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Old 03-29-2013, 11:32 AM   #29
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Yes, that is correct. It will just always run off the house batteries if no AC is present. You probably will have to remove the micowave to get to the plug but that's not that hard to do if you know the trick (if you need help let me know). You can see the receptacle if you remove the drawer, shine a flashlight up and to the right and use a mirror, but I don't think you can reach it without removing the microwave. While I was in the process of fixing the check valve, I ran a new circuit back to the AC panel, and replaced the coffee maker line with the new wiring to a new receptable behind the microwave as I don't use the coffee maker and never will (although I can always reconnect it as I left the wiring, just disconnected). So I have a non-inverted line that powers the fridge when connected to shore power, and 12vdc when not. But the inverter is now no longer in the loop at all. In other words I wired it the way it should have been wired in the first place!

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:42 AM   #30
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You probably will have to remove the micowave to get to the plug but that's not that hard to do if you know the trick (if you need help let me know).
Yes, please. If you don't mind sharing your secrets, I would like to know the trick to removing the microwave so I can get to the plug.

Rather than just unplugging it, I migh insert a short extension cord with a switch in between the fridge and the outlet, and run the switch to where I can reach it easily (possibly above the microwave, in that little tip-out tray in front of the sink). Then I'd be able to switch it easily to 120v when I'm on shore power or generator, and switch off to use 12v when I'm on the inverter. Not as efficient as rewiring to a different circuit, but more suited to my all-thumbs handyman skills.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:07 PM   #31
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Ok, here's how's it's done.

If yours is the same model as mine (the Apollo Half-Time Oven):

There are six, three on each side, very small round plastic inserts around the trim piece that surrounds the microwave. Take a sharp tool (flat bladed box blade works well) and carefully remove these inserts to get to the screws behind them. Careful, there, they will pop off and disapear so go gently and when they start to come loose very, (and I mean VERY!) gently pry them off, one by one. Put them is a safe place where they won't get lost, because if you give them the opportunity, they will.

2. Remove the trim piece from around the microwave and set aside in a safe place out of the way.

3. At the front, lower legs of the microwave, there are to plastic stops that hold the feet of the microwave in place. These inserts are held in place by one screw. Unscrew each screw and pull off the stop. Then, the microwave will simply slide forward and out.

4. Now the fun begins. Pull out the microwave until you can get to the AC plug, and with one hand holding the microwave or having it rest on partway out, use the other one to unplug the unit. Then, carefully pull it all the way out and place on the counter. If all you want to do is unplug the refrigerator, just unplug the plug on the left-the right receptacle is for the micowave. To put it back, reverse these steps.

I would not suggest running any sort of extension to under the sink as you suggested as the risk of electrocution is too high. You could run it down by the lower drawer, or somewhere else for that matter. But not under the sink that close to water. That particular tray can trap water that is spilled on the counter if the door is open. I think if I recall the inverted line is GFI protected, but don't hold me to that. As always, if you do not undertand the hazards of electricty and wiring, or have any questions about rewiring, get some advice from a licensed electrician. It's not worth getting killed or injured.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

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Old 03-29-2013, 10:28 PM   #32
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I think I am missing something, or my 2012 Interstate is not wired the same as yours (entirely possible from what I have read). My microwave is not powered by the inverter, it only comes alive if I am on shore power or the generator is running. Does that mean that, since it should be plugged into the same outlet as the fridge, that my fridge operates as it really should .. which is to say on 110v if on shore or generator but on 12v if only the inverter is supplying 110v?
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:32 PM   #33
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I think I am missing something, or my 2012 Interstate is not wired the same as yours (entirely possible from what I have read). My microwave is not powered by the inverter, it only comes alive if I am on shore power or the generator is running. Does that mean that, since it should be plugged into the same outlet as the fridge, that my fridge operates as it really should .. which is to say on 110v if on shore or generator but on 12v if only the inverter is supplying 110v?
Are you sure your microwave isn't powered by the inverter? It definitely will NOT get enough power from the inverter to cook anything, but it may be getting enough power off the inverter for the green clock display to light up. Mine does.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:46 PM   #34
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Nope. Totally dark. No display, no interior light.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:03 PM   #35
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I think I am missing something, or my 2012 Interstate is not wired the same as yours (entirely possible from what I have read). My microwave is not powered by the inverter, it only comes alive if I am on shore power or the generator is running. Does that mean that, since it should be plugged into the same outlet as the fridge, that my fridge operates as it really should .. which is to say on 110v if on shore or generator but on 12v if only the inverter is supplying 110v?
The microwave is on a separate 20 amp circuit. It is not on the same circuit as the refrigerator.

There are two outlets back there, and each is on its own circuit.

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:10 PM   #36
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The microwave is on a separate 20 amp circuit. It is not on the same circuit as the refrigerator.

There are two outlets back there, and each is on its own circuit.

GM
Then I suppose it could be that the person who did final assembly on the galley in mine switched the plugs on the two outlets, because my microwave's clock definitely lights up on the inverter, so the micronuker must be plugged into the inverter circuit. Which must mean my refrigerator isn't plugged into the inverter circuit.

Interesting.

Of course, since they don't give out wiring schematics with your purchase of an Interstate, it's also possible that no two are wired exactly alike. Without a schematic to compare to, we'd never know.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:25 PM   #37
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Are you sure your microwave isn't powered by the inverter? It definitely will NOT get enough power from the inverter to cook anything, but it may be getting enough power off the inverter for the green clock display to light up. Mine does.
The microwave should not be powered at all when off shore power. No lights.

Check the breaker box (ac panel). Flip the one labeled 20 amp Microwave off. Disconnect from shore power. Turn on the inverter. If the microwave has power, (LED is on) then the Einstien's at AS plugged the microwave into the wrong circuit. Flip off the breaker labeled 20 amp inverter/conv. If the led lamp goes out then that proves it.

If that is the case, your fridge is already running full time off the batteries unless on shore power. And unless you have something drawing lots of amps on that circuit you may not ever trip the breaker. I doubt the tv draws much power. But that is not the way it is supposed to be hooked up.

But don't try using the microwave on the inverter. Bad things may happen. And the inverter is not a pure sine wave inverter, and some electronics don't take tookindly to modified sine wave ac. Which could damage the board in the oven. I would not leave it on that circuit if this turns out to be the case.

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:31 PM   #38
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Regarding the solenoid, I found a really good walk thru once on how to install a switch in the inside control area that would allow cutoff to the solenoid from within the AS. (It didn't replace the external switch, it was inline so both had to be on for it to operate).

Now that is I'm ready to install one, I can't find it or remember which forum it was on.

Does anyone else recall seeing this and could point me in the right direction?


Thanks
Join the Yahoo interstate group. It is there, pictures and all.

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:34 PM   #39
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Looks like he removed the OEM switch instead of putting it in series.

Great DIY write-up!
I later put the original switch back, but this was after I did the write up.

Both have to be on to engage the solenoid valve.

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Old 03-29-2013, 11:48 PM   #40
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Then I suppose it could be that the person who did final assembly on the galley in mine switched the plugs on the two outlets, because my microwave's clock definitely lights up on the inverter, so the micronuker must be plugged into the inverter circuit. Which must mean my refrigerator isn't plugged into the inverter circuit.

Interesting.

Of course, since they don't give out wiring schematics with your purchase of an Interstate, it's also possible that no two are wired exactly alike. Without a schematic to compare to, we'd never know.
Actually, they do have schematics, and they will if you scream loud enough and have a good reason may even provide them (they did for me). I'm working on a general ac schematic which I will share when I finish it. But they should be wired more or less the same. In any event the microwave definitely should not be on the inverter circuit. But it wouldn't surprise me if it was. I have found some pretty silly things they did on mine.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:05 PM   #41
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Question Interstate Battery Isolation Manager relay

This is my first post on this forum so forgive my ignorance. The house battery never charged from the engine in my 2012 Interstate 3500 Mercedes diesel Sprinter. A RV service man (not Airstream) could not determine the problem. I was caught a couple times in the wilderness without a way to charge the batteries.. Manual says that the engine should charge the house batteries. Noticed that the newer models had a "dash switch" that would connect the engine and house batteries. There is a connection on the relay for the "dash switch". If power is applied then the relay closes connecting the two systems. So I added a toggle switch to do so. I turn it on,if needed, to charge when the engine is running and off when not running. I would not advise doing this without getting confirming information, but I have been successful getting information from Airstream or the dealer that sold it.

Just testing uploading images. This is a link to photobucket.com.


Also testing video download. seems easier than photo link.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:44 AM   #42
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Welcome to the forum.

Did you try to contact Jim Parrett or Randy McNeely Airstream?
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