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Old 05-21-2016, 09:05 AM   #21
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I would not expect the loose there setting in this short time.
I have the front Koni sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.
Any recommendation on the setting?
Peter
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:20 AM   #22
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They might just need to be readjusted.

Only my front struts are adjustable. The rear are Koni FSD, which I don't think are adjustable. Ill have to check them out.


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Old 05-21-2016, 10:57 AM   #23
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Did you guys replaced the original shocks because they've failed, or you removed good working genuine shocks for improvement?
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:00 AM   #24
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My front Koni Reds are on fully dampened setting. I've read posts in old threads that some folks didn't like the fully dampened setting. However, I'm happy with the handling and ride up front (the back is still a bounce house). As Boxster said, the Koni FSDs are not adjustable.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:02 AM   #25
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Mr. B,
I replaced my original shocks primarily to improve handling in windy conditions. A good wind still pushes the bus around but every gust no longer deactivates the ESP (electronic stability program) which was very frustrating to deal with.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:08 AM   #26
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I got the rear Koni's installed and yes they are adjustable. It is easy in and out each has only 2 bolts.
I removed my rear with 24k miles and it did some improvement.
The front is a little more complicated and need an alignment. Now I have finally the alignment issue right I really don't want to screw with it.
I have now 55k and should put the front Koni's in.
Peter
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:54 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by PSchw View Post
I got the rear Koni's installed and yes they are adjustable. It is easy in and out each has only 2 bolts.
I removed my rear with 24k miles and it did some improvement.
The front is a little more complicated and need an alignment. Now I have finally the alignment issue right I really don't want to screw with it.
I have now 55k and should put the front Koni's in.
Peter

You must have the red Konis on rear that are adjustable. My Koni FSDs are gold color and not adjustable. I probably should have gotten the red adjustable model. The rears are easy to change.


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Old 05-21-2016, 03:34 PM   #28
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Need an advice from your experience Mike,

as I don't want to mess up with my perfect alignment,
and because I am satisfied with the handling of the bus,
and since I just need to make a rear ride softer,

what if I just will:
1) replace rear stock shock to gold Koni,
2) insert the rubber so-called Sumo "springs",
3) and install the rear sway bar.

Would these three things improve the rear ride on the road bumps? If yes, don't I really may not do the wheel alignment after these things installation?

If anyone also know it, please comment!
Thanks everybody,
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:40 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Mr. B View Post
Need an advice from your experience Mike,

as I don't want to mess up with my perfect alignment,
and because I am satisfied with the handling of the bus,
and since I just need to make a rear ride softer,

what if I just will:
1) replace rear stock shock to gold Koni,
2) insert the rubber so-called Sumo "springs",
3) and install the rear sway bar.

Would these three things improve the rear ride on the road bumps? If yes, don't I really may not do the wheel alignment after these things installation?

If anyone also know it, please comment!
Thanks everybody,
Mr. B,
None of those items will improve the ride in the rear. If you are happy with the front alignment and handling, I would not add anything, unless you get a shop like the Sprinter Store in Oregon to install the full air suspension.
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Old 05-21-2016, 05:56 PM   #30
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Mr. B,
No luck there you may improve sway side to side but not the comfort in the back.
Rear shock is easy to install and does not need any alignment.
Improve right quality sitting in the back the only thing is air ride unless somebody can figure out how to put the back bench on air cushion.
Peter
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:08 AM   #31
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Thank you Gentelmen, your advises saved me from spending money for unnecessary task.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:50 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Mr. B View Post
Need an advice from your experience Mike,

as I don't want to mess up with my perfect alignment,
and because I am satisfied with the handling of the bus,
and since I just need to make a rear ride softer,

what if I just will:
1) replace rear stock shock to gold Koni,
2) insert the rubber so-called Sumo "springs",
3) and install the rear sway bar.

Would these three things improve the rear ride on the road bumps? If yes, don't I really may not do the wheel alignment after these things installation?

If anyone also know it, please comment!
Thanks everybody,

I don't think any of those things will smooth out the ride. I changed to Koni shocks to firm up what I thought was a bouncing ride. But now I have doubts that it helped much. I don't have any experience with the Sumo spring, but I would be worried that they might damage the frame at the bump stops. A stronger rear sway bar will increase the roll resistance but won't smooth out the ride. If I had to do it again I'd just leave the suspension stock unless I was willing to spend the big $$ for full rear air suspension.

I have found that adjusting the tire pressures to 55 psi in the rear seems to help make the ride a bit less harsh.


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Old 05-22-2016, 04:04 PM   #33
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Yes what I am also thinking is to lower rear tires pressure. I wish to lower it for 45 PSI because we have four wheels there, but Protagonist urged me to have all tires at 61.
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:28 AM   #34
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Yes what I am also thinking is to lower rear tires pressure. I wish to lower it for 45 PSI because we have four wheels there, but Protagonist urged me to have all tires at 61.
There are formulas/tables for determining exact air pressure required for a given load on a given brand and size of tire, but using them requires that you weigh the loaded van by axle.

If you don't weigh the van and use the formulas or tables, it's best to stick with 61psi all around. A blowout from running under-inflated is not a price you want to pay just to try to improve rear-seat ride quality.
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:44 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
There are formulas/tables for determining exact air pressure required for a given load on a given brand and size of tire, but using them requires that you weigh the loaded van by axle.

If you don't weigh the van and use the formulas or tables, it's best to stick with 61psi all around. A blowout from running under-inflated is not a price you want to pay just to try to improve rear-seat ride quality.
Yes, but the formulas assume there is two wheels in the rear, not four. For example, a Sprinter 2500 has single wheel rear, and my logic says to divide our pressure by two.

Also please see what other Sprinter owners say:
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:12 AM   #36
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Yes, but the formulas assume there is two wheels in the rear, not four. For example, a Sprinter 2500 has single wheel rear, and my logic says to divide our pressure by two.
There are formulas for duals as well.

Your logic is mistaken. The math does not lie. From a previous post of mine on the "Fans of Airstream Interstate" thread:

Quote:
The gross vehicle weight of a long-wheelbase Sprinter 3500 is 11,030 pounds, divided unevenly between front and rear axles.

According to the Sprinter owner's manual, the gross front axle weight of a Sprinter 3500 van is 4410 pounds.
4410 (GFAW) ÷ 2 (tires) ÷ 61 (psi) = 36 square inches of contact surface with the ground, per tire.

The gross rear axle weight is 7720 pounds.
7720 (GRAW) ÷ 4 (tires) ÷ 61 (psi) = 32 square inches of contact surface with the ground, per tire.

You will note that the amount of contact surface is almost the same on each tire, within a few square inches, which is exactly as it should be.

When we say 61psi per tire, we mean 61psi in each and every tire— not divided by 2 for the duals.
So when you calculate tire pressure for weights under the gross weight, you should still end up with nearly the same amount of contact surface, 36 square inches of contact surface per tire for both tires in front, 32 square inches of contact surface per tire for all four tires in the rear.

If you treat pounds per square inch as the unknown value, then actual rear axle weight, divided by 4 tires, divided by 32 square inches of contact surface, tells you how many psi you need per rear tire.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:49 PM   #37
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In a possible occasion I will go to the trucks Weigh Station to weight measures...
Will report to you then )
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:42 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
There are formulas/tables for determining exact air pressure required for a given load on a given brand and size of tire, but using them requires that you weigh the loaded van by axle.

If you don't weigh the van and use the formulas or tables, it's best to stick with 61psi all around. A blowout from running under-inflated is not a price you want to pay just to try to improve rear-seat ride quality.

Protagonist is correct. I weighed my van at each axle and also side to side to get good idea of weight on each corner. Then I used the Michelin tire pressure chart for duals on my rear axle and singles on the front. As I recall it said I could go as low as 50 psi, but I used 55 for some added margin. Also I noticed my front tires are starting to wear more on the outer edges, a sign that their pressure is too low. I'm going to boost the fronts to 60 psi.

45 psi is probably too low.


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Old 05-23-2016, 09:34 PM   #39
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. Also I noticed my front tires are starting to wear more on the outer edges, a sign that their pressure is too low.


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Or the camber is too positive which is usually the case unless the AI has been aligned since it left the factory. After reading how a lot of folks were experiencing outer edge wear and noticing the same thing, I had the front end aligned and rotated the tires/wheels. Front tire wear is now uniform. YMMV

My theory is that the extra weight added to the rear causes the front to raise slightly which would increase positive camber.
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Old 05-24-2016, 01:49 AM   #40
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I like your theory Mark it sound logic )
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