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Old 04-26-2012, 04:57 PM   #1
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Interstate Inverter

Have any of you blown out your inverter and had to replace it? My electrician hooked up my new outlet as a 220 Volt....result....smoke and fire out of the inverter....bummer.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:05 PM   #2
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Have not! But, check further into problems....this is a very damaging error. I hope your electrician is insured. This 220 screw up is well documented here on the Forums.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:40 PM   #3
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Inverter or converter? The inverter (if you have one) shouldn't really have been affected by your shore power, unless the isolator didn't work at all.

In any event, check EVERY system that has a 120v connection (microwave, AC, fridge) and make sure it all works right, and talk with your electrician about covering what doesn't.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:08 PM   #4
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Actually, if Brentsouth does indeed have an inverter, the 240VAC input could have wreaked significant damage. Inverters come in 2 basic types: inverter only and inverter/charger.

In the inverter only type, there is usually a transfer switch so that all of the 120VAC circuits that can be powered by the inverter from 12VDC battery power are also powered when connected to shore power. With this type of installation, a power converter is also required to provide 12VDC for charging the batteries and powering all the onboard 12VDC circuits.

The second type, the inverter/charger does this same function but also will charge the batteries with it's integrated 3 stage charger. The 12VDC is then provided to the batteries and the on board 12VDC circuits draw from the batteries.

I would also thoroughly check the batteries and all AC circuits; wiring, breakers, and appliances. Sorry for your loss. I hope your electrician is going to step up and cover your costs. It WON"T be cheap!
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:03 AM   #5
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Late-model Interstates come equippped with a TrippLite RV750ULHW inverter/charger. Replacement cost approximately $350-$400 plus labor even if that's the only thing damaged.

Time-and-labor-saving hint: If you have the lounge model rather than the twin-bed model, you'll have to remove the bottom sofa cushion to get at the inverter/charger to replace it. Leave your 12-volt power hooked up until after the seat cushion is removed, because you'll have to slide the seat forward to unbolt the front end (two downward-facing Phillips-slot flat-head machine screws with upward-facing nuts), and back to unbolt the rear end of the cushion (two downward-facing nuts on welded studs), and ALL the way forward to lift off the cushion, and all the way back again to access the inverter. THEN disconnect the 12v power for safety. Trying to remove the seat cushion without 12v power to move the seat requires that you have arms like an anorexic orangutang and also requires that you remove the seat back as well as the bottom cushion.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:03 AM   #6
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What other 120V items were damaged by the high voltage, TV, Microwave, Electronics, Air Conditioner Etc.

Perry
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
What other 120V items were damaged by the high voltage, TV, Microwave, Electronics, Air Conditioner Etc.
In theory, all built-in 110v appliances should have been shut off at the time the shore power cord was plugged in. If that's the case, then Brentsouth could still have a potential of three appliances damaged.

1 - The microwave/convection oven automatically starts drawing 110v as soon as 110v is available from any source, to power the clock and other controls, even if you're not actively cooking anything.

2 - Even when turned off, televisions still draw 110v power for their infrared remote receiver if there is a 100v source available. Otherwise the remote controls wouldn't work to turn them on.

3 - The refrigerator is wired so that when turned on, it will run in 12v mode as long as no 110v power is available, but as soon as 110v is available, it automatically switches to 110v.

All three of the these appliances could have gotten a dose of 220v along with the inverter/charger.

Point of interest, when first connecting to shore power, the inverter/charger should be set to "Off", which has to be done at the inverter, not the remote panel; the remote panel has no "Off" position. After shore power is connected, the inverter should be switched to "Charge Only." If you set the inverter to "Auto/Invert" then the remote control panel needs to be set to "Charge Only" first. If the inverter was set to "Charge Only" at the time, then it's possible that the house batteries might have been damaged as well. The fact that the inverter was smoking indicated that breakers and fuses didn't kick in fast enough, and a surge did go through the system.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:19 AM   #8
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The other thing that would happen in this scenario is 120 volts would be going to the AC devices on the neutral line which is not protected by a breaker.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:08 AM   #9
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Thanks for the advice/help. I am getting it looked at this week and will let you know what it blew.... ouch!
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:07 PM   #10
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Lots of us will be anxious to hear how this comes out. Also, hope you are doing well in your search for another electrician (after you encourage this one to pursue a different line of work). That's a pretty basic (bone-headed) mistake for an "electrician" to make. IMHO.
Good luck,
Wayne
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:10 AM   #11
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Wayne,

New inverter should arrive tomorrow. I should know more and update you after it get's installed.

Brent
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:46 AM   #12
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So, new inverter is in and I was told yesterday that everything is working! I can't believe it didn't blow more stuff out. The owner of the electrician company is a stand up guy and is insisting on paying for everything. Whew... so I am driving it next week from Houston to Santa Fe so that will be the real test. I am thinking of going a round about way through the Davis Mountains then up through New Mexico.
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