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Old 09-16-2013, 11:46 AM   #43
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Tried, but did not get through. I will try harder now that options are exhausted.
Might stop by factory in Ohio on trip next week to east coast.
I just submitted request on Airstream web site. Customer support.
Heard good things about Jim Parrett on other blogs.
Jim Parrett, Senior Customer Service Representative, at the Airstream factory in Jackson Center, Ohio
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:46 PM   #44
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Airstream response "[FONT=Arial]You can check to see if the gray and white wire are in the correct position. If they are not the house batteries will not charge from the engine." see attached
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:50 PM   #45
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I checked on the wire. It was loose but should have made contact. I tightened the connection and will test as soon as battery voltage drops. Apparently the relay will not engage unless the battery aux is below 12.6. But I can always use my manual method to connect the batteries. We shall see
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:19 AM   #46
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Airstream response "[FONT=Arial]You can check to see if the gray and white wire are in the correct position. If they are not the house batteries will not charge from the engine." see attached
Attachment 195943
Looks like I've got some checking to do; this could be what's wrong with my BIM.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:04 PM   #47
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Probably already asked somewhere but:


Should I always keep the coach PLUGGED IN???
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:06 PM   #48
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Probably already asked somewhere but:


Should I always keep the coach PLUGGED IN???
Not always! Kind of difficult to drive it while it's plugged in!

But seriously, it all depends. Will you be leaving some house systems running while it's in storage? If so, you should keep it plugged in. I personally don't even have a place to plug in while mine's in storage, so I just shut off all of my house systems, and rely on the solar panel to keep the house batteries charged. It seems to do well enough.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:44 PM   #49
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Not always! Kind of difficult to drive it while it's plugged in!

But seriously, it all depends. Will you be leaving some house systems running while it's in storage? If so, you should keep it plugged in. I personally don't even have a place to plug in while mine's in storage, so I just shut off all of my house systems, and rely on the solar panel to keep the house batteries charged. It seems to do well enough.
Funny, i needed that.

I always leave the battery switch on.

I ask because going on another set of batteries and want to make sure they last.

Thanks protagonist
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:40 PM   #50
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Mine is the 2011 model, but from what I understand, I am pretty sure all models are wired that way. They use the 20amp inverter circuit that runs to the TV receptacle, then to the back behind the microwave where the fridge is plugged into a receptacle, then to the front GFI 120ac outlet that is energized with the inverter. They wire it this way for convenience only-the refrigerator has two power connections. One is for AC and another 12vdc. If no AC is present, it runs off 12vdc. If AC is present, it runs off the AC, but then converts it back to 12vdc. So it goes from 12vdc, to 120ac, and back to 12vdc again!

I brought this up during my discussion w/ Jim Parrett yesterday and he said the compressor is dual voltage and just runs on the voltage available. So no conversion from 120V to 12V needed within the frig.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:51 AM   #51
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It is true it runs on whatever voltage is available. If the inverter is on it gives priority to 120vac. That voltage is then converted to 12vdc by an internal ac to Dc converter to 12vdc in the fridge. That is ok when on shore power but not when boon docking as it wastes valuable energy in the conversion. The compressor does not "run" on 120vdc when plugged into 120vac and then 12vdc when not. It is always 12vdc no matter what power source is used.

Gerald

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I brought this up during my discussion w/ Jim Parrett yesterday and he said the compressor is dual voltage and just runs on the voltage available. So no conversion from 120V to 12V needed within the frig.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:01 PM   #52
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Looks like either I misunderstood Jim or he is misinformed. Here's what Novakool said when I asked:

Hello Marc
The basic compressor module is DC and, the AC DC versions convert to DC,
The actual compressor motor itself is 3 phase in varying voltages for speed adjustment

Here is the spec sheet for the module we use on the airstream unit , it will always run on AC whenever AC is avail (even if both the DC and the AC are energized)

http://www.novakool.com/support/ACDC%20module%20Data.pdf


So Gerald was correct all along.



When I look at the plugs for the microwave and the frig thru the "drop down" drawer front by the sink, I don't see any 12VDC connection. Just the two 120VAC outlets. Guessing it's behind the frig.



BTW, Protag, I can reach those plugs thru that opening, so if you want to unplug the frig, you can do so thru that opening w/o removing the oven. You do have to pull the drawer front down to horizontal to gain the needed clearance.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #53
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BTW, Protag, I can reach those plugs thru that opening, so if you want to unplug the frig, you can do so thru that opening w/o removing the oven. You do have to pull the drawer front down to horizontal to gain the needed clearance.
What floor plan do you have? With or without the wardrobe closet? Because I think the galley wiring layout is a bit different since the galley location is also a bit different. I've got the wardrobe closet. When I open up that drawer front that's over the microwave, the only outlet I see is the one for the microwave. The other one is somewhere out of sight.

But it's not critical that I unplug the 120vAC for the fridge; that's just an idea I was tossing around. So I'm not going to worry too much about it.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:18 PM   #54
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I have the regular lounge model. I forgot that you had the wardrobe model floor plan.
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