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Old 04-11-2015, 04:20 AM   #481
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To be really safe I would suggest mechanically attaching them somehow to the floor or side wall of the van. The bungee cords will be no match for the G forces experienced in an accident.
The obvious choice would be ratcheting tie-down straps like they use on semis and flatbed trucks, which will provide the same protection for the crates as would a seat belt; they're made of pretty much the same stuff. Should be able to find them at Walmart, Camping World, and Amazon.
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Old 04-12-2015, 04:14 PM   #482
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Installed 24" LED lightbar below the front grill
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:09 AM   #483
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Attachment 236146
Installed 24" LED lightbar below the front grill

Have you considered that this will impact the air flow to lower part of radiator where the AC coils and transmission coolers are located?


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Old 04-13-2015, 09:42 AM   #484
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In general, grill openings are styling choices more so than thermal decisions. Silverado pickups for example used to share engines with Corvettes and one has a massive grill and the other has none.

That's not saying that grill openings don't have an impact on cooling. Old cars would often over heat in stop and go traffic when there wasn't much air entering the grill. But this was exacerbated by the fact that the fans on the water pumps didn't move enough air when the engine were idling. Electric fans on modern vehicles have mostly eliminated this concern.

TL;DR: There are enough other airflow paths that partially blocking one grill opening shouldn't choke off the airflow.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:20 AM   #485
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In general, grill openings are styling choices more so than thermal decisions. Silverado pickups for example used to share engines with Corvettes and one has a massive grill and the other has none.
Not really true— a Corvette has a relatively large grille opening— underneath the nose of the car.

Given the location of the light bar, I'd be more concerned with blocking airflow to the transmission oil cooler, if the van has one.
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:37 PM   #486
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As promised (threatened?) I've got a report on that Fiamma Privacy Room. I used it at Eisenhower State Park, Denison, Texas, last week.

When the thing arrived via UPS, I unpacked the carboard carton and transfeered everything to the "MegaBag" that was packed with it. That's a nylon bag supposedly large enough to hold all of the pieces. Yeah, it's big enough, but NOT strong enough. It has webbing handles on both ends and webbing carry straps in the middle. The stitching ripped out on one end handle and the carry straps, leaving me with a 55-pound bundle that's almost impossible to carry.

Earlier this week I ordered a much better bag from a company called Sam Ash, that makes equipment bags for drummers, to carry their drum stands and such. It's got rollers at one end, and a rigid base, along with the end handles and center carry straps. It's not quite as long end-to-end as the Fiamma MegaBag, so that some metal pieces won't fit, but I'll figure out something different for them. The Sam Ash bag has a 100-pound capacity, and the rollers will make it easier for a solo traveler like me to handle. and it should be easy enough to stand it on end behind the driver's seat and lash it into place for transit, unlike the Fiamma MegaBag.

When I went to set up the Privacy Room, the instructions were crap. Mostly pictures that didn't clearly illustrate what they're trying to show, and stilted text that was translated from Italian by someone for whom English is a second language at best. However, being an engineer, I pride myself on my ability to figure out how to do things without instructions when necessary, so I pressed ahead valiantly.

The instructions were actually written for a Privacy Room that fits on an F45 awning, not an F65 awning. I didn't know that I'd have to drill the awning case to install two brackets. Not a problem, just unexpected. It's only one drilled hole per bracket, and the brackets should be able to remain in place thereafter, not be removed every time you take down the Privacy Room.

The key to setting up the Privacy Room is the "Clip System S" as it's called in the catalog, or "FastClip" as it's called on the labels on the clips. Basically, they're a pair of four-foot-long clamps that slip-fit together to make eight-foot-long clamps. Connects to the brackets I installed on the awning case at the upper end, attach to the leading-edge metal part of the awning (whatever that's called) at the lower end, and then clamp to the awning fabric along the entire eight-foot length.

The problem with the FastClips was the connection at the lower end. They're supposed to connect to protrusions on the leg swivels, but my F65 awning has a different type of leg swivels that completely lacks any kind of protrusion for the FastClips to interlock with. I got by through the simple expedient of putting them in place and then retracting the awning just far enough to put the FastClips in compression. It was fine for that outing since there wasn't much wind, but I don't like the idea of just friction-fit if there was any kind of a wind. I'm still trying to work out an acceptable substitute connection method before my next trip. If I can't figure anything out, I'll order a pair of F45 leg swivels to replace the F65 leg swivels.

One must be careful when attaching the FastClips to the awning fabric. There are some sharp edges that can cut the fabric. I'll be rounding those corners with a file before I use the Privacy Room again.

Once the FastClips are in place, the rest is pretty easy. Each wall and door panel has a plastic "bolt-rope" at the top that feeds into a slot on either the front of the awning or the outer edge of the FastClip. Feed the panels in, pull them tight, zip adjacent panels together.

Then another problem cropped up. The wall panels that butt up against the side of the RV have foam inserts that are supposed to be sandwiched between the RV's outer surface and a vertical metal pole, mistakenly called a "vertical rafter" in the instructions. The problem is, the pole is straight and vertical; the wall of the Sprinter is curved and angled. I couldn't use the poles. I worked around that by using a pair of bungee cords, conected at the top end to the awning case, and at the bottom end to a metal stake driven into the ground. The bungee cords conformed to the shape of the Sprinter van body, unlike the poles.

One other problem, at the sliding side door, I had a choice of that foam-filled edge interfering with closing the sliding door, or blocking the passenger front door. No possible way to set it up without blocking one or the other because the doors are too close together. I chose to block the passenger front door since I use the sliding door far more often while camping.

After that, it was just a matter of staking down the lower edges of the walls, rolling up the plastic windows to leave screened openings, and hey, presto, I was done.

It made for nice covered storage and a decent retreat from the deerflies (big as pigeons, I swear!), and because that side was in shade all the time no matter what the angle of the sun, it even made the interior of my Interstate about 5 degrees cooler than on my previous outing.

Plus, thanks to the FastClips clamped along the edges of the awning, the awning didn't flap as much when a breeze sprang up. Even when I don't use the whole Privacy Room, I'll probably use the FastClips on every outing, once I figure out that whole lower-end issue and file off those sharp corners.

The first attempt at setting up took about two hours; I expect the next attempt to take significantly less time now that I don't have to figure out what I'm doing and don't have to drill any more holes. I was working alone the whole time; it would have gone about 25% quicker with a second person.

The time to take everything down and pack it away was only about 45 minutes, again working alone. It would take less for two people because folding the wall panels is awkward for one.

While setting up that first ime, I swore up and down that I'd throw the damned thing away when I got home, but I changed my mind once I was done. I'll use it again, but probably will get more use from the Privacy Room during the relatively mild Louisiana winters. With the plastic windows rolled down, it should retain heat nicely.

I did take some pictures once I was done setting up, but haven't yet downloaded them or reduced them to a size that I can attach to a post. If anyone's interested, let me know.
We have a 2004 interstate that came with a fiamma privacy room. It has one broken support but the few times we have used it I don't think it was any more trouble to set up than what you describe--which seemed like more than it was worth unless we were set up for several days. I would love for my patio room to find a new home with someone who has the time to make modifications. It's listed in classifieds.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:07 PM   #487
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What is the light bar for?
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:42 PM   #488
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Silverado pickups for example used to share engines with Corvettes and one has a massive grill and the other has none.
While the pickups shared the same basic SBC or BBC engine, the Corvette version was a higher horsepower variant and did create more heat which could be a problem in hotter climates, especially w/ the BBC. Fortunately w/ the advent of the electric cooling fan(s), grill opening size isn't as critical. And as Protag stated, Corvettes are primarily "bottom breathers", especially from 1963 to 1996.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:03 PM   #489
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Help!!! Fiamma Privacy Tent Setup

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Using a stepladder, it now takes me about 45 minutes to put up my Privacy Room, solo. For two people it could be done in half an hour or so with practice.

Side note, the "fast clip" rails that hold up the side walls can be used by themselves, to keep the awning from flapping so much when the wind picks up, and can be removed quickly when the wind picks up enough to require the awning be retracted.

Hi Protagonist and Elinasuburbia,

Since you are the only two that have seemed to be successful in setting up the Fiamma Privacy tent on F65 awning, could you explain set by step, and/or show pictures of how you set up? I youtubed the instruction videos and the people aren't talking. The first issue was the clamp inside the awning that I think Protagonist said was made for F45, not F65. Protagonist, can you tell me how you made a corrected piece that you drilled in and installed? Picture? Then, the rubber tube for the bottom cannot go through, and there is only one side to insert the foam roll. How did you do this? Finally, when I tried to slide the top cloth into the thin openings at the top, there wasn't enough cloth to fit and clamp. Help! Thanks.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:47 PM   #490
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Since you are the only two that have seemed to be successful in setting up the Fiamma Privacy tent on F65 awning, could you explain set by step, and/or show pictures of how you set up?
Since I travel solo, I would either have to rustle up a cameraman or interrupt myself at every step and use a stand-in to take pictures.
Quote:
The first issue was the clamp inside the awning that I think Protagonist said was made for F45, not F65. Protagonist, can you tell me how you made a corrected piece that you drilled in and installed?
The plastic pieces that permanently mount inside the awning tube don't need to be modified for the F65 awning. But they do have to be precisely positioned, so that the inside edge of the bracket is exactly in line with the outside edge of the fabric.

I discovered, after much trial and error— the people at Fiamma USA were exactly no help at all— that the problem on fitting the FastClips at the outer end was that my awning's legs were not aligned properly with the edge of the fabric; they were aligned with the brackets on the side of the van. I had to loosen the legs and slide them toward the fabric about an inch each, and then the FastClips fit just fine without modification. The awning legs will be slightly out-of-alignment with the clips on the side of the van when you insert the legs in them for diagonal bracing, but not so far out of alignment that they won't fit anymore.
Quote:
Then, the rubber tube for the bottom cannot go through, and there is only one side to insert the foam roll. How did you do this?
Rubber tube? I don't recall a rubber tube. As for the foam, you have to lay the wall panel down flat, and with endless patience simply wrestle each piece in. I found that it helped to use one of the poles to push the foam in for the first piece. Good news is, once the foam is inside, it can just stay there. No need to remove it again.
Quote:
Finally, when I tried to slide the top cloth into the thin openings at the top, there wasn't enough cloth to fit and clamp.
If you have the install-it-yourself brackets properly aligned, and the support legs properly aligned, the FastClips will fit the edge of the awning correctly. But the installation manual doesn't actually say that.

I'm still confused about the rubber tube you mentioned. There IS a plastic bolt-rope at the top edge of each wall panel, that fits into either the channel on the awning front piece or the FastClips. Is that what you meant? I did note that the side walls are easier to install in the FastClip slots AFTER the FastClips have been clamped to the awning fabric. The way they're designed, if the clamps are open, that cuts the slot side about in half.

Also, since you watched the instructional video ( a couple of points.
1 - Instead of two setscrews for each bracket, there is one sheet metal screw that goes into a hole you drill. See time-tick 1:53 of 9:55 of the video.
2 - You won't need the black end caps on the FastClips. The FastClips fit on the knuckle of the awning leg without the black plastic cap, if the awning legs are positioned properly with respect to the edge of the fabric. See time-tick 2:22 of 9:55.
3 - The bracket for the door pole at time-tick 8:21 of 9:55 is worthless for an F65 awning. Once you know where the door pole needs to go, simply drill one hole in the awning's aluminum front edge piece to accept the top of the door pole.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:57 PM   #491
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Thanks Protagonist. As always, you're a wealth of information. I will try again using your tips.
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:31 PM   #492
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Attachment 236146
Installed 24" LED lightbar below the front grill
Some food for thought about blocking the front grill from the Sprinter Body Builders manual...
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:29 AM   #493
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SprinterStore.com sells an oversized transmission cooler that mounts under the bumper that looks really nice but I don't think it's necessary in this case.

Vehicles are designed for worst case driving conditions without encountering any mechanical failures or thermal fluid breakdown. For a Sprinter that was defined as driving at max gross weight with a trailer up a continous grade [10%] in 1st gear at ~15 mph. If you're planning to drive Pike's Peak highway you can relax, it has an average grade of only 6.7%.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:35 AM   #494
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Like many vehicles today the Sprinter has a transmission cooler built into bottom of radiator - it also acts as a heater to get the transmission quickly up to operating temperature in cold weather.
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Old 04-27-2015, 03:24 PM   #495
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Today's mod

Added felt pad stick on at seatbelt area on pillars to avoid smacking and scratching plastic.

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Old 05-03-2015, 11:28 AM   #496
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Added Programmable LED lights under awning so I can turn up my techno and have Rave under the awning.

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Makes it easy to find the camper in large parking lots also (in addition to being 4' taller than all the other vehicles in the lot). Lol.

(double side taped to mounting bracket, perfect fit; will run wire through roof into front storage area once I decide they stay; for now just have running through slider opening)


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Old 05-04-2015, 01:40 PM   #497
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milatv...the lights look cool. Are they HUE? I just found out about the HUE lights, and want to put some of those in my house.
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:57 PM   #498
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will run wire through roof into front storage area once I decide they stay; for now just have running through slider opening)
Why not run them in through the existing "patio" light? There's already a penetration there.
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:28 PM   #499
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milatv...the lights look cool. Are they HUE? I just found out about the HUE lights, and want to put some of those in my house.
These are cheapo's just playing around (which is why I didn't drill) was going to run wires in back through the holes from awning into cabinet originally; but figured I'd be more likely to turn them on in the front so that is the plan).

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%..._bxgy_hi_img_z

Protag; the porch light sets too low; I'd still end up with surface mounted wires to get to it. I'm looking at mounting a FLIR camera on the roof. I do some vehicle testing/training with the van; and FLIR IR/THERMAL camera is something I have on my ATV Side by Sides, and am looking at mounting on the VAN for the control center so there will need to be a wire in for that.
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:09 PM   #500
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Interesting. What FLIR unit have you used? What are you thinking about for Interestate?
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