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Old 09-10-2016, 12:39 AM   #1
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Garage and door minimum dimensions

I don't have an Interstate yet, but plan to purchase within the next year. I currently live in CA and plan to retire soon. Thus, we are planning on selling our townhouse which cannot accommodate a RV on site and purchase a small home in Oregon with space for an RV, hopefully garage space. Having stored cars both outside and in garages, I feel very certain storing the new baby in a garage would extend its serviceable life and give me access to it during bad weather for projects inside of it. I have estimated the minimum garage space needed would be at least a 10 x 10 foot door; 12 x 12 would be better, a 10+ foot ceiling, 7-8 ft width (more if I can make that happen in case I want to open the awning inside to fully dry it out) and at least 26+ feet of length. Has anyone garaged their Interstate when it is not in use and are their other considerations I shoud include in my house hunting specs? I will also add a 30 Amp 110 circuit and and dump drain would be great, but could take care of dumping and cleaning the tanks at the end of trips if I can't locate a drain near the RV. We also plan to keep the house and yard as small as possible as a home-base and might use the RV as a guest bedroom.

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Old 09-10-2016, 05:08 AM   #2
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There was no Interstate in my future when I had my garage built. I wanted it for my old Pontiacs and with a lift to work on them. I had standard 10' x 7' doors on it.
After getting the Interstate I had an 11' high door put in as a 10' wasn't going to work for a
9' 8" high RV
Door minimum. 10 wide x 11 high
Ceiling minimum. 12' 6" (framing codes or building style could make it higher)
Width minimum. 12'. To open doors is minimum 2' 6"
Length minimum. 30'. That would be 2' 6" front & 3' in rear
The dimensions are "inside" and 12 feet wide would be claustrophobic !!
The awning is not designed for rain, only shade and will hold a lot of water when extended.
Heating & cooling is a consideration if you are thinking of staying in it while garaged. Heat to keep the tanks from freezing in the winter without running the tank heaters all the time. You couldn't run the LP heat so an electric heater would be needed.If you were thinking of running the A/C in the summer you would have to deal with the condensation pouring out on the floor from the front passenger side wheel well area.
I hope your retirement dreams work out for you
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:47 AM   #3
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At the current time we don't own a garage, but we rent one. I really like an interior ceiling tall enough for getting up and working on the roof of our Interstate - to me, that is more important than the width. If we were to build a garage (which we are considering later in life toward retirement), I think it would have to be at least 14 feet high.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:54 AM   #4
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Not related to dimensions, but rather lighting. Garages typically have lights directly centered on the ceilingó which is fine for the typical passenger caró but that's wrong for a garage housing a tall van. Put the lights along the perimeter of the ceiling (right next to the side walls), not in the center.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:04 PM   #5
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Your dream garage sounds dreamy.
If it were me, I'd delete only one thing, the sewer. Personally, I do not find it hard to locate a dump station on the way home. Having a sewer drain in in my dream garage "soils" the image, somewhat, for me. Just a thought.
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Old 09-10-2016, 01:48 PM   #6
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Many thanks to all for your thoughtful comments. Hopefully I can turn that dream into reality. This forum has really helped me also have a more realistic expectations of the Airstream Interstate itself, as it is as imperfect as humans but I believe still the best unit made today.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredjacob View Post
I have estimated the minimum garage space needed would be at least a 10 x 10 foot door; 12 x 12 would be better, a 10+ foot ceiling,
Keep in mind you'll need additional room for the door opening header. I determined 10' would be the minimum height opening so went with 12' ceiling. I had to use laminated beams for the header because of the opening width so the finished opening wound up being 10'3". This gives me some additional comfort.

Also, in my case, the door opener motor hands down further than the lights, but there is still plenty of clearance.
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:05 PM   #8
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I have 10 ◊ 10 doors but the opening is 2 or 3 in smaller. My sprinter just fit. Also my ceiling height is 11 feet and presented problems on clearance for the door tracks and we just fit. Must have 12 feet inside to do it right. Also now I have a lift and can't put it at max height with a car on it.
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:42 PM   #9
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My garage is 40' deep with 11' tall door and 12' ceiling.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:54 AM   #10
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Many house sewer lines have a clean out which can be used for dumping. Ours is near enough to the driveway for this purpose. Very convenient.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:17 AM   #11
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Many house sewer lines have a clean out which can be used for dumping. Ours is near enough to the driveway for this purpose. Very convenient.
I envy you. Each pair of houses in our subdivision shares a common clean-out which is located on the property line. As luck would have it, it's our neighbor's driveway that abuts our common portal, not ours - our driveway is on the opposite side of our lot. And given that we have a 70 foot wide lot, we can't stretch anything over to it - it's too far. Every once in a while if we get into a time crunch, we get permission to pull into the neighbor's driveway for dumping purposes, but I don't want to wear out our welcome, so 90% of the time we do it somewhere else.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:10 PM   #12
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Interstate storage

Bigger is better. I store my Interstate in a 32 foot bay with a 12x12 door. Lots of room to move around, open the doors, and comfortably access any exterior component including waxing. I also have a StowAway 2 trailer hitch cargo carrier which remains attached during stoage and has room to swing out for rear door access. I have 20 amp electric service which is all you need unless you plan to run the air conditioner in storage.

I strongly recommend inside storage. Your rv looks better, has fewer malfunctions, has fewer incidents of mice, bugs, and mud daubers, lasts longer, and shows better when a prospective buyer sees it garaged when not in use.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:18 PM   #13
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You are on the right track with interior storage. Go as big as you can, avoid minimums. We have a new 40x48x16 going in after the first of the year.

Keep in mind that if you plan to work on it at all you will need to have access along both sides and the front and rear, I try to allow a minimum of 4' on all sides, more if at all possible.

Protagonist makes a good point about the lights too.

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Old 09-12-2016, 07:51 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curmugeon View Post
...

I strongly recommend inside storage. Your rv looks better, has fewer malfunctions, has fewer incidents of mice, bugs, and mud daubers, lasts longer, and shows better when a prospective buyer sees it garaged when not in use.
I would add one: will develop fewer rust problems, or develop them much more slowly.

This issue has been broached on other threads in the past, and this forum population has not always reacted favorably toward the idea of inside storage, the argument being, "It's a motor vehicle specifically designed to remain outdoors indefinitely."

My counter-argument has always been, "The SPRINTER was designed to remain outdoor indefinitely. The Interstate, not so much."

The reason is that Airstream didn't use stainless steel hardware on any part of the T1N Interstate build that my husband and I have found to date, and we have dismantled and improved quite a bit of ours. All of the hardware has been galvanized metal and everything we have worked on has shown significant rust, sometimes to the point of hardware failure (pic below shows a screw used to install our Fantastic fan... we have always garaged, but our vehicle's previous owner didn't seem to, at least not for his entire duration of ownership).

I've seen pics of NCV3s, pics posted by other owners, and incipient hardware rust is also visible, suggesting that this non-stainless hardware assembly practice continues at least in part.
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