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Old 01-01-2017, 04:17 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by Lotus54 View Post
I have not tried it for this application, but I've had superb results with 3M 5200.

Places I've used it don't have the vibration or potential flex/movements- so perhaps the would affect its performance.
3M 5200 is used for bedding the planks in modern no-soak bottoms for old mahogany speedboats - just had our '51 Chris Craft Riviera done this past year. It's more of an adhesive than a sealant, and was made to accommodate vibration and flex. Not sure about UV resistance, however, and it will yellow.
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:20 PM   #128
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I looked it up-sounds like it could work very well. I was very impressed with it having used it extreme mountaintop conditions.
>---------

3M 5200 is a single part sealant that cures to form a firm, rubbery waterproof seal. When fully cured, this high strength marine adhesive remains flexible and suitable for use where shock, vibration, shrinking or swelling are concerns.
Use 5200 on wood, fiberglass, hardware, motors, on fiberglass transoms, seams, joints, between struts, and planking stern joints. This permanent adhesive bonds and seals: fiberglass deck to hull, wood to fiberglass, portholes and deck fittings, motors on fiberglass transoms, under moldings, hull seams above and below water line, centerboard trunk joints, between struts and planking, stern joints and more.

Apply with a manual caulking gun. Sealant remains workable with a trowel or spatula for up to four hours, and won't sag or flow in vertical or horizontal seams.
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:25 PM   #129
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3M 5200 and 4200 are the standard in marine industry by far. I don't know why it is not used in RV industry other than the fact that it costs 3X more that Sikaflex 221. In boating your life depends on these things working potentially so perhaps is the reason cost is secondary there.

The tensile strength of 5200 is 700 versus 260 for Sikaflex. That would be good normally but would make it harder to remove too. We use 4200 if you ever want to remove it.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:37 AM   #130
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With the amount of LABOR that goes into a re-caulk job, I don't think many people would care whether something was 3x as expensive as Sikaflex or not. Not if they had their wits about them, anyway.

Keep in mind also that a caulk job properly done is all about quality, not quantity. So one single tube of a product should go a long way.

The 3M product sounds interesting. I might experiment with it when it comes time to re-do our Fantastic. I mentioned in my blog description that the Fantastic's caulk line is shielded by the lip of the Ultrabreeze cover, thus it didn't break down as quickly. I didn't have to re-do it at this time.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:34 PM   #131
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A couple of quick questions regarding maintenance on my 2015 Interstate.
1. Does the A/C need to have yearly maintenance done, similar to what a home A/C unit has? I contacted my dealer and he quoted me $120(+filter if needed) includes cleaning coils and testing output temp. Does this sound reasonable?
2. For re-caulking the roof, I plan on having the dealer re-caulk should I recommend they use Sikaflex 221?
I am having the dealer do this maintenance since I don't feel comfortable trying to get up on the roof at my age.

Appreciate your comments.
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:30 AM   #132
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I don't believe you need to have the AC checked annually. The cabin air filter should be on the scheduled maintenance plan so as long as you take the van in for those, there is no need to worry about the AC unless it isn't performing well.

Sikaflex 221 is hard to apply so I would let your RV dealer use what they are familiar with, knowing you may just have to have it repeated a little sooner.
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Old 01-20-2017, 09:10 AM   #133
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Although my model year is older than yours, I have never heard of the AC's on Interstates having to be serviced separately....whether that is the AC up front or the roof AC in the rear.

As for the rear AC, be sure to locate and clean those filters on a regular basis, as you will be appalled at the dust, dirt, sand, etc., that accumulates in them.

And, should you encounter stink bugs, they love to hide their little selves on those filters, where they die and dry up and you don't know of their presence until you turn the AC on and smell...stink bugs.

Soap and water, air dry, does the job.

My late husband dealt with the roof caulk, but I don't belong up there and have my service folks check it and replace as needed.

Have fun!


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Old 01-20-2017, 10:51 AM   #134
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There are two foam filters accessible on the front side of the interior trim. They just pull out. They can be cleaned and reused.
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Old 01-20-2017, 10:56 AM   #135
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Here's something else worth thinking about: if your Airstream Interstate dealer happens to also be a Mercedes Benz dealer, as is mine in Scottsdale, AZ, any non-warranty RV work you ask them to do is going to be at Mercedes Benz labor rates.
I once made the mistake of asking them to change the generator oil and was stung with a ridiculous bill.
The answer is to look for a good independent RV service dealer for RV repairs.
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Old 01-20-2017, 04:29 PM   #136
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Appreciate the responses. We do keep the inside filters cleaned. Was just concerned about the outside A/C coach unit.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:31 AM   #137
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Service issues

Had APS and EPS and abs lights go on. 3 messages to take to service.

And had service B done. Plus fuel filter.

$1600!!!!

Wow


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Old 01-21-2017, 11:32 AM   #138
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Speed and wheel sensors bad.


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Old 01-21-2017, 08:53 PM   #139
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Were the sensors covered under warranty?
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:55 PM   #140
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Of course not
Warranty ended 10/16 of course


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