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Old 03-27-2017, 05:41 AM   #155
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The other issue with this one (besides the need for periodic reapplication) is that the excess must be wiped off thoroughly. I'd be careful about applying it to door handles. And don't bump your shoulder into the mirror casing if you are dressed nicely. Maybe all such products behave similarly - I have no knowledge either way.
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:06 PM   #156
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I have my Interstate into a repair place so they can scrape off and re-caulk the roof...something I cannot do myself, tho it is ridiculously expensive to hire it out.

They got started on the base of the Fantastic Fan, and discovered that the wooden "spacers" between the fan and the roof have completely rotted, and the fan was held on by only a couple of screws that had not yet pulled away.

Had I not decided to have it re-caulked, and this found, the entire fan likely would have come loose and blown off sometime in the coming months as I travel again.

There hasn't been any leaking, but this wood would have been original to the rig, so 11-12 years old...reasonable that it would need to be replaced, but not visible to the naked eye until the caulk was scraped away.

The caulk was last redone in 2014, so perhaps overdue tho there have been no leaks.

Thought I would alert others with older rigs....when you're on your roof, or scraping off caulk, take a good look at the wood spacers, and perhaps pre-emptively replace.

The technician took pictures, and if he will let me have them I will post them.

Maggie
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Old 05-31-2017, 05:06 PM   #157
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I have my Interstate into a repair place so they can scrape off and re-caulk the roof...something I cannot do myself, tho it is ridiculously expensive to hire it out.

They got started on the base of the Fantastic Fan, and discovered that the wooden "spacers" between the fan and the roof have completely rotted, and the fan was held on by only a couple of screws that had not yet pulled away.

Had I not decided to have it re-caulked, and this found, the entire fan likely would have come loose and blown off sometime in the coming months as I travel again.

There hasn't been any leaking, but this wood would have been original to the rig, so 11-12 years old...reasonable that it would need to be replaced, but not visible to the naked eye until the caulk was scraped away.

The caulk was last redone in 2014, so perhaps overdue tho there have been no leaks.

Thought I would alert others with older rigs....when you're on your roof, or scraping off caulk, take a good look at the wood spacers, and perhaps pre-emptively replace.

The technician took pictures, and if he will let me have them I will post them.

Maggie
Would strongly recommend against using wood again for this purpose, or at least use a highly durable wood like ipe. The best option would probably be to fabricate the spacers out of a sheet of weather-resistant polyethelene.
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Old 05-31-2017, 06:03 PM   #158
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Hmmm, too late for me, but that might help someone else.

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Old 06-01-2017, 04:57 AM   #159
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Thanks for the tip. We have already pulled corroded screws from our Fantastic but haven't replaced the caulk entirely (other than at the screw heads) nor inspected the underlayers. The caulk has aged more slowly there than the rest of the roof because we covered the fan with an Ultra Breeze. But it will need to be done soon enough.

I've been waiting for an a propos moment to use this meme from Insta. I enjoy really cerebral conversation but really unsophisticated humor (the dumber the better). This cracked me up, and not only that, I think that a potentially problematic wood spacer can be seen on the far side of this particular installation job.



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Old 06-01-2017, 05:25 AM   #160
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We had problems with factory installation of everything on our roof, with leaks that weren't resolved until it all was removed completely, and redone properly.

The Fantastic Fan was, of course, one of those, so that rotting probably began years ago and is just now becoming apparent.

The earlier suggestion of not using wood for these spacers is excellent, tho if installed and caulked properly it wouldn't seem that moisture should get to them.

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Old 06-02-2017, 12:04 PM   #161
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Picked the Interstate up a bit ago, and looked at the pictures of the rotting spacers. Yikes.

I didn't ask for the pictures, as the one IB posted shows them...look at that picture, and imagine four of them, around the opening, rotted away.

They replaced mine with treated lumber.

Another reason these roofs should be closely examined every year, whether re-caulking is needed or not.


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Old 06-02-2017, 02:21 PM   #162
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They replaced mine with treated lumber.
Hope they used appropriate fasteners. The high level of copper in modern treated lumber promotes a galvanic reaction that can rapidly deteriorate fasteners of the wrong material.

I would not want treated lumber near any living space - it's durable because it's toxic. The softwood used for treatment is also mechanically inferior for strength and fastener retention.

Sorry about your experience, it's probably good to make this known.
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:43 PM   #163
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I thought it was something others should know, too.

I only know they said "treated" wood, would expect it not be toxic tho it is not on the inside of the Vent space.

My roof was inspected last year, and the caulk all seemed good, so waited til this year to replace it...before there are any leaks.

The rotted wood and missing screws were not noticed until they scraped away the old caulk, so any with the older rigs like mine should probably take a good look.

The thought of the whole thing pulling loose and flying off while driving is a bit scary.


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Old 06-06-2017, 02:03 PM   #164
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I emptied, purged and organized maintenance records today, and found the original maintenance schedule we received when we bought our 2006 Interstate in 2007.

The needed frequency of oil and filter changes for a 2005 or so era Dodge Sprinter chassis has been of some debate here, but I found in TWO places in my original documents this frequency listed at 10,000 miles...or at least annually, if mileage is low.

I believe we did our first few at that interval, but have been faithfully at 6,000 miles for many years....and been encouraged by some to do it every 5,000 miles.

Other than just taking a good look at everything, could someone articulate the compelling justification for oil and filter changes on these older Sprinters every 5,000-6,000 miles?


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Old 06-06-2017, 03:21 PM   #165
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...could someone articulate the compelling justification for oil and filter changes on these older Sprinters every 5,000-6,000 miles?
....
In my case, it all boils down to two words: My husband.


Many people have strong opinions on this for a variety of experiential and historical reasons and beliefs. There are reams of discussions on other forums about what is REALLY the best oil change interval for the T1N Sprinter especially when it is Class B-converted. Given that we DIY our oil changes, I'm not going to debate that one. I've learned to just take my marching orders.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:41 PM   #166
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Well, we have always paid for ours, and that is okay, but I would still like a rationale.

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Old 06-06-2017, 07:24 PM   #167
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Back in the 50s oil changes were recommended about every 2,000 to 3,000 miles. Several things have lead to extended intervals. One being the continuing improvement in oils and now we have synthetic which by most reports is quite a bit better than what comes out of the ground. I don't know if all of the oils that MB specs are synthetic but one was Mobil 1 ESP which is what I used. IIRC, MB recently extended the change interval to 15,000 miles.

FWIW, my Tahoe uses an algorithm for change intervals (based on using conventional oil) and for me that is usually about 7,500 miles. I use Mobil 1 and could probably go longer but as it turns out, that's about a year's worth so I just go by it.
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:34 PM   #168
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I was hoping you would chime in....but I don't find an answer in there.

Is 10,000 miles too long, or does it really just depend on the oil that is used...synthetic being better and allowing longer intervals?

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