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Old 10-14-2015, 06:27 AM   #617
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When I had my early interstate the first thing I did was disable the drl function by removing the correct fuse. Made it much nicer when entering or leaving a campground at night. No one had to be blinded by full headlights.
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:13 AM   #618
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Interstate Mods - I'll go First

I have personally experienced situations where DRL interfered with turn signals from an oncoming vehicle. Can be dangerous.


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Old 10-26-2015, 01:10 PM   #619
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Modified drawer under cook top

Among other things, I keep a small level in the drawer under the cook top on our 2013 Lounge model. This drawer is shallow and the level fell out the rear of the drawer and is now behind the refrigerator. So I put the this drawer on my to-do list to see if I could prevent this from happening again.

I pulled the drawer out and saw the the clearance issue is the gas valve under the cook top. However, there is about an inch and a quarter clearance above the back lip of the drawer. I took the drawer to my workshop and rummaged through my sheet metal. Some time ago I purchased new stainless steel flame diverters for a grill. However, once I got into it, I discovered that the remainder of the grill was too rusted out to save. So I threw those diverters into my sheet metal box.

I had previously cut one up so I had one full length and one partial length. I thought about cutting off the lip to have just a straight lip on the rear of the drawer. After thinking about it I decided to keep the overhanging lip as that would further prevent me from stacking too many things in this drawer. Now all I have to do is pull the refrigerator out to retrieve the level and whatever else may be back there.



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Old 11-27-2015, 03:40 PM   #620
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ID:	252928[/ATTACH]I'm all for a quite cabin while driving. I added additional automotive seals to the doors and it definitely reduced wind noise while driving.
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:04 PM   #621
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Onan Resonator

Added this today. Much quieter outside. Didn't notice much of a change inside.
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:31 PM   #622
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Added this today. Much quieter outside. Didn't notice much of a change inside.
Much of the noise of the generator that you hear inside the van is due to vibration transferred by means of the van's frame, to which the generator is bolted. Even the quietest exhaust won't remove that noise.
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Old 12-20-2015, 07:52 AM   #623
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I'm all for a quite cabin while driving. I added additional automotive seals to the doors and it definitely reduced wind noise while driving.
I see another DIYer in the making!! And a Houston-based one at that!!


Mcrider (and others concerned with road noise), just FYI, my husband and I have planned an extensive cab sound-proofing project. I don't know how it is in the newer NCV3-based Interstates, but it's terrible in the T1Ns - insert Protag's observation here that the Sprinter is really a cargo van and yes, that's true - but that doesn't mean we have to live with the status quo.

Useful aside: About eight weeks ago, I got a reality check on just how bad that cab noise is. I had ferried my daughter, a high school senior, to a university tour in another part of Texas. Arriving the evening before the tour was scheduled, we went directly from the road to a nice campground adjacent to a river. She stepped out of the Interstate into the quiet of the park and instantly commenced a mild panic. "OMG - something has gone wrong with my ears! I can't hear properly!" She'd never before been exposed to a really loud truck - kids of her generation have exclusively traveled in late-model passenger vehicles that have extensive soundproofing, so road-related hearing loss was an unprecedented phenomenon to her. I had to explain to her that what she was experiencing was temporary, and yes, her hearing would quickly return to normal.

Anyway, my husband and I have a laundry list of projects, and we actually commenced the soundproofing in part while adding rear and side cameras to our Interstate, a project that was described in this Airforums thread. We started out intending to add thermal insulation but then quickly realized that we had as much of a noise problem as we did a heat transfer problem (there was no insulation in the Sprinter above the Airstream-installed cab liner). We added Dynamat plus a reflective barrier in the cab ceiling, which helped substantially with keeping the cab cool in Houston's merciless summers, but we have yet to deal with the noise transmitting through the firewall, doors and floor. Those elements are pending because of course we got side-tracked by several other repairs and upgrades, the purchase of a 300 watt solar system that is still awaiting completion of the installation, and other life responsibilities, like the fact that we both have jobs. But that stuff is still on the list.

Cab portion of the job in progress:
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:37 AM   #624
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insert Protag's observation here that the Sprinter is really a cargo van and yes, that's true - but that doesn't mean we have to live with the status quo.
Having test-driven the Winnebago ERA and Roadtrek Adventurous RS before test-driving the Airstream Interstate, one of the deciding factors in buying the more-expensive Interstate was the fact that it was quieter on the road than the competition. Noticeably so. In fact, road noise in my NCV3 Interstate is less than in my Honda Fit hatchback.

That's a purely subjective assessment. Trying to use my smartphone's decibel meter app while driving would mean that my smartphone has a dumb owner, so I never actually measured the volume of road noise.
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:21 PM   #625
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Yes I'm constantly on a quest to improve. I added rubber washers to the genset mounting points today, but it doesn't make a noticeable difference so I don't recommend going to the trouble. AS mounting studs for the generator are welded in place so adding an isolating damper would be a major job. If I get industrious one of these days I'll drop the genset and dynamat the housing, remove the AS studs and install isolation dampers. It would have been so easy for them to do this OEM.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:48 AM   #626
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.... Trying to use my smartphone's decibel meter app while driving would mean that my smartphone has a dumb owner, so I never actually measured the volume of road noise.
Houston is famous for having no zoning, but it accomplishes much the same developmental outcome by having a strong noise ordinance. I have a sound meter that I originally bought in case I needed it for work. We haven't utilized it much, except a few years ago, my husband used it to measure the crowd noise during a Houston Texans game. It peaked at 118.3 dBA and our resulting photo ended up on the front page of the Houston Chronicle with the story headline "Reliant Stadium noise hazardous to your health". When you go to a sports stadium and see toddlers wearing hearing protection on par with the push-back ramp agents at the airport, that's a GOOD thing.

One of the reasons why we haven't done more on the cab noise issue is that my husband wants to science-project the entire process. Control every variable in order to see which soundproofing measures turn out to have the most impact, recording sound levels at each step. This isn't necessary, but it's interesting - and time-consuming. And it would help us to objectively constrain where we should be putting the bulk of our effort.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:02 AM   #627
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Yes I'm constantly on a quest to improve. I added rubber washers to the genset mounting points today, but it doesn't make a noticeable difference so I don't recommend going to the trouble. AS mounting studs for the generator are welded in place so adding an isolating damper would be a major job. If I get industrious one of these days I'll drop the genset and dynamat the housing, remove the AS studs and install isolation dampers. It would have been so easy for them to do this OEM.
I'm not sure whether your 2016 has the same water pump noise issue as many other RVs and trailers, but if it does, that "quieting" project might also interest you.

Pump noise volume is not unique to Airstream - it's a legendary annoyance affecting a wide variety of brands over the course of many model years. There are solutions for it which are ALSO on our to-do list, but a lower priority than solar, road noise, and headlight upgrade (our T1N was not born with projectors). One of the best-known Sprinter-based Class B bloggers is Roadtrek Life, and this is his post on the pump workaround.
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:25 PM   #628
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Yes I'm constantly on a quest to improve. I added rubber washers to the genset mounting points today, but it doesn't make a noticeable difference so I don't recommend going to the trouble. AS mounting studs for the generator are welded in place so adding an isolating damper would be a major job. If I get industrious one of these days I'll drop the genset and dynamat the housing, remove the AS studs and install isolation dampers. It would have been so easy for them to do this OEM.
Don't you also need a rubber washer between the nut and the genset bracket?
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:14 PM   #629
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Don't you also need a rubber washer between the nut and the genset bracket?
I thought the same thing and did put them there. However I was worried about the heat from the muffler so decided to remove them. Not sure they would help that much. If you have a different experience do tell.
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:59 PM   #630
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No experience but w/o them, you still have metal-to-metal contact which negates the effect of the one rubber washer. Not sure where the muffler is on the 2016 since it's not in the photo but doubt it would affect the rubber unless it's only a few inches away.
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