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Old 04-14-2017, 03:16 PM   #1
SWH
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Generator / Inverter Issues

Ugh - got the propane issue fixed and now a new issue on the way up to see our daughter for Easter. We stopped at a rest area for a few minutes and we fired up the generator to pop a couple bags of popcorn. Upon doing so the TV cut off... why?? I know the management system will shed load eg shut down A/C to operate microwave, but the TV? First I would think TV would be an issue - should be plenty of juice to power a microwave and a TV. Second even after cooking was complete, the TV would not turn back on.

So, I shut down the generator and tried to turn the inverter back on... nothing. Just kept reading "searching". It was also showing 12 or 13 volts if I recall, but 0 amps (at least I assume that's what "0 A" means). Tried to shut off motor and battery disconnect and restart. Still nothing, and now next day the inverter still isn't operating, which is not popular with 3 teenagers in the back unable to watch tv or charge any devices during 10 hour drive.

What gives? Does anyone know if it's normal for TV to shut off when operating microwave or AC on generator power? If so, that's ridiculous. And how do I get the inverter to work again?

Very frustrating to buy a brand new 2017 motorhome and have a problem every time we use it...
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:29 PM   #2
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Did you check all breakers and fuses? Also try the reset switch on the top of the inverter (little red button if I remember correctly).
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:25 PM   #3
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Ugh - got the propane issue fixed and now a new issue on the way up to see our daughter for Easter. We stopped at a rest area for a few minutes and we fired up the generator to pop a couple bags of popcorn. Upon doing so the TV cut off... why?? I know the management system will shed load eg shut down A/C to operate microwave, but the TV? First I would think TV would be an issue - should be plenty of juice to power a microwave and a TV. Second even after cooking was complete, the TV would not turn back on.

So, I shut down the generator and tried to turn the inverter back on... nothing. Just kept reading "searching". It was also showing 12 or 13 volts if I recall, but 0 amps (at least I assume that's what "0 A" means). Tried to shut off motor and battery disconnect and restart. Still nothing, and now next day the inverter still isn't operating, which is not popular with 3 teenagers in the back unable to watch tv or charge any devices during 10 hour drive.

What gives? Does anyone know if it's normal for TV to shut off when operating microwave or AC on generator power? If so, that's ridiculous. And how do I get the inverter to work again?

Very frustrating to buy a brand new 2017 motorhome and have a problem every time we use it...
Your Magnum MMS-1012 inverter/charger has both input (15 amps) and output (10 amp) circuit breakers located directly on the unit. If you lift the driver side jack-knife jump seat, you will see the top of the inverter and there will be 2 rocker-type breakers. Check both for proper settings, along with the input breaker which should be located on your 120VAC panel board.

The re-set 'button' for the Magnum is actually a green button located on the face that has the main DC connections and is located directly above the phone jack comm. cable inputs. Press and hold until the green led flickers, count to 10 and then release. This will perform a 'soft' re-set.

If you need a 'hard' re-set, then all of the power, both AC and DC, as well as the comm. cables should be removed for 15 minutes before re-connection and start-up. If a fault is still present, the unit should be referred to a Magnum factory authorized repair facility.

PM me if you need any specific guidance.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:01 PM   #4
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Thanks lewster.

Well I opened the breaker panel and flipped all of the breakers off and then back on. The left most breaker switch will not stay on - it returns to the off position. However the inverter works now. In fact I don't notice anything not working. The fridge, eg, is on (at least the light comes on when I open the door) even though it would appear from the label that the left most breaker switch is tied to the fridge. I assume this switch should stay on however- did I blow something?Click image for larger version

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Old 04-14-2017, 08:05 PM   #5
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The first breaker is a GFCI type breaker. If it won't re-set, it usually means that you have a neutral to ground 'leak' somewhere that will not allow the re-set. The flip side is that you have a bad GFCI breaker. Chances are 50-50 either way.

Probably good to find a VERY competent tech with a good deal of electrical knowledge to trouble shoot that issue.

The GFCI outlet usually controls outside 120VAC outlets and this near water or moisture.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:14 PM   #6
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Remember that there is a learning curve here.

If you have not read your owners manual thoroughly, you should do that.

We had little stick-on flags at sections in ours that we had to refer to regularly the first year or so.

Good luck.


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Old 04-14-2017, 08:30 PM   #7
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The first breaker is a GFCI type breaker. If it won't re-set, it usually means that you have a neutral to ground 'leak' somewhere that will not allow the re-set. The flip side is that you have a bad GFCI breaker. Chances are 50-50 either way.

Probably good to find a VERY competent tech with a good deal of electrical knowledge to trouble shoot that issue.

The GFCI outlet usually controls outside 120VAC outlets and this near water or moisture.
Lew will this breaker trip if the GFCI receptacle has tripped? If so, maybe the OP can try resetting the GFCI at the receptacle (it's the dual outlet behind the driver's seat) and then try resetting that breaker. I had a problem where my TV's wouldn't work and it turned out that for some unexplained reason my GFCI receptacle had flipped. Note to self: check the breaker next time I'm at the rig.....
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:50 PM   #8
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Lew will this breaker trip if the GFCI receptacle has tripped? If so, maybe the OP can try resetting the GFCI at the receptacle (it's the dual outlet behind the driver's seat) and then try resetting that breaker. I had a problem where my TV's wouldn't work and it turned out that for some unexplained reason my GFCI receptacle had flipped. Note to self: check the breaker next time I'm at the rig.....
Ahhhhh.........forgot about that one! if it is on the GFCI breaker circuit and the outlet GFCI is tripped, the breaker might not re-set.

OTOH, the ultimate questions is WHY there is a second GFCI in a circuit that is full protected by a GFCI breaker?????? Redundancy here is perhaps not necessary and more of a PIA than it's worth.
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Old 04-14-2017, 09:04 PM   #9
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Thanks all. I will check in the morning and report back!

But to the first question- is it normal for the power management system to shut off a TV when running microwave or A/C?
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Old 04-14-2017, 09:53 PM   #10
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OTOH, the ultimate questions is WHY there is a second GFCI in a circuit that is full protected by a GFCI breaker?????? Redundancy here is perhaps not necessary and more of a PIA than it's worth.
Totally agree. I didn't know the breaker ALSO had a reset button until I took a look at the OP's pic that he posted up, so I'll check mine tomorrow to see if it's off. I haven't run the fridge since the TV's went out......

@SWH - normally no, the TV's shouldn't cut out when the microwave is turned on. What I think happened is for some reason your GFCI tripped, which WILL take out the TV's. Maybe the microwave sent a spike through your system and popped the GFCI??? All manner of weird sh*t happens when a transient goes through an electrical system. Was anything else on at the time? You said you stopped at a rest stop and fired up the genny. Maybe the Magnum started dumping charge into the house batts? That can suck down 15A and together with the microwave may have pulled your system down faster than the EMS could respond and weirdness ensued.....
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:26 AM   #11
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Two GFCI breakers in series won't work which I found out when I bought a house and couldn't get one in the guest bath to reset. Discovered that some DIY electrician had replaced a standard outlet w/ a GFCI one and the circuit was downstream from the GFCI outlet in the upstairs hall bath.

Didn't check the NEC but suspect it's not even legal.
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:26 AM   #12
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Two GFCI breakers in series won't work which I found out when I bought a house and couldn't get one in the guest bath to reset. Discovered that some DIY electrician had replaced a standard outlet w/ a GFCI one and the circuit was downstream from the GFCI outlet in the upstairs hall bath.

Didn't check the NEC but suspect it's not even legal.
Then the OP still has something wrong with whatever is on the breaker GFCI, but with the GFCI behind the driver's seat reset, his TV's should work.

@SWH - It's easy to tell if the fridge is working by reaching inside and turning the temp down a bit and see if the compressor kicks on.

Taking a quick look at the 2017 Owner's Manual (if you don't have it with you but have internet access, you can download it here: https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ers-Manual.pdf, I keep a copy on my phone and my tablet so I always have it available), it appears the LP Detector and rear USB charge ports are on the same circuit as the fridge, so with that breaker off those items are also not working.
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Old 04-15-2017, 05:44 PM   #13
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Then the OP still has something wrong with whatever is on the breaker GFCI, but with the GFCI behind the driver's seat reset, his TV's should work.

@SWH - It's easy to tell if the fridge is working by reaching inside and turning the temp down a bit and see if the compressor kicks on.

Taking a quick look at the 2017 Owner's Manual (if you don't have it with you but have internet access, you can download it here: https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ers-Manual.pdf, I keep a copy on my phone and my tablet so I always have it available), it appears the LP Detector and rear USB charge ports are on the same circuit as the fridge, so with that breaker off those items are also not working.
Just took a quick look at the manual that you linked to.

Seems that Airstream is STILL publishing mis-information. Two areas that got my attention was the listing for a SINGLE Lifeline GPL-24T house battery (you should have TWO) and their battery state of charge chart. It shows specific gravity readings (don't know how Airstream would manage to get those with a fully sealed AGM battery with no asset and NO FREE BATTERY ACID) and a 50% depth of discharge of 12.41VDC when it is 12.2VDC (pre Lifeline's tech manual)

I wonder what else is not correct in that Interstate manual??
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:01 PM   #14
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Just took a quick look at the manual that you linked to.

Seems that Airstream is STILL publishing mis-information. Two areas that got my attention was the listing for a SINGLE Lifeline GPL-24T house battery (you should have TWO)

I wonder what else is not correct in that Interstate manual??
In their defense the schematic on 9-17 does show 2 coach batteries, so they have it right in at least one place......

Looking at this further, and to Lew's point, it appears to me that the labeling on the breaker panel DOES NOT match the schematic on page 9-25. In the manual, the refrig seems to be on Breaker 2, not Breaker 6 (i.e. the GFCI protected breaker). So if the OP has a functioning refrig but Breaker 6 is off, this would confirm that. According to the schematic, Breaker 6 controls the galley overhead receptacle (i.e. coffee maker), the curb side exterior receptacle, and something called the C.S. Rear Receptacle. Ignoring that last one for a sec, could you have water in the exterior receptacle? That would certainly trip that breaker. Does anyone know what the C.S. Rear Receptacle is???

EDIT: Nevermind, figured it out. C.S. Rear Recept is for the rear TV!!! So this is why the OP's rear TV isn't working.
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