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Old 03-26-2013, 11:00 AM   #15
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I guess I didn't search deep enuf when I started this thread.

Glenn/Dosno: Did either of you have a relay clicking in the BIM?
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:00 PM   #16
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Regarding the solenoid, I found a really good walk thru once on how to install a switch in the inside control area that would allow cutoff to the solenoid from within the AS. (It didn't replace the external switch, it was inline so both had to be on for it to operate).

Now that is I'm ready to install one, I can't find it or remember which forum it was on.

Does anyone else recall seeing this and could point me in the right direction?


Thanks
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jquayle View Post
Regarding the solenoid, I found a really good walk thru once on how to install a switch in the inside control area that would allow cutoff to the solenoid from within the AS. (It didn't replace the external switch, it was inline so both had to be on for it to operate).

Now that is I'm ready to install one, I can't find it or remember which forum it was on.

Does anyone else recall seeing this and could point me in the right direction?


Thanks
Post #117 in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...rst-92862.html was the last mention that I recall.

If memory serves, the reason for adding the second switch inside, but leaving the original hooked up outside, is twofold:
1 - Propane sellers expect a switch outside next to the fill port, so they can verify that everything is shut off before adding propane to the tank (In fact, NFPA 58 requires them to do so, but not everyone actually does);
2 - If you have a leak inside your Interstate and your LPG detector goes off, you want to immediately exit the vehicle, and turn off the propane from outside.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:12 PM   #18
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What's a BIM?
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jquayle View Post
Regarding the solenoid, I found a really good walk thru once on how to install a switch in the inside control area that would allow cutoff to the solenoid from within the AS. (It didn't replace the external switch, it was inline so both had to be on for it to operate).

Now that is I'm ready to install one, I can't find it or remember which forum it was on.

Does anyone else recall seeing this and could point me in the right direction?


Thanks
It was in the Yahoo Airstream Forum. Had some pics of the install. Inside switch in series would be the way to go for the reason Protagonist offered.

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Originally Posted by Dosno View Post
What's a BIM?
Battery Isolation Manager. Allows all batteries to be charged by alternator, shore power, solar panel, and generator but prevents the discharge of the chassis battery by the coach. At least I think that's how it works.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:37 PM   #20
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Thanks, that helps.
The only clicking I have heard is my wife's heels as she asked me how much we paid for something that is broken...
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:16 PM   #21
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Thanks!


Found it.

Here's the link to the walkthru: http://www.gmillerpc.com/up/van/switch1.pdf

Here's the post on the fourm: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...te/message/205


I think I'm going to try to tackle this little project over the weekend.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:45 AM   #22
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Looks like he removed the OEM switch instead of putting it in series.

Great DIY write-up!
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:40 AM   #23
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Yes, I noticed that too. I'm not going to wire mine that way. I believe you need to have an external switch by law.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:04 PM   #24
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gastockman,

Did you ever get this problem solved? We'd sure like to hear the outcome!

Wayne
Wayne,

Yes, issue with battery isolator was resolved. 2 wires connected to a relay (in the box under the rear lounge) needed to be swapped.

Hope that helps.
Glenn
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:07 AM   #25
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Do you have the inverter on when you are driving? Turn it off if that's the case. If yours is wired like mine is (was) wired, Airstream has the refrigerator on the inverter circuit, which is not the way it should be, since the fridge is a 12vdc model, and it takes the inverted 120ac and converts it back to 12vdc to run, which is just silly. This causes a drain on the inverter while you drive from the house batteries, and there is not enough charge to keep the batteries fully charged. At least that's what I think could be happening. I have since changed how the refrigerator is wired so it's on a non-inverted circuit. Try turning the inverter off completely when driving down the road and see if the batteries stay fully charged. I bet they do.

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Old 03-29-2013, 10:21 AM   #26
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Gmiller,

What year is your interstate? I'll have to see if mine has the same issue. We use ours as basically a daily driver and I leave the investor on all the time so the kids can watch movies and the drinks are always cold. When were not home I still leave the inverter on because I thought I needed it for the fridge, but perhaps not. And it's nice to know that even if that's true I can (fix) it so I don't need to in the future.

If mine is wired the same, hopefully I can pick your brain on how your changed it!
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:15 AM   #27
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Mine is the 2011 model, but from what I understand, I am pretty sure all models are wired that way. The use the 20amp inverter circuit that runs to the TV receptacle, then to the back behind the microwave where the fridge is plugged into a receptacle, then to the front GFI 120ac outlet that is energized with the inverter. They wire it this way for convenience only-the refrigerator has two power connections. Once for AC and another 12vdc. If no AC is present, it runs off 12vdc. If AC is present, it runs off the AC, but then converts it back to 12vdc. So it goes from 12vdc, to 120ac, and back to 12vdc again! If you leave the inverter on all the time, it will drain your house batteries eventually, as it is uses some power from the house batteries, even if it isn't "inverting" anything. If you turn it off, and the battery connected, the fridge runs off the house batteries directly. This is with the Tripplite inverter installed up to 2012 and some early 2013's. Later 2013 models use a different inverter so I'm not certain it would work the same but my guess it would.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:23 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by gmillerok1 View Post
Mine is the 2011 model, but from what I understand, I am pretty sure all models are wired that way. The use the 20amp inverter circuit that runs to the TV receptacle, then to the back behind the microwave where the fridge is plugged into a receptacle, then to the front GFI 120ac outlet that is energized with the inverter.
So, if I could reach around to the back of the fridge, I could just unplug the 120vAC plug, put a plastic cap over it for protection, and turn the Nova Kool into 12vDC-only? Too bad I can't reach where it's plugged in. I can't even see where it's plugged in. How do I extract the fridge from the galley cabinet to reach the plug?
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