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Old 07-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #29
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I didn't envision it "rolling down the aisle" --- I just envision it rolling out of the closet, locking in place, it having a counter board on top and being used for food prep. Clean it off good, (especially if you used the food prep area for dicing/(Slicing onions) LOL --- then rolling back into the closet. No need to roll it down and around any aisle. or maybe your idea would work, that's just not what I was thinking.
If that's the case, it gets even easier. The drawers don't have to come out of the closet as a unit. Mount drawer slides directly to the walls of the closet to add your drawers. Add an extra set of drawer slides over the uppermost drawer, so you have a countertop surface that slides out like another drawer. To support the countertop "drawer" in the open position so you don't strain the drawer slides, the simplest solution is a triangular wooden bracket mounted to the inside of the wardrobe door, that is hinged to fold sideways. When you open the closet door, fold out the bracket, then pull out the countertop.
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:49 PM   #30
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In the later model years, cup holders for the front row that will actually hold cups would be nice, too, but that's a Mercedes thing, not an Airstream thing.

For the second row, why not go a step farther? Airline tray tables attached to the back of the front seats, with built-in cup holders.
While the two cup holders low down in the door panels are a little out of the way, the two on the top of the dash and the two in the center dash work pretty well for us.

The tray table idea is good. Could also fold down from the side wall possibly.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:21 AM   #31
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While the two cup holders low down in the door panels are a little out of the way, the two on the top of the dash and the two in the center dash work pretty well for us.
We must have different dashboard layouts. Or we drink out of different cups.

The cup holders on the dash of my Interstate will hold styrofoam or paper coffee cups, but nothing bigger because of the small diameter of the cup holder. Water bottles, 16-ounce or larger soft drink cups, etc. will not fit. For anything bigger than an 8-ounce cup, I have to use the holder in the door.

Mine only has one pull-out cup holder in the center of the dash (plus an ashtray that I only use to hold loose change). That cup-holder isn't deep enough to securely hold anything that I drink from. Fortunately, the only time I used that center cup holder, the soft drink bottle was still securely capped when it fell out of the holder, so no spillage.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:17 AM   #32
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My pull outs have successfully held up to medium McD's cup. I set the cup in and adjust the grippers. Then remove the cup and tighten the gripper one more notch and the cup is secure. I believe the recesses on each end of the top of the dash will hold the same size. What I put in mine was an insulated drink container w/ my coffee. Because it was in the sun, it stayed hot a long time. It was one of those that's plastic on the outside and stainless steel on the inside w/ a removable gasketed lid.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:18 PM   #33
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OK lets see if I can remember all the little things I've done:
- disconnected wire to disable the auto-retract on engine-start nanny feature on the automatic step (left the warning beeper operational)
- disconnected wire to disable the nanny that keeps you from accessing some features of the Kenwood stereo (factory 2012 model unit) while in motion
- added round mirror for driver to view what is happening inside the cabin while driving (see pic)
- relocated microphone for bluetooth cellular phone from center of windshield to drivers visor area (you can see mic in mirror pic); much improved voice quality
- removed fake-wood dash aplique
- removed "3500" badges from doors
- removed every warning label, exit sign, etc. from interior and exterior of vehicle
- added paper towel holder mounted to bottom of table top for use when table top is in stored position (see pic)
- added privacy curtain between lounge area and rear of RV (see pic)
- added wire shelf unit in overhead storage compartment doubling food storage capacity (see pic)
- installed Tekonsha P3 trailer brake controller
- installed Weather tech floor matts
- installed air deflectors on front doors
- tinted front door windows
- purchased 6 OEM take-off steel wheels from Airstream and installed dedicated winter tires (Hankook I*Pike RW11) ... have not had a chance to use them yet!
- purchased a pair of snow chaines for the outside dual wheels (Olympia Sprints 127) ... have not used those either
- replace reverse lights with Putco Neutron 1156 LED Bulbs, they were no improvement so I went back to stock
- added strap hanger to passenger side grab handle so the missus could reach it while getting in and out (see pic)
- hardwired Valentine 1 radar detector

Mod's to do:
- cut Reflectix to fit all side and rear windows
- relocate shore power plug to rear of vehicle to facilitate on-the-roll use of gasoline powered Honda generator mounted in hitch basket or front of trailer
- install remote start
- reflash (aka "tune") ECU to disable top speed governor (Renntech or similar)
- add aftermarket auxiliary transmission cooler

Wish list:
- upgrade roof top A/C unit to something with more capacity, less noise and heat pump (or resistance heat) operation so I don't have to burn propane to heat the rig while plugged into shore power (I'm not asking for much am I?)
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:24 PM   #34
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Mods

Great post. I will use several of them.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:37 AM   #35
Figment of My Imagination
 
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Metairie , Louisiana
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Originally Posted by russ240 View Post
OK lets see if I can remember all the little things I've done:
- disconnected wire to disable the auto-retract on engine-start nanny feature on the automatic step (left the warning beeper operational)
- disconnected wire to disable the nanny that keeps you from accessing some features of the Kenwood stereo (factory 2012 model unit) while in motion
- added round mirror for driver to view what is happening inside the cabin while driving (see pic)
- relocated microphone for bluetooth cellular phone from center of windshield to drivers visor area (you can see mic in mirror pic); much improved voice quality
- removed fake-wood dash aplique
- removed "3500" badges from doors
- removed every warning label, exit sign, etc. from interior and exterior of vehicle
- added paper towel holder mounted to bottom of table top for use when table top is in stored position (see pic)
- added privacy curtain between lounge area and rear of RV (see pic)
- added wire shelf unit in overhead storage compartment doubling food storage capacity (see pic)
- installed Tekonsha P3 trailer brake controller
- installed Weather tech floor matts
- installed air deflectors on front doors
- tinted front door windows
- purchased 6 OEM take-off steel wheels from Airstream and installed dedicated winter tires (Hankook I*Pike RW11) ... have not had a chance to use them yet!
- purchased a pair of snow chaines for the outside dual wheels (Olympia Sprints 127) ... have not used those either
- replace reverse lights with Putco Neutron 1156 LED Bulbs, they were no improvement so I went back to stock
- added strap hanger to passenger side grab handle so the missus could reach it while getting in and out (see pic)
- hardwired Valentine 1 radar detector

Mod's to do:
- cut Reflectix to fit all side and rear windows
- relocate shore power plug to rear of vehicle to facilitate on-the-roll use of gasoline powered Honda generator mounted in hitch basket or front of trailer
- install remote start
- reflash (aka "tune") ECU to disable top speed governor (Renntech or similar)
- add aftermarket auxiliary transmission cooler

Wish list:
- upgrade roof top A/C unit to something with more capacity, less noise and heat pump (or resistance heat) operation so I don't have to burn propane to heat the rig while plugged into shore power (I'm not asking for much am I?)
An impressive list, but I must admit to some curiosity… I don't understand WHY you made some of those mods.
- Disabling the step auto-retract on engine start. Do you often leave the sliding side door open with the engine running?
- Disabling the nanny on the Stereo (actually the GPS?). I was able to do that just by changing some GPS settings, no need to disconnect any wires.
- Removed "3500" badges from doors. They're a Sprinter thing, not an Interstate thing, but even so, what harm were they doing?
- Tinted front windows. Where I live, that's illegal and would cause the vehicle to fail its annual inspection, but I suppose it's not illegal where you live. You lucky dog.
- Remove warning signs. They're not THAT obtrusive, and Interstates come with the warning signs because that's the law in many states. I'll admit, I'd have preferred the rear "Exit" signs to be on the door panels, not the glass, but they don't interfere with my view through the rear-view mirror so for me it's a non-issue.
- Disabling top speed governor. An Interstate will already cruise at 75~80 mph with no trouble. Why would you want to go faster? And where could you? I guess that's why you added the radar detector.

If you want to add remote start, allow me to suggest a Viper alarm system. Remote start is one of the Viper modules. I didn't get the remote start module with my Viper alarm because I don't trust any remote start system to pause for the pre-heat to do its thing before trying to crank the engine, but you may not be concerned about that. Plus, if you have a smart phone, there is a Viper app that lets you use your phone as the alarm system (and remote start) remote. Which is neat, because as long as you have phone reception, you'll know if the alarm goes off, even if you're six states away. Even without the smart-phone app, the key-fob two-way remote has a range of about 2000 feet, and because it's two-way, if the alarm goes off at the vehicle, it goes off on your remote as well. Viper alarm modules that I am using include: glass break sensor; motion sensor; vehicle tilt sensor (detects not only attempts to tow your vehicle but also if you get a flat while parked), shock sensor (sensitive but very seldom set off by thunder), siren with backup battery. At the time I bought my Viper system, they didn't have a module for 2011+ Sprinters to integrate door lock control into the alarm system, but I need to check and see if they've got one now. They did have modules for 2010 and earlier, but when Mercedes took over Sprinter from Dodge, they made some changes to the wiring harness.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:36 AM   #36
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An impressive list, but I must admit to some curiosity… I don't understand WHY you made some of those mods.
- Disabling the step auto-retract on engine start. Do you often leave the sliding side door open with the engine running?
- Disabling the nanny on the Stereo (actually the GPS?). I was able to do that just by changing some GPS settings, no need to disconnect any wires.
- Removed "3500" badges from doors. They're a Sprinter thing, not an Interstate thing, but even so, what harm were they doing?
- Tinted front windows. Where I live, that's illegal and would cause the vehicle to fail its annual inspection, but I suppose it's not illegal where you live. You lucky dog.
- Remove warning signs. They're not THAT obtrusive, and Interstates come with the warning signs because that's the law in many states. I'll admit, I'd have preferred the rear "Exit" signs to be on the door panels, not the glass, but they don't interfere with my view through the rear-view mirror so for me it's a non-issue.
- Disabling top speed governor. An Interstate will already cruise at 75~80 mph with no trouble. Why would you want to go faster? And where could you? I guess that's why you added the radar detector.
Great tip on the Viper alarm, I'll check that out! Thanks!

To address your questions:
- the side step- we use our Airstream a lot around town and frequently take both my mother and my mother in law to lunch in it. It was troublesome to shut the engine off every time I was dropping someone off or picking them up, particularly when pausing briefly by the front door of a restaurant or some such. Here in OK you generally have the a/c on full max or the heater on full max, you don't want to shut the engine off to get the step out.
- the stereo - I did not know about the setting on the GPS, that would have been easier I'm sure. Where did you find that setting?
- the 3500 badges, warning labels and fake wood were all just aesthetic decisions. I like a nice clean look. I take the make and model badges off of a lot of my cars too. I'm just weird that way.
- window tint is legal here to either 25 or 35% light transmittance. Many people go darker than what is legal and even tint the windshield (not legal) and seem to get away with it. I just did what the law allows. I really don't like window tint, I can't see out of the side view mirrors when backing up at night as well as I could and I preferred the great unobstructed view out of the clear windows, but in this climate and with the size of the green house on a sprinter, I find tint is almost necessary (forecast is 115 today, ugh)
- I don't want to get into a how fast is too fast to drive your RV debate, but I will say that I do not EVER want electronic controls to take over for the driver (with the exception of ABS braking). Pulling throttle control away from the driver in the wrong circumstance can put you in a bad situation. When you are driving on rolling hills on an interstate highway in a 75 mph zone and brush 84 on a downhill then lose throttle while the governor pulls you down to 80 before giving control back to the driver it can put you in a sticky situation with semi's closing down on you from behind. When passing a slow moving semi, I believe it is safer to have a 10 mph or more passing speed to get clear and back into the right lane ASAP. There are few things more dangerous on the interstate than driving next to a semi truck for long periods of time. I don't want to be stuck there because of my governor when they toss a retread.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:03 PM   #37
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Protagonist,

What Viper model did you use? Also who installed the Viper? I believe in following your footsteps.

You said you were going to followup on door lock control availability for 2011+ Sprinters.

Thanks again for your great writeup.

Barry
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:35 AM   #38
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Protagonist,

What Viper model did you use? Also who installed the Viper? I believe in following your footsteps.

You said you were going to followup on door lock control availability for 2011+ Sprinters.

Thanks again for your great writeup.

Barry
I got the Viper 3303, and then mixed-and-matched modules for the system until I ended up with what I wanted. If you want remote start, you may want to check out the 5704 instead, which is the same as the 3303 but with remote start. Total cost of my system with all the modules I wanted was about $1100, installed. About the same as one year's worth of RV insurance premiums.

Didn't get a discount on my insurance for having the alarm (damn!), but I did report the installation to my insurance company anyway, so now the price of an alarm system has been added to the "agreed value" on my RV. If the RV is totaled in the first 5 years of ownership, they have to replace it with another one, including the alarm system. Thereafter, they have to pay out full purchase price, again including the price of the alarm.

One module I absolutely refused to get was the proximity alarm, the one that says, "Step away from the vehicle" when someone gets too close. It always annoys me when I'm in a parking lot parked next to someone who has the proximity alarm and I set it off just getting in and out of my own vehicle. I flatly refuse to inflict that annoyance on other people.

Vipe has a list of authorized installers on their web page at https://www.viper.com/. Go to the "Find a Store" link at the top of the page, and type in your zip code. As it happens, the Viper dealer I went to also handles Kenwood audio systems. That can be handy in the future.

Haven't gotten the chance yet to call my local authorized Viper installer about the door lock interface. I've been working 11-hour days at one of our construction sites, and when I get off, I'm too tired to do anything else.

I wasn't terribly worried about the door lock interface, to tell the truth. It's a nice-to-have feature, but not essential for me. Since I didn't opt for remote start, I can't go completely keyless anyway, and the ignition key has the door remote built-in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by russ240 View Post
Great tip on the Viper alarm, I'll check that out! Thanks!

To address your questions:
- the stereo - I did not know about the setting on the GPS, that would have been easier I'm sure. Where did you find that setting?
- I don't want to get into a how fast is too fast to drive your RV debate…
Can't tell you off the top of my head about the GPS, except to say that the Kenwood owner's manual doesn't address it, and I had to find it on my own. When next I get a chance to putter around in my Interstate, hopefully this weekend, I'll check out the steps to follow and let you know.

I also don't want to get into a debate. I'll just say that my dad once got a ticket for exceeding the speed limit while passing someone (his only ticket, ever!), so I was taught from an early age that if you have to speed to pass, you don't really need to pass at all. But that's just me. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:28 PM   #39
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Hi all
Just want to share recent mods to our 2010 interstate.

-tinted all front windows including windshield. Love and need it down here in Florida.

-3 1/2" cat back custom exhaust. No difference in sound, just looking for better mpg and better engine breathing.

-K&N air filter

-upgraded stereo to new Kenwood DNX 7190hd and new Infiniti Kappa speakers, Rockford fosgate amp, Rockford fosgate subwoofer. Works great with Tracvision a7 in motion satellite. Great surround sound now.

-also removed fake stuck on wood trim around steering wheel instrument cluster.

More to come:

-ECU tune. Not sure which one.

-Modifying bathroom extension lower section to allow toilet to open and be used without having to unlock and open extension.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:12 AM   #40
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-Modifying bathroom extension lower section to allow toilet to open and be used without having to unlock and open extension.
I can't do that one. I need the extra width of the extension for my shoulders, unless I want to only sit hunched over with my shoulders over my knees.

You may have to add another latching pin at the top to hold the extension open if you remove the bottom flange of the extension, since you'll lose the friction latch along with the flange. On the up-side, though, you'll gain extra bathroom ventilation through the larger bottom opening.

Oh! Now there's a useful modification I hadn't thought of before… Cutting out a small section at the bottom of the bathroom and closet doors to add ventilation grilles. I may want to try this one if I can find some nice decorative brass grilles (or since it's an Airstream some decorative aluminum ones).
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:10 PM   #41
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[QUOTE=Teamaron;1183191]Hi all

More to come:

-ECU tune. Not sure which one.
Hey Teamaron,
Being in Florida, I would suggest Renntech's ECU upgrade. They are located in Florida. I am a dealer for them in Oklahoma. I did my 2011 and the power range is so much better. It did reduce my fuel economy by approx. 1mpg but was well worth it. Just came back from being out for 2.5 weeks touring the Grand Circle with a deviation to Colorado to escape the heat.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:31 PM   #42
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Thanks roadjager,

Ive been thinking of the Renntech ECU mod. I'm surprised to hear you lost 1 mpg. Could it be your driving habits?

My engine mods are for #1 better mpg and #2 performance.

Being that mine is on a 2008 chassis it has the 154hp engine. It drives great, but if I can unleash a little more efficiency and power at the same time, I've accomplished my goal.

I'll tell you one thing with the new exhaust I got rid of that awful excuse for an exhaust tip/outlet and hanger that was sticking out. I'll post pictures next.
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