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Old 01-11-2013, 08:23 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daizey View Post
I've been reading about towing with the Interstate and have found that the Sprinter is a unibody as opposed to a built on frame vehicle. It looks like a unibody vehicle may not hold up as well for towing as a BOF vehicle. Does anyone have any information about this ? Thanks
The difference, if there is one at all, is probably something like "19.9 years" instead of "20 years". I wouldn't worry about it if you're within the weight limits that are specified.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:29 PM   #42
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Daisey,

The Sprinter van IS unibody construction but it features an "integral frame" which is explained in this post from the Sprinter Forums:

Unibody or Body on Frame? - Sprinter-Forum

How Mercedes cleverly "mirror-image" doubles up on this integral frame to create the even more robust frame on the cab and chassis is explained as well.

It doesn't matter whether you have the van instead of the cab and chassis. Both are rated by the manufacturer at 5000 pounds for my 2006 model, I think even more for your newer one.

My rig is heavy, running 14,500 pounds of the allowable 15,200 combined rate and has performed well for over 15,000 miles.

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Incidentally, the Fiat DUCATO, a serious competitor for the Sprinter, is rumoured to be coming to America:

Ducato RV platform may follow Fiat Doblò van to the US - National RVing | Examiner.com

This is a beautiful vehicle which already commands 2/3 of the RV motor home upfit market in Europe. Note particularly the double rear wheeled model, reminiscent of the futuristic GMC motor homes of the 1970's.

Sergei

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:47 AM   #43
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Update:

My Honda Fit is presently at Foley RV Center, A/K/A Airstream of Mississippi, to get converted from a handsome prince into a toad. Installation of the Roadmaster baseplate system went well. With the baseplates removed from the sockets, the only real indication that it's not a bog-stock Honda Fit is the electrical outlet under the bumper where the umbilical from the Interstate will attach.

Installation of the additional wiring for the towing lights and the Invisibrake went well, too, except that the installation required two more blocking diodes than came with the kit in order to use the original turn signals/brake lights/taillights as towing lights.

Installation of the Invisibrake control module wasn't too difficult, but they had to do a test fit to make sure the driver's seat would still slide back and forth; the box fills the entire under-seat area with no room to spare, and does rub at one point. Fortunately, the only time I'll ever have to adjust the seat is when a service technician drives it, so that's almost a non-issue.

Where they ran into a problem was connecting the vacuum line from the Invisibrake control box to the power brake system. The brake unit is so far back in the engine compartment that one can't reach it without disassembling part of the engine. They're calling in a Honda service technician to handle that part of the job. Fortunately, there is a Honda dealership literally a block away. Don't know if they'll charge me extra; I hope not. The installation is already expensive enough!

In the meantime, I'm using the Interstate as my daily driver until I can wrangle enough time off from work to get back over to Gulfport so they can install the Invisibrake indicator light in the dashboard. Friday is the earliest I can do it, if the car is ready by then and if my boss will let me take off. Otherwise, sometime next week.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:53 PM   #44
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In post 32 I mentioned that I was told by an installer that the needed engine access for a FIT was very difficult to reach. It looks like Foley found that out but the job got done.

When you get some experience with the FIT as a toad using the Invisibrake, please give us a followup report. The light weight of the FIT seems to be a good choice for the Sprinter. I think you have the FIT with NAV so the battery charging of the Invisibrake should make it a good choice.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:02 AM   #45
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Upon rereading your post 31, I saw that the initial plan was to use separate lights and not tie into the FIT wiring. But you just mentioned you needed two more diodes. That would imply you did not use separate bulbs but went the diode route.
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:10 AM   #46
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In post 32 I mentioned that I was told by an installer that the needed engine access for a FIT was very difficult to reach. It looks like Foley found that out but the job got done.
Fortunately, right next door to Foley RV Center is Turan-Foley Chevy/Cadillac/Buick, and right next door to them is a Honda dealer. Foley RV actually called over a Honda service technician to advise them on the procedure to follow for getting access for tapping in the new vacuum line.

Quote:
When you get some experience with the FIT as a toad using the Invisibrake, please give us a followup report. The light weight of the FIT seems to be a good choice for the Sprinter. I think you have the FIT with NAV so the battery charging of the Invisibrake should make it a good choice.
I actually spent about two weeks poring over my various towing options even before I bought the Honda Fit, so I already knew it would work that way. I'm an engineer by profession, and doing my research is second nature.

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Originally Posted by pattonsr View Post
Upon rereading your post 31, I saw that the initial plan was to use separate lights and not tie into the FIT wiring. But you just mentioned you needed two more diodes. That would imply you did not use separate bulbs but went the diode route.
My initial plan was to do it with the diodes and tie into the existing lights, but I let someone talk me into doing it the other way, with separate bulbs. The reason for switching was that I had been warned that tapping into the existing lights would trigger false-alarm electrical system idiot lights on the Honda's dash. However, when the service techs at Foley RV told me that the diode system would not trigger false alarms on the idiot lights, I went back to the original plan. Cost is about the same either way, and the diodes provide a cleaner installation than drilling a hole in the back of the light housing to fit an extra bulb.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:57 PM   #47
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Under the bumper may not be the best choice for the the umbilical outlet. I have scraped the underside on parking lot bump stops even tho I knew I was low and should park a foot back. Also the outlet would have been wiped out when we hit a gator(tire carcass) in the road, it did a number on the bumper and the fog lights.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:29 AM   #48
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Under the bumper may not be the best choice for the the umbilical outlet. I have scraped the underside on parking lot bump stops even tho I knew I was low and should park a foot back. Also the outlet would have been wiped out when we hit a gator(tire carcass) in the road, it did a number on the bumper and the fog lights.
Actually, the bumper is just the right place, because it's the only metal on the front end to bolt to; everything else is just plastic. What I scrape the underside of when I pull too close to parking curbs is the underside of the front spoiler only 6 inches off the ground), not the bumper (a foot off the ground).

Here's a photo after the baseplate receiver, umbilical outlet, and breakaway switch were installed. The sockets for the towbar attachment points are very difficult to see, but are tucked right under the bumper. The umbilical attachment is centered on the underside of the bumper, and the breakaway switch is centered on the bottom edge of the lower grille. The vertical separation between umbilical and breakaway switch is to ensure they don't entangle each other:
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:15 AM   #49
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Great Picture.
You are right, I considered the whole unit as a bumper and didn't realize you had placed it exactly where I did. When I took mine off it was described as a bumper not bumper and shroud. While it was off did you do the fix for rocks that could hit the a/c coil?
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:45 AM   #50
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Great Picture.
You are right, I considered the whole unit as a bumper and didn't realize you had placed it exactly where I did. When I took mine off it was described as a bumper not bumper and shroud. While it was off did you do the fix for rocks that could hit the a/c coil?
Actually, no. Not even sure what fix you're referring to.

To minimize the potential for rocks hitting my Honda, I got Roadmaster Roadwing mudflaps for the Interstate. They mount to a horizontal bar that fits on the trailer hitch. They're not shown in the picture; the flaps proper were shipped rolled up, and they hadn't flattened out yet after being unpacked. When we did the test fit of all other components as you see in the picture, we hadn't added the mudflaps yet.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:29 PM   #51
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What size mud flaps did you order? I see multiple widths on the Roadmaster web site.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:46 AM   #52
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What size mud flaps did you order? I see multiple widths on the Roadmaster web site.
The Interstate is 6' 7" (79 inches) wide, so the smallest width (if memory serves, 77 inches) is a good fit.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:41 AM   #53
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Actually, no. Not even sure what fix you're referring to.

To minimize the potential for rocks hitting my Honda, I got Roadmaster Roadwing mudflaps for the Interstate. They mount to a horizontal bar that fits on the trailer hitch. They're not shown in the picture; the flaps proper were shipped rolled up, and they hadn't flattened out yet after being unpacked. When we did the test fit of all other components as you see in the picture, we hadn't added the mudflaps yet.
===============================
This site give all the info needed, your mudflaps might do the job but having a wild rock in the grill has happened to many fit owners not being pulled by MH.

Two Ways To Prevent A/C Damage from Rocks DIY/Photos - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:19 AM   #54
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Okay, back a ways to the original concern: Hurricane evacuation. I'd be more inclined to leave behind a car than some household furnishings (as some are unique, some have family history; then there are the usual "irreplaceable" items). So why not an open trailer? The second or third trip could carry a car (there are a huge number of trailer types out there).

I agree it's wisdom to be prepared well in advance so have enjoyed reading this thread. On this TT new to me I expect to have to do some things twice. One reason is the opening of 2013 hurricane season. A fast go-through of all road-related, and then some living related to have the TT ready to leave on short notice.

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Old 01-29-2013, 08:34 AM   #55
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Okay, back a ways to the original concern: Hurricane evacuation. I'd be more inclined to leave behind a car than some household furnishings (as some are unique, some have family history; then there are the usual "irreplaceable" items). So why not an open trailer? The second or third trip could carry a car (there are a huge number of trailer types out there).
There will be no second or third trip for me. When I bug out, whatever I can carry in one trip, that's it.

I don't have anything that's really irreplaceable, except a few not-terribly-valuable out-of-print books that I'd want to keep, that will fit easily in either vehicle. No heirloom furniture or anything. As a lifelong solo apartment dweller, I haven't accumulated so much stuff that I'd have to make multiple trips.

Besides, my landlord won't allow me to store a trailer on the premises; I'd have to rent a place to store the trailer. And for me, the trailer wouldn't see enough use to justify the price of ownership and storage.

But that's just me. An open trailer might be just the thing for some other folks who are more sentimental and have more stuff to protect from a storm.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:29 AM   #56
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You mentioned the smallest but there is a 69 inch and 73 inch that are smaller. When you mount the 77 inch a picture would be great.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:43 PM   #57
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There will be no second or third trip for me. When I bug out, whatever I can carry in one trip, that's it.

I don't have anything that's really irreplaceable, except a few not-terribly-valuable out-of-print books that I'd want to keep, that will fit easily in either vehicle. No heirloom furniture or anything. As a lifelong solo apartment dweller, I haven't accumulated so much stuff that I'd have to make multiple trips.

Besides, my landlord won't allow me to store a trailer on the premises; I'd have to rent a place to store the trailer. And for me, the trailer wouldn't see enough use to justify the price of ownership and storage.

But that's just me. An open trailer might be just the thing for some other folks who are more sentimental and have more stuff to protect from a storm.
Thanks for the explanation. As I think an RV almost a requirement to live in hurricane country I value the different perspectives and priorties others are willing to share. It's life on tenterhooks at that time.

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Old 01-30-2013, 05:29 AM   #58
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Lessons Learned

Here are the lessons I learned during the process of getting my Honda outfitted for flat-towing behind my Interstate:

1 - Even though the Interstate has the turn signals separate from the brake/taillights, the 7-pin connector is wired for combined brake/taillight/turn signals on one dual-filament bulb, so that's the way the car has to be wired, even if the car also has separate turn signals.

2 - The wiring kits don't include wiring for lighting up your car's rear license plate when the taillights come on. You've got to add a separate relay and wiring for that.

3 - Invisibrake has a cutout timer; if you hold the RV's brake for too long, the Invisibrake cuts out until the next time you press the brake. Not a problem as you should already be at a complete stop by the time the cutout cuts out. However, it played merry hell on the technician who was installing the system and then scratching his head as to why the Invisibrake suddenly quit working when he was checking all of the connections.

4 - When installing the Invisibrake under the driver's seat, mount it so that when the seat is slid all the way forward, you can see the dial and reach the adjustment knob, but when the seat is slid back to your usual driving position, the knob and dial are reasonably well protected from a rear-seat passenger's feet. Actually, I figured that one out before the installation, so nothing had to be redone, but it seems worth mentioning.
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