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Old 10-22-2015, 07:17 AM   #15
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That was my next question, how to get to battery..... We do not have ext. thanks prot


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Old 10-22-2015, 08:25 AM   #16
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That was my next question, how to get to battery..... We do not have ext. thanks prot
Remove the back of the sofa. There are four bolts accessible through the rear doors with the seat upright.

Remove the seat of the sofa. Two nuts, accessible through the rear doors with the seat upright, then two machine screws accessible from inside after the seat has been partially reclined. This means with dead house batteries that you need to be plugged into shore power to operate the recline mechanism.

Once the seat is removed, recline the frame the rest of the way. Disconnect shore power. Open the battery box. Disconnect the wires from the top battery, negative side first, and wrap the positive terminal clamp (on the wires, not the battery post) with black electrical tape before you let go— it's still energized by the bottom battery so you can't let it touch metal.

Lift out the top battery. Then lift out the wooden divider, which will reveal the bottom battery. Repeat the process with the bottom battery. Again you want to tape the positive terminal clamp before letting go of it, because it might still be energized by the solar panel.

Lifting out the bottom battery can be more difficult because you have to get it past the lip that holds the divider in place.

Since the batteries are heavy, the safest way to lift them is to stand in the rear door with your feet on the door sill so you can position your feet as close to the battery box as possible and lift with your back. This is why I had you remove the seat back as well as the seat bottom.
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:39 PM   #17
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nancyo: You might try to find a battery lifting strap/tool.

http://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-Batt...battery+handle

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Red-S520-B...battery+handle

They definitely will make it a lot easier. Most of today's vehicles have stuck their batteries in almost inaccesible voids necessitating one of these.
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:51 PM   #18
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I have another issue, went to empty my tanks, everything seemed to work black valve opened and closed gray valve opened and closed, reel retract worked..... Waste pump did not!
I checked fuse and it had blown put another fuse in and it blew again
Any suggestions?


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Old 10-22-2015, 01:55 PM   #19
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On the street side side of the macerator pump, there is a rubber plug. Remove it. There is a place to take a flat bladed screwdriver and try turning the motor underneath the plug. The motor can get "stuck" with dried muck and hair, and if it does, it will pop the fuse. Once you turn it, it should then clear any resistance, and stop blowing the fuse.
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:22 PM   #20
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Antrim , New Hampshire
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Remove the back of the sofa. There are four bolts accessible through the rear doors with the seat upright.

Remove the seat of the sofa. Two nuts, accessible through the rear doors with the seat upright, then two machine screws accessible from inside after the seat has been partially reclined. This means with dead house batteries that you need to be plugged into shore power to operate the recline mechanism.

Once the seat is removed, recline the frame the rest of the way. Disconnect shore power. Open the battery box. Disconnect the wires from the top battery, negative side first, and wrap the positive terminal clamp (on the wires, not the battery post) with black electrical tape before you let go— it's still energized by the bottom battery so you can't let it touch metal.

Lift out the top battery. Then lift out the wooden divider, which will reveal the bottom battery. Repeat the process with the bottom battery. Again you want to tape the positive terminal clamp before letting go of it, because it might still be energized by the solar panel.

Lifting out the bottom battery can be more difficult because you have to get it past the lip that holds the divider in place.

Since the batteries are heavy, the safest way to lift them is to stand in the rear door with your feet on the door sill so you can position your feet as close to the battery box as possible and lift with your back. This is why I had you remove the seat back as well as the seat bottom.

Depends ......................., on the later 2013's no need to lift any seats or such, remove the carpet piece (velcro) under the seat, looking at it on the right. You'll see the black box with a steel cover, 4 Philips screws. Remove those and you see the batteries inside a tray.

Disconnect the negative from chassis battery below the drivers seat first before pulling out the tray carefully. Then remove the pos & neg cabels (2 because you have two 12V batteries in parallel). I usually slip a piece of clear nylon tubing over the positive cables so they don't short out anything against the ground because you might still have some power from the solar panel

Then do your battery test.
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Old 10-23-2015, 04:10 PM   #21
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Similar problem

With the battery disconnect switch turned off in my 2014 Interstate Ext, the batteries will discharge from fully charged in no more than three days. I know that the refrigerator bypasses the disconnect switch, but it is turned off too. Any thoughts of where to start looking?

I've read about the buss bar with four circuits, only one being the disconnect switch. Starting there to determine which circuit is drawing amperage has been my thought. However, I don't know how to get to the buss bar. Any help?
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Old 10-23-2015, 05:56 PM   #22
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I have a 2013 lounge extended. So the following may or may not apply to you. Everything in mine goes through the AI battery cutoff except:
1) Invertor (I have added my own cut-off for it)
2) battery isolation manager (very small current draw, I am told)
3) fresh and grey water tank heat pads (They are power pigs, but I've never needed them)
4) radio (also powered by chassis battery when ignition is on)
5) Solar controller -supposed have something in it to keep it from being a drain at night)
6) lounge motor (no current draw if not using it)
The last four above and the 12V fuse panel get power from a buss bar on the back of the thermal fuses. You can't see this buss bar and thermal fuse assembly until you remove the lounge seat.

The refrigerator in mine (in 12V mode) does not work with the cut-off in the off position. I also have no draw from the propane, CO, or smoke detectors, antenna booster, propane solenoid when the cut-off is off.

If yours is wired the same as mine there would seem to be no way to draw down the batteries in 4 days - even with only 50 W of solar (which I once had). If your problem were happening the way mine is wired I'd think that it has to be a problem with the battery(ies).

My only problem (back when I had 50W solar) was keeping ahead of the refrigerator when the cut-off was on and all other switchable things (antenna booster, propane solenoid) was off.

If you are at all the curious type (I'm an engineer, so it comes with the territory) I'd highly recommending removing the lounge seat and taking a bunch of notes. Inspect all the myriad of fuses (some are really funky looking) and buy or more of each type as a spare. Do the same for the fuse block attached to the + terminal of the chassis battery, which is under the drivers floor panel. I've had the BIM not work (engine alternator would not charge coach batteries) because one of these latter hidden fuses blew. (Do all of this while the wife is away (if she's not also an engineer) or she is sure to freak out.)
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Old 10-23-2015, 06:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by felixkagi View Post
Depends ......................., on the later 2013's no need to lift any seats or such, remove the carpet piece (velcro) under the seat, looking at it on the right. You'll see the black box with a steel cover, 4 Philips screws. Remove those and you see the batteries inside a tray.



Disconnect the negative from chassis battery below the drivers seat first before pulling out the tray carefully. Then remove the pos & neg cabels (2 because you have two 12V batteries in parallel). I usually slip a piece of clear nylon tubing over the positive cables so they don't short out anything against the ground because you might still have some power from the solar panel



Then do your battery test.

That easy to access battery box is only on the Extended Lounge models starting in 2013. Then starting with the 2015 Grand Tour model they moved the batteries under the van behind the driver's side rear wheels. All the 2016 models I saw at recent Hersey RV show had the batteries under the van.


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Old 10-23-2015, 07:29 PM   #24
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The batteries are new, so that should not be the problem. The same problem existed with the old batteries and the dealer told me they were the causing the problem. Obviously they didn't know what they were talking about.

I'll lift the lounge seat and investigate further. Hopefully I will be able to identify the circuit on the buss bar that is drawing current, then go downstream from there. Any more suggestions will certainly be appreciated.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:07 PM   #25
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With the battery disconnect switch turned off in my 2014 Interstate Ext, the batteries will discharge from fully charged in no more than three days. I know that the refrigerator bypasses the disconnect switch, but it is turned off too. Any thoughts of where to start looking?
Try looking on the 120vAC side of things. If the inverter/charger is on and there's no external source of power other than solar, it will default to inverter mode— so if the breakers are left on, your 120vAC circuits are energized, and one or more of them could be the cause. Not sure what— if anything— you might be leaving on, but it's easy to overlook the AC circuits when you're looking for drains on the batteries.
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Old 10-24-2015, 01:18 PM   #26
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Inverter

Thanks Protagonist! I will get the batteries up to 100% and make sure it is not in "inverter" mode. That sure would be an easy fix. I'm learning that many things about the electrical system are not intuitive. Even though I've owned boats, lots of this is new to me. I'll report back the results.
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Old 10-24-2015, 02:06 PM   #27
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These "Interstate House Battery Drainage" threads are really annoying. Someone posts that his batteries are dying. Everyone responds that, oh, maybe he left his lights on. Not helpful.

Can we just tell the guy his van is defective? That it was designed and built with a defect that his dealer cannot find nor fix? That he is going to have to plug in his van for several hours each week, or buy and install his own battery disconnect switch? That it is probably a design defect and not a sample defect, because many owners all have the same problem?

I own one of these defective Interstates. When it's unhappy, most of the time, it drains probably half of an amp from the batteries all the time. The entire bank's capacity would be gone in about 2 weeks, with everything TURNED OFF. Some weeks I go check on it and the batteries are fine. Most weeks I go check on it and it needs 2 hours of charging.

My van is still under warranty. If my dealer cannot find and fix this problem, I'll use my state's RV Lemon Law and Airstream can buy the van back from me. The van is spec'd to draw less than 0.01 amps unplugged. In a month unplugged, the batteries should lose 2% internal and another 2% from phantom (BIM draws 0.008 A, Kenwood draws 0.001 A, and everything else is much less or is disconnected), not 50% in a week.
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Old 10-24-2015, 02:44 PM   #28
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Can we just tell the guy his van is defective? That it was designed and built with a defect that his dealer cannot find nor fix?
No. We can't. When I first bought my Interstate, I would have agreed with you, because I was more than half convinced that mine was defective. But through diligent research and experimentation, I discovered where my van's phantom draws were, and what I was doing wrong. I've had my van for almost four years since then, and haven't had any problem at all with the house batteries since my first month of ownership. And I'm still on my original Discover Energy batteries that Airstream installed before they switched to Lifelines, that were depleted stony dead not once but three times (twice by me, once by the dealer).

Yes, your particular Interstate might have a defect. Or it might not. But an unrepairable design defect should not be the first assumption made by anyone on the AirForums who wants to help a fellow Airstreamer. We have an obligation to assume that the problem is identifiable— and repairable— through the application of our collective experience, unless or until it is proven otherwise.
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