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Old 11-10-2014, 07:09 PM   #15
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jerhofer,

in the 2nd to last photo, there are two loosened screws on the front of the casework. Is that how you open the casework to get at the water heater?
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:02 PM   #16
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jerhofer,

in the 2nd to last photo, there are two loosened screws on the front of the casework. Is that how you open the casework to get at the water heater?
I did loosen those screws but it would not have been necessary as the panel could not move very much without removing other components. You can still reach the valve with the panel attached. Barely!
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:05 PM   #17
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Don't you still need to get some RV antifreeze in the grey and black water tanks in order to winterize the valves, macerator pump, and hose?

Great job on the pics and description. Hadn't thought about the relief valve altho not sure what that will do as far as draining the HW tank.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:35 PM   #18
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Don't you still need to get some RV antifreeze in the grey and black water tanks in order to winterize the valves, macerator pump, and hose?

Great job on the pics and description. Hadn't thought about the relief valve altho not sure what that will do as far as draining the HW tank.
Since Protagonist did such a great job with his list, I didn't cover everything that I did which included using rv antifreeze. I followed his list but provided photos of items I thought would be of interest and would supplement his list.

Opening the relief valve noticeably increased the water flow.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:34 PM   #19
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Awesome job! We should put together a small video showing the steps too. We can post it on youtube for easy access for all Airstream Interstate owners...that will be my goal for next year if nobody gets to it first.


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Old 11-11-2014, 11:33 PM   #20
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Jerhofer,

Did you add that aluminum cover on top of the water heater drain plug? I didn't see one on my 2014.5.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:21 AM   #21
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Jerhofer,

Did you add that aluminum cover on top of the water heater drain plug? I didn't see one on my 2014.5.
Nope. That is the way I found it.
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:18 AM   #22
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Great job, guys!

Very little of this is relevant to my 06, however I have muddled thru and am hoping I got everything.

I think a video is an excellent, excellent idea.


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Old 11-14-2014, 09:20 AM   #23
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This has been so helpful to us. Thanks to everyone who has contributed. I love this forum! We live in NC and have owned our 2014.5 for a few months so winterizing is a new learning experience. I am wondering if there are levels of winterizing? We intend to use our rig during the winter months but we want to protect it during the occasional cold snaps. We have installed a 30amp connection to protect the batteries. Should we blow out the lines after each use? Any direction would be helpful from those of you who live in a similar climate.


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Old 11-14-2014, 01:52 PM   #24
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Don't forget that blowing out the lines still leaves water in the tank drain valves and macerator pump. Also you will need to blow out the black tank flush line because it has a check valve in it and could trap water in it.

As long as it doesn't get too cold, the tank heaters should protect the drain valves. But that still leaves the water in the macerator pump to have to be dealt with.

Also don't be surprised that after blowing out the lines, the water pump doesn't pick up its prime and provide pressure. If this happens, you'll need to force low pressure air into the water fill opening of the freshwater tank after filling the tank with water and turning the pump on. The easiest way to do this is to wrap a rag around the end of your air hose and jam it into the fill opening.
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:54 PM   #25
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I have also found that as a last step, I disconnect the water line from the discharge side of the water pump and run the pump for a few seconds an ounce of two of water will squirt out.


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Old 11-14-2014, 08:25 PM   #26
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Don't forget that blowing out the lines still leaves water in the tank drain valves and macerator pump. Also you will need to blow out the black tank flush line because it has a check valve in it and could trap water in it.
Last New Year's weekend, I was camping at Poverty Point State Park, Louisiana, with full hookups. The predicted low temperatures were above freezing, but the meteorologists got is soooo wrong! The second night, a blue norther blew in—the temperature unexpectedly dropped way below freezing and stayed that way for the rest of my trip. Between the tank heaters and the furnace, all of my plumbing stayed warm enough— EXCEPT my macerator pump, which froze. I had the good sense not to try to use it, and waited until I got back to the coast to dump my holding tanks. I consider myself lucky that the freezing didn't do any detectable damage to the pump. It could have been a lot worse. Thank goodness that whenever I run my pump, I run it dry for about half a minute once all the fluids have been pumped out. The amount of liquid left in the pump wasn't enough to expand and break anything.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:14 PM   #27
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How to Winterize my Airstream Interstate?

Decided to install a bypass valve ahead of the pump on freshwater to make it possible to winterize with under 1 gal of antifreeze - I'm still blowing all the lines and draining the tanks, it just gets dang cold in Illinois so figure why not.

Without looking first I bought the standard Camco converter (diverted valve and hose) then went to install and found out pump has quick disconnects and it won't work.

Good news is all I need is the Flowjet quad port connector and a piece of hose.

Flojet 20381-009 Quad Port Fitting $5.89
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1416183178.829858.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	208.4 KB
ID:	226699

Just disconnect supply side and connect the hose, this should be included with van. EZ PZ.




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Old 11-16-2014, 07:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILATV View Post
Decided to install a bypass valve ahead of the pump on freshwater to make it possible to winterize with under 1 gal of antifreeze - I'm still blowing all the lines and draining the tanks, it just gets dang cold in Illinois so figure why not.

Without looking first I bought the standard Camco converter (diverted valve and hose) then went to install and found out pump has quick disconnects and it won't work.

Good news is all I need is the Flowjet quad port connector and a piece of hose.

Flojet 20381-009 Quad Port Fitting $5.89
Attachment 226699

Just disconnect supply side and connect the hose, this should be included with van. EZ PZ.




Mike
Don't forget about the tank valves and the macerator pump.
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