Grey water drain upgrade

[Camerons]

Has anyone done an upgrade with the 3inch abs plumbing underneath their airstream to eliminate having to fill the pipes prior to the sewer pump ? Thinking about a 3inch Y fitting with a clean out on it

I recall someone has done it however my search abilities are challenged on this forum. Thanks in advance

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by Camerons

Has anyone done an upgrade with the 3inch abs plumbing underneath their airstream to eliminate having to fill the pipes prior to the sewer pump ? Thinking about a 3inch Y fitting with a clean out on it

I recall someone has done it however my search abilities are challenged on this forum. Thanks in advance

Try this link.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Camerons

Has anyone done an upgrade with the 3inch abs plumbing underneath their airstream to eliminate having to fill the pipes prior to the sewer pump ? Thinking about a 3inch Y fitting with a clean out on it

I recall someone has done it however my search abilities are challenged on this forum. Thanks in advance

I do not understand what you mean by "eliminate having to fill the pipes prior to the sewer pump".

However several members here have added the 3" Y or T fitting the the sewer dump lines to add a gravity dump backup. Here is link to my photos from October 2017.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2025641

The other member "gmillerok1" has posted the best information on this topic. Here is his post from June 2015.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post1640693

Both of us are guilty of burying our photos and info in general topic threads that make it harder to find by search.

Hope this helps,

[PSchw]

I just did it. After reading both other posts. Very simple and easy. I cut one side of the connector of and it fits direct on to the macerater.
Had to add also a straight 3” 3” long plastic pipe. Added a shut of valve and a drip so now I am able to leave valves open (gray only) and trip the gray water on the read during travel.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by PSchw

I just did it. After reading both other posts. Very simple and easy. I cut one side of the connector of and it fits direct on to the macerater.
Had to add also a straight 3” 3” long plastic pipe. Added a shut of valve and a drip so now I am able to leave valves open (gray only) and trip the gray water on the read during travel.

PSCHW - Nice work.

[Camerons]

I removed the airstream manufactured fitting that reduces from 3inch to the macerator pump hose. I epoxied an aluminum bar bent to fit the inside curvature of the fitting then drilled and tapped a hole for a brass bolt. Reinstalled the fitting and now I can drain the lines completely by removing the brass bolt. Solves the issue of a very cold climate and reduces the amount of anti freeze required to winterize the drain pipes. Thanks for everyone’s suggestions and ideas.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Camerons

I removed the airstream manufactured fitting that reduces from 3inch to the macerator pump hose. I epoxied an aluminum bar bent to fit the inside curvature of the fitting then drilled and tapped a hole for a brass bolt. Reinstalled the fitting and now I can drain the lines completely by removing the brass bolt. Solves the issue of a very cold climate and reduces the amount of anti freeze required to winterize the drain pipes. Thanks for everyone’s suggestions and ideas.

Recommend you check that fitting often. Epoxied aluminum to a plastic pipe might not hold up to changing temps over time.

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by PSchw

I just did it. After reading both other posts. Very simple and easy. I cut one side of the connector of and it fits direct on to the macerater.
Had to add also a straight 3” 3” long plastic pipe. Added a shut of valve and a drip so now I am able to leave valves open (gray only) and trip the gray water on the read during travel.

PSCHW - Do you have pics from other side? Would like to see from the other vantage points if you have additional pics. Thanks.

[Rig Rat]

I couldn't avoid some road debris and it punctured a small hole in the flexible 3" rubber sewer line that runs between the tank valves and the macerator. When I drained the line prior to its removal, I found these two broken brass bolts in the bottom of the bucket.

Since these bolts holds the unit together, I've decided to go with the Jabsco service kit to fix my pump instead of just replacing the 4 bolts. However, I would appreciate some advice beforehand.

Questions for those of you who have installed the macerator service kit ie., Boxter1971 & gmillerok1.

1. Did you remove the macerator pump from your AI or did you leave it attached to do the rebuild?

2. If you took the macerator off, is the motor unit hard wired or are there wire connectors already in place to disconnect it from the AI?

Thanks!

Mark

[gmillerok1]

I did not rebuild the pump. For the money and trouble I replaced it. Twice.

Either way it must be removed. It is hard wired but it is not difficult to cut and splice the two wires.

Likely the road debris caused these two bolts to snap off the end of the pump.

[Air99]

Very common, happened to mine also, these 2 are shorter ones holding the cutter/pump chambers to the motor front, made of soft brass, the other 2 bolts are longer to reach to the back end of the motor, also made of brass. I suggest replacing whole unit, newer macerator pumps have stainless steel bolts.

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Rig Rat

I couldn't avoid some road debris and it punctured a small hole in the flexible 3" rubber sewer line that runs between the tank valves and the macerator. When I drained the line prior to its removal, I found these two broken brass bolts in the bottom of the bucket.

Since these bolts holds the unit together, I've decided to go with the Jabsco service kit to fix my pump instead of just replacing the 4 bolts. However, I would appreciate some advice beforehand.

Questions for those of you who have installed the macerator service kit ie., Boxter1971 & gmillerok1.

1. Did you remove the macerator pump from your AI or did you leave it attached to do the rebuild?

2. If you took the macerator off, is the motor unit hard wired or are there wire connectors already in place to disconnect it from the AI?

Thanks!

Mark

I rebuilt mine with new SS bolts. It has to be removed for a rebuild. Also get or make new gaskets - it will leak if you don't renew the gaskets that are just treated paper. The original gaskets were destroyed when I disassembled my pump. I did have new gaskets and didn't want to wait to get them so I made my own from heavy paper/light cardboard. Holding fine for several years now.

The motor unit is hard wired so you will have to cut the wires to get it on a bench. I just rebuilt mine in place in my driveway as the wires were long enough to just have the pump sit on a large wood block under the van. Then didn't have to cut wires.

[Camerons]

Hi mike. You’re right the two different materials will expand at very different rates. I’ll put a second retaining bolt threaded thru it and use locktite on it. Good call and thanks for suggestion. Aluminum isn’t something a Macerator pump would chew up well

[Rig Rat]

Thanks for all of your input on my macerator questions!

I've decided to install a new one instead of rebuilding the current macerator.

I do not have an inside storage spot, so I'll hopefully wait for the weather in central Ohio to moderate a bit before crawling underneath to change things out!

Since the new unit is dry, I shouldn't need to put any antifreeze in it.

I will also have to wait until we head west after the Holidays into warmer weather to try it out and check for leaks!

[PSchw]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

PSCHW - Do you have pics from other side? Would like to see from the other vantage points if you have additional pics. Thanks.

No sorry and I am not close to my rig. Not easy to get underneath anyhow.
I am back on the rig in January.

[ben322]

Thanks to "gmillerok1", for the inspiration, I waited until this year to modify the waste line. I did move the new macerator up by 1.5", (hence the additional plate and SS bolts - 4 for the macerator & 4 for the plate), so the assembly would line up with the existing plumbing.

[gmillerok1]

Originally Posted by ben322

Thanks to "gmillerok1", for the inspiration, I waited until this year to modify the waste line. I did move the new macerator up by 1.5", (hence the additional plate and SS bolts - 4 for the macerator & 4 for the plate), so the assembly would line up with the existing plumbing.

Excellent job! Curious why it needed to be realigned, though. Why didn't it line up with the existing piping? I really like the hard PVC splitoff. Much better than what I did!

[Alex AVI]

Originally Posted by ben322

Thanks to "gmillerok1", for the inspiration, I waited until this year to modify the waste line. I did move the new macerator up by 1.5", (hence the additional plate and SS bolts - 4 for the macerator & 4 for the plate), so the assembly would line up with the existing plumbing.

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

Excellent job! Curious why it needed to be realigned, though. Why didn't it line up with the existing piping? I really like the hard PVC splitoff. Much better than what I did!

BEN322 , GMILLEROK1, PSCHW, CAMERONS - I really like what you guys have done. While I do not foresee needing it often, I think it is smart to have it there, should've been setup that way from factory. Question - how does the plumbing system handle that entire length with solid pvc? Was the original AI rubber flexible piece put in to allow for flexing during travel or was it because AS did not want to spend the extra time to do the final precise cuts to join the pvc to macerator? Is flexing going to be an issue with that long run solid pvc? I really want to do this because the system looks a lot cleaner (no pun intended).

[ben322]

Originally Posted by gmillerok1

Excellent job! Curious why it needed to be realigned, though. Why didn't it line up with the existing piping? I really like the hard PVC splitoff. Much better than what I did!

It didn't matter when AS installed it and I think they did it this way for manufacturing expediency with the long flex pipe but I don't have as much give now with just two short flexible connectors, I lined it up so there isn't any stress on the pipes. I did have to trim a small corner of the large bracket on the propane tank so the elbow would fit and I'm probably going to add a hanger to reduce vibration going down the road.

Another annoying thing about the original macerator install was the studs welded onto the bracket so the bolts had to be removed from the top. This is swell when it's sitting high on a lift, but in my driveway not so much. I picked up four M6 rubber mounts so I can easily unscrew it from the bottom.

Funny that Flojet says something like "don't expose to water" or something similar right on the unit so in it's original install position leaves it exposed to road spray anytime the road is wet. The factory bracket has a 1/2" lip which would provide little protection so the new plate I added extends 4" vertically and since it's closer to the fresh water tank, it should be slightly more protected.

[ben322]

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

BEN322 , GMILLEROK1, PSCHW, CAMERONS - I really like what you guys have done. While I do not foresee needing it often, I think it is smart to have it there, should've been setup that way from factory. Question - how does the plumbing system handle that entire length with solid pvc? Was the original AI rubber flexible piece put in to allow for flexing during travel or was it because AS did not want to spend the extra time to do the final precise cuts to join the pvc to macerator? Is flexing going to be an issue with that long run solid pvc? I really want to do this because the system looks a lot cleaner (no pun intended).

I don't think there will be a problem with PVC/ABS as the OE ABS is mounted solidly to the unibody. I used ABS although PVC should be fine and there is no direct glued connection, (they do make a special PVC to ABS glue). I also duplicated the factory AS connector using Schedule 80, (really because they wanted $75 + shipping & two-weeks). The blue hose is a silicone turbo induction hose that adds more flex than others like Kanaflex so it's not actually hard-piped and has give on both sides.