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Old 11-17-2017, 07:51 AM   #1
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Hydro Flame 8012 II removal

I’ve been working on the furnace trying to get it to light, but no luck so far. I ordered an updated logic board and still nothing. After taking it apart a bit, I discovered mud dauber nests in the combustion chamber and also blocking the fresh air intake. I pulled the igniter out and found the probes connected to each other with another nest. The wire connector broke off, so had to order another igniter. Rudimentary testing shows that the igniter will spark and I can smell propane when I do a sniff test outside the exhaust vent.

After all this, I am wondering if I should just remove this furnace and go with something else. These things are inefficient and use about 2amps when running.

Anyone ever try to get one of these out? Seems to be stuck in place.

John
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Old 11-22-2017, 02:33 PM   #2
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Finally got the heater going. After ordering a new logic board with no change, I started taking the furnace apart. That’s when I found the mud dauber’s nests inside the combustion chamber, the fresh air intake and on the igniter. Cleaned all that out but broke the wire connector off the igniter. Ordered a new one, put it all back together and just like magic, I have heat. The new digital thermostat is light years ahead of the original POC.

The biggest challenge here is doing all this work while standing on your head. Tools that are nice to have would be a circuit tester or multimeter, magnetic screwdriver and a 1/4” nut driver.
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Old 11-22-2017, 02:56 PM   #3
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You are enjoying this. I can tell

Thank you for sharing the updates.
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:51 PM   #4
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You are enjoying this. I can tell

Thank you for sharing the updates.
Yes, it’s good to get these things fixed properly. Now we can go somewhere!
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Old 11-23-2017, 07:18 AM   #5
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... The new digital thermostat is light years ahead of the original POC.....
Did that come with the replacement parts you ordered, or did you buy it separately?

We replaced our thermostat with a stick-and-brick grade Honeywell, for lack of better option at the time. It works better than the original, but (a) it is subject to the common subtropical problem of death-by-battery-leakage (to the extent that we are on our second one), and (b) it can only display up to 99 degrees which is occasionally inconvenient, such as when I'm testing heat countermeasures.

Here's a comparison pic of old and new. The new one is pegged at 99 because it was hotter than that when the pic was taken. The old one held beside it is all fouled up and displaying an erroneous reading because the battery leakage affected its circuitry.

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Old 11-23-2017, 08:50 AM   #6
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There is a bigger lesson here. When I bought my first Trailer, the Aftersales person told me I should put on additional Mud-dobber screens on all intake items. I never thought of that and we have a Mud-dobber issue on the wall of my home in Florida. So I said YES. I am so glad you told use your story. This may be the ONLY thing I did right on my first RV years ago. Be well.
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Old 11-23-2017, 10:16 AM   #7
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Did that come with the replacement parts you ordered, or did you buy it separately?

We replaced our thermostat with a stick-and-brick grade Honeywell, for lack of better option at the time. It works better than the original, but (a) it is subject to the common subtropical problem of death-by-battery-leakage (to the extent that we are on our second one), and (b) it can only display up to 99 degrees which is occasionally inconvenient, such as when I'm testing heat countermeasures.

Here's a comparison pic of old and new. The new one is pegged at 99 because it was hotter than that when the pic was taken. The old one held beside it is all fouled up and displaying an erroneous reading because the battery leakage affected its circuitry.

I am following you! Bought that same one. 99 degrees is ok by me, I have no intentions of being anywhere that hot ever again...😐
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Old 11-23-2017, 10:18 AM   #8
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There is a bigger lesson here. When I bought my first Trailer, the Aftersales person told me I should put on additional Mud-dobber screens on all intake items. I never thought of that and we have a Mud-dobber issue on the wall of my home in Florida. So I said YES. I am so glad you told use your story. This may be the ONLY thing I did right on my first RV years ago. Be well.
I had one on my trailer as well. I don’t think you can get one for the Interstate. Way different setup. Exhaust and fresh air from the same piece outside which is bonded to the inside piece at the time of installation.
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Old 11-23-2017, 12:01 PM   #9
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You may be right

They are easy in stalls using a spring. There has to be a third party vender out there. My 2018 was no problem but vents are different.

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I had one on my trailer as well. I don’t think you can get one for the Interstate. Way different setup. Exhaust and fresh air from the same piece outside which is bonded to the inside piece at the time of installation.
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Old 11-23-2017, 12:50 PM   #10
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They are easy in stalls using a spring. There has to be a third party vender out there. My 2018 was no problem but vents are different.
Does it install without removing the outside cover?
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Old 11-23-2017, 01:32 PM   #11
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Does it install without removing the outside cover?
Yes. They come with a probe to push through the mesh and hook the spring(s) on the existing grid. I have them on the furnace and water heater.

Check Amazon. There are all sorts of shapes and there should be one that works for any size/shape vent.
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