable readings. After my "wait period" I may try the hard reset. I am on the road now, so all actions are taken carefully.

toskeysam · 05-30-2014, 02:33 PM

Before I dive in for the "hard reset". Will this be accomplished if I disconnect chassis and coach batteries, or is there an easier way I am overlooking? Just want to be sure before I crack open the battery box.

lewster · 05-31-2014, 09:14 AM

When I install an inverter, I always include a cut-off switch located between the inverter fuse and the inverter. Given that I have never seen one of these switches in an AI, I would use this process for a hard reset.

Disconnect shore power.
Remove the communication cable from your remote at the inverter
Remove the positive lead from the inverter fuse block where it leads to the inverter
Wait 15 minutes and re-connect in reverse order.

toskeysam · 05-31-2014, 10:02 AM

Thanks lewster. That kind of input is exactly what I was hoping for. Being several hundred miles from home, and a few hundred miles from nearest Airstream dealer, I tend be cautious cracking anything open.

RickABishop · 06-01-2014, 07:21 PM

My 2013 AI ME MMS inverter did not come with a BTS , despite ME saying they are always shipped with the MMS. So my next step is to add the BTS. I am trying to decide between adding a MR-RC remote and ME-BMK or adding Bogart Engrg Trimetric TM2030 battery monitor. If I went with the TM2030 I would replace my shunt solar charge controller with the Bogart Engrg SC2030 charge controller. It is PWM but not MPPT. I only have the 50W panel and am told by AM Solar that the MPPT controllers use more energy than they gain with only a 50 W panel. Wondering if anybody has any opinions on which way to go: ME-RC & BMK or TM2030 & SC2030.

After removing the lounge seat to access the electrical stuff I cut a 5" x 5" hole in the wood panel just to the right of the 12V fuse panel, and covered the hole with a 6" x 6" metal plate. This will allow me to access the fuses on the front of the MMS without needing to remove the seat. Not sure why Airstream couldn't have thought of that.

lewster · 06-01-2014, 07:47 PM

Every Magnum inverter/charger I have ever installed (over 100 by now) has had the BTS (battery temp sensor) in the box. I bet Airstream orders theirs without it just to save a few bucks.

Since you already have a Magnum, I would go with the ME-RC and a the ME-BMK as it will be a cleaner install with a single, much easier to read remote panel located right where your current Magnum remote is now.

The biggest benefit is that you don't have to pull any other wires, as all of the data from the shunt runs thru the existing Magnum comm line.

RickABishop · 06-02-2014, 05:11 AM

Thanks Lew,
I am not concerned about pulling new wires (just did so with ease for the Progessive Industries surge protector). I am more concerned about what is best overall solution. I can see advantages to having the monitoring and charging system done via ME, but then I am left with the shunt controller for my measly 50W solar panel. On the other hand, does it really help much to have a better solar charge controller and its battery monitor when all the 50W will will do is a little floating of the battery with the bulk and absorb charging done by the ME MMS? decisions, decisions...

paullovern · 06-02-2014, 06:04 AM

My AI came with an ME-RC already installed. I plan to upgrade to an ME-ARC50 which I am told will permit charging based on "state of charge" instead of voltage.

Sent from my Xoom using Airstream Forums mobile app

toskeysam · 06-06-2014, 11:15 AM

OK....I am preparing to do the hard reset on my newly-installed battery monitor in my 2013 AI. Looking for a good approach to get into the power box under the couch. Looks like a lot of small screws on the outer edge may give me access by lowering the rear panel. The Magnum inverter is mounted to it, so I know it will not be a simple unscrew-and-remove or lower. I looked at removing the rear couch seat. Not sure which would be better approach.
Suggestions anyone??

Bikerbill · 06-06-2014, 01:31 PM

We've done lots of work by just removed the screws, dropping/folding down carefully the rear panel. I'd unplug from shore power and turn off the inverter and other circuit breakers also. Take pictures once you are back there. I've got a complete library on my hard drive of what's back there.

toskeysam · 06-06-2014, 01:35 PM

Thanks Bill.... I have started taking pictures of everything I come across. The latest was how the macerator discharge hose was wrapped up and rotated to go in the small space and not get kinked. Simple once I did it, but wanted photo evidence before I took it out. I take pictures, count screws, count nuts and bolts, etc.😊

Titus · 06-07-2014, 04:38 AM

I removed the seat back (four 1/2" nuts) and seat bottom (two 1/2" nuts and two philipps head machine screws with 7/16" nuts). 10 minutes, cushions are lightweight, and complete access to everything. I did this to install a ME Battery Temperature Sensor (no instructions included, but had a do a reset to get it to register). ME_RC remote and battery monitor kit is next on my list.