Interstate Mods - I'll go First

[73shark]

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

I rotated mine twice in 23,000 miles@$60 for each rotation for all six. The rear inner just go to the other side but the others do have to be broken down. The first time the shop marred the rear outer rim on one wheel by placing it on the wrong side to break the tire and ended up buying me a new wheel for $300 their cost. They didn't make that mistake the second time. They didn't hesitate to accept fault even though it was a couple a days later when I noticed it. Small town, and I have done business there for decades.

Gerald

My Sprinter book shows the rotation as follows: the outer duals switch sides and the inner swaps w/ the front on the same side. So would only have to dismount, mount and balance four instead of all six as I originally thought. Of course probably would check balance on the outer duals while they are off.

Originally Posted by jquayle

What year is your interstate? Received the tip today but I'm not sure it's going to work.

2011 w/ 2010 Sprinter chassis. As I said earlier, the tip is a slip-fit (tite) on the 2.5" exhaust pipe. Since I didn't want to weld it on, I drilled and tapped the drain hole in the tip for a 1/4-20, 1" st-st screw to lock it on the pipe.

[PSchw]

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

I used to own a set from Hawkshead, but for the 3500 chassis, I was too concerned that the flimsy rubber inner rear wheel air nozzle would bend under the weight when spinning and either allow air out or damage it, and with the plastic extender, even more so. Did you just mount them on the stock inlets for the rear inners or on the extenders? Have you had any issues with the inner wheel air sensors?

Gerald

I installed them and yes you right both inner wheels on the dully leaked running . The spare trie worked OK. The flimsy valve on the steel wheel even so on the pass through the front wheel it is supported. I guess it is the weight. So I will have steel valve installed in the steel and then try again. All others work perfect. Now the low alarm works well to as it alert me to the problem.
peter

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by 73shark

As I said earlier, the tip is a slip-fit (tite) on the 2.5" exhaust pipe. Since I didn't want to weld it on, I drilled and tapped the drain hole in the tip for a 1/4-20, 1" st-st screw to lock it on the pipe.

You were able to push or twist on the new tip? Did you have to do anything to get in on?

[73shark]

I did have to file some imperfections off the exhaust pipe to smooth it out. And I also deburred the inner diameter of the small end of the tip and doing that allowed it to slip on. It was a tight fit.

[roadmama]

Originally Posted by Billshop

Have not yet figured out how to post pictures, but not sure the pics show too much, since most upgrades are functional (not cosmetic)improvements. If I succeed in posting pics, I will do so.... Bill

Thx

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Billshop

Have not yet figured out how to post pictures, but not sure the pics show too much, since most upgrades are functional (not cosmetic)improvements. If I succeed in posting pics, I will do so.... Bill

Click on the "Go Advanced" button and then scroll down to the "Attach Files" and then "Manage Attachments". At that point you can either attach files from your device or from a website. Hope this helps.

[73shark]

Originally Posted by jquayle

You were able to push or twist on the new tip? Did you have to do anything to get in on?

Were you able to get it on?

[gmillerok1]

This is the only place I could find to replace the rear inner rubber valves for the Sprinter:

DL1SPAL Chrome Duallyvalve Kit

The local tire shop didn't have a clue, nor did anyone else I could find anywhere. The MB/Sprinter dealer in the Tri-Cities area in Washington found them for me. I had my van serviced there while on a trip for warranty work-they are a great dealership if anyone lives close by. I called the parts department and asked if they knew of any metal valve stems that would fit the original inner steel wheel. Three days later he calls me back and told me he found the ones above. MB does not make steel valves for the inner steel wheel, and as far as I can tell, no one else does either. The inner valve stem must be supported on the outer wheel to handle TPMS external sensors on the end.

Gerald

Originally Posted by PSchw

I installed them and yes you right both inner wheels on the dully leaked running . The spare trie worked OK. The flimsy valve on the steel wheel even so on the pass through the front wheel it is supported. I guess it is the weight. So I will have steel valve installed in the steel and then try again. All others work perfect. Now the low alarm works well to as it alert me to the problem.
peter

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by 73shark

Were you able to get it on?

Not yet. I've been out on business, but I'm off this week and will try again.

[russ240]

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

This is the only place I could find to replace the rear inner rubber valves for the Sprinter:

DL1SPAL Chrome Duallyvalve Kit

...
Gerald

So have you installed those? They look great but I'd like to hear a review before I drop the $120!

[gmillerok1]

They arrive today. I will let you know after the install. But I have heard from others on the Yahoo Interstate Group that used these exact same valves on the same wheel combination (Alcoa/Steel) and they said they worked. Also, I talked to the guy at Borg (YourTireShop.com) and he assured me that they will work with my wheels and that any aftermarket TPMS external sensor will work.

GM

Originally Posted by russ240

So have you installed those? They look great but I'd like to hear a review before I drop the $120!

[gmillerok1]

I had the dually installed valves this week, and am on a 350 mile trip. So far, no problem. They seem to work exactly as advertised. I will install my TST TPMS when I return. Worth every cent. Before, as you know, was not easy to check the rear tires. Now, it's just like the front except there are two extra to check.

Highly recommended.

Gerald

Originally Posted by russ240

So have you installed those? They look great but I'd like to hear a review before I drop the $120!

[pattonsr]

Gerald,

Is it a problem having the tires removed on the Alcoa wheels? I think someone told me that for the rear wheel the polished side would be on the bottom for tire removal and that they could get scratched by some tire shops. When the Borg extender valves were put on, you had to remove the tires on the Alcoa wheels to install them. What is your experience?

Did the long stem from the inner steel wheel need to be bent to fit exactly through the Alcoa opening? Were there any surprises during the install?

I have thought about tire rotation when Borg extenders are used. I think I would just swap the front tires side to side and do the same side to side for the rears (swap Alcoa and swap steel). What is your plan for tire rotation when Alcoa wheels and Borg extenders are used?

By the way, Bill at Borg bought an Alcoa Sprinter wheel late last year just so he could manufacture the grommet that fits in the Alcoa opening. The Borg Alcoa Sprinter aluminum/steel valves just came on the market in January, 2013 (Borg has always had the steel/steel available). The nice thing about them is that they replace the valves on the rears including the inner steel wheel that I think does not have a metal valve. The Alcoa fronts are left alone since they have metal valves that are reachable. Seems to me to be perfect for a TPMS. The grommet stabilizes the long stem from the inner rear.

Let us know your TPMS experiences.

Barry

[gmillerok1]

Barry,

The first time I had the local tire shop rotate the tires per the manual's recommendation, they dismounted the rear outers by placing one face side down to break the tire. It left scuff marks on the wheel which I did not discover until I got home. I went back the next day and they took responsibility for it. The installer just screwed up and knew better. They replaced the wheel at their cost with an identical replacement.

Now, I always remind them to turn it face up (as if shelling out $300 was not enough to remind them for the replacement), not down, to break the tires to be sure he remembers. Other than being sure they realize it, it is not a problem to break both rears and remount them to balance. If I remember correctly, the inners just swap sides, and the outers swap with the front.

The valve install required breaking down both the outer and inner wheel. A very slight bent on the inner wheel valve was needed to make it at the right angle for the opening on Alcoa outer wheel. No problems since the install at all.

I will follow the manufacturer's recommendation to rotate them. The valves are not an issue concerning rotation. These are really not extenders, rather, just longer valve stems for the inners, and curved ones for the outer so both valves are looking right at you, making checking the pressure much easier.

The TST system arrives Monday in time for a 5000 mile trip coming up later this month. The price does seems high, but well, there is no alternative if you want a TPMS system on a 3500 chassis that I know of.

Gerald

Originally Posted by pattonsr

Gerald,

Is it a problem having the tires removed on the Alcoa wheels? I think someone told me that for the rear wheel the polished side would be on the bottom for tire removal and that they could get scratched by some tire shops. When the Borg extender valves were put on, you had to remove the tires on the Alcoa wheels to install them. What is your experience?

Did the long stem from the inner steel wheel need to be bent to fit exactly through the Alcoa opening? Were there any surprises during the install?

I have thought about tire rotation when Borg extenders are used. I think I would just swap the front tires side to side and do the same side to side for the rears (swap Alcoa and swap steel). What is your plan for tire rotation when Alcoa wheels and Borg extenders are used?

By the way, Bill at Borg bought an Alcoa Sprinter wheel late last year just so he could manufacture the grommet that fits in the Alcoa opening. The Borg Alcoa Sprinter aluminum/steel valves just came on the market in January, 2013 (Borg has always had the steel/steel available). The nice thing about them is that they replace the valves on the rears including the inner steel wheel that I think does not have a metal valve. The Alcoa fronts are left alone since they have metal valves that are reachable. Seems to me to be perfect for a TPMS. The grommet stabilizes the long stem from the inner rear.

Let us know your TPMS experiences.

Barry

[73shark]

During your TPMS research, did you come across any sensors that mount inside a la OEM vehicles use?

[David M]

Originally Posted by 73shark

During your TPMS research, did you come across any sensors that mount inside a la OEM vehicles use?

FYI, David G from Sprinter Parts Depot is looking into availability of the factory TPMS. I'll post what he comes up with.

[ben322]

RE: Mounting Polished Alcoa wheels

Many specialty wheel shops use a non-marking rim-clamp machine. Just call around to make sure they can mount the outside rear wheels without scratching.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by David M

FYI, David G from Sprinter Parts Depot is looking into availability of the factory TPMS. I'll post what he comes up with.

There may not be a factory TPMS. According to my local Sprinter Dealer (MB of Baton Rouge) the Sprinter 2500 comes with TPMS. The Sprinter 3500 does not, because it meets two exception criteria of the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards for tires: (1) It has a GVWR over 10,000 pounds; and (2) it has six wheels— TPMS is only required for vehicles with 4 tires on the ground.

However, there may be an aftermarket inside-mount TPMS. I haven't been able to find one, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.

[PSchw]

I also looked in original MB once. Not available for 3500. I picked aftermarket sensor and find them very useful. I am still not having them in all 6 wheels but on 4 plus the spare. The inside rear did not work for either plastic extension or plastic valve. The weight of the pass trough sensor did cause them to leak air which the system reported correctly.
I love the pass trough as I can fill without removing the sensor. The front of the rear wheels need a special extension to do so or a different valve as explained early .
I love this forum lots of good informations.
Thanks
Peter

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by russ240

Sorry for the delayed response. My mechanic actually did this for me. He pulled a wire out of the step harness conector located behind the small storage bin located by the step. I pulled the six screws and slid the bin out to take a picture of the harness. I was disappointed to find that he had not marked which slot the wire came out of when he removed it. Perhaps you can compare the pics of mine to yours and determine which slot it came out of? You can see the wire he pulled out of the connector tucked back and wrapped in electrical tape.

I'm embarrassed it took me this long, but I finally got this done and it worked perfectly. Here is the stock configuration. I've shown which wire needs to be removed to prevent the step from retracting with the engine running.

Thanks again for the help Russ!