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Old 03-21-2016, 12:45 AM   #1
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Hood Air Vent removal

Hello Gentelmen !

Does anyone have experience with removal of this vent?

It's rumbling and I want to fix it tighter. I removed two screws from the top, however it doesn't want to come out, and I don't want to brake it.

Is any clips there?
If yes, how to pop them up?

Thank you!
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:13 AM   #2
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Is there any way to tape it from the underside to stop the vibrating? That way you don't risk breaking it.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:55 AM   #3
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Maybe a couple small dabs of clear silicone on the underside just to stop the rattle.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:22 PM   #4
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I thought about it and wish to get underside but it is a nice factory cover on the reverse side of the hood and I did not want to remove it. Looks like the vent was shorter to remove. If I would not able to take off the vent, I will remove the underside cover.
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:00 PM   #5
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The underhood insulation blanket appears to be attached w/ the same type of push-in fasteners used on interior panels. If so, then a set of the plastic panel removal tools should allow easy removal so you can gain access to the back side of the vent louvers.



These are from Harbor Freight. Amazon and ebay have them also.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:09 AM   #6
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Thank you, Marc.
But there are two screws on the top of the vent, and it seems for me logically that since those screws were designed outside, I should pop up that vent from outside as well, otherwise why the screws outside were designed there. But question is how to popup the vent without braking it.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:27 PM   #7
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I agree but w/o looking underneath, it will be hard to tell what's holding it in.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:20 PM   #8
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Yes, it's true. I will look from inside, Marc.
If I would ask MB dealer - they will brake it, or will most likely do the same - open underneath to figure out what holds it there, as they know not more than we do. )))))
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:47 PM   #9
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I had occasion to have my Interstate's hood up this morning when I had to use my toad to jump-start it. Left the headlights on when I parked it— again!

Anyway, I noticed that while the vent on the left side is purely decorative for symmetry's sake, the one on the right side leads to the A/C intake filter and is fully accessible from underneath. You should be able to look at the underside of the one on the right and see how it's fastened in, and make a reasonable assumption that the one on the left is probably fastened in the same way, before tearing apart the left side of your underhood.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:56 PM   #10
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They may be different, Protagonist. And yes, I really don't want to mess with the factory installed underneath cover. Didn't have a time yet but will think tomorrow what to do.

Concerning your jump starting - it is good to have in your home this Power Bank, it is a flashlight, and it is your gadget charger like phone, laptop, it has different options, but the main one is it accumulates a DC power from your car cigarette lighter, or from AC adapter, and boosts the power when you need to turn the starter when your car battery is weak. It costs about forty buck on eBay.
I have one just in case:
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Old 03-24-2016, 08:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. B View Post
Concerning your jump starting - it is good to have in your home this Power Bank, it is a flashlight, and it is your gadget charger like phone, laptop, it has different options, but the main one is it accumulates a DC power from your car cigarette lighter, or from AC adapter, and boosts the power when you need to turn the starter when your car battery is weak. It costs about forty buck on eBay.
I have one just in case:
The battery was not weak, it was dead. Stony dead, well below 0% charge. House batteries were fine, 100% charge, but my 2012 Interstate does not have the boost switch on the dashboard that force-connects the house and chassis batteries for jump-starting from the house batteries. That was first installed for the 2012.5 (2012 EXT) or 2013 models.

Have you tried your gizmo on your Interstate yet? Probably because of the RFID chip in the key and the chip reader in the ignition switch, my Interstate will not start when hooked up to a portable battery pack. It has to be jump-started the old-fashioned way, and you have to leave it connected for 15-20 minutes before you even try to turn the key, so that the battery will charge far enough from the jump-car's alternator for the chip reader in the ignition switch to work.

I do carry a portable battery pack in my toad, and it will jump-start the toad just fine. But every time I try to use it to jump-start the Interstate, it fails miserably. The only effective jump-starter I've found so far is a set of cables and my toad.
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
The battery was not weak, it was dead. Stony dead, well below 0% charge. House batteries were fine, 100% charge, but my 2012 Interstate does not have the boost switch on the dashboard that force-connects the house and chassis batteries for jump-starting from the house batteries. That was first installed for the 2012.5 (2012 EXT) or 2013 models.

Have you tried your gizmo on your Interstate yet? Probably because of the RFID chip in the key and the chip reader in the ignition switch, my Interstate will not start when hooked up to a portable battery pack. It has to be jump-started the old-fashioned way, and you have to leave it connected for 15-20 minutes before you even try to turn the key, so that the battery will charge far enough from the jump-car's alternator for the chip reader in the ignition switch to work.

I do carry a portable battery pack in my toad, and it will jump-start the toad just fine. But every time I try to use it to jump-start the Interstate, it fails miserably. The only effective jump-starter I've found so far is a set of cables and my toad.
All portable battery packs are not created equal. The one I have is made by BoltPower and has 600amp peak power and will/has worked on cars with key chips.
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:23 AM   #13
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All portable battery packs are not created equal. The one I have is made by BoltPower and has 600amp peak power and will/has worked on cars with key chips.
I'll take your word for it. I've already invested in two different power packs, and neither one works on my Interstate, even though both of them work just fine on my Honda. I'm not going to spend even more money to buy a third one when jumper cables were a lot cheaper and work just fine. Despite what people think when they see my Interstate, I'm not made of money.
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:45 AM   #14
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Lol...I hear you Man.
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